Tasting Menu

du Fermier – Trentham, Victoria – Friday 1 September 2023 – Lunch
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du Fermier – Trentham, Victoria – Friday 1 September 2023 – Lunch

Comfort is an expectation of many diners. At du Fermier, comfort is taken to a different level. From the entry into instant fiery warmth, into every other element, and the eventual goodbye.

There are some restaurants that purposely have an edge, extending the diner to experience new ingredients, new combinations, new technology, or new means. Some of these restaurants can be so expensive that people feel like they do not fit in. If you want to be taken care of, by people who really love what they are doing, who only want you to have the nicest time, then you might find what you are looking for at Annie Smithers’ long time Trentham restaurant.

When Annie brings out the first course, exhibiting three kinds of heirloom beetroot, with feta, rocket, and balsamic, it is like you are dining at her home. It’s a moment. We haven’t been to an Annie Smithers’ restaurant since Kyneton back in 2010 (unless we count NGV, which she has a venue), and there is no reason other than circumstance, as it was a great meal 13 years ago. We naturally tell her how glad we are to be back.

The floorstaff are outstanding. Not in a showy way. In a way that often great service reveals itself. One indication of great service is not noticing it, or rather not noticing any shortcomings. Great service is often looking forward to the next interaction with the staff, as we did on this occasion, and knowing that while they are enormously hospitable and friendly, they do take their roles seriously.

Our next course arrives and it is exciting because we are viewing the combination of duck eggs, pecorino, and black truffle done immaculately in two different ways. Catherine’s gluten-free option is a duck egg omelette that I am lucky enough to try a couple of times, generously topped with shaved local black truffle. Only a couple of times in my life have I tasted such simple omelette perfection. My dish is fresh duck egg pasta, topped with the same pecorino, and black truffle. It is equally demonstrating how delicious food can be. It is a course that we may request in the future it is so memorable.

The wines by the glass are restrained, but of high quality. We have started earlier with Champagne by A.Margaine, which is from Villers-Margery equidistant between Reims and Epernay, heading east. We’re finding a lot of restaurants want to have a Champagne by the glass, but not from one of the well known Houses, and each time we find something we would be happy to have more available to us in our own homes. The Maison Lapelus 2020 Roussanne, funnily enough from the region we are in (Macedon Ranges), is by an originally French winemaker. It is sensational, with all the texture and mouthfeel you expect from this variety, some aging complexity with French oak, and plenty of soft stone fruit.

Now I’m choosing between the Pinot Noir and the Syrah, and when it accidentally slipped that duck was the next course, I couldn’t help but honour the cliche with the Domaine des Vercheres Bourgogne 2021. This Pinot has some depth and earthiness which I like, and pairs nicely with the very generously proportioned main dish for us to share. Roasted duck breast, and confit duck leg, are served with duck fat potatoes, and roasted carrots, with a light jus, in what is a beautifully prepared dish of pure comfort. This is Annie’s cooking on a share plate, and it is delightful.

As is often the case with tasting menus, it is hard for Catherine and I to not notice the desserts going out earlier as we head toward our final, and one of our favourite courses. My dessert is the Paris Brest, which is always a hit when the pastry is properly executed. Judging by the empty plates going back to the kitchen, it was never any doubt that this was a very good quality Paris Brest. Catherine gets to try the hazelnut creme, and some chocolate mousse, with the hazelnut praline, as her dessert course, and it is still good, but the pastry is the winner for the texture (and the fat content!)

From the warmth of the greeting, to the prized corner bench seat, to the comfort of Annie’s farm to table dishes, du Fermier (“of the farmer”) is everything you could want from a dining experience. The drive to Trentham is not excessive for a day trip like we did, and the town is charming, with plenty of accommodation options, in a great part of Victoria. Annie Smithers and her team have delivered a destination restaurant that exudes care in every facet of the dining experience.

du Fermier
https://anniesmithers.com.au/du-fermier
Lunch – Friday to Monday
42 High Street Trentham Victoria
Phone 03 5424 1634
Bookings – https://anniesmithers.com.au/du-fermier

Note – since our experience and after I finished writing, I’ve realised that one of our waitstaff was restaurant manager, Bronwyn Kabboord, who won a service excellence award from the Good Food Guide and was mentioned as the “dining equivalent of a big hug”. Based on our experience this is well deserved!

Bentley Restaurant + Bar – Sydney City – Tuesday 6 June 2023 – Dinner
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Bentley Restaurant + Bar – Sydney City – Tuesday 6 June 2023 – Dinner

It doesn’t matter how much I love an experience at an expensive restaurant, the chances of me going back are slim because of my propensity to try something new. As I approach Bentley Restaurant + Bar, the question is have I ever really been here?

In a different building, in a different suburb, with a distinctly different feel, the past decade (and a bit) since I have been here must have some stories behind it. Some aspects are similar with a seven course menu offered, and the same team behind the food and wine leadership. It goes to show how important the brains behind a restaurant are, and the ability to change and adapt to a restaurant scene that is incredibly demanding.

I didn’t see Sydney during the pandemic; it was hard enough to leave my postcode in Melbourne! As Vivid Sydney goes on in the background, there is no obvious impact of the pandemic in the numbers moving around the CBD, or in this dark, restrained, dining room.

