February 26, 2024 by bleekong

Frederic – Cremorne – Saturday 10 February 2024 – Dinner

It’s down the street. Back in the day I was here at least once a week for coffee and a croissant. The pandemic had its impact, but the strength of the team behind Frederic ensured the quality would be retained.

There is no good reason why I haven’t dedicated the time to review Frederic. Having eaten here multiple times, with Catherine, several others, and even by myself, I have always been impressed. Tonight we are here for a Saturday evening, and can have a lengthy experience.

We start out the front with a champagne. On weeknights there is a great special from 4-6pm. The street overlooks a car park along the railway tracks near Richmond station, and the back of the Precinct pub, but it is still cute, and tonight is a beautiful evening. When there’s big events there can be a great atmosphere on the pavement here.

Once seated we start strategising on the menu. As usual Catherine needs to pay extra attention to the gluten-free options. More and more it is becoming a positive reason for choosing one restaurant over another, but with good restaurants normally catering well to coeliacs and gluten-intolerant people, it is rarely a reason to not try a venue.

We skip the snacks, but choose an entree, main, and dessert. After some confusion about the vitello tonnato, which I really enjoyed, Catherine chose the burrata, which popped with freshness and brightness. Although not a textural clash, the delicious Chapoutier Marsanne 2019 is probably a better choice with the burrata, heirloom tomatoes, and peach. I was glad I tried it though. Catherine’s Petit Chablis by La Manufacture in Burgundy, was just as Petit Chablis should be, and its freshness matched her burrata nicely.

French bistro screams mains to me, and I’m happy enough to start here much of the time. The porterhouse cut by Vic Southern Ranges is grass fed, and beautifully medium rare, with shoestring fries, mustard, and chimichurri. While I’d probably prefer some béarnaise, there’s nothing else I would change about this dish, and it isn’t far above a decent quality pub steak price wise. The Maison Cassange et Vitailles Grenache Shiraz Cinsaut from Languedoc is a terrific red that matches the steak well.

Catherine’s baked rockling fillet is delightfully presented, scattered mussels generously adorn the splash of green around the yellow vadouvan curry sauce. I get the pleasure of a couple of tries and it is right up to my steak, and not without merit to suggest sharing the two on another occasion.

The menu caters to Catherine’s intolerance perfectly, and I must admit, I had not stopped to think that a soufflé’s base ingredients do not include any gluten. Today’s passionfruit version is perfectly executed, with the classic fluffiness that makes you feel like you could eat two!

Frederic is a comfortable place to relax over several courses. The quality of the food, and its plating, is the primary reason I keep coming back. It is hard to say it is suburban, but it is part of our suburb, and while the normal menus prices are not every day reasonable, there are plenty of specials during the week to capture regulars. Over the years it has certainly captured us plenty of times.

Frederic
https://frederic.com.au
9-11 Cremorne Street, Cremorne
M-F lunch + dinner; Saturday dinner
hello@frederic.com.au
(03) 9089 7224

February 4, 2024 by bleekong

Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula – Wednesday 27 December 2023 – Dinner

There is tonic in the act of a dining experience. For Catherine and I, it is well understood, but not formally written, that we need some time to eat, drink, and discuss – to live. Sometimes we don’t have that opportunity, and it is tough.

The find of Donna Maria is attributed to me from many years ago, but it is Catherine who has been multiple times to the stable of Donna Maria, Bistro Elba, and Patsy’s. While I did the discovering, every one of my experiences has had our little boy feature at various ages, and maybe feature a little too much. Sydney is the light of our lives, but some meals need Catherine supervising me, instead of our other little man!

So it has been a lengthy period of time before Catherine and I could finally experience one of these restaurants on our own, as they continue to build in reputation. This evening, we arrive at 6pm and leave just before 9pm, and it is a terrific few hours. Christmas has the frivolity, the wonder of the little ones, and the excitement of a big day. This evening, two adults who have been doing their best at bringing up a four year old, need some serious time to themselves, post a hectic few festive days!

The set three (or four) course menu for a few busy weeks of summer makes complete sense, and is an oasis for us. With plenty of gluten-free options, Catherine has the rare opportunity to actually choose her adventure, and I am pleased that her adventure doesn’t feature my preferences, allowing double the tasting. As we sip our Bellini, and Coravin poured Fiano, our beautifully presented entrees arrive.

Catherine’s snapper crudo with Warragul greens (succulents) and salmon roe, is akin to the flavour of oysters, so you need to be into your seafood to enjoy. I’m a fan, but my risotto, with local broad beans is a winner. A delicate extra virgin olive oil surrounds the perfectly al dente rice, toasted pine nuts, and large slivers of garlic.

Next, as I go from a delicious Stonier Chardonnay, to an even more enticing Montepulciano, we have our mains. Mine is the Osso Bucco pappardelle, which might seem an odd choice in late December, but perfectly goes with the recent crazy cool, and often wet weather, pairing delightfully with the red. Catherine’s skull prawns with the gluten-free pasta, njuda, and ricotta, has depth of flavour, and is well executed.

We asked for a wait on dessert, and we got one, because the semi-freddo was not yet available. However, the switcheroo for Catherine involved the pistachio and olive oil cake, which whilst presented looking like a burger patty with ice cream, was a sweet and enticing dessert. Equal to the task, my bombolini was exquisite with sweetness personified, and a good slather of ice cream too. We were very pleased.

Service had a lot of familiarity to it, because either here, or at sister venues, we had met many of the same waitstaff. In classic Italian style they are doing a nice enough job, with some charisma, and zero stuffiness. Just the way you like it when in Flinders, on the beautiful Mornington Peninsula. Salute!

Donna Maria
https://www.donnamaria.com.au
52 Cook Street, Flinders
Dinner 7 days; lunch Friday to Sunday
Phone (03) 5989 0160
Email eatdonnamaria@gmail.com

December 22, 2023 by bleekong

Gray and Gray, Bread and Wine – Northcote – Thursday 16 December 2023 – Dinner

As a professional, I find the outside of Gray and Gray entirely cute, and somehow inviting. An oasis for professionals in Northcote, this is not. A great venue to catch up and enjoy some diverse wines, and slightly familiar but not familiar dishes, this is. The signage is an ode to the previous occupant which appears to be a barrister perhaps.

I’m on a man-date with my mate Trav, and we have had a warm up at The Peacock, which is worthy of more than a sticky beak. Our little high table is cute too. Is there a theme?

Unusually, Ben Haines Chardonnay sits atop of the list of whites by the bottle, and I am sold knowing how good this vigneron is. The wine itself is balanced perfectly with subtle okay treatment, and equally subtle but knowing fruit. Trav has already spotted a Hungarian red that is sure to come next.

We began the food proceedings with a pork skewer each, and some sauerkraut, which combined deliciously. Having looked at the brief menu and considered our options, we thought taking advantage of a number of the meat options suited us, but there were not many.

My choice dish to share came next in the form of blinis with a gorgeous whipped potato, and smoked eel concoction, dressed with salmon roe, chives, and kvas (a low alcohol traditional beverage made similar to beer from north-eastern Europe). Trav didn’t love it, but I was quite taken, grabbing more blinis than my fair share, and smothering them in the dip. It reminded me of the way I sometimes eat pate where the vessel operates to separate my hand from an intense amount of the main show.

As we began on our light Hungarian red, we were served with the khachapuri. Khachapuri is in very simple terms a Georgian pizza. I liken it more to an open calzone. With a kharcho (soup) braised pork and lamb combination, topped with pickled onions and herbs, I was enjoying both the familiarity, along with the difference. The light red only added interest with a slightly earthy nose, and some nice fruit to follow. The slight disappointment was the vegetables, which really didn’t have a lot of flavour when pitted against the khachapuri.

Service throughout had been attentive, even as Trav and I caught up and took forever to order, grazing over a couple of courses. The wine bar style shone through, and we were very comfortable. At the stage we should have stopped eating, I couldn’t help but notice an intense looking honey cake, which was being cut in outrageously large portions. Naturally, we ordered it to share, but were convincingly defeated. I have plans to go back and have the honey cake for dinner at some stage, eager to take revenge on this extremely decadent dessert!

Gray & Gray
https://breadandwine.com.au
188 High Street, Northcote, VIC
hello@breadandwine.com.au
+61402962444

December 9, 2023 by bleekong

Etta – Brunswick East – Dinner

There’s a reason there are countless lists and guides all over the internet and traditional media. Over time my infatuation has subsided to a degree, but I still find a strong desire to venture to list toppers.

As an example of this, while I didn’t book the minute it won best restaurant in Victoria for Gourmet Traveller, I still put Etta on my list of “places to try” in my phone’s notes. It’s a little awkward getting to Brunswick, and often groups or work circles won’t do the distance. This time we had circumstance go in our favour.

