Chardonnay

Gray and Gray, Bread and Wine – Northcote – Thursday 16 December 2023 – Dinner
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Gray and Gray, Bread and Wine – Northcote – Thursday 16 December 2023 – Dinner

As a professional, I find the outside of Gray and Gray entirely cute, and somehow inviting. An oasis for professionals in Northcote, this is not. A great venue to catch up and enjoy some diverse wines, and slightly familiar but not familiar dishes, this is. The signage is an ode to the previous occupant which appears to be a barrister perhaps.

I’m on a man-date with my mate Trav, and we have had a warm up at The Peacock, which is worthy of more than a sticky beak. Our little high table is cute too. Is there a theme?

Unusually, Ben Haines Chardonnay sits atop of the list of whites by the bottle, and I am sold knowing how good this vigneron is. The wine itself is balanced perfectly with subtle okay treatment, and equally subtle but knowing fruit. Trav has already spotted a Hungarian red that is sure to come next.

We began the food proceedings with a pork skewer each, and some sauerkraut, which combined deliciously. Having looked at the brief menu and considered our options, we thought taking advantage of a number of the meat options suited us, but there were not many.

My choice dish to share came next in the form of blinis with a gorgeous whipped potato, and smoked eel concoction, dressed with salmon roe, chives, and kvas (a low alcohol traditional beverage made similar to beer from north-eastern Europe). Trav didn’t love it, but I was quite taken, grabbing more blinis than my fair share, and smothering them in the dip. It reminded me of the way I sometimes eat pate where the vessel operates to separate my hand from an intense amount of the main show.

As we began on our light Hungarian red, we were served with the khachapuri. Khachapuri is in very simple terms a Georgian pizza. I liken it more to an open calzone. With a kharcho (soup) braised pork and lamb combination, topped with pickled onions and herbs, I was enjoying both the familiarity, along with the difference. The light red only added interest with a slightly earthy nose, and some nice fruit to follow. The slight disappointment was the vegetables, which really didn’t have a lot of flavour when pitted against the khachapuri.

Service throughout had been attentive, even as Trav and I caught up and took forever to order, grazing over a couple of courses. The wine bar style shone through, and we were very comfortable. At the stage we should have stopped eating, I couldn’t help but notice an intense looking honey cake, which was being cut in outrageously large portions. Naturally, we ordered it to share, but were convincingly defeated. I have plans to go back and have the honey cake for dinner at some stage, eager to take revenge on this extremely decadent dessert!

Gray & Gray
https://breadandwine.com.au
188 High Street, Northcote, VIC
hello@breadandwine.com.au
+61402962444

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Gimlet – Melbourne, City – Friday 27 November 2020 – Lunch

Friday lunch or Saturday dinner? Surely these are the most atmospheric times to dine, but often for different reasons. Today I get to enjoy the intimate side of Friday lunch with my wife, rather than in connection with my work.

There are plenty of power lunches going on mind you. Though we are seated on a table of two above the majority of business lunches. Here we have a view of the good looking dining room that is full of architectural character in Cavendish House.

Gimlet has pedigree. The latest and greatest by Andrew McConnell, there is no doubt it has the bones to succeed. It’s down the road from Supernormal on the corner of Flinders Lane and Russell; it already has a charismatic feel; and it walks the difficult tightrope between intimacy, and a place to be seen.

Before I write about the high quality coming out of the kitchen, and also the bar, I need to point out that Gimlet is not at its peak from a service perspective. Again, it has the makings, but the execution is not quite there yet. There are some noticeable times where the floor is trying to communicate covertly, but is tripping up. A knowing of what to do, but not necessarily how to do it; a nervousness.

Not that service took anything away from our terrific lunch, playing high stakes, and placing our main bet on a half lobster, and a bottle of chardonnay from Burgundy. More of that a little later.

As we finished our Coutier champagne to celebrate being out for a Friday date, and 28 days of double doughnuts, we were presented with our first entree. We began with “seafood salad” which appealed to us, especially after learning it consisted of a Tiger prawn, pippies, and mussels. Those elements are delicious, but the peeled cherry tomatoes, heavy on flavour, are the other half of the equation, along with succulents that do a dual role of enhancing this dish, which is dressed beautifully.

Seafood salad, preserved tomatoes, coastal herbs

The gnocco fritto is superb too. Crisp pockets topped with bresaola, that already had us thinking about the next time we could drop by on the bar for a few snacks and cocktails. At this stage the charred romaine heart side came out.

It was a completely innocent mistake, but we had asked what would go well with the lobster as a side and this was the recommendation, which was a great suggestion, especially with the salty guanciale, and anchovy dressing. However, because it came out with entrees, the lobster wasn’t called away as a main and we waited for quite a while until our waitperson realised. Though, nothing in the world was wrong when the half Southern rock lobster landed on our table.

The selling point as a very expensive main to share was the saffron rice that surrounds and adds flavour to the wood roasted king of seafood. As a combination, the tomatoey saffron rice, along with the indulgent juicy lobster meat, is utterly gorgeous. Add in a 2015 Colin-Morey Bourgogne chardonnay and you have the Friday lunch dreams are made of.

Panettone, zabaglione, Christmas spices and grappa

As we reflected on our delicious savoury courses, we had some room for a shared dessert. The “Panettone, zabaglione, Christmas spices and grappa” seemed to jump off the menu as we enter the Christmas period. Once we had our first taste of the thick zabaglione and rich panettone we couldn’t stop until it was but a memory. Absolutely delicious.

Catherine’s mint tea, and my double espresso, were also good quality as you’d expect, but the extended time they took post dessert to hit the table was again a sign that there is some room to improve. It honestly didn’t matter because I’m already thinking about the next opportunity to get back to Gimlet. It was that great.

Gimlet at Cavendish House
https://gimlet.melbourne/
33 Russell Street, Melbourne
(03) 9277 9777
frontdesk@gimlet.melbourne

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Paringa Estate – Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula – Saturday 28 December 2019 – Lunch

Looking across a vineyard. This is my type of view as the backdrop to a wonderful meal. Like the ocean, or any large body of water, rolling greenery will never get tired.

It just isn’t possible to have a meal like this in the city. So while the prices are not cheap by any means, they are not inflated by the beauty of the vines, which came along far earlier. Today the logistics are in our favour because we are staying in an Airbnb close by, which also happens to be close to Nonna’s place for our little boy to be taken care of. It’s time to relax over a five course tasting menu at Paringa Estate.

Paringa has been one of the best wineries in the Mornington Peninsula region for many years, and the restaurant has gone from strength to strength. Catherine dined here with family a few years ago, and I’ve wanted to give it a try for myself ever since. With restaurants like Laura, Port Phillip and Kooyong Estate, Doot Doot Doot and sibling Rare Hare in the area, you need to be very good to figure. There are several others too, not to mention Ten Minutes By Tractor whose return is eagerly awaited.

Vegemite scrolls, and pigs in blanket

The city boy novelty of dining at a winery is only maintained when the food (and wine) are matched or bettered by the view. Delicious snacks act as reminders of not taking dining here too seriously, with a vegemite scroll, a pig in blanket (prosciutto with a fig filling), and “green eggs and ham”, also hinting at the strength of the food to come.

Green eggs and ham

Simon Tarlington’s version of Surf & Turf presents mussels topped with thinly cut corned wagyu. It is unexpectedly subtle, allowing the mussels to share the limelight with the wagyu.

Paringa ‘Surf & Turf’

Next we have a dish presented where the components are bursting from the plate. It could be an Olympic dish for the Australian’s with its green and gold flourishing from the use of asparagus and nasturtiums on the one hand; and lemon and egg on the other. While lemon hollandaise is a classic combination, the sweetness here was a little too much for me by the end, but Catherine was a big fan of the almost lemon curd like sauce.

Local Asparagus, Egg, Lemon, Almonds

By now we were finishing our initial glasses of white, having begun with a lesser known, but gorgeous champagne called ‘Esprit Nature’ by Giraud. Catherine’s flagship Paringa Single Vineyard Chardonnay is an excellent expression of the variety, and of what Mornington can produce. My Viognier is not one of the main Mornington varietals, but does have plenty of polish itself, and works well with its versatility. Next we tried the flagship Paringa Single Vineyard Pinot Noir. With both the lamb and duck courses to come we were enjoying a wine to behold, again a tradition of the region, and one which has been slowly coming closer to the top echelon with each year that passes.

Otway Ranges Lamb, Peas, Beans, Native Leaves

The lamb I’m speaking of is from the Otway Ranges, and is served with peas, beans and native leaves. The broth again shows subtlety, siding with the nicely cooked lamb well, and is added to by the fresh large peas that are a delight. It is delicate. The kind of dish that you want to go hand in hand with a great wine.

Mount Macedon Duck, Tomato, Cherry, Native Pepper

Another step in the flavour profile is added with the duck from Mount Macedon, which has skin to die for with the native pepper put to good effect. I can give or take the acidity in the tomato (which has been peeled!), but the sweetness in the cherry is the right stuff, and the sauce brings it together wonderfully. Again, not overdoing the number of components allows the wine to become an important element. It is impressive.

Meredith Sheep Yoghurt, Verjuice, Honeycomb, Plum

Being a fan of sweeter and/or chocolate desserts, seeing the description of our sweet course didn’t fill me with excitement, but honeycomb is something I love so all was not lost. I am glad I was wrong. At the end of a tasting menu, with a lot of great and complex dishes, having a soft dessert with flavoursome elements was a great way to finish. The verjuice used as a broth a nice touch, bringing grapes back into the picture. The restaurant should, however, consider some petit fours to finish, that could give sweeter-tooths a bit more sugar.

All along service had the usual semi-country charm. It was not perfectly attentive, but it was friendly and professional enough to meet the mark. The sommelier today (Nick) was particularly helpful and fun, enjoying a chat about the wines and the history of Paringa, which always adds something to a winery visit. He works the cellar door tastings too, and would be an excellent host.

While the expense doesn’t make Paringa accessible frequently, it is an exceptional place to spend an afternoon overlooking the vines, and eating and drinking some of the best quality there is on offer on the Peninsula.

Paringa Estate Winery & Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Mt Lofty Ranges – Adelaide Hills – Saturday 1 August 2015 – Lunch

IMG_4040_2What a beautiful drive up into and through the Adelaide Hills. It is breathtaking. While at Petaluma we tried some fantastic wines made locally, in Coonawarra and in Clare. As we finished we asked about where to go for lunch.

Based on our simple brief for something good quality and casual with a fire, the lady serving us surveyed her colleagues and even some of the other tasters got involved. We were sent off in search of Mt Lofty Ranges and its cellar door and restaurant about twenty minutes away.
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They were spot on with only one issue – no tables left! We were not left in the lurch by the staff at Mt Lofty and they managed to restructure part of the restaurant and find some chairs to seat us. That kindness and hospitality was a theme of the entire meal.

The menu is brief and focussed, changing regularly as we understand it. Jumping out to Catherine and I were the pot pies. She chose the chicken and I chose the beef. Cooked in the Mt Lofty Chardonnay, the chicken, leek and mushroom are combined in a creamy sauce, topped by a perfectly cooked disk of flaky pastry. The beef on the other hand is cooked in Mt Lofty Pinot Noir. Both are seasoned properly and are full of flavour; two of the most delicious pies we’ve tried in some time. As we enjoyed our delicious pies we noticed the other two main dishes, the lamb shank and the fish, also look tremendous.
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I had a glass of the Mt Lofty Shiraz which is a nice cooler climate expression compared to the huge Shiraz from the day prior in the Barossa, and Catherine tried a glass of the Chardonnay her chicken had been cooked in which was a nice balanced version with not too much oak. We were fifty-fifty for dessert but given the taste of the pies we had to have a try to see if dessert could be anywhere near as good.
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The Panettone bread & butter pudding includes grappa and sultanas, with a good measure of vanilla ice cream. Again, the flavour of the pudding was more concentrated than most other versions you try and we were left very impressed. Panettone is an Italian slightly sweet bread-like cake which you see more and more in place of bread in this traditional dessert.

We had certainly been pointed in the right direction at Petaluma. The fire was still being stoked through lunch, and there was a full restaurant of equally stoked customers.

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