Dining alone, and not being a huge eater, I decide on the three course menu (plus snacks, and petit four for good measure) at $150. For me, the amount of food is more than enough, and the variety is superb. But let’s start with the wine given the long time celebrity of Nick Hildebrandt’s wine lists.

Exceeding my lofty expectations, I drank extremely well tonight, and took home some extra knowledge too. In particular my extra learnings about the Savoie region of south eastern France, with its tiny plots, and particular love of wines made from the Altesse / Roussette white grape. The 2020 Maison Bonnard ‘De Montagnieu’ Roussette is stunning, and from my searches since is clearly a wine that is difficult (not impossible) to put on a list (or find for home!)

Not to be completely outdone, the 2015 Keith Tullock ‘Museum Release’ Semillon, grabs me on the list of white wines by the glass. Aged Hunter Semillon is a thing for a reason, and I think should be an option at more bars and restaurants. Later with my pork neck, the 2022 Murdoch Hill ‘Vis-A-Vis’ Cabernet Franc from the Adelaide Hills is a wonderful demonstration of a varietal that too often is smothered by Cab Sauv. As another option, a Dolcetto d’Alba was also provided to taste, which was a nice touch.

Speaking of the pork neck, it comes from Bangalow, served very generously with an unusual Chinese lettuce called “celtuce” with a macadamia puree. The pork neck is strong and rich, cooked delicately. I find myself going for some of the celtuce with each bite to temper the indulgent neck, and the macadamia allows some complimentary softness.

Earlier I’d started with snacks that were mainly superb. In particular the tender kangaroo striploin could be served at the end of a banquet and you’d still want more, and more. The tiger prawn, finger lime, and grilled hispi (cabbage), combination is also delightful. On the flipside, I didn’t appreciate the pearl meat, which may be an acquired taste. It was definitely enhanced by the charred grape underneath, but it was the lowlight of my entire meal.

In between the snacks and pork neck, coral trout is barely touched, prettily sitting in a disk with bright orange roe, and a jamon broth surrounding. Helped along by the Savoie, I enjoyed the combination of flavours, but found myself wanting for some contrasting texture towards the final bites.

Wait service, especially wine service, had been great through the evening. The dining room is full, but nicely spaced, and there are diverse groups, including some young adults with their parents (lucky things!) There is nothing awkward about dining alone, and gladly the staff do not try to compensate by spending more time at my table than others.

For dessert I am served the liquorice custard. Inside is white chocolate and mandarin. Here the softness makes complete sense; the sweetness is balanced; and the flavours all work with each other. Even better is the cold petit four following. When has ice cream covered in chocolate ever been passe?

I’m back at Bentley after a long time and just like the last time I want to come back again. It’s when not if, but with so many offerings in the stable of Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrand the question is whether I will make it before I try Monopole, Yellow, or Cirrus, on a future trip to Sydney?

Bentley Restaurant + Bar
https://www.bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au/bentley-restaurant-bar
27 O’Connell Street, Sydney
(02) 8214 0505
Dinner Tues – Sat; Lunch Thurs & Fri
info@thebentley.com.au

O.MY – Beaconsfield, Melbourne – Saturday 29 July 2023 – Dinner
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O.MY – Beaconsfield, Melbourne – Saturday 29 July 2023 – Dinner

Passion is an overwhelming attribute of exceptional people. In the everyday, most people find their passion in their hobbies. Tonight at O.MY it shines through our conversation with wine waiter, and part owner, Chayse Bertoncello, just as it has the past times we have dined here.

Proudly overlooking this spendid dining room, his brother Blayne creates a menu that has always made sense to my tastes, but has been revelatory in its depth of detail, and connection to the O.MY ethos. That ethos is all about sustainabilty and honouring the surrounding area, without any compromise on flavour; only enhancement.

I should emphasise a complete lack of snobbery at this award winning restaurant; the team creates an interaction that is down to earth. When you have passion for what you do, it shows through the experience; on the plate, and in the glass.

Tonight, we are at the new address for the first time, the restaurant having moved close by after a fire. I love the setting of the small dining room, getting a feeling I had years ago at Orana in Adelaide. From our corner near the bar, we are overlooking the chef’s plating bench, and the other tables in the restaurant, on a large blonde wood table that allows us to sit close together, enjoying the space that fine dining should allow. 

Contrasting the light wood, is the darker furnished dining room, with a dark shadow curtain cutting off the main road outside. While we enjoy our cockails, mine a Manhattan nicely mixed by the bar, a flash of colour appears on the table, with the opening dish showcasing a dozen floral ingredients, housed in a comforting spring roll smelling fried pastry, with buttermilk bringing it together.

We are at the beginning of the longer tasting menu. One of the highlights is a dish we are familiar with from a previous experience, with Jerusalem artichokes coming together beautifully, cooked or prepared several ways. It is the only repeat performance, but an almighty one. The flavours exhibited by roasting, and pickling in particular, brought together with a gorgeous puree, is something special.

One of the many dishes I tried for the first time is the rock flathead, served raw, with trout caviar, finger lime, julienne radishes, and a garlic buttermilk sauce. I savoured every single bite. Earlier, tempura like (sourdough culture) vegetables from the farm, including an unusual but tasty melon/cucumber, and pumpkin skin, gave an indication of the technique on display by the kitchen.

With Catherine’s gluten intolerance, one dish that had us planning some piracy in our own kitchen is the cabbage taco, which was one of her stand-outs. Showcasing the variety of the farm, several types of cabbages (brassicas), and leaves combine to form a light and interesting taco, with the charring of the cabbage leaf adding to the familiarity. 

