Winery / Modern Australian
The Swan Valley is a special place to me. As a much younger man there were regular trips to a part of Perth that is seriously under utilised and appreciated. There were some nicer wineries back then, and a generally approachable wine industry that had time to chat, and offer a generous tasting pour.
I haven’t been wine tasting here in years, but driving past places like Talijancich brings fond memories of discovery. The associated price differential to Margaret River was stark, and continues to be. A few weddings I’ve been to out here, for some of my closest friends, have been events that feel like I’m much further out of the city. There is simply nothing to not like about the Valley.
Lamonts was the first meal out here that I can vividly remember. I enjoyed olives for the first time. Diverse varieties and sizes marinated together, gently warmed in high quality olive oil. Life changing. Then there is Houghton’s. An afternoon here is a natural relaxant. Its flagship Jack Mann is a wine I love so much that it was the red for the bridal table at our wedding.
It’s been almost a year since I saw my Mum. Part of catching up is the drive and chat. The Swan Valley and the half an hour drive is perfect. All we need now is a comfortable restaurant to while the afternoon away. Oscar’s in the Valley hopefully will deliver.
Looking at the menu two things stand out. There are a lot of different dishes; they all sound delightful. Taking the balance of trying a few things but not leaving too much food behind, we settle on scallops and crab as our entrees, and the roast Berkshire pork for our main. What could go wrong with these tremendous proteins?
Absolutely nothing. Describing the crab as completely wonderful, I’m not sure how to describe the scallops except to say they are even better. The Blue Swimmer crab flesh has been removed, but kept in good sized chunks to allow the subtle flavour to penetrate through the dish, the grape standing out as a nice ingredient to combine with. Continuing a recent love affair with corn, the Abrolhos Island scallops combine beautifully too, but the depth of flavour partly from the caramelisation, is extraordinary.
I’m enjoying a glass of John Kosovich Chenin Blanc with this immaculate food, and scraping the plate with house sourdough. Kosovich is one of my favourite producers in the Valley, so keeping on the theme I also choose their Malbec Petit Verdot next. Generously poured, I love the softness of this red. Next to the Beverley Berkshire Pork, also very generously served, it works well.
Beverley is a place my close friend from uni comes from, and I’m now close to his entire family. I played footy for Beverley in the couple of years leading up to moving to Melbourne, and the whole community is fantastic. Having just seen my friend and his family the day prior, I was glad Mum put in her vote for the delicious pork. Sides of dry aged roasted potatoes, and charred broccolini, felt like the perfect accompaniments, and they were both excellent in themselves, but even better with the pork.
Mum doesn’t always go for dessert, but Oscar’s had her curious for a try of the Eton Mess, and I was happy to share with dinner plans in the evening at Lulu keeping me sensible. I’ve always like the combination of crunch from the meringue and the cream in a mess, but here the lift comes from fresh fig and fig leaf, cutting through the dish superbly.
From the start, service had been knowledgeable in a way we didn’t expect. You could tell from the busy restaurant but calm floorstaff that they had their roles down pat, and we were impressed with those serving us today.
Just like several experiences in this area, Oscar’s left a lasting impression on me, and I have a feeling it will not be forgotten. Future visits seem inevitable, with great food and service, reasonable prices across the board including wine, and an area that is as conducive to a date as it is to a family get together.
