As a professional, I find the outside of Gray and Gray entirely cute, and somehow inviting. An oasis for professionals in Northcote, this is not. A great venue to catch up and enjoy some diverse wines, and slightly familiar but not familiar dishes, this is. The signage is an ode to the previous occupant which appears to be a barrister perhaps.
I’m on a man-date with my mate Trav, and we have had a warm up at The Peacock, which is worthy of more than a sticky beak. Our little high table is cute too. Is there a theme?
Unusually, Ben Haines Chardonnay sits atop of the list of whites by the bottle, and I am sold knowing how good this vigneron is. The wine itself is balanced perfectly with subtle okay treatment, and equally subtle but knowing fruit. Trav has already spotted a Hungarian red that is sure to come next.
We began the food proceedings with a pork skewer each, and some sauerkraut, which combined deliciously. Having looked at the brief menu and considered our options, we thought taking advantage of a number of the meat options suited us, but there were not many.
My choice dish to share came next in the form of blinis with a gorgeous whipped potato, and smoked eel concoction, dressed with salmon roe, chives, and kvas (a low alcohol traditional beverage made similar to beer from north-eastern Europe). Trav didn’t love it, but I was quite taken, grabbing more blinis than my fair share, and smothering them in the dip. It reminded me of the way I sometimes eat pate where the vessel operates to separate my hand from an intense amount of the main show.
As we began on our light Hungarian red, we were served with the khachapuri. Khachapuri is in very simple terms a Georgian pizza. I liken it more to an open calzone. With a kharcho (soup) braised pork and lamb combination, topped with pickled onions and herbs, I was enjoying both the familiarity, along with the difference. The light red only added interest with a slightly earthy nose, and some nice fruit to follow. The slight disappointment was the vegetables, which really didn’t have a lot of flavour when pitted against the khachapuri.
Service throughout had been attentive, even as Trav and I caught up and took forever to order, grazing over a couple of courses. The wine bar style shone through, and we were very comfortable. At the stage we should have stopped eating, I couldn’t help but notice an intense looking honey cake, which was being cut in outrageously large portions. Naturally, we ordered it to share, but were convincingly defeated. I have plans to go back and have the honey cake for dinner at some stage, eager to take revenge on this extremely decadent dessert!
It doesn’t matter how much I love an experience at an expensive restaurant, the chances of me going back are slim because of my propensity to try something new. As I approach Bentley Restaurant + Bar, the question is have I ever really been here?
In a different building, in a different suburb, with a distinctly different feel, the past decade (and a bit) since I have been here must have some stories behind it. Some aspects are similar with a seven course menu offered, and the same team behind the food and wine leadership. It goes to show how important the brains behind a restaurant are, and the ability to change and adapt to a restaurant scene that is incredibly demanding.
I didn’t see Sydney during the pandemic; it was hard enough to leave my postcode in Melbourne! As Vivid Sydney goes on in the background, there is no obvious impact of the pandemic in the numbers moving around the CBD, or in this dark, restrained, dining room.
Dining alone, and not being a huge eater, I decide on the three course menu (plus snacks, and petit four for good measure) at $150. For me, the amount of food is more than enough, and the variety is superb. But let’s start with the wine given the long time celebrity of Nick Hildebrandt’s wine lists.
Exceeding my lofty expectations, I drank extremely well tonight, and took home some extra knowledge too. In particular my extra learnings about the Savoie region of south eastern France, with its tiny plots, and particular love of wines made from the Altesse / Roussette white grape. The 2020 Maison Bonnard ‘De Montagnieu’ Roussette is stunning, and from my searches since is clearly a wine that is difficult (not impossible) to put on a list (or find for home!)
Not to be completely outdone, the 2015 Keith Tullock ‘Museum Release’ Semillon, grabs me on the list of white wines by the glass. Aged Hunter Semillon is a thing for a reason, and I think should be an option at more bars and restaurants. Later with my pork neck, the 2022 Murdoch Hill ‘Vis-A-Vis’ Cabernet Franc from the Adelaide Hills is a wonderful demonstration of a varietal that too often is smothered by Cab Sauv. As another option, a Dolcetto d’Alba was also provided to taste, which was a nice touch.
Speaking of the pork neck, it comes from Bangalow, served very generously with an unusual Chinese lettuce called “celtuce” with a macadamia puree. The pork neck is strong and rich, cooked delicately. I find myself going for some of the celtuce with each bite to temper the indulgent neck, and the macadamia allows some complimentary softness.
Earlier I’d started with snacks that were mainly superb. In particular the tender kangaroo striploin could be served at the end of a banquet and you’d still want more, and more. The tiger prawn, finger lime, and grilled hispi (cabbage), combination is also delightful. On the flipside, I didn’t appreciate the pearl meat, which may be an acquired taste. It was definitely enhanced by the charred grape underneath, but it was the lowlight of my entire meal.
In between the snacks and pork neck, coral trout is barely touched, prettily sitting in a disk with bright orange roe, and a jamon broth surrounding. Helped along by the Savoie, I enjoyed the combination of flavours, but found myself wanting for some contrasting texture towards the final bites.
Wait service, especially wine service, had been great through the evening. The dining room is full, but nicely spaced, and there are diverse groups, including some young adults with their parents (lucky things!) There is nothing awkward about dining alone, and gladly the staff do not try to compensate by spending more time at my table than others.
For dessert I am served the liquorice custard. Inside is white chocolate and mandarin. Here the softness makes complete sense; the sweetness is balanced; and the flavours all work with each other. Even better is the cold petit four following. When has ice cream covered in chocolate ever been passe?
I’m back at Bentley after a long time and just like the last time I want to come back again. It’s when not if, but with so many offerings in the stable of Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrand the question is whether I will make it before I try Monopole, Yellow, or Cirrus, on a future trip to Sydney?
Are you one of those people, like me, who has the propensity to elevate experiences that are close by? I like to think that with the knowledge of this attribute I can rebalance my thoughts on restaurants and cafes, even when they are literally down the road. Sometimes the plaudits are justified, and supported through the weight of evidence. Sometimes the need for decent locals gets in the way, and that is a time where I decide to be sensible, and refrain from advancing a draft review.
I’m constantly considering what makes one place special, and the next dreary, even when the elements seem similar. One aspect that is naturally intangible is charm. For a local, charm is normally a call to friendliness, and consistency. There is not a restaurant, cafe, or bar, that will entirely profit from its locals, but there are very few that do not need a baseline local following to survive. Marketing is important, but experience is everything else.
After a soft opening, the official opening night at Lilac Wine was a night full of locals, with an unofficial suburban red carpet coming in at adult time. With our three year old in tow, we were nearing the end of the family time, which was incredibly busy in itself. A couple of weeks later I returned for lunch on the bar. A few weeks after that it was time for a friend, Lisa’s, leaving dinner, where we had a very adult evening. Not long after that it was an old work friends dinner on a school night.
Even at the same restaurant, no two experiences are completely the same, but the versatility of this new wine bar, sister to Hazel and Dessous, and from restaurant owning royalty, seems to be gathering an incredible amount of steam. During my last visit it was full on a Wednesday night heading into the Easter weekend. The five of us, all previously work colleagues, enjoyed handing over control to the kitchen, with the $75 chef’s menu. The reason we chose this option, which is not normally one of my preferences? There is basically no dish I tried on the previous three visits that I didn’t like.
From the vegetables with whipped eggplant, to the incredibly addictive woodfired sourdough, to the treatment of lamb (whether rump or belly), and the sweet stuff, the entire menu is balanced, considerate, and big on flavour in some dishes, subtle and elegant in others, but all relatively stripped back as good wine driven food should be. The wines by the glass are numerous, and start at entry level prices ($13 for some glasses is a positive feature, though obviously there is better drinking in the high teens and twenties by the glass). The other night the roussane granache blanc was superb drinking, and a real find. The marsanne has been a feature since day one and at the entry level price still has substance to it, with the Chablis on the other end of the spectrum a celebration in a glass.
The menu follows what is now the classic modern sharing concept of snacks, mid-sized dishes, and then a few larger plates to round it out, with sides almost unmissable, and dessert a great option for those inclined. Depending on the agenda, there are several options to sustain any appetite. I’ve been here for bread and charcuterie (don’t miss the wagyu braesola if available); for a light meal with Catherine trying a few snacks, a larger dish and sides to share; to try half the menu in a small group; and to work through the chef’s menu. On a future occasion I hope to just enjoy a glass of wine and the duck fat potatoes, plus perhaps the black garlic coated chicken mousse eclair, which is a tremendous, albeit expensive, bite or two.
There are some challenging dishes that you should not shy away from. Beef heart comes finely sliced, with a strong but poised taste, balanced with white sauce. Zucchini and walnut bolognaise is not sitting atop pasta, but delights a playful response, the intrigue giving way to the enticing flavours of the dish. Dessert wise the rum baba is likely picking up a following, though I still dream of the day the Hazel honey tart finds its way to Lilac. The port flan is a crowd pleaser too.
From the first visit to the last, I’ve noticed similar, well trained staff, who are excited about the restaurant, the neighbourhood, and the wines. Service is not perfectly restaurant attentive, and is more relaxed and charming, like an Italian enoteca. On any occasion you’ll get a few different staff to the table, working hard, and attending to multiple tables and requests. At the same time it is not difficult to attract attention, and I’ve found the enthusiasm and knowledge of the floor outweighs some of the inconsistency.
Right now there is a substantial enough cool vibe happening here that I’m not one hundred percent comfortable to just rock up, outside of the quieter lunch time period. The helpful aspect is that there is no tyranny of distance for me, and getting here early to secure a table, or a drink or two, is not an issue. The long rectangular bar is both a feature and a convenience for walk-ins, and on decent days the outdoor area is cute, appealing for another reason, which is the fact that the restaurant is decidedly smoky from the fire based cooking methods. Waiting for a table shouldn’t be a great issue, with the Cherry Tree about three hundred metres down the road, to potentially open proceedings, or provide a post-dining cleansing ale.
Inside the theme is very much derived from Hazel, from the kitsch crockery, to the antique display furniture, to the stripped back setting that is both comfortable, and unintimidating, especially if the whole white linen and finery is not your thing. In fact, almost as an ode to the ethos, the graffiti present on the front of the Cremorne next-to-the-tracks warehouse has never been removed (and may have built up since opening).
At first I thought perhaps we were lucky to have a nice wine bar properly in our suburb, and not just on the edge of Richmond. In subsequent visits I’ve started to recommend others plan a visit, and now I’m chuffed to say this place could well become a suburban icon. Lilac Wine has a way to go, but it already has had a fantastic couple of months, and the buzz appears to be growing.
Would I have done this ten years ago? Most probably not. There are two main reasons: quality; and perception. Back then the quality was nowhere near as good, and the perception was bad.
So as Catherine, my toddler Sydney, and I, walk into Patsy’s, why is dining at a vegetarian restaurant no longer a faux pas. Why are we comfortable (actually excited), and why do we have reasonable expectations?
Personally, my main reason is because some of the best dishes I’ve had in recent months are vegetarian, and over the years I’ve had many experiences where those dishes have been extremely good. Catherine is excited because she really likes the sister restaurant in Flinders, Donna Maria, which does quality Italian (but is not vegetarian).
Patsy’s is on the big round-about close to Queen Vic Market on Franklin Street. It is filled with vintage furniture, simple quaint decoration, and a white and green courtyard backdrop. Instantly I feel comfortable.
It’s not a big place, and sells itself as a wine bar too, with that friendly but professional enoteca type service. There’s no place for stuffiness, and that includes the customers.
On the menu there are a range of options, with the modern sharing style format. We decide to share the snack “Pinzimonio di Verdure”, which consists of various preserved vegetables with a hazelnut and olive bagna cauda, which is a traditional dipping sauce made of oil, butter, anchovies and garlic. It is a nice, fresh beginning.
A lot more decadent, the “Zlikrofi” is two Slovenian potato and chickpea dumplings, sitting in a sweet wine and rich shallot sauce. By the end I had ‘vinegar cheeks’ but was loving it; the firmness of the dumpling perfect for my taste.
We are certainly not big eaters, and mains were substantial as we had the Boudin de betterave along with two sides. The Burgundian beetroot sausage is an absolute full flavoured winner. With Cafe de Paris emulsion, and wrapped in vine leaves, it is just delicious. Some would say you better’ave it!
Kipfler potato mash, with its gorgeous smokiness, is a terrific addition. As is a collection of different chargrilled beans with ajo blanco, which is a Spanish soup (in this case more a sauce) made with bread, almonds, garlic, water and olive oil. This is a beautiful array of vegetarian cuisine.
While we are completely content, we are going to order dessert no matter what. At this stage we’ve really enjoyed the wine too. The native grape of Santorini is rare to find by the glass so we both indulged in a glass of Assyrtika (by Gaia Thalassitis), and by now I am onto the less complex, but deliciously juicy Xinomavro red which is also Grecian.
Dessert is curiously presented, but pretty, with the Fragole con Zabaione perfect after a substantial meal. Marinated strawberries, and strawberry ice cream, are served under the Italian combination of egg yolks, sugar and sweet wine.
Even at an early dinner, there is a great vibe here, and staff are atuned to it. We have a growing banter with the waitstaff and enjoy learning more about this culturally diverse restaurant in its early days. Vegetarian is no longer a restriction, and offerings like Patsy’s continue to make a case for its beauty. I even got to have a sausage!
Yes! We have found a restaurant with waitstaff that can keep up with the humour and wit of my Mum! The restaurant manager mentions “Jesse will be with you shortly” and the first thing Jesse hears is something to do with the song “Jesse’s girl” care of Mum, followed up with my lack of singing ability when trying to explain what she is talking about. In the first few moments we know we have the right place.
Mum is in her element when we add terrific guidance on the geographical and varietal diversity of the wine list, some natural oysters from Smoky Bay in South Australia (that are perfect), and a fun family catch up along with Catherine and my Aunty Sher. As usual we are deep in conversation for the entire meal, but occasionally that conversation is broken by a comprehensive enjoyment of the food and wine.
Roasted beetroot
Shadow Wine Bar has now “been around”, especially for a restaurant and bar in the Perth market that can be as trendy, as it is fickle, and often unapologetically challenging to remain relevant. I had been here for a drink, but never for dinner, but it did remain on my list. Maybe such a delay in dining here meant I had lesser expectations? Those expectations don’t matter, because even if they were loftier, they would have been exceeded tonight.
Meatball
On top of those perfect oysters, across the table we tried the cheese puff, and the meatball, plus the roasted beetroot with barley. They were all good to great. The beetroot was soft and sweet from the roasting, but the barley added strong texture, and the yoghurt was just right to add some creaminess.
Spaghettini with crab
For mains, Sher and I both chose the spaghettini with crab, capers, lemon, and a light dose of chilli. The surprise was homemade spaghettini which is difficult to achieve with the right firmness, but this pasta was excellent without being absolutely perfect. The sauce made good use of all the ingredients in balanced proportions, though you can never have too much crab.
Gnocchi with tomato and eggplant
Catherine loved her gnocchi with a tomato and eggplant sauce. I tried it and thought it to be the equal of my pasta. Mum’s agnolotti lived up to her expectations too.
For dessert we shared the tiramisu and the pear tarte tatin. The latter was the better dessert by far. While the tiramisu was nice enough, it was more cake-y than usual, and missed the high notes. The pear tarte tatin was strongly executed, with crisp pastry.
Pear tarte tatin
Shadow Wine Bar impressed on all levels. While it is equally adept for a casual wine catch up, the dining version is now my favoured scenario. And Mum will definitely be back for some more oysters!
If I walk into a restaurant, and Dan Goodsell is there, I am immediately comforted that the food and wine options are going to be top notch, and the service naturally great too.
Over Christmas I did just that with my Mum at Billie H. We were here for a quick wine, but I had heard good reports about the food too. When I saw Dan, and later the enthusiasm of John Lethlean of The Australian, I had it at the top of my Perth list to try. Mum was keen too, the slightly chilled Sagrantino winning her over at first try. This is a little known grape variety from Umbria in Italy that is being made by Jamsheed in Victoria, and it is luscious.
Braised octopus, paprika, almonds, orange, chilli
The next time I was in Perth I was true to my list. I made a booking at Billie H for my aunty Sher, Mum and I. This wine focussed restaurant and bar has the modern Australian share plates theme nailed.
It did take us some time to narrow down our choices. We ended up starting with the braised octopus, which was lifted with the crunch of almonds and the orange segments worked nicely for some citrus. I had heard the roasted grapes with labneh and my favourite bitter leaf, radicchio, is excellent and it didn’t let us down. I love how a dish that would cost the kitchen next to nothing is so flavoursome. This is eating.
Braised pork jowl, apricot, fennel
Next was my choice go-to share dish in the carrots, which are combined with farro and puffed grains. I am finding this style of dish on a lot of menus, including cafes, and it is equally as good whether on its own, or as a side. The natural sweetness of roasted carrots make them so easy to combine with offsetting herbs, adding the texture of grains or nuts makes sense too.
At this stage we were finishing our bottle of Sang De Pigeon Pinot Noir, from the Adelaide Hills, and moving on to the Rayos Uva Rioja, a blend of tempranillo and graciano. The beauty about wine bars that really focus on their list is the diversity you can find. Sure, it is good knowing the old trusties, but having the confidence to explore a list is comforting in its own way. We were in good hands and the wines were both terrific.
To finish the savouries we tried the pork jowl. Again this is one of those dishes that are win win for the kitchen and customer alike. It is a cheaper, but glorious, cut of meat, and one that you feel much better about indulging when not in your own kitchen.
Panna cotta, red wine figs, roasted white chocolate
The dishes are a good size and we together are not huge eaters. We probably didn’t need it but I insisted on dessert so we shared the panna cotta with red wine figs and this brilliant roasted white chocolate crumb. Everything was well executed, but the crumb was something else.
The restaurant business is one of the most fickle. With such a strong history of giving diners what they want, Dan is on to another winner here. Claremont is the richer for it.
Fitzroy continues to be one of the most exciting areas in the country. The impossible-to-keep-up-with openings have softened a touch, but the mainstays of recent years are going from strength to strength. If you add the places in Collingwood, many across the road along Smith Street, you have a vibrancy that is difficult to equal.
2010 Domaine de Roqueforte Petit Salle Clairette from Provence, France and 2015 Alice & Olivier de Moor Chitry Chardonnay from Burgundy, France
Early this evening we start on Johnston Street at Bar Liberty. This wine obsessed bar and restaurant has the versatility we have come to love in modern times. The wine list introduces you to wines that are not common, whether due to the variety, the maker, or the region. Throw in a delicious, but slightly over-peppered cacio e pepe bucatini pasta as a snack to graze on and we are very comfortable indeed.
Bucatini cacio e pepe
I was back at Bar Liberty in early February trying some new wines, and tried out Drinkwell, the new aptly named outdoor bar behind, which is a bit more casual. Tonight however there was more wine drinking to be done over at Napier Quarter.
On a beautiful warm early summer evening, Napier Quarter’s tiny outdoor tables are worth the compromise. A more traditional, but still creative, wine list allowed us to go back to our favoured varieties. We had whiled away the early evening and were approaching sundown, so it was time to order more substantially.
We chose the heirloom tomatoes, the Cuca Spanish anchovies and the charcuterie board. The latter was good value considering its reasonable price, displaying three meats that were a combination of local and overseas cured. The heirloom tomatoes showed off several varieties, textured by chorizo pangrattato. The quality of tomatoes around Australia just continues to grow, and these, drizzled with plenty of quality olive oil, are no exception. I would have been as happy with them on their own.
Cuca Spanish anchovy
The anchovies were the biggest hit though. Simply served on bread with plenty of parsley, a chopped boiled egg, and a mayonnaise style sauce, this is a classic wine bar offering. It’s the kind of dish that you are eating and thinking “we need to make this at home” but we never seem to getting around to it! If only Napier Quarter was around the corner.
I love eating on the bar. There is a propensity for diners to automatically expect to be offered a table when dining at a restaurant. This means a lot of us are missing out on the experience of eating at the bar.
When I was 25 years old, I went around the world on my own for 10 weeks. Luckily, I was already a fan of eating alone, so meal time was not as confronting as it could have been. Back in Perth, it was almost as if the waitstaff serving me would be more uncomfortable about my dining habit than I was, often almost forcefully trying to provide reading material (which I declined).
When I got to New York City, I found an almost endless supply of restaurants featuring (on purpose) a bar for overflows and loners. I was in heaven. My most memorable experience was at Union Square Cafe. As well as the magnificent bar staff, I remember taking a photo half way through a three course meal, and my part of the bar was adorned with bread, wine, and cognac. Many times whilst dining at a bar back in Melbourne I think about those experiences. As you would know, the bar concept is now a feature of Melbourne dining.
Red wine and gnocchi
Tucked away just off Nicholson Road is Neighbourhood Wine. We don’t have a booking which is dangerous on a Friday, but we have the choice of two tables, or the long stretch of empty bar space. In sync, Catherine and I choose to sit at the bar, although we were questioning the look of the actual bar stools.
It turns out, the bar stools are very comfy, and beautifully coordinate with the look and feel of this unusual space. Every nook and cranny is filled with bottles of wine, and where not dedicated to wine there is something kitsch in its place. Even the space just outside the toilet has a few dozen bottles of wine.
Wine by the glass is generally natural, with organic featuring heavily. Both of the reds that we try are excellent. The first is a Nebbiolo that has accentuated classic flavours and body that you associate with this variety. Second is a medium bodied Cinsault from the Barossa that takes a little time to open up, eventually showing good length.
The bar person pouring our wines and generally serving us knows his wines. However, he is more bartender than my New York experiences of bar servers. He is quietly spoken and lacks energy, slightly impacting our time here.
Beef ragu croquette, mustard aioli
On the flip side, the food we order is outstanding. We begin with beef ragu croquettes and they are as good as they sound. Next we share the duck and brandy parfait. It comes out as two generous scoops on grilled sourdough. While the serve of this indulgent food could be smaller, I wasn’t complaining! We easily managed to finish it all off.
Duck and brandy parfait, pickled pine mushrooms, grilled sourdough
For our final dish we shared the pan-fried potato and ricotta gnocchi with butternut pumpkin, leeks and pine nuts. It was another good dish, and generous too. It is all too obvious when a kitchen puts out amateur gnocchi and this was certainly not the case. There is confidence in the combination with the pumpkin and pine nuts, and I would be quite happy to have this dish and a nice glass of red any day of the week.
Pan-fried potato & ricotta gnocchi, butternut pumpkin, leeks and pine nuts
We seriously enjoyed our first taste of what Neighbourhood Wine has to offer. With a thought provoking wine list, and plenty of great food options to match, there is more here than just a strong local. With some work on the rapport side with customers on the bar it would be a complete experience.
Roast chicken and Andrew McConnell. Anyone who belittles the virtues of chicken has not tasted perfect roast chicken. There was a time where chicken was plain Jane. Go to Marion and a half roast chicken is anything but that!
The complication (besides salmonella) when cooking chicken is the fact that it is so often overcooked that we all believe it shouldn’t be soft and moist. We overcook it, bringing out extra salt in the skin, that compensates for some of the flavour lost as the chicken dries out. Then we cover it with any sauce to compensate, and have each mouthful with potatoes of some description.
What is difficult to explain is why every time I eat chicken at one of McConnell’s restaurants, whether it be Cutler, or Luxembourg, or here at Marion, it is far better than the rest. Chicken, if nothing else, is certainly not new. It has been around. Why does it seem so complicated normally?
I’m not a chef, and I haven’t done food science in a Heston type manner, so I won’t be answering any of my own questions here. All I know is that you can come to a wine bar on Gertrude Street that serves beautiful quality food, along with interesting wine, and a damn fine roast chicken.
The space is comfortable in the way a crowded, people filled space can be when everyone is having a good time. Service keeps to that script with good ability and reasonable attentiveness. Even our starter of peas, broadbeans, scamorza cheese and pistachios is amazing, almost impossible to set aside to wait to eat with our chicken and chips. Unable to help ourselves, we also tucked into dessert in the form of lemon tart with strawberries and basil. The pastry was slightly sweetened to counteract the savoury quality of the basil with a balanced curd that had us reaching for more.
Almost genius is the fact that we are sitting in a restaurant that is literally next door to Andrew’s flagship, Cutler and Co, which continues to thrive, but could be miles away for all we know. The two are as separate as if they were in different suburbs. That naturally makes dining in them completely different experiences, making dining in one today, and the other tomorrow, absolutely no issue whatsoever. It goes without saying that this is far more lucrative than merely creating another branch.
While I think Marion might be close to genius, I am positive McConnell is pretty much there. Try the chicken.
Smoked pork hock terrine and lentils with lemon cream
I was having lunch at Reunion recently when the owner came up to the table next to me and applauded the lady sitting there for her restaurant. Overhearing a little more I realised her restaurant is Saint Urban, one that I’ve pondered going to enough for this conversation to promote it towards the top of my list.
This particular Saturday night we were actually looking for a cheaper option but the first place we walked into was not enticing (had a smell) and I took the leap to suggest Saint Urban which is a bistro slash wine bar. As we walked in we quickly realised that there was a chance it was already booked out given the number of tables already full. Luckily we got seated on the bar which is quite comfortable.
On the way there we had been for a drink at “Richmond Yard” which is a grungy, post apocalyptic themed trailer park with a few food van options and a bar open on Saturday nights in summer. This meant we could launch straight into the menu, ordering a pork hock terrine, the half chicken roasted in Calabrian spices, and the confit duck (all to share).
The terrine was a delicious start, and more and more this was feeling like the Richmond equivalent of Fitzroy’s Gertrude Street Enoteca. Next came the chicken and duck dishes to share. The spice rub made it for the chicken, but along with that it was perfectly roasted. The duck was almost as perfectly prepared. Both were generous serves with smart accompaniments.
Half chicken roasted in Calabrian spices
With some cakes from Beatrix waiting at home we will need to come back for the carrot cake or one of the other appealing desserts. It may not have been the cheap meal we initially set out for, but it was certainly not expensive, and given the quality of the venue and service, the price makes it entirely reasonable to dine here regularly.
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