Another serious highlight cleverly brought together cauliflower using several techniques, with a deep chicken jus, making it feel like a traditional roast dinner. Just prior we enjoyed celeriac, cut like rissoni, topped with black truffle in a flavoursome sauce, as the kitchen’s take on risotto.

We were on the home stretch of this inventive menu, with one last savoury course, plus two desserts to come. Locally sourced beef is slow cooked as a ragout, and covered in a delightfully bright green broccoli, with sweet pickled broccoli stalk, and broccoli puree as the middle layer. Combined with the Bindi Pinot Noir from 2022, you have matched juiciness, and soft sweet textures.

Two desserts is exactly what Catherine and I want from any tasting menu. The Meyer lemon number to begin is cute in its presentation, and delicious. The lemon creme fraiche has a balanced sweetness, with the granita providing a refreshing textural contrast.

The only critique of the finale is we could have eaten two! The almost pastry like pumpkin top is crisp, with the toasted meringue providing pillowy perfection, and Kei apple providing balance.

I would say wine service is serious business here, but the seriousness is left behind-the-scenes with the professional and diligent approach, as opposed to any fanfare at the table. Chayse sources locally as far as possible, and normally has a story or two behind the choice of drink for any particular dish. It would be remiss to not mention our other waitperson from the US, is also skilled on the wine matches, and characteristics exhibited by the offerings tonight.

One of the highlight wines tonight, besides the pinot, was the Yarra Valley Salo Chardonnay, which ticks Catherine’s boxes with its depth, balance, and texture. It shows elegance, and complexity, and I had to have a glass of my own having tried Catherine’s. Similarly named, and the same variety, the La Ferme De Sato Chardonnay from Central Otago in New Zealand is a special find too.

The passion is still there for the Bertoncello’s and their team, and I desperately hope it continues because O.MY is a special restaurant in every sense of the word. The clear comfort displayed in the offering is a true indication of talent and dedication, and there’s so much to like about that combination.

O.MY
https://www.omyrestaurant.com.au/
70 Princes Hwy, Beaconsfield
Dinner Thurs – Sun; Lunch Sat and Sun
+61 (3) 97699000
info@omyrestaurant.com.au

Plus – earlier review from 2016

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Tedesca Osteria – Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula – Monday 7 November 2022 – Lunch

The plaudits have come from seemingly everywhere for a relatively new destination restaurant, with attached accommodation, a leisurely hour or so drive from Melbourne. As with many acclaimed venues, the reasons are somewhat intangible. Sure there must be magnificent food (and wine), service, atmosphere, and environment, but there is often something else that adds the bow needed to be truly great.

Here at Tedesca Osteria, Graceburn House, and our accommodation for the evening, Glasshouse, there is a quality that I need to spend time articulating. Saying there is a friendliness that only the country can provide is too simple. Saying Bridgitte Hafner’s cooking is stunning is true, but her food has been exceptional far earlier in her career than this latest venture, including at a pop-up which gave some indication of her future intentions back in 2015 at Avani Winery. The feeling in the dining room is not uncommon in country dining settings either. Certainly, the majority (if not everyone) in this room is here to have a wonderful long lunch in very capable hands.

It is fair to say there is no fussing in this entire dining room, and zero stuffiness, which naturally puts you at ease. It does mean to not expect incredibly attentive service, but you are not looking around for long, and requests are never met with any resistance. As an example, a few months ago when booking we passed on Catherine’s gluten intolerance. While the staff didn’t openly say they had it noted down, when Catherine mentioned it, they also didn’t make her feel uncomfortable. It was remembered throughout the service, including serving the seafood minus pasta because it sounded so great as a dish and she told our waitperson she didn’t want to miss out.

There is an extensive cellar and the wine knowledge of the waitstaff is impressive. Towards the end as I looked to pair a red with the suckling lamb course, although it was a little heavier on tannins, the fact I was interested in the Dolcetto d’Alba was encouraged by our waitperson. I liked this style where you are assisted to make a decision without feeling obliged to follow one person’s opinion, and actually guided to go with your gut. There was zero upselling.

As you are introduced to the restaurant there is a playful statement that acts partly as a warning, “lunch will last around three and a half hours”. The staff knowing we are staying the night surely helped, but no doubt you cannot finish lunch in less than two and a half hours and we went for four! So playful yes, but true, definitely. Even with our free flowing conversation we did sometimes pause and say “I wonder when the next course is” and it normally arrived momentarily, as if the staff were listening out (but I trust they were not). The utterly delicious bite of a “zeppola”, with the most incredibly pronounced anchovy encapsulated in the Italian deep fried pastry, is not followed immediately with the snacks course, so we enjoy sipping on our Diebolt-Vallois Blanc de Blancs Prestige NV. The champagne is impressive, and the first time we have tried this House.

After a leisurely wait, the snacks come out in all their glory. The Cypriot pita with pumpkin and cinnamon is my favourite for its depth of flavour, and delicate exterior, but everything is delicious with the focaccia really accentuating the various dips and sauces. While the carrots and artichokes straight out of the extensive restaurant garden are delightful, the grilled octopus wows with its perfect texture that is a pleasure to eat.

