Coral Trout

Bentley Restaurant + Bar – Sydney City – Tuesday 6 June 2023 – Dinner
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Bentley Restaurant + Bar – Sydney City – Tuesday 6 June 2023 – Dinner

It doesn’t matter how much I love an experience at an expensive restaurant, the chances of me going back are slim because of my propensity to try something new. As I approach Bentley Restaurant + Bar, the question is have I ever really been here?

In a different building, in a different suburb, with a distinctly different feel, the past decade (and a bit) since I have been here must have some stories behind it. Some aspects are similar with a seven course menu offered, and the same team behind the food and wine leadership. It goes to show how important the brains behind a restaurant are, and the ability to change and adapt to a restaurant scene that is incredibly demanding.

I didn’t see Sydney during the pandemic; it was hard enough to leave my postcode in Melbourne! As Vivid Sydney goes on in the background, there is no obvious impact of the pandemic in the numbers moving around the CBD, or in this dark, restrained, dining room.

Dining alone, and not being a huge eater, I decide on the three course menu (plus snacks, and petit four for good measure) at $150. For me, the amount of food is more than enough, and the variety is superb. But let’s start with the wine given the long time celebrity of Nick Hildebrandt’s wine lists.

Exceeding my lofty expectations, I drank extremely well tonight, and took home some extra knowledge too. In particular my extra learnings about the Savoie region of south eastern France, with its tiny plots, and particular love of wines made from the Altesse / Roussette white grape. The 2020 Maison Bonnard ‘De Montagnieu’ Roussette is stunning, and from my searches since is clearly a wine that is difficult (not impossible) to put on a list (or find for home!)

Not to be completely outdone, the 2015 Keith Tullock ‘Museum Release’ Semillon, grabs me on the list of white wines by the glass. Aged Hunter Semillon is a thing for a reason, and I think should be an option at more bars and restaurants. Later with my pork neck, the 2022 Murdoch Hill ‘Vis-A-Vis’ Cabernet Franc from the Adelaide Hills is a wonderful demonstration of a varietal that too often is smothered by Cab Sauv. As another option, a Dolcetto d’Alba was also provided to taste, which was a nice touch.

Speaking of the pork neck, it comes from Bangalow, served very generously with an unusual Chinese lettuce called “celtuce” with a macadamia puree. The pork neck is strong and rich, cooked delicately. I find myself going for some of the celtuce with each bite to temper the indulgent neck, and the macadamia allows some complimentary softness.

Earlier I’d started with snacks that were mainly superb. In particular the tender kangaroo striploin could be served at the end of a banquet and you’d still want more, and more. The tiger prawn, finger lime, and grilled hispi (cabbage), combination is also delightful. On the flipside, I didn’t appreciate the pearl meat, which may be an acquired taste. It was definitely enhanced by the charred grape underneath, but it was the lowlight of my entire meal.

In between the snacks and pork neck, coral trout is barely touched, prettily sitting in a disk with bright orange roe, and a jamon broth surrounding. Helped along by the Savoie, I enjoyed the combination of flavours, but found myself wanting for some contrasting texture towards the final bites.

Wait service, especially wine service, had been great through the evening. The dining room is full, but nicely spaced, and there are diverse groups, including some young adults with their parents (lucky things!) There is nothing awkward about dining alone, and gladly the staff do not try to compensate by spending more time at my table than others.

For dessert I am served the liquorice custard. Inside is white chocolate and mandarin. Here the softness makes complete sense; the sweetness is balanced; and the flavours all work with each other. Even better is the cold petit four following. When has ice cream covered in chocolate ever been passe?

I’m back at Bentley after a long time and just like the last time I want to come back again. It’s when not if, but with so many offerings in the stable of Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrand the question is whether I will make it before I try Monopole, Yellow, or Cirrus, on a future trip to Sydney?

Bentley Restaurant + Bar
https://www.bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au/bentley-restaurant-bar
27 O’Connell Street, Sydney
(02) 8214 0505
Dinner Tues – Sat; Lunch Thurs & Fri
info@thebentley.com.au

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Ricky’s River Bar & Restaurant – Noosa – Thursday 25 May 2023 – Lunch

“I never watch the stars, there’s so much down here” is a lyric that has always grabbed me by Lorde. It’s not intuitive, especially since I love looking up at the stars on a clear, dark night, in the country air. In that relaxed, reflective mood, that you only achieve on holiday, I can start to see the point though.

When you are not religious, it can be particularly difficult to navigate the question of “what else?” In the same vein that there’s so much down here, so too are there little moments during your life where heaven is on earth. Perhaps I’m going too far, but for someone whose top hobbies include simply dining at a restaurant, if heaven is supposed to be some form of constant bliss, Ricky’s today is worthy of the afterlife.

On a truly beautiful day, our early lunch booking comes with a bonus as Sydney has fallen asleep as we approach the restaurant on foot. Ricky’s River Bar & Restaurant is right on the Noosa River, with a fitout that is as sleek as the view. Our waitperson is quirky, professional, and largely attentive, with some added touches for Syd that show thought and care is part of the script here. Now all we need is for three courses of great food and we are inside the pearly gates.

My freshly shucked oysters are a nice beginning, coming from South Australia. The scallops in their half shell with cauliflower puree, were good without being as juicy and succulent as you might hope for. However, the Mooloolaba king prawns were wonderful and fresh, beautifully cooked, and nicely paired with the flavoursome roasted cabbage.

There were two local white fish fillets on offer, with Catherine choosing the barramundi. My coral trout has that natural colour that makes presentation a breeze. It is perfectly cooked, sitting atop a celeriac puree, with charred leak, and asparagus to accompany. It’s not cheap, but it is a great piece of fish. With the same accompaniments, Catherine’s barramundi is just as well looked after by the chefs, and we are very pleased with our mains.

We are two very dessert oriented people, and often we find it difficult for the sweet course to equal, or even top the savouries. Here it was a tough call, as the passionfruit soufflé could not have been better executed, and the poached pears and Maravista honey cake, were absolutely superb ways to finish.

Did we linger? Absolutely! We’d started with some subtle but enjoyable cockails (Goodtime is a soft gin, Campri, grapefruit and thyme syrup combination; and I had a Blood Orange Margarita). We then moved into a Clare Valley Riesling by Carousal, and a Petit Chablis by Gueguen, before I finished with a Light Hand Chardonnay, and cleansing Land & Sea Juicebox IPA for good measure.

It wasn’t that this was the best meal of our lives, but it was delightful. It felt like everything came together perfectly, and even though the dining room was effectively full, the spacing of the tables, and the expansive view, made us feel like we had the restaurant to ourselves. It also helped that there was a quiet confidence about the floorstaff, as there should be, with such an impeccable offering.

Ricky’s River Bar & Restaurant
https://www.rickys.com.au/
2 Quamby Place, Noosa Heads
Open Wed to Sun 12pm to late
+61 7 5447 2455