For one, we were going to be nearby anyway, and Catherine was driving. As I told a few people either we were going (in the lead up), or had been, I realised we are not alone in our thoughts about Brunswick. However, I’m an advocate for the area, and every time we are in this part of the north I would like to be back sooner.

That goes for Etta too. It was stunning. On the way home Catherine asked me to stop going on about how much I enjoyed it! Some of the dishes were outstanding. For the majority of the evening, service was great, and throughout the atmosphere was energetic and vibrant.

One of the early dishes had me spellbound with incredibly prepared abalone that is like no abalone I’ve ever tried. This Greenlip abalone and lardo skewer must give the chefs the same feeling as when a robber cracks a safe.

Next is the tried and tested entrée favourite of anything raw and fishy with acid. Don’t get me wrong, there is a reason why most groups I dine with have these types of dishes in their requests. It delivers on freshness, has a healthiness aura, and awakens the palate. Here, the tuna crudo is spectacular – it is packed with serious depth of flavour. It’s like your favourite gelato in Italy. Even when you are surrounded by excellent gelato everywhere you can still find that one that stands out for you.

The excellence kept coming from the kitchen. Red curry rice salad was a nice crisp addition to our mains, and worthy of inclusion in isolation too. Tempura enoki with charred wombok and shiitake mushrooms is a different and delicious shared main. Rainbow trout comes out as a nicely cooked fillet of fish that can be shared in a group, but is equally as nice as a sole main. Finally, the grilled half chicken was perfectly cooked and added a meat element to a largely seafood focussed meal. I even rated the Ramarro farm leaves to break it up.

The list of wines by the glass keep your interest, and meet the versatility of flavours on the menu. Favourite varietals like Vermentino feature, along with more obscure Sagrantino, and a Savagnin, all better known in Italy and France, but with a growing following in Australia. All three I tried were well found by the curator of the list, and by Australian producers.

To finish, dessert was a pandan and amaretto frangipane tart with palm sugar ice cream. With Tarts Anon down the road it is hard to say it is a standout tart for me, but it was a nice way to end a beautiful meal.

There’s no guarantee that you’ll have an outstanding experience just because one of the many best restaurant lists has awarded your chosen venue, but I do find it to be a worthy gauge. In this case, Gourmet Traveller was spot on because Etta is clearly a restaurant that has it sorted, and I hope to be back very soon.

Etta
https://ettadining.com.au
60 Lygon Street, Brunswick East
+61 (3) 9448 8233
hello@ettadining.com.au

September 2, 2023 by bleekong

Bentley Restaurant + Bar – Sydney City – Tuesday 6 June 2023 – Dinner

It doesn’t matter how much I love an experience at an expensive restaurant, the chances of me going back are slim because of my propensity to try something new. As I approach Bentley Restaurant + Bar, the question is have I ever really been here?

In a different building, in a different suburb, with a distinctly different feel, the past decade (and a bit) since I have been here must have some stories behind it. Some aspects are similar with a seven course menu offered, and the same team behind the food and wine leadership. It goes to show how important the brains behind a restaurant are, and the ability to change and adapt to a restaurant scene that is incredibly demanding.

I didn’t see Sydney during the pandemic; it was hard enough to leave my postcode in Melbourne! As Vivid Sydney goes on in the background, there is no obvious impact of the pandemic in the numbers moving around the CBD, or in this dark, restrained, dining room.

Dining alone, and not being a huge eater, I decide on the three course menu (plus snacks, and petit four for good measure) at $150. For me, the amount of food is more than enough, and the variety is superb. But let’s start with the wine given the long time celebrity of Nick Hildebrandt’s wine lists.

Exceeding my lofty expectations, I drank extremely well tonight, and took home some extra knowledge too. In particular my extra learnings about the Savoie region of south eastern France, with its tiny plots, and particular love of wines made from the Altesse / Roussette white grape. The 2020 Maison Bonnard ‘De Montagnieu’ Roussette is stunning, and from my searches since is clearly a wine that is difficult (not impossible) to put on a list (or find for home!)

Not to be completely outdone, the 2015 Keith Tullock ‘Museum Release’ Semillon, grabs me on the list of white wines by the glass. Aged Hunter Semillon is a thing for a reason, and I think should be an option at more bars and restaurants. Later with my pork neck, the 2022 Murdoch Hill ‘Vis-A-Vis’ Cabernet Franc from the Adelaide Hills is a wonderful demonstration of a varietal that too often is smothered by Cab Sauv. As another option, a Dolcetto d’Alba was also provided to taste, which was a nice touch.

Speaking of the pork neck, it comes from Bangalow, served very generously with an unusual Chinese lettuce called “celtuce” with a macadamia puree. The pork neck is strong and rich, cooked delicately. I find myself going for some of the celtuce with each bite to temper the indulgent neck, and the macadamia allows some complimentary softness.

Earlier I’d started with snacks that were mainly superb. In particular the tender kangaroo striploin could be served at the end of a banquet and you’d still want more, and more. The tiger prawn, finger lime, and grilled hispi (cabbage), combination is also delightful. On the flipside, I didn’t appreciate the pearl meat, which may be an acquired taste. It was definitely enhanced by the charred grape underneath, but it was the lowlight of my entire meal.

In between the snacks and pork neck, coral trout is barely touched, prettily sitting in a disk with bright orange roe, and a jamon broth surrounding. Helped along by the Savoie, I enjoyed the combination of flavours, but found myself wanting for some contrasting texture towards the final bites.

Wait service, especially wine service, had been great through the evening. The dining room is full, but nicely spaced, and there are diverse groups, including some young adults with their parents (lucky things!) There is nothing awkward about dining alone, and gladly the staff do not try to compensate by spending more time at my table than others.

For dessert I am served the liquorice custard. Inside is white chocolate and mandarin. Here the softness makes complete sense; the sweetness is balanced; and the flavours all work with each other. Even better is the cold petit four following. When has ice cream covered in chocolate ever been passe?

I’m back at Bentley after a long time and just like the last time I want to come back again. It’s when not if, but with so many offerings in the stable of Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrand the question is whether I will make it before I try Monopole, Yellow, or Cirrus, on a future trip to Sydney?

Bentley Restaurant + Bar
https://www.bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au/bentley-restaurant-bar
27 O’Connell Street, Sydney
(02) 8214 0505
Dinner Tues – Sat; Lunch Thurs & Fri
info@thebentley.com.au

August 26, 2023 by bleekong

Reine & La Rue – Melbourne, City – Friday 11 August 2023 – Dinner

Much has been written already, early in the life of this Queen (Reine) & Street (La Rue) restaurant, that could perhaps become a temple of gastronomy for the Melbourne dining scene. The confidence I had in booking a Friday night weeks out from opening, was almost purely on the reputation of sister Nomad.

Having started to write about our experience at Reine (the restaurant part of this venture) what I’m left with now is a sense of longing for more. More oysters; more Savoie; more Coral Trout; more eye fillet; and more of everything.

We had three courses of food that was supposed to be four. The oysters and hors d’oeuvres are very enticing, and also very expensive. Catherine thought her roasted scallop with black truffle was quite simply astounding. I tried two oysters from Pambula, and I haven’t had oysters that fresh and beautiful since we were in New York at Brooklyn’s Gage & Tollner. Somehow I can say that the elevated price tag ($8 an oyster is about as high as it gets) is actually worth it. I really couldn’t work out which snack I felt like, and even though the confit rabbit sounds fantastic, going with the anchovy pissaladière was excellent. This is a take on a Niçoise pizza.

During the second course was the moment where we realised that service really does need some time to settle. In such a large restaurant, it often is a roll of the dice as to how good your service is going to be, and sometimes one experience is not representative. In our case we had someone who is reasonably competent, but clearly under the pump. She was friendly too, but just not up to the standard showing through in the food and the venue. Besides being very clear about wanting to space out the dishes, we also saw some growing pains in getting glasses of wine, but one of the sommerliers was extremely attentive and helpful.

We had asked for the coral trout as a separate course to share between the entrees and main, but realised all too late that it would end up coming with our eye fillet steak, pomme frites, and beautifully dressed leafy house salad. It didn’t make a massive difference, but we did feel like it on its own. In any case, it was sensationally cooked, taken off the heat at the perfect time, with a beautiful, deeply rich, lobster beurre blanc, and juicy mussels to complete.

The eye fillet steak was superbly treated as well. Whilst it is not necessarily a steak lovers cut, it was beautifully tender, cooked to order as medium rare, with the right amount of seasoning, a beautiful béarnaise, and tremendous Dijon mustard to accompany. For Catherine and I, it is the right amount, but for others you would need to invest in a heftier option.

By this stage we knew the kitchen was operating at a high level already, very early into the life of this restaurant. There is something about doing classic food extremely well, and this is the place to try that very food. With multiple experiences at Nomad, we are big fans of Jacqui Challinor, who cemented our respect with her fund raising efforts at a Starlight Ball, where she and her team managed to pull off the olive oil ice cream sandwich in spectacular fashion to hundreds of diners for the dessert course.

Wine service here is exquisite with a tremendous list by the glass. It is my kind of list. It’s not purely experimental and on the edge as such, but it does have wines that you cannot easily get, especially the ones we tried. The ‘Marestel’ Altesse from Savoie producer Dupasquier is joyful. This 2017 white wine has such gorgeous texture and weight on the palate, with elegance that has you reaching for another mouthful as you finish your current one.

The Malbec, and the Cabernet Franc, straight varietals, were so good! The former, made in Cahor by Chateau du Cedre, is according to our waitperson the best area in the old world for Malbec. The latter by Philippe Alliet in Chinon is also an example of a part of the Loire that specialises in this varietal. Starting off with a glass of champagne is always a treat, and the Ruinart is one of three to enjoy. We had drunk French all evening and there is nothing wrong with that!

When we got to desert, we had some difficult choices to make. Catherine ended up going against the signature soft serve, and tried the ruby grapefruit which she was very happy with. I had a tough decision to make as well foregoing the chocolate espresso tart. Instead, I had the caramelised apple. It was served in a manner I didn’t expect, a little bit of a deconstructed tarte tatin, but still with the perfectly crisp pastry on the bottom, and surrounded by indulgent caramel. The buttermilk ice cream was needed to contrast the sweetness, but this is a nice dessert, and a meal of its own.

The venue is magnificent. This is a dining room fit for any truly great dining city. Melbourne has some superb restaurants across the spectrum, and this is a compliment to the offering. Reine feels like it has belonged in Melbourne for a very long time and I really hope it is here to stay. There will need to be a tremendous amount of dedication, and the building blocks laid by the owners and senior staff make it realistic to expect it will continue.

Reine & La Rue
https://reineandlarue.melbourne/
380 Collins Street Melbourne
Tues – Sat lunch and dinner
+61 2 9280 3395
reservations@rlr.melbourne

August 21, 2023 by bleekong

O.MY – Beaconsfield, Melbourne – Saturday 29 July 2023 – Dinner

Passion is an overwhelming attribute of exceptional people. In the everyday, most people find their passion in their hobbies. Tonight at O.MY it shines through our conversation with wine waiter, and part owner, Chayse Bertoncello, just as it has the past times we have dined here.

Proudly overlooking this spendid dining room, his brother Blayne creates a menu that has always made sense to my tastes, but has been revelatory in its depth of detail, and connection to the O.MY ethos. That ethos is all about sustainabilty and honouring the surrounding area, without any compromise on flavour; only enhancement.

I should emphasise a complete lack of snobbery at this award winning restaurant; the team creates an interaction that is down to earth. When you have passion for what you do, it shows through the experience; on the plate, and in the glass.

Tonight, we are at the new address for the first time, the restaurant having moved close by after a fire. I love the setting of the small dining room, getting a feeling I had years ago at Orana in Adelaide. From our corner near the bar, we are overlooking the chef’s plating bench, and the other tables in the restaurant, on a large blonde wood table that allows us to sit close together, enjoying the space that fine dining should allow.

Contrasting the light wood, is the darker furnished dining room, with a dark shadow curtain cutting off the main road outside. While we enjoy our cockails, mine a Manhattan nicely mixed by the bar, a flash of colour appears on the table, with the opening dish showcasing a dozen floral ingredients, housed in a comforting spring roll smelling fried pastry, with buttermilk bringing it together.

We are at the beginning of the longer tasting menu. One of the highlights is a dish we are familiar with from a previous experience, with Jerusalem artichokes coming together beautifully, cooked or prepared several ways. It is the only repeat performance, but an almighty one. The flavours exhibited by roasting, and pickling in particular, brought together with a gorgeous puree, is something special.

One of the many dishes I tried for the first time is the rock flathead, served raw, with trout caviar, finger lime, julienne radishes, and a garlic buttermilk sauce. I savoured every single bite. Earlier, tempura like (sourdough culture) vegetables from the farm, including an unusual but tasty melon/cucumber, and pumpkin skin, gave an indication of the technique on display by the kitchen.

With Catherine’s gluten intolerance, one dish that had us planning some piracy in our own kitchen is the cabbage taco, which was one of her stand-outs. Showcasing the variety of the farm, several types of cabbages (brassicas), and leaves combine to form a light and interesting taco, with the charring of the cabbage leaf adding to the familiarity.

Another serious highlight cleverly brought together cauliflower using several techniques, with a deep chicken jus, making it feel like a traditional roast dinner. Just prior we enjoyed celeriac, cut like rissoni, topped with black truffle in a flavoursome sauce, as the kitchen’s take on risotto.

We were on the home stretch of this inventive menu, with one last savoury course, plus two desserts to come. Locally sourced beef is slow cooked as a ragout, and covered in a delightfully bright green broccoli, with sweet pickled broccoli stalk, and broccoli puree as the middle layer. Combined with the Bindi Pinot Noir from 2022, you have matched juiciness, and soft sweet textures.

Two desserts is exactly what Catherine and I want from any tasting menu. The Meyer lemon number to begin is cute in its presentation, and delicious. The lemon creme fraiche has a balanced sweetness, with the granita providing a refreshing textural contrast.

The only critique of the finale is we could have eaten two! The almost pastry like pumpkin top is crisp, with the toasted meringue providing pillowy perfection, and Kei apple providing balance.

I would say wine service is serious business here, but the seriousness is left behind-the-scenes with the professional and diligent approach, as opposed to any fanfare at the table. Chayse sources locally as far as possible, and normally has a story or two behind the choice of drink for any particular dish. It would be remiss to not mention our other waitperson from the US, is also skilled on the wine matches, and characteristics exhibited by the offerings tonight.

One of the highlight wines tonight, besides the pinot, was the Yarra Valley Salo Chardonnay, which ticks Catherine’s boxes with its depth, balance, and texture. It shows elegance, and complexity, and I had to have a glass of my own having tried Catherine’s. Similarly named, and the same variety, the La Ferme De Sato Chardonnay from Central Otago in New Zealand is a special find too.

The passion is still there for the Bertoncello’s and their team, and I desperately hope it continues because O.MY is a special restaurant in every sense of the word. The clear comfort displayed in the offering is a true indication of talent and dedication, and there’s so much to like about that combination.

O.MY
https://www.omyrestaurant.com.au/
70 Princes Hwy, Beaconsfield
Dinner Thurs – Sun; Lunch Sat and Sun
+61 (3) 97699000
info@omyrestaurant.com.au

Plus – earlier review from 2016

April 8, 2023 by bleekong

Lilac Wine – Cremorne – Numerous Occasions – Dinner and Lunch

Are you one of those people, like me, who has the propensity to elevate experiences that are close by? I like to think that with the knowledge of this attribute I can rebalance my thoughts on restaurants and cafes, even when they are literally down the road. Sometimes the plaudits are justified, and supported through the weight of evidence. Sometimes the need for decent locals gets in the way, and that is a time where I decide to be sensible, and refrain from advancing a draft review.

I’m constantly considering what makes one place special, and the next dreary, even when the elements seem similar. One aspect that is naturally intangible is charm. For a local, charm is normally a call to friendliness, and consistency. There is not a restaurant, cafe, or bar, that will entirely profit from its locals, but there are very few that do not need a baseline local following to survive. Marketing is important, but experience is everything else.

After a soft opening, the official opening night at Lilac Wine was a night full of locals, with an unofficial suburban red carpet coming in at adult time. With our three year old in tow, we were nearing the end of the family time, which was incredibly busy in itself. A couple of weeks later I returned for lunch on the bar. A few weeks after that it was time for a friend, Lisa’s, leaving dinner, where we had a very adult evening. Not long after that it was an old work friends dinner on a school night.

Even at the same restaurant, no two experiences are completely the same, but the versatility of this new wine bar, sister to Hazel and Dessous, and from restaurant owning royalty, seems to be gathering an incredible amount of steam. During my last visit it was full on a Wednesday night heading into the Easter weekend. The five of us, all previously work colleagues, enjoyed handing over control to the kitchen, with the $75 chef’s menu. The reason we chose this option, which is not normally one of my preferences? There is basically no dish I tried on the previous three visits that I didn’t like.

From the vegetables with whipped eggplant, to the incredibly addictive woodfired sourdough, to the treatment of lamb (whether rump or belly), and the sweet stuff, the entire menu is balanced, considerate, and big on flavour in some dishes, subtle and elegant in others, but all relatively stripped back as good wine driven food should be. The wines by the glass are numerous, and start at entry level prices ($13 for some glasses is a positive feature, though obviously there is better drinking in the high teens and twenties by the glass). The other night the roussane granache blanc was superb drinking, and a real find. The marsanne has been a feature since day one and at the entry level price still has substance to it, with the Chablis on the other end of the spectrum a celebration in a glass.

The menu follows what is now the classic modern sharing concept of snacks, mid-sized dishes, and then a few larger plates to round it out, with sides almost unmissable, and dessert a great option for those inclined. Depending on the agenda, there are several options to sustain any appetite. I’ve been here for bread and charcuterie (don’t miss the wagyu braesola if available); for a light meal with Catherine trying a few snacks, a larger dish and sides to share; to try half the menu in a small group; and to work through the chef’s menu. On a future occasion I hope to just enjoy a glass of wine and the duck fat potatoes, plus perhaps the black garlic coated chicken mousse eclair, which is a tremendous, albeit expensive, bite or two.

There are some challenging dishes that you should not shy away from. Beef heart comes finely sliced, with a strong but poised taste, balanced with white sauce. Zucchini and walnut bolognaise is not sitting atop pasta, but delights a playful response, the intrigue giving way to the enticing flavours of the dish. Dessert wise the rum baba is likely picking up a following, though I still dream of the day the Hazel honey tart finds its way to Lilac. The port flan is a crowd pleaser too.

From the first visit to the last, I’ve noticed similar, well trained staff, who are excited about the restaurant, the neighbourhood, and the wines. Service is not perfectly restaurant attentive, and is more relaxed and charming, like an Italian enoteca. On any occasion you’ll get a few different staff to the table, working hard, and attending to multiple tables and requests. At the same time it is not difficult to attract attention, and I’ve found the enthusiasm and knowledge of the floor outweighs some of the inconsistency.

Right now there is a substantial enough cool vibe happening here that I’m not one hundred percent comfortable to just rock up, outside of the quieter lunch time period. The helpful aspect is that there is no tyranny of distance for me, and getting here early to secure a table, or a drink or two, is not an issue. The long rectangular bar is both a feature and a convenience for walk-ins, and on decent days the outdoor area is cute, appealing for another reason, which is the fact that the restaurant is decidedly smoky from the fire based cooking methods. Waiting for a table shouldn’t be a great issue, with the Cherry Tree about three hundred metres down the road, to potentially open proceedings, or provide a post-dining cleansing ale.

Inside the theme is very much derived from Hazel, from the kitsch crockery, to the antique display furniture, to the stripped back setting that is both comfortable, and unintimidating, especially if the whole white linen and finery is not your thing. In fact, almost as an ode to the ethos, the graffiti present on the front of the Cremorne next-to-the-tracks warehouse has never been removed (and may have built up since opening).

At first I thought perhaps we were lucky to have a nice wine bar properly in our suburb, and not just on the edge of Richmond. In subsequent visits I’ve started to recommend others plan a visit, and now I’m chuffed to say this place could well become a suburban icon. Lilac Wine has a way to go, but it already has had a fantastic couple of months, and the buzz appears to be growing.

Lilac Wine
31 Stephenson Street Cremorne
https://lilacwinebar.com.au/
hello@lilacwinebar.com.au
Dinner Wed-Sun
Lunch Fri-Sun

December 17, 2022 by bleekong

Gage & Tollner – Brooklyn, NY, USA – Sunday 25 September 2022 – Dinner

There are meals that you can vividly remember. Even though we eat out a fair amount, there are always a handful of meals each year that occupy a precious space in the memory bank, mostly for positive reasons. The space is precious because I have a terrible memory for certain things, names and faces come to mind, and yet I can still recall subtle aspects of certain dishes, and the conversation with the sommelier, at some restaurants.

I mention memory, because that is exactly what I’m going on (plus some photos) for this review. Life has got in the way of my writing, and life is dominated by our little boy. I prioritise the best meals we have each year to feature, and this was not just a brilliant meal, but an all around convivial experience, shared with friends we only have an opportunity to see every few years.

Gage & Tollner is on the edge of Downtown and Brooklyn Heights, and has a fascinating history in the area, with a Victorian era dining room that is simply beautiful. There is a richness of atmosphere as we arrive, with the restaurant already quite full, and the bar at capacity. We are led to our wooden booth to settle in to a meal that would last over four very enjoyable hours.

Enter Caroline and Wyatt who have lived in the area for a couple of decades. They’ve organised dinner tonight, knowing the penchant we have for great restaurants, and have that sense of pride that comes with having an excellent restaurant in your neighbourhood. With a massive menu we are lucky to be guided by their earlier experiences, and there certainly is a diversity in the selections.

Our waitperson takes the extensive order of a selection of oysters, rib eye steak, prawn cocktail, devils on horseback, crispy mushrooms, grilled tuna, brussel sprouts, hashbrown, mushroom risotto, fried chicken, tatter tots, house rolls, Caesar salad, creamed spinach, and a Barolo to top it off! Cocktails to start too, of course.

Described as an oyster and steak house, but certainly much more, you expect the oysters to be high quality. The diversity in the selection is excellent, and I’ve never had such distinctive but seriously brilliant oysters before. Often in an Australian context I would be having several from the same place, but here they have not given up anything for the wider variety, with four different oysters to try. It’s a hell of a start.

Having enjoyed the prawns, devils, and other early courses, some glorious bread shared the spotlight in the form of the famous Parker House Rolls. After quite a break (helpful from a digestive perspective but perhaps a little protracted), we were on to the main events.

Starting with the rib eye, the steak and oyster game is definitely in the big league. The garlic rub is both effective and adds to the presentation. It’s perfectly cooked as you’d expect, and the potato hash is the perfect partner. The tuna is a surprise, the fish steak fillet paired with a delicious pepper and corn salad.

It is time to use the dessert compartment that we try to keep free for these types of feasts. Knowing the serving sizes have been generous this evening, we elect to all share the bomb Alaska which is growing in its fame here. Sure enough it is sensational, and the best one I’ve ever eaten, including a few goes at Stokehouse’s (Melbourne) which is a superb contender.

As it approaches midnight, we have had a wonderful meal and catch up with friends who we only see sparingly. It’s hard to imagine a better venue for such a reunion. It’s also hard to imagine Gage & Tollner not once again being known as an institution of Brooklyn dining.

Gage & Tollner
https://www.gageandtollner.com/
372 Fulton St, Brooklyn, New York
+1347-689-3677

August 26, 2022 by bleekong

Attica – Ripponlea – Saturday 30 July 2022 – Dinner

Our third time in the hallowed dining room of Attica feels more comfortable. We know certain aspects will take care of themselves. The heights of attentive service are assured, and we have already long since paid for the food, which is required upon booking.

Whilst comfortable, there is certainly no feeling of “been there; done that” whatsoever. Part of the script is to continue to evolve and change, and the native Australian ingredients are probably no more prevalent in everyday dining than they were the last time we dined here in 2016. There is always intrigue in the dishes to come.

As I write, I realise that already more than three weeks has passed since our experience, and yet much of it is more vivid than normal dining, because it is so unique. Four hours passes effortlessly, with the only confrontation the occasional ingredient which especially puts Catherine on the back foot.

An example is the parfait, which in this case lives up to its French meaning. You don’t need to look far to find someone who is a bit hesitant to eat liver. So what’s the consensus on Emu liver? Utterly exceptional and my favourite dish of the evening!

The wine is delightful throughout the evening, but the kitchen remains easily the star of the show, and there is some theatre here. Later in the evening, the now usual foray into the back courtyard reveals a camp setting this time around, with the most delicious Basque cheesecake our first dessert. Cooked over the fire, it is still semi-molten, and lives in my memory so vividly I can almost taste it.

Crocodile ribs appeal in a manner hard to imagine. The look, texture, and taste, with the barbeque used to compelling effect, is just really cool. It’s a dish served early on, but I’m not pacing myself tonight, and every piece of flesh is valuable. The wattle dahl is just the same. I’m not leaving a trace.

The final savoury course is another winner, but it is difficult to pick my favourites after the parfait. Here we have a skewer of delicately treated kangaroo, served with frites, béarnaise (Aussie style with local thyme), and a rich pepper sauce too. There’s a spray bottle of vinegar for the frites for obvious reasons. It is so very good. My wish is that in some later stage of life we go to the local pub for kangaroo almost this good, instead of cow.

From interesting, difficult to ordinarily obtain Rose Champagne by Pierre Paillard, to 2013 Lethbridge ‘Allegra’ Chardonnay, to 2021 Jasper Hill Shiraz, there is exceptional wine by the glass to suit any palate, and it is possible to have glasses for less than $20 if you like, or even to try some half glasses. The sommerlier does a superb job, and assisted us several times. Showing an interest always helps.

Attica is expensive. It is a tribute to the restaurant that we’ve been three times and couldn’t imagine not continuing to go back. It is not comfort food, and does not remind us of travel and holidays. It does however make me somehow feel more connected with Australia. How beautiful that a New Zealander writes a menu, and his team execute it impeccably, and it takes you to a place you already live in.