This is the kind of restaurant that you cannot help walk around and look at the art, and take a deep breath outside of the fresh Red Hill air. On our way outside earlier we caught more than a glimpse of the pasta (sorpresine) which look like tortellini but without any filling. This is served as our next course with king prawns and mussels in an elegant and flavoursome crustacean and romesco broth. What a revelation this dish is to me. Having grown up with loaded “spaghetti marinara” from South Terrace in Fremantle which had the elegance of a sledgehammer, this pasta and seafood from Tedesca is easily the best, and perfectly restrained version I have ever eaten. I openly told the waitstaff that I was thinking of licking the bowl but showed the same restraint the kitchen must to not overdo this dish.

As if knowing the follow up is as important as the star dish (in my opinion), the Bowen coral trout comes out looking like a starlet too. Oh my this is about as good as a little fillet of fish gets. The charred spring onion sauce and pickled shiitakes are terrific too, but nothing takes away the limelight from the trout. We are nearing the end of our Moorooduc Estate Robinson Chardonnay, which has turned out to be a nice selection from a nearby vineyard. It is a premium offering by Moorooduc which is a winery I’ve now had two outstanding bottles from in as many weeks (the other a Pinot Noir at Aru).

I’m now on to the Dolcetto d’Alba (E. Pira by Chaira Boschis) and while the waitperson was right that it is a touch tannic for the suckling lamb, I’m glad I tried it. The lamb is another excellent dish, but I cannot help but think the serving size is to accommodate far bigger eaters than Catherine and I. You don’t get tasty lamb with chickpeas and chorizo often, so we managed to finish every last mouthful in any case. The side salad is also completely finished, suggesting it is far better than average, with the orange really lifting it.

With Catherine’s fresh mint tea, and my coffee ordered, dessert arrived and whilst more petite than our final savoury course, the torte with a filling of rhubarb, strawberries, and fig leaf ice cream, was a tremendous finish to an utterly superb meal. We had nowhere to be except Glasshouse next door to relax for the evening (and enjoy our charcuterie platter we ordered too; post bath!) A long, leisurely, luxurious lunch left us with lasting memories, plans to come back with a group (perhaps in the private room for twelve), and a rather full belly. Monday has never been so good.

Tedesca Osteria (and Graceburn)
1175 Mornington Flinders Road, Red Hill
https://www.tedesca.com.au/
bookings@tedesca.com.au

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Attica – Ripponlea – Saturday 30 July 2022 – Dinner

Our third time in the hallowed dining room of Attica feels more comfortable. We know certain aspects will take care of themselves. The heights of attentive service are assured, and we have already long since paid for the food, which is required upon booking.

Whilst comfortable, there is certainly no feeling of “been there; done that” whatsoever. Part of the script is to continue to evolve and change, and the native Australian ingredients are probably no more prevalent in everyday dining than they were the last time we dined here in 2016. There is always intrigue in the dishes to come.

As I write, I realise that already more than three weeks has passed since our experience, and yet much of it is more vivid than normal dining, because it is so unique. Four hours passes effortlessly, with the only confrontation the occasional ingredient which especially puts Catherine on the back foot.

An example is the parfait, which in this case lives up to its French meaning. You don’t need to look far to find someone who is a bit hesitant to eat liver. So what’s the consensus on Emu liver? Utterly exceptional and my favourite dish of the evening!

The wine is delightful throughout the evening, but the kitchen remains easily the star of the show, and there is some theatre here. Later in the evening, the now usual foray into the back courtyard reveals a camp setting this time around, with the most delicious Basque cheesecake our first dessert. Cooked over the fire, it is still semi-molten, and lives in my memory so vividly I can almost taste it.

Crocodile ribs appeal in a manner hard to imagine. The look, texture, and taste, with the barbeque used to compelling effect, is just really cool. It’s a dish served early on, but I’m not pacing myself tonight, and every piece of flesh is valuable. The wattle dahl is just the same. I’m not leaving a trace.

The final savoury course is another winner, but it is difficult to pick my favourites after the parfait. Here we have a skewer of delicately treated kangaroo, served with frites, béarnaise (Aussie style with local thyme), and a rich pepper sauce too. There’s a spray bottle of vinegar for the frites for obvious reasons. It is so very good. My wish is that in some later stage of life we go to the local pub for kangaroo almost this good, instead of cow.

From interesting, difficult to ordinarily obtain Rose Champagne by Pierre Paillard, to 2013 Lethbridge ‘Allegra’ Chardonnay, to 2021 Jasper Hill Shiraz, there is exceptional wine by the glass to suit any palate, and it is possible to have glasses for less than $20 if you like, or even to try some half glasses. The sommerlier does a superb job, and assisted us several times. Showing an interest always helps.

Attica is expensive. It is a tribute to the restaurant that we’ve been three times and couldn’t imagine not continuing to go back. It is not comfort food, and does not remind us of travel and holidays. It does however make me somehow feel more connected with Australia. How beautiful that a New Zealander writes a menu, and his team execute it impeccably, and it takes you to a place you already live in.

Attica
74 Glen Eira Road, Ripponlea, Vic 3185
https://www.attica.com.au/
+61 9530 0111
meet@attica.com.au

Past reviews:
Attica in 2016
Expectations of Attica prior to our 2016 visit

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Audrey’s – Sorrento, Victoria – Friday 22 April 2022 – Dinner

We like to be organised and we are not huge risk takers when it comes to choosing a venue. As we walk through the plush surroundings of the newly renovated Continental in Sorrento we feel like astronauts in outer space. It almost is as if we are walking in moon boots.

To make matters more surreal, the first person we see at the pass is Scott Pickett. I’ve never met him, but having been to so many of his restaurants I can’t help but say “Scott” like an old friend and extend my hand. We explain that we really enjoy his menus, especially at Matilda, and that we were on the wait list tonight and got the call up only a few hours prior.

We were going to come to Audrey’s anyway, and try for the bar, but we really didn’t think we’d get in so our mindset was more fancy pub menu downstairs rather than a $150 per head tasting menu. Seated in a luxurious restaurant, Catherine on a gorgeous banquette, we are looking around like we had not seen a fine diner before.

We settle as we sip on our glasses of Tattinger Champagne and familiarise ourselves with the tasting menu to come. Snacks arrive in the form of bbq abalone, Coopers Island oysters with finger lime, and mussel escabeche. The abalone stands out for its boldness, avoiding its inherently chewy nature, showing real adventure by the kitchen.

As part of the snacks the baguette is also outstanding alongside three butter options. Next comes along the spanner crab crumpet. I have come to realise that an extremely large number of fine diners are serving spanner crab, and to be completely open, I will order it almost every time. The subtlety of the crab needs to be honoured, and in this case, while the crumpet is delicious, it is also delicate enough to not overpower. The eel reminds Catherine of our meals at Lake House. We are starting to relax on this adventure.

We are looking forward to a bit of a seafood extravaganza to come. For good measure we have thrown in the optional Great Ocean Road duck option later as a half serve each to try. The first of three seafood courses is delightful Yellowfin tuna under a sheet of glutinous shiso, with white radishes in the mix for both its flavour and texture.

By this stage we are enjoying a glass of Marc Rougeot-Dupin Bourgogne Chardonnay from Burgundy. Mornington Peninsula squid comes looking like finely handled fresh pasta. Alongside is the most deeply flavoured shiitake XO ragu, that is singularly incredible, but somehow enhanced with the squid. The combination shouts signature of the house for years to come, and perhaps is one to specifically ask for on future booking requests? Last of the seafood trio is King George whiting. Perfectly cooked, elegantly presented, this marriage of fish and butter sauce is long lasting and spectacular.

As we move to the duck I make sure I order the Eldridge Estate Pinot Noir quick smart. While there are mainly positives on the service, this is a restaurant in its infancy, with a lot of less experienced floor staff (though well trained and eager), and our first request for our second wine did go forgotten for our entire Yellowfin tuna course. Yes we are in Sorrento, but the tasting menu is expensive, so some minor critiques are not unreasonable. As the floor gets more used to the menu, and the expectations of guests, I expect their training and eagerness to translate to smoother service.

There is no critique regarding the duck from across the ditch mind you. The half serve is perfect for us with dessert and petit fours to come. Bathed in a good helping of flavoursome jus, and paired with cubes of golden plum, there is only contentment.

Lately I’ve found that restaurants are on script with dessert. The days of overly savoury offerings have subsided and dessert is once again a celebration of sweetness. Audrey’s vacherin of rhubard, apple and ginger, fits the modern script. It’s pretty, delicate, sweet, and nicely executed. Though petit fours in the form of jellies and truffles are definitely an indulgent treat in themselves, this dessert makes for a great ending to the main event.

There’s a feeling of excitement to have an opportunity to dine at Audrey’s at the last minute. There’s also a feeling of appreciation that what appears to be a powerhouse entertainment venue at the new Continental, also appears to have a marque dining venue that rivals anything on offer in the city. Maybe Society isn’t the biggest opening of the past 12 months afterall?

Audrey’s – https://thecontinentalsorrento.com.au/#audreys
1 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento
Lunch: Wed-Sun; Dinner: Thurs-Sat
+61359351250
bookings@thecontinentalsorrento.com.au

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Oakridge Estate – Yarra Valley – Saturday 13 November 2021 – Lunch

Put aside the logistical challenges with dining an hour from home, and from the time you come up the drive, there is nothing quite like lunch at a winery. The open spaces filled with leafy vines, the sense of calm, and the same air about the floorstaff. The feeling of privilege in being away from home.

Oakridge Estate epitomises this feeling. The expansive rectangular building with floor to ceiling windows running the length of the dining room, the space between the tables, and the restraint to focus on the view, are important elements in a superb dining experience. The food is exemplary, and the winery recently received Halliday’s Chardonnay of the year, so wine is covered with aplomb. Today, those elements share the limelight with service.

Accompanied by our little boy for an 11.45am lunch, we had a waitperson who was simply a star. Her demeanour, especially with Sydney, made our meal better in a way that is difficult to describe unless you have felt that pressure before. Dining with a toddler is neither an art or a science. It basically doesn’t work and there is no simple equation that offers a solution. Our waitperson navigated this imperfect situation, and went some ways to solving it.

The other element of service that I appreciated is the absence of any stuffiness, but the awareness of fine dining expectations, and when those expectations should be flexible. One aspect of good service that is often overlooked is the rule to not serve a course without all diners being at the table. Awareness by the diners can help, but I have often seen people get up at an inopportune time and the waitperson have to make a 180 degree turn back to the warmth of the pass. In our situation, Sydney needed to go to the toilet when entrees were close to being served. Another waitperson got to the table and realised, but assessing the situation decided to check with me before putting down the dishes. I made sure they were comfortable to break the rule on this occasion.

Fortunately the food and wine was equal to the standard of service. We began the lunch menu with a relaxed share course of salumi, pickles, and charred asparagus, with a healthy serving of sourdough, which set our appetite on its way. My quail and smoked bacon cannelloni then put an accent on presentation, with an interesting contrast of radicchio and nasturium to the softness of the cannelloni, and its subtle filling, that grew on me to my last bite. Catherine’s gluten free option of Jerusalem artichokes with a nut puree, and smoked nuts, was on the other hand huge on flavour, and did have me a little jealous, despite the beauty of my dish.

For mains I chose the kangaroo loin, topped with a thin slither of kohlrabi, drizzled in a sauce, and accompanied by saltbush and cherries. It was perfectly cooked, and technically very well executed, but didn’t have quite the depth of flavour I’ve enjoyed in some kangaroo dishes. Again, Catherine’s rainbow trout stole the show, with another intense flavour offering consisting of a miso and smoked trout soy, with onion weed and sesame. Perfectly cooked trout has been on the menu several times when we have dined out lately and it has been, on each occasion, a big winner.

Catherine had the lead but I paired it back somewhat with dessert. My meyer lemon tart with burnt fennel, whey and honey, was pure delight. Perfect technique, and just the right amount of sweetness, were evident in this delicious dessert. The brie icecream, beautifully presented on a disc of chopped strawberries, with pinot vincotto and lemon thyme, was a terrific dessert too though.

Knowing (having asked) that we could take home the residual of a bottle of wine here, we chose to invest in the 2018 864 Block Chardonnay (that won the Halliday award) and we were pleased we did through lunch, and even more as we shared a final glass back home. It has that wonderful balance of elegance and intensity, that I find can be a feature of great chardonnay. I also was recommended a glass of the Syrah for my kangaroo, which was perfectly matched, and also a tremendous soft expression of shiraz.

Having thought back to this lunch and the contrast with Levantine Hill, I’ve realised that service today, post our lockdowns and loss of great international staff, is even more key now. The competitive advantage of talent on the floor is far more pronounced. In Melbourne and surrounds it used to be taken for granted. Now you need to be weary. Oakridge delivered on all fronts and I can’t wait to visit again.

Oakridge Wines Cellar Door and Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Levantine Hill – Yarra Valley – Sunday 14 November 2021 – Lunch

There is no doubt in my mind that you can have a very enjoyable lunch, think you could return again in the future, but not recommend to others going in the first place. If you are confused that is my intention.

The situation is not complicated, but there are a series of levers that are pulling my thoughts on Levantine Hill in different directions. My conclusion, which I rarely begin with, is that this was a disappointing experience. Most of the elements that lead to this conclusion are quite distinct to each other.

Expense is something that I do not talk about in my writing, because I find it often is polarising, and rarely impacts my level of enjoyment of a meal. Here, the value is quite simply appalling. Yet I was so determined to try Levantine Hill that even after Catherine called the restaurant to confirm how the menu works, I insisted on going. Why was I so determined? I know Teage Ezard is no longer connected, but I was hoping his lengthy tenure would still be a creative influence.

There are different options, and a caution that this is better for groups from the outset. However, it was Catherine and me, along with our toddler. For $90 per person you get shared snacks, and the choice of two dishes. Given our penchant for dessert, this meant one main, with some additional sides, and dessert. Conservatively this meant our main was a $100 dish. It was not.

Before I get to the food, which was good to pleasant, with some particular highlights, the service from one of our waitpersons was a concern when contrasted with the prior day at Oakridge Estate. Unfortunately she was simply flat about being at work. Not rude, maybe a little abrupt, but simply not concerned with how our meal was. With a menu description of “Persian spice poached chicken, mushroom oil, barberries, broccolini, tahini labne” I wasn’t sure how the main would be presented so I asked “is there a lot of broccolini, or do you think we should order the salad as a side”. She said the broccolini was chopped up and there was a decent amount, but not a lot. What she didn’t say is that the poached chicken basically comes out as a salad. She allowed us to buy a side salad for a salad!

In a sense that is a pretty mild critique, but she also hit my chair countless times as she walked past the table, and eventually we did our best to interact with the other more attentive staff. One in particular was terrific and seemed to notice the level of our service was not acceptable at a high achieving restaurant. The main floor manager was also terrific and showed a lot more enthusiasm for our little boy, which is always a nice touch.

The poached chicken dish was pleasant but did lack the flavour intensity you would hope for. It was honestly quite akin to a cafe chicken salad. We had been told the fries were beer battered and intense, but not for Catherine who is less gluten tolerant, but I wanted them anyway. Again, in trying to be accommodating our waitperson brought more normal fries, but obviously hadn’t heard I wanted to try the others. It was innocent, but unattentive. She hadn’t mentioned a gluten-free option and we still paid the amount for the gangster fries that I never tried.

The snacks to begin were generous with delicious hummus, and a pomegranate drizzled labne. Normal and gluten-free bread for the table, olives, and some other offerings including cucumber with taromasalata, and a “chickpea crisp” which was a real highlight, showing the flavour intensity the kitchen had the ability to achieve. Slight touches again were missed, with no extra bread offered, even though we’d noticed most tables receiving it without even asking.

Perhaps we took too long with our snacks because, as the staff whisked our remaining dips away, we received our mains. Immediately. At exactly the same time. I’ve spoken about the chicken. Naturally we asked for a break before dessert, worried that our mains would be cleared and dessert would appear on the table simultaneously. We were offered a break, but reminded we needed to leave by 2pm. The question on our mind was if we had of selected the four courses how would we have eaten everything in a bit over two hours. It dawned on us that the staff were under pressure to get us to move on, and that is the only explanation why we would not receive a break at all between snacks and our main. It was not comfortable dining.

The hazelnut semifreddo, with rose water pastry, strawberries, honey roasted nuts, and white chocolate, was a fitting dish for a reputable dining destination. It was a sweet way to end proceedings, and again highlighted the flair of the kitchen. We’d had a break and could enjoy the dish, and relax a touch before we ventured back into the windy and rainy Sunday weather outside.

Through lunch I had really enjoyed the Levantine Hill Estate Pinot Noir, and in a serious bonus, was presented with a bottle for free, simply for paying with an Amex card! Catherine had a couple of glasses of the Katherine’s Paddock Chardonnay, which is their flagship, and it is an elegant, French leaning Chardonnay. The restaurant’s polished concrete floors, half barrel looking group tables, sleek design, and views out to helicopters landing for lunch, is quite stunning.

I can imagine others raving about their experience, which is why I might still return even if I can’t recommend this restaurant on my one experience. What I think might have tripped up the restaurant is the change to a Middle Eastern slant, and the format of the menu. I honestly do not think it fits at the moment. The comforting, sharing nature of this cuisine, cannot work with rushed dining, and the prices are extravagant for what you get. It is the first time in a very long time that I felt ripped off, and that was before the 15% on weekends and public holidays.

Levantine Hill Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Farmer’s Daughters – Melbourne, City – Friday 30 July 2021 – Dinner

At the age of 43 it is both exciting and terrifying to think I have hopefully at least this much longer to live. Somehow destiny has led to my work being at its busiest at the same time as my birthday each year. Coupled with long nights in a regional role, reporting to global leaders, by the time it comes around I feel twice my age. Instead of “queue the violins” I take solace that it is also a time of excessive celebration.

Tonight, Catherine has us booked into Farmer’s Daughters, where we have been trying to go for months, surviving two lockdowns in between. The only thing I want consistent tonight to the last time we indulged in the city is the pre-drinks at Bouvardia, and indeed this fine cocktail bar living up to the last time we were there. It is absolutely superb. Our fingers are crossed that this dinner that follows is superb too.

While it did take five minutes for us to be seated for our 9pm booking, we did have one of the great tables in the room on the restaurant level. You get a feeling about a place fairly quickly, in this case we were excited, with great initial interactions with the staff.

As it turns out, those initial interactions chartered a course for the rest of the evening, and it showed that service can still be terrific in Melbourne. Despite having wanted to visit Farmer’s Daughters for some time, I actually don’t know a great deal about the restaurant. What was quite obvious, looking at the wine list is that this is a restaurant that celebrates local.

Naturally this extends to the food. Farmer’s Daughters on the restaurant level has a tasting menu consisting of five courses. Whilst you get the menu at the end, the kitchen takes you on a journey of their choosing, subject to dietaries. At the moment, that journey is centred on Gippsland. Our starters, skewers of O’Connor beef, locally grown broccoli, romanesco and cauliflower, and beautifully untouched Lakes Entrance kingfish, were all tremendous and diverse examples of the wealth of local produce in this bountiful region of Victoria.

As Catherine enjoys her Frankland Estate Riesling (Great Southern), and I, my Purple Hen Fume Blanc (Phillip Island), we are served with a dish I’ve since heard is a consistent favourite, and for good reason. The baked Baw Baw Alpine trout, sitting in a shallow pool of mountain pepper cream, with trout caviar, is superb from the first taste to the last. The subtle balance of the flavours, and the soft textures, broken by bursts of caviar, is an outstanding dish. We saw it on the pass as we were guided to our table, and really couldn’t wait to try what we saw, as it is also visually appealing.

Showcasing the fresh produce of Gippsland, sugarloaf cabbage is served bathed in clam butter, with Snowy River Station seagrass. It is a thoughtful vegetable based course. By now we’ve moved on to two new white wines, with mine an Arneis by Adelina (Clare Valley) and Catherine the Cannibal Creek Chardonnay. The latter is another wine from Gippsland, and while not exclusively choosing local wines, the sommelier / wine service has done a terrific job of mixing interesting producers and varieties, and doing their best to also showcase the region where the food is centred.

Our next course of garfish from “Campfire Corner Inlet” is a bit chewy and not to everyone’s taste. Crusted in a Japanese spice mixture called shichimi, which adds great flavour, and served with Wattle Bank oyster mushrooms, replacing the fish with many others would make for a more pleasurable dish.

On the back of a lowlight, but not bad dish, the venison course again hit the high notes. From Terramirra Park, this venison almost melts in the mouth. Beetroot, smoked parsnip, and black garlic accompany to lift the dish even further, but honestly the venison could be served by itself and it would still be terrific. By this stage I’m drinking the Xavier Goodridge ‘Pa Pa’ Pinot Noir, another find from the riches of Gippsland, and life is very good indeed. The attentive wine service also pours me a half glass of the Sagratino/Mourvèdre that I was keen to try by Aphelion.

Service all round had been excellent, and there were few times we were looking around for want of anything. While our table made a big difference to our comfort, I felt that everywhere in the restaurant seemed equally well served. Add to the quality food and service, the whole setting from the expansive glass frontage to Exhibition Street, to the sleek beige interiors, is signalling a new sophistication coming to Melbourne dining.

Dessert is served and looks like a cross between a decadent creme biscuit and a macaron. This take on a pavlova with carob, macadamia and mandarin, has that post-crack give I like in a merengue, and enough sweetness to keep us happy. It’s clever, local, Australian themed, and a nice way to end a high quality and focussed offering from the kitchen.

Good looking spaces are sometimes easier to create from scratch than sketch out of the past. Farmer’s Daughters is a great demonstration of a purpose built restaurant with a local focus that doesn’t remove ingenuity but enhances the experience.

Farmer’s Daughters
95 Exhibition Street, Melbourne
https://www.farmersdaughters.com.au/
info@farmersdaughters.com.au
+61 3 9116 8682

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Paringa Estate – Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula – Saturday 28 December 2019 – Lunch

Looking across a vineyard. This is my type of view as the backdrop to a wonderful meal. Like the ocean, or any large body of water, rolling greenery will never get tired.

It just isn’t possible to have a meal like this in the city. So while the prices are not cheap by any means, they are not inflated by the beauty of the vines, which came along far earlier. Today the logistics are in our favour because we are staying in an Airbnb close by, which also happens to be close to Nonna’s place for our little boy to be taken care of. It’s time to relax over a five course tasting menu at Paringa Estate.

Paringa has been one of the best wineries in the Mornington Peninsula region for many years, and the restaurant has gone from strength to strength. Catherine dined here with family a few years ago, and I’ve wanted to give it a try for myself ever since. With restaurants like Laura, Port Phillip and Kooyong Estate, Doot Doot Doot and sibling Rare Hare in the area, you need to be very good to figure. There are several others too, not to mention Ten Minutes By Tractor whose return is eagerly awaited.

Vegemite scrolls, and pigs in blanket

The city boy novelty of dining at a winery is only maintained when the food (and wine) are matched or bettered by the view. Delicious snacks act as reminders of not taking dining here too seriously, with a vegemite scroll, a pig in blanket (prosciutto with a fig filling), and “green eggs and ham”, also hinting at the strength of the food to come.

Green eggs and ham

Simon Tarlington’s version of Surf & Turf presents mussels topped with thinly cut corned wagyu. It is unexpectedly subtle, allowing the mussels to share the limelight with the wagyu.

Paringa ‘Surf & Turf’

Next we have a dish presented where the components are bursting from the plate. It could be an Olympic dish for the Australian’s with its green and gold flourishing from the use of asparagus and nasturtiums on the one hand; and lemon and egg on the other. While lemon hollandaise is a classic combination, the sweetness here was a little too much for me by the end, but Catherine was a big fan of the almost lemon curd like sauce.

Local Asparagus, Egg, Lemon, Almonds

By now we were finishing our initial glasses of white, having begun with a lesser known, but gorgeous champagne called ‘Esprit Nature’ by Giraud. Catherine’s flagship Paringa Single Vineyard Chardonnay is an excellent expression of the variety, and of what Mornington can produce. My Viognier is not one of the main Mornington varietals, but does have plenty of polish itself, and works well with its versatility. Next we tried the flagship Paringa Single Vineyard Pinot Noir. With both the lamb and duck courses to come we were enjoying a wine to behold, again a tradition of the region, and one which has been slowly coming closer to the top echelon with each year that passes.

Otway Ranges Lamb, Peas, Beans, Native Leaves

The lamb I’m speaking of is from the Otway Ranges, and is served with peas, beans and native leaves. The broth again shows subtlety, siding with the nicely cooked lamb well, and is added to by the fresh large peas that are a delight. It is delicate. The kind of dish that you want to go hand in hand with a great wine.

Mount Macedon Duck, Tomato, Cherry, Native Pepper

Another step in the flavour profile is added with the duck from Mount Macedon, which has skin to die for with the native pepper put to good effect. I can give or take the acidity in the tomato (which has been peeled!), but the sweetness in the cherry is the right stuff, and the sauce brings it together wonderfully. Again, not overdoing the number of components allows the wine to become an important element. It is impressive.

Meredith Sheep Yoghurt, Verjuice, Honeycomb, Plum

Being a fan of sweeter and/or chocolate desserts, seeing the description of our sweet course didn’t fill me with excitement, but honeycomb is something I love so all was not lost. I am glad I was wrong. At the end of a tasting menu, with a lot of great and complex dishes, having a soft dessert with flavoursome elements was a great way to finish. The verjuice used as a broth a nice touch, bringing grapes back into the picture. The restaurant should, however, consider some petit fours to finish, that could give sweeter-tooths a bit more sugar.

All along service had the usual semi-country charm. It was not perfectly attentive, but it was friendly and professional enough to meet the mark. The sommelier today (Nick) was particularly helpful and fun, enjoying a chat about the wines and the history of Paringa, which always adds something to a winery visit. He works the cellar door tastings too, and would be an excellent host.

While the expense doesn’t make Paringa accessible frequently, it is an exceptional place to spend an afternoon overlooking the vines, and eating and drinking some of the best quality there is on offer on the Peninsula.

Paringa Estate Winery & Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato