What better way to spend a very wet and windy Sunday afternoon? As we enter downstairs at Bar Merenda and climb the spiral staircase up to the second level there is rain tracking sideways. We are in Daylesford in August so it is cold.
There are a few people I know who have been to Bistro Merenda upstairs. They’ve all been treated to a superb ever-changing menu, with warm and inviting service. The seasonality aspect channels Alice Waters from Chez Panisse of Berkeley California. We dined at Chez Panisse many years ago and have been grateful to see her inspiration shared by talented chefs across the globe.
When we go to fine dining restaurants with Syd, who is now seven, we normally write in the reservation comments that “we have a 7 year old with us who is well behaved and used to restaurants”. What that should actually read is “when we go to a restaurant there is a painful ten to fifteen minutes where we try to ensure Syd is well behaved, while trying to read the menu and order a drink, as he sets the table in the manner he likes, and asks for his screens twenty times”. Today is no exception.
We appreciate the challenge for any floorstaff who have to navigate this situation, and ours did his job admirably. He is super experienced and used substantial patience, providing dining options for a very fussy child, and was just generally a fantastic person to speak with through the meal.
On this wild Sunday, the restaurant upstairs is half full, but the bar down below seems to be constantly heaving. We peruse the menu written for just these three days of August, and decide to add Merimbula oysters as a starter, and locally farmed truffles by Black Cat in Wattle Hill to the mushroom risotto at the extraordinarily good price of $12 per person! With alcohol a necessity after the first part of lunch, I’m onto a strong Manhattan using Kinglake Distillery handmade single malt whisky. Catherine has restrained herself into a lovely sparkling wine made from Vouvray (Chenin Blanc) in the Loire Valley.
Our oysters come out looking glorious, and they taste just the same. Toasts with crushed cannellini beans are delicious too, and we have Syd trying a bite, before handing it back to my delight. Next up comes soft house focaccia and olive oil, capocollo, and cervelle de canut. The capocollo, better known as coppa, is a salumi made from pork neck. Bundarra Farm make a version that is rich and soft, marrying the focaccia beautifully. The cervelle de canut is a Lyonnaise dish consisting of soft cheese seasoned with a variety of herbs and spices. Here it is served alongside vegetables including radishes that have been pickled sometime ago by the chefs in preparation for the “hungry gap”, explained to be this time of year where nothing is growing (except lots of potatoes!)
As I move to a glass of the Nebbiolo from Piedmont by Benotti Rosavica, and Catherine to the King Valley Aligote by Terrason, we are presented with the mushroom risotto and the local black truffles. This mushroom risotto is different. First, the stock used is a mushroom stock, but the mushrooms themselves from Wombat Forest, are quite separate to the carnaroli rice, and there is a thin surrounding moat of olive oil. For me there is a touch of sweetness to the dish, and the separate cooking of the mushrooms and the rice make the flavour of the mushrooms themselves stand out, but there is less richness in the rice itself. I wouldn’t want it this way all the time, though it is great here.
We’re chatting frequently with our waitperson upstairs and he’s spending a great amount of time across the three tables he’s serving. I overhear he’s serving a 2021 Syrahmi as part of the wine matching and gain the courage to ask for an off-list glass which he doesn’t hesitate to pour. Named “Once in a lifetime” due to the brilliant vintage, we discuss how some regions seem to be having once in a century vintages a lot! It’s beautiful and matches tremendously with the next course.
Superbly pink lamb sits in a pepper sauce that is expertly crafted, and full of heirloom pepper that is described as also “life changing” and may well be. This lamb from Pig + Earth (go figure) is served with a side of duck fat potatoes that instantly remind us of Hazel where the husband and wife chefs, Oliver Edwards and Brianna Smith, once worked. These texturally consistent and wonderfully cooked-through potatoes, along with a properly dressed leafy salad, make for a winning main course that doesn’t overfill us like some can.
From a technical perspective, the madeleines we are served are everything you could dream of. Using your fingers you dip them into a luscious Meyer lemon curd, and the simple combination is satisfying. We might sound like spoiled children, but we were looking for something a little more involved for dessert, not to take away the technical prowess that goes into the madeleines. A little oddly there’s no non-black tea for Catherine to enjoy with them, when it would make a great combo. I finish with a negroni that incorporates a sweet local red vermouth by Saison.
Syd was treated amazingly considering he is a very stubborn child to entertain. His cheese and butter pasta plus the focaccia made for a great kids meal, and his almost pure lemonade, and the partaking of the madeleines at the end was a real treat.
Everything about our experience at Bistro Merenda was more than pleasant, and completely consistent with the great things we had been told over several months by others who had visited. The bar downstairs is extremely inviting for a future trip too, especially during those times where we are lucky enough to stay at Lake House close-by. Walking out into the subsiding sideways rain was easier after such a delicious meal.
A couple of months ago I wrote about my favourite restaurants in the Melbourne CBD, and I’ve expanded that list to include my favourites outside of the CBD too. This is my list of the Best Restaurants in Melbourne.
Taking a very keen interest in the best of fine dining makes me a willing target for the question “what’s the best restaurant in Melbourne?” “Where do we need to go on our next trip to Melbourne” is the other open ended question for which there is no succinct answer. My usual response is to ask a series of questions to better understand the preferences of the particular contact, as usually my friend is asking for a friend.
I love these questions. I put down whatever I’m doing and I busily begin daydreaming of recent and memorable restaurant visits, where I love to go back to, and where I’ve been with Catherine or in groups, that I’ve really enjoyed. Lists are fun. Lists are never right; never wrong. In an effort to take a view I’m going to give you sixteen restaurants where over a period of time of your choosing I suggest you go to in Melbourne.
There’s no actual order below but I’ve added those outside of the CBD first, and written about the places that I love as I’ve thought of them.
There are many things I love about O.MY. The service staff led by Chayse Bertoncello, and the kitchen led by his brother Blayne are the two main ones though.
O.MY has evolved. From the beginning the script was written. The vision was pursued vigorously, and even a heartbreaking fire couldn’t stop the Bertoncello tornado from making waves.
We’ve been back recently with friends. There are dishes and wine choices that make you grin the broadest grin. It’s a special place.
How can a neighbourhood wine bar get under my skin like Napier Quarter? This place just doesn’t miss. These days I take some expectations, but part of the charm is the quaintness, as if it has been mastered.
The wines are superbly chosen and reasonably priced. The food always screams freshness and vibrancy. The service is as polished as a wine bar in Fitzroy gets.
Big time. It doesn’t get more big time than Stokehouse. This St Kilda icon has also survived fire, and has risen from the ashes with even more strength and meaning. Catherine and I utterly love our time here.
It’s expensive but it is always worth it. I find it to be the most delightful place to dine at with a view in Melbourne. Unlike other tourist spots, it backs it up with immaculate food and wine.
Yes it has gotten to the height of exclusiveness with the cost of the tasting menu, but it is still cheaper than three Michelin Stars in Paris or New York.
From incredible and modern; to native and experimental; to iconic and assured; Attica has had a journey for the ages. I wasn’t around to say I was dining there at the start, but I’ve seen every act since, and they are all show stoppers.
If you want a caring big night out experience, Cutler & Co. will deliver on every front. I’ve accumulated many meals here over the years and the fabric that binds is the collective experience.
It’s a place I haven’t yet dined alone, but besides that I’ve been with Catherine, in small groups, and large groups. At one time even the now Marion was part of Cutler as a function space.
This is the place that gave Gimlet its rocket launcher, and perhaps would be even more popular if Gimlet was never born.
The essence of extraordinary Japanese food comes down to preciseness, quality, and mastery. In a backstreet of Richmond, this is all on show. The treatment of nigiri sushi course after course is stunning.
Putting aside the expense, being at Minamishima is as close to a sushi joint on the border of the Tokyo Fish Market that you can have. Now it has over ten years on the board and nothing needs to change.
Our experience at Yiaga was magnificent. Hugh Allen’s purposeful, architecturally pleasing restaurant showed the incredible learnings he has had over years at Vue Du Monde and Noma.
The degustation only menu is expensive, but wonderful. Service is sharp, showing a very high quality of training, and professional ease. One of the hardest and hottest tables to book since it opened in October 2025, its a matter of forward planning or luck that will get you in.
From the time Catherine and I dined on the bar, watching the fire torched proteins making their way to our space on the bench, Matilda has been an indulgence.
Finishing with a tarte tatin is fitting. Eating everything on the menu is appropriate. Not appropriate is my mate ordering negronis to chase our beers and wines!
The place I keep going back to. A restaurant that I would return to for dinner, or for lunch again the next day. I go at 11.30am for espresso, pasta, and a glass of wine or a negroni. I go at 10pm for a mushroom and truffle risotto with a night cap glass of Italian red. I try to book and always struggle, vowing to remember for next time, but ultimately waiting at 11.30am for a seat at the bar again.
Italian food is clearly my favourite cuisine. Italy is one of my favourite countries, and Rome is one of my favourite cities. Catherine is half Italian. In a tiny Little Bourke Street restaurant, some of the finest Italian food in the world is served. There’s no pomp or finery, but this is fine dining without any doubt. The longer meals call for Tipomisu. The shorter meals can be less than 45 minutes. All are special.
Oh Bar Lourinha. From the first time “the boys” entered while on holiday after the races, to the times since, and several solo dining experiences, this has been awe inspiring. Bar Lourinha can pack substantial swathes of flavour into the tiniest of snacks, and the larger style plates, generally allowing a few delectable tastes that are shared by intimate groups that seem to grow in volume through the evening.
The beauty of this institution is the ease at which you can find a brilliant meal at the odd times. You can go early and graze with a drink before a show; you can go after a show for a few drinks too; you can have a full meal or just a snack. As good as the wine selection is, it is non-negotiable to have some food, even if just a few snacks. The last time I was here the tuna crisp was so good I reordered another before the kitchen ultimately closed. There is something about Lourinha.
From the first time we dined on the bar, to the most recent experience, Supernormal has been an oasis of comfort. You can rock up for a few snacks and turn a normal night into an extraordinary one. You can dine with friends in a group and do the whole menu. The consistency speaks volumes.
This was the first restaurant we took Sydney to after the pandemic had begun, when we got a rare reprieve. We’d supported with pick ups through Providore and it just made sense. I’ve tried most of the menu and I have so many favourite dishes that it is impossible to have them all in any one sitting. Throw in a clever drinks list, and a place good service staff seem to gravitate towards, and you have the perfect versatile venue, where no experience is entirely the same.
The epitome of a big lunch or dinner. Gimlet put a stamp on the Melbourne dining scene the minute it opened. The next minute there were more lockdowns. Holding back here is the only indulgence that is off-limits. Gimlet is a venue that feels fancy having a quick cocktail on the bar, through to a serve of lobster and Premier Cru Chablis.
While the building that houses Gimlet is historic, it was never a temple to gastronomy like it is now. Outside is not the prettiest intersection in Melbourne, but everything inside has its place. This is the Andrew McConnell restaurant where it all comes together seamlessly, and the expense is worth it.
When you walk into Reine & La Rue for the first time you miss a breath. It is impossibly beautiful, especially when full of happy diners. It needs to be busy because the brief is a lot of expensive produce, and a lot of people required to enjoy it night after night.
Intricate snacks, richly flavoured mains, expertly assembled drinks, and an occasional look around at the architecture. You can’t be sure you’re in Melbourne, but you know this city has made it when restaurants of this ilk have landed on the scene.
Having been a long time fan of the sister restaurants on the Peninsula, Patsy’s is one out of the box. The courage to present a purely vegetarian menu is matched by the location near the Queen Victoria Markets. In great dining cities like Melbourne, providing a first class experience night after night, and doubling as a wine bar, is a recipe for continued success.
There’s not a dish we’ve chosen at Patsy’s that has been ordinary. The intellect shown in the combinations and level of flavour is utterly impressive. When there are offerings this good, the vegetarian restriction melts away. The final ingredient is how cute and homely the courtyard, downstairs, and upstairs areas are.
I’m lucky Embla is not too close to home, because I would be there too often. It’s too easy to find an excuse to pop by the bar, take a pew on the kitchen bench, or organise a lengthy lunch or dinner. Going there unannounced and hungry means a very exciting hour or two are upon you.
Solo dining, date night, an intimate group, or a party of ten, are all sound options. On busy evenings it feels like they’ve packed a few extra in, but the elbow to elbow nature makes the experience all the more enticing. A glass of wine and a pasta turn into a mini celebration when I’m feeling spontaneous, but a long planned meal is even better.
Once this room housed Ezard. Much has changed, except for the level of cooking coming out of the kitchen. Nomad pushes the flavour profile up to top-notch, and offers some exquisite beverages to wash it down.
The sharing nature of the menu invites unbridled enthusiasm, and repeat visitors are the norm that keeps Nomad’s vibe up to the standard of the kitchen. The script is part of the dining landscape. Nomad just does it better than most, but you do pay for the privilege.
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