Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula – Wednesday 27 December 2023 – Dinner

Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula – Wednesday 27 December 2023 – Dinner

There is tonic in the act of a dining experience. For Catherine and I, it is well understood, but not formally written, that we need some time to eat, drink, and discuss – to live. Sometimes we don’t have that opportunity, and it is tough.

The find of Donna Maria is attributed to me from many years ago, but it is Catherine who has been multiple times to the stable of Donna Maria, Bistro Elba, and Patsy’s. While I did the discovering, every one of my experiences has had our little boy feature at various ages, and maybe feature a little too much. Sydney is the light of our lives, but some meals need Catherine supervising me, instead of our other little man!

So it has been a lengthy period of time before Catherine and I could finally experience one of these restaurants on our own, as they continue to build in reputation. This evening, we arrive at 6pm and leave just before 9pm, and it is a terrific few hours. Christmas has the frivolity, the wonder of the little ones, and the excitement of a big day. This evening, two adults who have been doing their best at bringing up a four year old, need some serious time to themselves, post a hectic few festive days!

The set three (or four) course menu for a few busy weeks of summer makes complete sense, and is an oasis for us. With plenty of gluten-free options, Catherine has the rare opportunity to actually choose her adventure, and I am pleased that her adventure doesn’t feature my preferences, allowing double the tasting. As we sip our Bellini, and Coravin poured Fiano, our beautifully presented entrees arrive.

Catherine’s snapper crudo with Warragul greens (succulents) and salmon roe, is akin to the flavour of oysters, so you need to be into your seafood to enjoy. I’m a fan, but my risotto, with local broad beans is a winner. A delicate extra virgin olive oil surrounds the perfectly al dente rice, toasted pine nuts, and large slivers of garlic.

Next, as I go from a delicious Stonier Chardonnay, to an even more enticing Montepulciano, we have our mains. Mine is the Osso Bucco pappardelle, which might seem an odd choice in late December, but perfectly goes with the recent crazy cool, and often wet weather, pairing delightfully with the red. Catherine’s skull prawns with the gluten-free pasta, njuda, and ricotta, has depth of flavour, and is well executed.

We asked for a wait on dessert, and we got one, because the semi-freddo was not yet available. However, the switcheroo for Catherine involved the pistachio and olive oil cake, which whilst presented looking like a burger patty with ice cream, was a sweet and enticing dessert. Equal to the task, my bombolini was exquisite with sweetness personified, and a good slather of ice cream too. We were very pleased.

Service had a lot of familiarity to it, because either here, or at sister venues, we had met many of the same waitstaff. In classic Italian style they are doing a nice enough job, with some charisma, and zero stuffiness. Just the way you like it when in Flinders, on the beautiful Mornington Peninsula. Salute!

Donna Maria
https://www.donnamaria.com.au
52 Cook Street, Flinders
Dinner 7 days; lunch Friday to Sunday
Phone (03) 5989 0160
Email eatdonnamaria@gmail.com

Osteria Oggi – Adelaide – Saturday 9 September 2017 – Lunch

There is something beautiful about Osteria Oggi. The striking entrance lined with bar stools; the communal style room to the back right that feels like you are dining in a secret cave; the promise of some of Adelaide’s best Italian.

Veal tongue, anchovy, tuna mayonnaise, fried capers

The four of us are here to have a lunch feast prior to the AFL final later tonight at Adelaide Oval between Port Adelaide and the Eagles. There is that finals buzz in the air on a nice sunny day. People are happy here, and the service staff vibrant and enthusiastic.

Coffin Bay oysters

We order a bunch of entrees and mains, some to share, and some to ourselves. Coffin Bay oysters are an absolutely delicious way to start, definitely in tune with the celebratory feel. The veal tongue is rich, served generously, and done like a veal tonnato, but probably best for just a taste.

Bra sausage polpette crostini, pecorino

On the other hand, the sausage polpette was a dish that you could probably keep eating and eating. Meatballs, tomato, pecorino cheese, and bread, is a combination that is always some degree of good. In this case it was exceptional. Not far off were the sardines. Again, something so simple, but so delicious. I was already making plans to come back here the next time we are in Adelaide.

Sardines, charred bread, fennel

In a similar vein, my main of housemade pappardelle with shaved pork liver, is about as rich as it comes. Then pasta is beautiful, and the deep flavour of the liver makes for an incredible dish. Towards the end I was struggling, but that wouldn’t put me off ordering it again. It was a seriously good pasta.

Housemade pappardelle, pork livers

Trav ordered the spaghetti carbonara, which uses guanciale (cheek), to lift the dish to even greater heights. I think it may have been one of the better pastas Trav had eaten. Catherine and Kerry both couldn’t go past the gnocchi with lamb and peas, a parmesan crust, and celeriac puree. While they found our pastas delicious, they really enjoyed their gnocchi. In particular, Catherine had it above Tipo 00’s which is no mean feat.

Gnocchi with lamb and peas, celeriac puree

As satisfied as we were, nothing was going to get in the way of our dessert. Front and centre, the Oggi take on tiramisu, with coffee anglaise, chocolate parfait and vanilla zabaione, was as delicious and decadent as it looks. A heavenly end to a heavenly meal!

Tiramisu affogato, coffee anglaise, chocolate parfait, vanilla zabaione

Osteria Oggi is a very impressive place to dine. There are obviously a lot of Italian restaurants in all the capitals of Australia. This one is in the top echelon and wouldn’t be out of place in Italy itself.

Osteria Oggi Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Fratelli Fresh – Melbourne, City – Wednesday 27 July 2016 – Lunch

Pappardelle with braised beef cheek ragu

Pappardelle with braised beef cheek ragu

My first Fratelli Fresh experience was in 2008 at Potts Point, which wasn’t the original, but was one of the earliest branches. At the time I thought, “this place is amazing; I wish there were more”. And it did. Not only has Fratelli Fresh continued to expand, but it is now in Melbourne, ready to conquer from an initial flagship position in Alfred Place.

I have been following the Melbourne Italian dining scene for many years as a tourist and over the past 8 years as a local. For most of those years I think the sentiment was to hold the long running Italian restaurants as Melbourne treasures, untouchable by new entrants. While there is no doubt the old school remains extremely cool, there is a growing place for new entrants as the city heaves with growth. Tipo 00 is an excellent example of a break-out, but new, Italian restaurant in the city, that is still honouring Melbourne’s love of all things Italian.

More than any other restaurant undertaking in Melbourne, if you are going to do Italian, you need to do it carefully and properly. Fratelli Fresh is bringing Sydney’s A-game to our proud city, and nothing less would do. The entrance, as it was in the Comme days, continues to be impressive, but is now adorned with a triumvirate of attractive hosts representing both the cafe downstairs, and the steak house (Cut) upstairs.

The downstairs room of Fratelli Fresh is inviting and well thought through. For the first time this year, I’ve walked into a venue that isn’t Scandinavian dominant, and is sensibly (and well) decorated by flourishes of very Italian red, and plenty of Italian paraphernalia reminiscent of the Fratelli brand of the North. It’s comfortable, kept casual with paper napkins, and the artistic writing over the bar is kitsch but not over the top. Both the welcome out in the foyer, and inside the cafe, is warm and our waitperson is attentive, but leaves us to catch up for a time before ordering.

Cheesy Casarecce 'Cacio e Pepe'

Cheesy Casarecce ‘Cacio e Pepe’

There are plenty of good options to stretch out lunch or enjoy a single course. Andrew orders the pappardelle with braised beef cheek ragu, and while I would have been happy with the same choice, I decide on the cheesy casarecce ‘cacio e pepe’. The pappardelle looks great, served generously, and while Andrew says there are a few pieces that haven’t completely broken down, it is still a good dish.

I’m glad I had the warning of “cheesy” because my dish is full of cheesy goodness, making for a really filling main. The casarecce pasta is literally translated to “handmade” and is rustic small twisted fresh pasta, that is perfectly al dente. ‘Cacio e Pepe’ which I had to look up, is “cheese and pepper”, but really I ordered this for the pigs cheeks, which is served in cubes and has the salt and fat goodness that lifts the flavour, with some rapini greens to break it all up a bit. I’d suggest it would not be unwarranted to share the pasta if you are also looking at the wood fired pizzas, or some of the salumi and cicchetti on offer.

With a Butcher’s Bride American pale ale on tap to wash it down, all that is needed to finish today is a long black. My coffee is well made in the no fuss Italian style as you would hope for.

I’m excited about Fratelli Fresh and I’m hopeful they will open even closer to home in the next few years. This will certainly not be the last time I’m here, and it seems that all the experience gained over a decade in Sydney has been beautifully translated into this first offering south of the border.

Fratelli Fresh Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato