Nothing is left to chance with Yiaga showing maturity beyond its age

There’s no roars, but the whispers are at a constant hum, building a buzz that compels. For types like us who love great food, and the hype of a new entrant, it’s clear that trying Yiaga is going to be very high on our todo list.

From so many people those whispers have all had one main theme. Yiaga is very difficult to book. In a literal sense it is not impossible like many say, but if you have designs on a specific date good luck. The first few times I remembered to try at 10am on the first of the month (for three months later) all of the dates I wanted were gone.

This time as I was ready. It was April Fool’s Day. Bookings for July opened and I got in. Not for my preferred date, or second preference, and I had to take half of Friday off work. But I was in! With the pedigree of the executive chef and part-owner Hugh Allen, and everything I had heard from the few people who had actually been, it was an exciting time in the lead up.

There’s a theme to the service. Though diverse accents can be heard pointing to global reach, the ingredient that binds is the professional ease everyone has. The training regime must be strict and disciplined as there seems nothing is left to chance. It’s great to watch and superb to be the recipient of. Then there is the thoughtful and educational tour that is sure to be a highlight for any guest.

The space is beautiful. It reminds me of dining at a pavilion in Paris. There’s vantage points through the restaurant to the gardens outside. When they notice, most passersby look into the restaurant sheepishly, wondering what is inside. It is architecturally peaceful and purposeful. The kitchen is open. It faces only a handful of the tables, which are sparingly adorned, and beautifully spaced throughout the restaurant.

With any restaurant you want the finery, and the service, but you come for the food. Coconut and macadamia come together splendidly with the addition of N25 Oscietra caviar. The coconut is used instead of soy to make tofu, and the water is used to make jelly that tops it, with macadamia oil making itself prominent against the caviar. Dry aged coral trout with crisped skin sidles up to barely cooked king prawns and Jerusalem artichoke.

Perfectly roasted and slow cooked Sambar deer (venison) are enveloped in jus, with a disc of Tasmanian heritage apple to offset the richness. Green ants cover David Blackmore wagyu over a delightful pancakey bread. A tiny salad tart taunts those who cannot make friends with leaves. Mandarin sorbet somehow tastes more mandarin than mandarins.

Course after course leaves you in delight. Pearls of celeriac under a Tilsit cheese foam, covered in black truffles from NSW producer L’Air du Wombat, have you yearning for more. In a restaurant that is well temperature controlled, the herb ice cream dominated by sea parsley and finger lime begins proceedings with a cool burst. Multiple surprises scatter the lengthy degustation menu.

The sommelier has us partially reliving our time in Canada, where many of the finer restaurants give diners a taste of the wine for each pour, showing generosity. Although the wine is not cheap by the glass, it is not unreasonable, and has many enticing options, with the majority from Australia, but plenty from Europe too. We begin with the Geelong sparkling made by Nadeson Collis for Yiaga and it is delicious though at the price point it should be.

Marsanne Roussanne from Bendigo (Place of Changing Winds), and Chenin Blanc from Margaret River (L.A.S Vino), are both gorgeous whites. The Syrahmi Heathcote Mourvedre is a highlight, and the Italian Nerello Mascalese Blend by ‘I Vigneri’ I chose instead of a dessert wine feels like a great savoury alternative. Many of the wines are sourced from the Vue De Monde cellar, Hugh Allen having learned his wares from Shannon Bennett, and at Noma, over many years.

Artful modern Australian cuisine comes in many forms. Yiaga is serving up incredibly confident dishes that feel years in the making for this ten month old restaurant. With the open kitchen, intelligent restaurant design, and the flavour combinations and techniques, there are multiple times it feels like we are at Attica, Brae, or Orana, but there is no doubt Yiaga has its own style. There is almost no pomp, but a great deal of pride. Putting aside the expense, which is not easy to do, you would love to take guests from overseas here as their big day or night out.

Like the restaurant itself, it’s not a matter of making a song and dance of the experience, but when I put it all together I am humbled to be able to dine here. What a tremendous way to spend a cold wintery Friday.

Related posts:

Attica
Gimlet
O.MY
Brae
Best Restaurants in Melbourne CBD
Best Restaurants in Melbourne – 16 of my favourites