Very rarely do I go out to a restaurant without knowing the first thing about it. In this case, Catherine had long ago aimed to dine here, and I went in blind but confident. If there is anyone who can be trusted to find a great meal, it is my wife.
We arrive on the non-beach side of Cockburn Road, greeted by a beautiful heritage building, along with my Mum, Sher, Sue, and Heinz, who are all well dressed for a fancy meal. I had little idea, but catching up with my family in Perth is always exciting, and they do tend to dress well!
What I now know is Coogee Common has a garden surrounding the restaurant that provides much of what is utilised by the kitchen. There is certainly a bountiful array of fresh produce, and it is beautifully appointed in the creations of the chefs.
Seated at a large circular table with a terrific vantage point on the corner windows inside, we are beginning at 11.30am and for a moment have much of the restaurant to ourselves (but not for long). There’s plenty of room for the dishes we are about to share, and there’s plenty of time to catch up before we even think to order.
The wine list has the diversity you’d expect at a fine dining establishment, along with some delicous cocktails, and mocktails. Catherine really enjoyed her Spring Fling, and my first glass of wine, a Slate Farm Fiano from Clare Valley, shows vibrancy. My other taste is of the Montague Chardonnay from closer by in Margaret River. For me this is a lesser known producer, highlighting the intelligent building of the wine list with sensible points of difference.
It was tough to narrow down the food options, but with Catherine and Heinz’s help I eventually ordered for the table. I’d start with the highlights, but it was difficult to call out one or two dishes, as the quality across the board was outstanding. Perhaps the surprises are best to mention? The most exceptional dish in my mind was the beetroot salad. Not only superbly roasted (and pickled) by the kitchen, but fresh from the garden, the red beets in particular were some of the best you could hope for.
Almost on a par was the spice roasted carrots, which for me is often a vegetable hard to top. Earlier, gluten-free crispbread and a “garden dip”, along with prawn skewers, and pastrami, for the table, was all superb. The surprise was how delicious the jalapenos and other pickled vegetables tasted on the pastrami plate.
For the larger dishes we had a couple of fillets of snapper go around the table, and besides being perfectly cooked, the skin also remained crisp. I enjoyed the accompaniments, especially the addition of pine nuts and fennel, but Catherine did mention the skoralia (potato and garlic puree) was too strong for her. Lastly, the medium-rare steak was again showing the quality of the kitchen. Not a single mouthful was left, and we had enjoyed a lot of food. There may have been a battle to finish the seaweed and leek left on the plate, which is unique.
Throughout, service had been good, although I didn’t have a seat with a view to the floorstaff, so sometimes was searching for a wine. In comparison with other restaurants during our 12 days in Perth, and Rottnest, this was definitely far above the baseline on service.
For dessert we ended up getting a few, and none of us were disappointed, including Sydney with his chocolate ice cream. In fact, we were very pleased, with Mum even trying the vegan chocolate mousse and prickly pear sorbet and loving it, which is unusual because she rarely has dessert. As I earlier mentioned, fennel is one of my favourite ingredients, so the fennel ice cream grabbed me. Served with a white chocolate draped combination of ricotta and quince, this was a fine end to a terrific meal. Catherine’s pumpkin creme brûlée also tasted as good as it looked.
Garden to table dining is not new, but being so close to the city is novel. It’s exciting to see the risk that Coogee Common has taken, re-establishing a heritage property and planting an entire garden in 2018. Now it is paying dividends with the quality of the outcome. We’d love to be back here on our next visit to Perth.
It’s down the street. Back in the day I was here at least once a week for coffee and a croissant. The pandemic had its impact, but the strength of the team behind Frederic ensured the quality would be retained.
There is no good reason why I haven’t dedicated the time to review Frederic. Having eaten here multiple times, with Catherine, several others, and even by myself, I have always been impressed. Tonight we are here for a Saturday evening, and can have a lengthy experience.
We start out the front with a champagne. On weeknights there is a great special from 4-6pm. The street overlooks a car park along the railway tracks near Richmond station, and the back of the Precinct pub, but it is still cute, and tonight is a beautiful evening. When there’s big events there can be a great atmosphere on the pavement here.
Once seated we start strategising on the menu. As usual Catherine needs to pay extra attention to the gluten-free options. More and more it is becoming a positive reason for choosing one restaurant over another, but with good restaurants normally catering well to coeliacs and gluten-intolerant people, it is rarely a reason to not try a venue.
We skip the snacks, but choose an entree, main, and dessert. After some confusion about the vitello tonnato, which I really enjoyed, Catherine chose the burrata, which popped with freshness and brightness. Although not a textural clash, the delicious Chapoutier Marsanne 2019 is probably a better choice with the burrata, heirloom tomatoes, and peach. I was glad I tried it though. Catherine’s Petit Chablis by La Manufacture in Burgundy, was just as Petit Chablis should be, and its freshness matched her burrata nicely.
French bistro screams mains to me, and I’m happy enough to start here much of the time. The porterhouse cut by Vic Southern Ranges is grass fed, and beautifully medium rare, with shoestring fries, mustard, and chimichurri. While I’d probably prefer some béarnaise, there’s nothing else I would change about this dish, and it isn’t far above a decent quality pub steak price wise. The Maison Cassange et Vitailles Grenache Shiraz Cinsaut from Languedoc is a terrific red that matches the steak well.
Catherine’s baked rockling fillet is delightfully presented, scattered mussels generously adorn the splash of green around the yellow vadouvan curry sauce. I get the pleasure of a couple of tries and it is right up to my steak, and not without merit to suggest sharing the two on another occasion.
The menu caters to Catherine’s intolerance perfectly, and I must admit, I had not stopped to think that a soufflé’s base ingredients do not include any gluten. Today’s passionfruit version is perfectly executed, with the classic fluffiness that makes you feel like you could eat two!
Frederic is a comfortable place to relax over several courses. The quality of the food, and its plating, is the primary reason I keep coming back. It is hard to say it is suburban, but it is part of our suburb, and while the normal menus prices are not every day reasonable, there are plenty of specials during the week to capture regulars. Over the years it has certainly captured us plenty of times.
I am lucky that I have the opportunity to eat and drink at a lot of different venues. With a young boy, time has not however been on my side to write about each of those venues. With that in mind, I have been thinking about how I best document my culinary travels more regularly.
Don’t get me wrong. While I like sharing my travels, both locally and elsewhere, normally I am writing as much for me as a journal, as for anyone that comes across my writing, or some of my more regular readers.
As part of this, I haven’t decided yet how I’ll cover my experiences, and in what detail and completeness, but I’m looking forward to what eventuates. For this edition, I’m going to cover my main memories of December 2023, to early February 2024.
As always, please send through your questions and comments. I’m keen to have a dialogue, and would be happy to be recommended your favourite places, or hear about new venues.
My catch up with previous colleagues who are now close friends for pre-Christmas was at Yakimono, which offers an extraordinary lunch experience. At $66, Yakimono provides several diverse courses of Japanese tastes, plus 90 minutes of unlimited drinks!
My initial thought was that the drinks must be pretty basic, but in the end I was drinking decent prosecco, and a Bright Brewery lager, so that was a surprise. Others were enjoying the two cocktails on offer (one a Highball), or the equally decent white and red wine option. The staff were kind enough to pour our last glass with a minute to go of the 90, so they were not tight either.
The food is excellent, though those with larger appetites might be looking for an afternoon snack shortly following. Favourites like karage feature, along with some nice sushi, yakitori skewers, and several other dishes (all small) to share, plus a lot of edadame.
Just prior to entering Yakimono I got to try Lillian (front bar to Society, and connected to Yakimono by a lift). The olive martini here is a signature, and is utterly exceptional to the point I have brought it up in conversation several times since. The focus in this relatively straightforward cocktail is tremendous, with an olive oil infused vermouth, and the use of the Four Pillars olive gin (that I love). The extra olives served on the side are a nice touch too.
Catherine and I were back at Etta recently, with another couple, Downesy and Lisa. There was a new menu, and the main waitperson assisting us was not knowledgeable enough yet on it, meaning our service experience was not as strong as the food coming out of the kitchen. From Catherine’s gluten intolerant perspective it was a shame that several dishes still on the menu now had the addition of gluten (without any taste difference in my opinion, especially on the already delicious crispy rice).
The tuna crudo was great, but not as good as the last version. The abalone skewer is still one of the best snacks I’ve eaten, and is unmissable, but I’m told the scallop is just as superb. Our larger plates, in particular the lamb, were beautifully executed. In between the crispy duck is new to the menu, and anyone who enjoys duck should be eating this.
The let down is the two dessert choices, which for such an impressive dining experience, ends with a whimper. The olive oil cake was nice, but not as consistent as the last time I tried it. These things can happen early in the year so it doesn’t turn me off at all, but at a minimum there really should be one more choice.
The second experience I’ve had here, and it is one I enjoyed enough to write about. My review is on benleekong.com but as a summary I find Donna Maria to be one of the best restaurants on the Peninsula. The main difference is that unlike many of the winery restaurants, it is more of a dinner destination, and on the main strip of a town. The pasta is the primary reason for coming, with a good wine by the glass list. I should say for completeness that service is a laid back Italian/country style, which is entirely consistent with an Italian restaurant in regional Victoria, but at the prices some may expect a little more.
It’s been a while now since an early December outing to Northcote to catch up with one of my best mates for some bread and wine, and later negronis!
I really enjoyed Gray and Gray, and have since written about the experience. It is not your classic wine bar with food, but it is not uncomfortably different. My only regret is not living closer, which would allow me to visit more often and sample some more of the diverse wines on offer.
We have fond memories of Butcher’s Diner. It is the late night place of our first meal post the birth of our boy Sydney, with its proximity to Epworth Freemasons being the key! Tonight we were back, prior to a gig at The Forum for Milky Chance, which was superb by the way.
These days Catherine was forced to change to a gluten-free diet, so the main change is the lettuce bun. The burger is great, which has consistently been the case for years, and the chips are fresh. This is a terrific spot to have on your list as it is reasonably priced, operates 24 hours, and maintains good standards. The half bottles at reasonable prices are cute, and perfect for a quick dinner.
Little Lon is in a cute spot near Little Lonsdale Street on the eastern side of the city near Spring Street. The heritage building holding the bar is tiny, and most enjoying the drinks and snacks are seated outside. They have a stable of gins, and make a nice non-traditional negroni. Catherine’s peach fizz was delicious, with the right balance of booze.
The suburban cellar door and restaurant of Jamsheed is incredibly charming. One unplanned afternoon saw Catherine, Sydney, and I, rock up post a day at the beach. The entree style share dishes we tried were first rate, and the wines here are very well made. With a gathering in mind in coming days we grabbed a few bottles and were on our way, but not before playing some pool and hungry hippos with Syd upstairs!
Another adventure day during this up and down Melbourne summer saw us driving east in search of a pool. Having earlier decided on the wave pool at Glen Waverley that we frequent, we deviated having come across a nice kids pool at Ashburton, although with no waves. It was a bonus because we wanted to try Mr Burton.
With the sun in the courtyard not biting too much, on a table in a busy cafe that was only partially covered, we enjoyed our experience. Catherine and Syd enjoyed their juice and smoothy, and breakfast was nice. When compared to some cafes closer to our home in Cremorne, it would be a stretch to make this a cafe we’d travel to (as we often do to places like General Food Store, Red Door Corner Store, or Mr Hendricks when it was better back in the day).
It has been a very long time between visits, but I’ve always enjoyed Wide Open Road (my review from 2015 here). Today the cafe fare is excellent, especially the presentation on Catherine’s thyme roasted field mushrooms, topped with fried enoki mushrooms. As cafe fronts for roasters should be, this is exceptional coffee, and is worth the trip out to Brunswick.
The old Ladro is still very strong on the pizza game, and has become one of Catherine’s favourites for gluten-free bases. I first went here with my old work friends, and the pre-drink out the front was a big part of the attraction. On this occasion we were seated out the front, and enjoyed the pizza as usual. The bar does a good job, and we’ll keep coming back.
If the Mitre Tavern is a city slicker’s gentleman’s steakhouse, The Railway Club Hotel is the blokes version. It is clean and tidy, but the fit out is from another time, and all the fuss is about the steaks, which on this occasion (and several others) are fantastic. The special today with béarnaise, potato gratin, and a pear and walnut salad, is attractive enough for most of the table to order. The wine list is more akin to a suburban pub, than a quality steak restaurant, but on the positive side there is a TAB in the front bar, and plenty of outdoor space for nice days.
A recent catch up that would normally be at the Cherry Tree Hotel, turned into a sticky-beak at the new Fox Friday in Richmond, described as a “Tap House”. I haven’t yet eaten here, but from the look of the food and the crowd, I’ll be back to try. There are about a dozen beers on tap, and plenty of other options, so it is not playing the exclusivity type game. The fit out is interesting. It is very nicely done, out of the usual disused warehouse, but unlike many other brewhouses it has been kept to a reasonable size, giving it some intimacy in comparison. The vibe, and the beers, are compelling.
Santoni has been a go-to pizza place for a group of us who used to work nearby in Richmond. The staple remains a good quality pizza for lunch. What is unfortunate is the price these days. To start, I looked up the bottle of rose we ordered and it was a 300% mark-up, which is outrageous (and $16 a glass to boot which is only another half glass shy of a bottle). And on top of that, the pizza starts at $27 for a simple Margherita (with an extra $7 if you happen to require gluten-free). I’m not someone who goes out of my way to make price comparisons, but when you have the option to instead go to Rossi (see above) for a Margherita at $22 (+$4 GF) and the rose is at 225% (still not great), the choice is simple.
There is tonic in the act of a dining experience. For Catherine and I, it is well understood, but not formally written, that we need some time to eat, drink, and discuss – to live. Sometimes we don’t have that opportunity, and it is tough.
The find of Donna Maria is attributed to me from many years ago, but it is Catherine who has been multiple times to the stable of Donna Maria, Bistro Elba, and Patsy’s. While I did the discovering, every one of my experiences has had our little boy feature at various ages, and maybe feature a little too much. Sydney is the light of our lives, but some meals need Catherine supervising me, instead of our other little man!
So it has been a lengthy period of time before Catherine and I could finally experience one of these restaurants on our own, as they continue to build in reputation. This evening, we arrive at 6pm and leave just before 9pm, and it is a terrific few hours. Christmas has the frivolity, the wonder of the little ones, and the excitement of a big day. This evening, two adults who have been doing their best at bringing up a four year old, need some serious time to themselves, post a hectic few festive days!
The set three (or four) course menu for a few busy weeks of summer makes complete sense, and is an oasis for us. With plenty of gluten-free options, Catherine has the rare opportunity to actually choose her adventure, and I am pleased that her adventure doesn’t feature my preferences, allowing double the tasting. As we sip our Bellini, and Coravin poured Fiano, our beautifully presented entrees arrive.
Catherine’s snapper crudo with Warragul greens (succulents) and salmon roe, is akin to the flavour of oysters, so you need to be into your seafood to enjoy. I’m a fan, but my risotto, with local broad beans is a winner. A delicate extra virgin olive oil surrounds the perfectly al dente rice, toasted pine nuts, and large slivers of garlic.
Next, as I go from a delicious Stonier Chardonnay, to an even more enticing Montepulciano, we have our mains. Mine is the Osso Bucco pappardelle, which might seem an odd choice in late December, but perfectly goes with the recent crazy cool, and often wet weather, pairing delightfully with the red. Catherine’s skull prawns with the gluten-free pasta, njuda, and ricotta, has depth of flavour, and is well executed.
We asked for a wait on dessert, and we got one, because the semi-freddo was not yet available. However, the switcheroo for Catherine involved the pistachio and olive oil cake, which whilst presented looking like a burger patty with ice cream, was a sweet and enticing dessert. Equal to the task, my bombolini was exquisite with sweetness personified, and a good slather of ice cream too. We were very pleased.
Service had a lot of familiarity to it, because either here, or at sister venues, we had met many of the same waitstaff. In classic Italian style they are doing a nice enough job, with some charisma, and zero stuffiness. Just the way you like it when in Flinders, on the beautiful Mornington Peninsula. Salute!
As a professional, I find the outside of Gray and Gray entirely cute, and somehow inviting. An oasis for professionals in Northcote, this is not. A great venue to catch up and enjoy some diverse wines, and slightly familiar but not familiar dishes, this is. The signage is an ode to the previous occupant which appears to be a barrister perhaps.
I’m on a man-date with my mate Trav, and we have had a warm up at The Peacock, which is worthy of more than a sticky beak. Our little high table is cute too. Is there a theme?
Unusually, Ben Haines Chardonnay sits atop of the list of whites by the bottle, and I am sold knowing how good this vigneron is. The wine itself is balanced perfectly with subtle okay treatment, and equally subtle but knowing fruit. Trav has already spotted a Hungarian red that is sure to come next.
We began the food proceedings with a pork skewer each, and some sauerkraut, which combined deliciously. Having looked at the brief menu and considered our options, we thought taking advantage of a number of the meat options suited us, but there were not many.
My choice dish to share came next in the form of blinis with a gorgeous whipped potato, and smoked eel concoction, dressed with salmon roe, chives, and kvas (a low alcohol traditional beverage made similar to beer from north-eastern Europe). Trav didn’t love it, but I was quite taken, grabbing more blinis than my fair share, and smothering them in the dip. It reminded me of the way I sometimes eat pate where the vessel operates to separate my hand from an intense amount of the main show.
As we began on our light Hungarian red, we were served with the khachapuri. Khachapuri is in very simple terms a Georgian pizza. I liken it more to an open calzone. With a kharcho (soup) braised pork and lamb combination, topped with pickled onions and herbs, I was enjoying both the familiarity, along with the difference. The light red only added interest with a slightly earthy nose, and some nice fruit to follow. The slight disappointment was the vegetables, which really didn’t have a lot of flavour when pitted against the khachapuri.
Service throughout had been attentive, even as Trav and I caught up and took forever to order, grazing over a couple of courses. The wine bar style shone through, and we were very comfortable. At the stage we should have stopped eating, I couldn’t help but notice an intense looking honey cake, which was being cut in outrageously large portions. Naturally, we ordered it to share, but were convincingly defeated. I have plans to go back and have the honey cake for dinner at some stage, eager to take revenge on this extremely decadent dessert!
There’s a reason there are countless lists and guides all over the internet and traditional media. Over time my infatuation has subsided to a degree, but I still find a strong desire to venture to list toppers.
As an example of this, while I didn’t book the minute it won best restaurant in Victoria for Gourmet Traveller, I still put Etta on my list of “places to try” in my phone’s notes. It’s a little awkward getting to Brunswick, and often groups or work circles won’t do the distance. This time we had circumstance go in our favour.
For one, we were going to be nearby anyway, and Catherine was driving. As I told a few people either we were going (in the lead up), or had been, I realised we are not alone in our thoughts about Brunswick. However, I’m an advocate for the area, and every time we are in this part of the north I would like to be back sooner.
That goes for Etta too. It was stunning. On the way home Catherine asked me to stop going on about how much I enjoyed it! Some of the dishes were outstanding. For the majority of the evening, service was great, and throughout the atmosphere was energetic and vibrant.
One of the early dishes had me spellbound with incredibly prepared abalone that is like no abalone I’ve ever tried. This Greenlip abalone and lardo skewer must give the chefs the same feeling as when a robber cracks a safe.
Next is the tried and tested entrée favourite of anything raw and fishy with acid. Don’t get me wrong, there is a reason why most groups I dine with have these types of dishes in their requests. It delivers on freshness, has a healthiness aura, and awakens the palate. Here, the tuna crudo is spectacular – it is packed with serious depth of flavour. It’s like your favourite gelato in Italy. Even when you are surrounded by excellent gelato everywhere you can still find that one that stands out for you.
The excellence kept coming from the kitchen. Red curry rice salad was a nice crisp addition to our mains, and worthy of inclusion in isolation too. Tempura enoki with charred wombok and shiitake mushrooms is a different and delicious shared main. Rainbow trout comes out as a nicely cooked fillet of fish that can be shared in a group, but is equally as nice as a sole main. Finally, the grilled half chicken was perfectly cooked and added a meat element to a largely seafood focussed meal. I even rated the Ramarro farm leaves to break it up.
The list of wines by the glass keep your interest, and meet the versatility of flavours on the menu. Favourite varietals like Vermentino feature, along with more obscure Sagrantino, and a Savagnin, all better known in Italy and France, but with a growing following in Australia. All three I tried were well found by the curator of the list, and by Australian producers.
To finish, dessert was a pandan and amaretto frangipane tart with palm sugar ice cream. With Tarts Anon down the road it is hard to say it is a standout tart for me, but it was a nice way to end a beautiful meal.
There’s no guarantee that you’ll have an outstanding experience just because one of the many best restaurant lists has awarded your chosen venue, but I do find it to be a worthy gauge. In this case, Gourmet Traveller was spot on because Etta is clearly a restaurant that has it sorted, and I hope to be back very soon.
I live in the little pocket of Cremorne, which is bordered by Richmond, Burnley and South Yarra (plus Melbourne Park). Cremorne is best known for its growing population of office workers, incredible level of construction and development, and the Nylex Clock.
Less known is the fact that one side of Swan Street, and one side of Church Street is in Cremorne, and it has the same postcode as Richmond and Burnley. This means as well as some great finds internal to the suburb, there’s a lot to be found on the boundary.
While I love to walk lengthy distances, I really am most familiar with this north-west part of greater 3121. So I’ll start nearby and branch out with my favourite restaurants, bars, pubs, and don’t forget there’s a few things to see and do nearby too!
The Cherry Tree is not just at the heart of Cremorne, it is the heart of Cremorne. There is a uniqueness to this pub, which showed extra love during the pandemic, but has always been the perfect local. There’s some good specials during the week, solid offerings of the pub classics, a diverse range of beers on tap that rivals the best pubs in Melbourne, a pool table, pinball, NBA Jam, and a terrific outdoor area on Balmain Street. Trivia Tuesday is a neighbourhood fave as well.
I’ve recently written about Lilac, which has an outstanding offering of wine friendly and interesting dishes, the signature chicken mousse eclair, woodfired sourdough that is worth the trip itself, and a wine list that balances on price and has a mix of crowd pleasers and those that please winos like me (aka wine snobs!) It must be going well, because Thursday lunch has just begun too.
As if on a walking tour, the last stop on Stephenson Street is Frederic. It’s a little bit fancy, but also works in weekday specials to be an option for locals regularly, and the happy hour is terrific value (based on today’s now accepted prices!) I’ve never had an average meal here. The modern French style is a feature of Reymond family venues, and it is far better than solid, with smacks of flavour, and a bar that has most of what anyone could ask for.
How lucky do we continue to feel in calling Tarts Anon a fellow Cremunian? It is the most exceptional tart focussed (only tarts!) place I’ve come across. The coffee is normally excellent too, especially when made by Carolena. I think it was Xavier who once told me to put the savoury tart in the microwave for 20 seconds (not long enough to impact the custard top layer) and I have had one a week for lunch ever since. The dessert tarts are most popular though, and with my diverse tastes the monthly menu refresh is perfect, though gladly some of the signatures feature most months of the year.
One of Cremorne’s newest cafes, is currently my favourite for coffee close by. Since opening recently, Niccolo has gladly kept a regular roster of staff, and a few of the baristas are excellent in their craft, making the best of the equally excellent quality beans. The team both in the front, and in the warehouse, are great for a chat too. If you’re in New York, go and have a look at another place where Niccolo’s beans are utilised at sister cafe, Ground Support, in Soho.
The panini here is great for lunch, and I normally go with the standard, which has prosciutto, mozzarella, and pesto. The coffee is a good standard too, and the street art is fantastic, changing every now and then, with a basketball ring to shoot some hoops.
While we’d love if LMS was as extensive on the grocery aspect as South Yarra, the paninis, coffee and other offerings are a high standard, with lots of comfortable space to sit in and enjoy. This cafe is intensely busy at lunch, but wait times are kept to a minimum with a huge staff, and the Saturday opening now is helpful for locals.
As we reach the boundary of Cremorne, the best cafe in the area is easily Top Paddock, which continues to be exciting all round. The single origin coffee options are terrific (often expertly made by Hariko), and the signature offerings, and seasonal dishes from the kitchen always have restaurant quality presentation, and loads of flavour. Summer time use of the park opposite is a feature we’d love to see back again.
This was the place where we received the most comfort during the pandemic, and I wrote some reflections at the time. While most of the staff have changed since, with a variety of reasons, the new staff are still top quality, and the kitchen continues to pump out great cafe fare (especially if the Pies have won for Tim over the weekend, which lately seems constant including the Flag!) Caroline, Tony and the other baristas do a terrific job, and the consistency of my long blacks is something that cannot be dismissed.
In pretty much direct competition with Pillar (especially for us for a number of reasons, including both being on Syd’s childcare route), I must say that the coffee is a very high standard at Axil, and I tend to buy my beans here. Catherine drops by on her way to work and has gotten to know the staff, who have been present for several years, suggesting a good place to work. It is rarer that we eat here, but that is not a reflection of the menu, which has been great on those rare occasions.
Going towards the northern border of Cremorne, but in this case, on the southern border of Richmond, Hugo’s is this part of town’s answer to the hugely successful Hector’s Deli, closer to the Vic Gardens corner. Hugo’s executes each of their offerings with as much flavour and quality as you can pack into a toastie or sanga. I’m a big fan of the breakfast muffin.
While I still will always miss the old days of the breakfast, Dimitri’s endeavour into the night has been equally delicious. Known as Jimmy to the locals, the owner has the Midas touch when it comes to delivering what his customers yearn for. The shared plates here are flavoursome, and have a modern panache. The celebrations here after the 2017 breakthrough premiership for Richmond go down in folklore.
When I’m on Swan Street, which is very regularly, this is the place to stop for a quick coffee, or take away. The chefs are always dishing up good quality, but relatively standard cafe fare, with the 6am opening time perfect for early trips when you need a bacon and egg roll to start proceedings. I’d label this the most versatile cafe offering in this part of 3121.
Across the side street from Cheeky Monkey, Tartine is one of the newer kids on the block, and is part of the latest rennaissance in Swan Street. The French style of pizza / sandwich comes with an indulgent variety of ingredients, and often it is hard to go past the crab. The price point is reasonable enough to allow multiple visits too, depending on how deeply you indulge in the wines.
It’s been part of the neighbourhood for ages, and has always delivered on fine food in a more formal but relaxed setting. Here you can happily impress on a date, special occasion, or post races celebration. I remember well the struggles of a place like Noir during the pandemic, and I’m so glad and relieved it survived.
Across the road, but far newer in its existence, is Untitled. We first came here for a post ceremony; pre reception champagne, and the menu drew us to try it properly for dinner. The blonde tones make Untitled look a little more casually inviting, and I’m sure with the quality offerings that it will continue to grow in popularity.
There are regular occasions where I have a hankering for the modern Vietnamese of Hochi Mama. Here it is possible to have a couple of simple dishes for lunch, like the superb spring rolls and rice paper rolls. Equally you can indulge in a lot more, and it is all great. I find Hochi is good to often walk-in without a booking, can suit a group, and always has some atmosphere.
Across the road, Eazy Peazy first attracted me with a fabulous yakitori out the front during the pandemic. There are some excellent lunch offers here, and it suits a group well. As the prices get a bit more serious at dinner, the quality shines through, attracting a regular clientele, and creating a busy atmospheric vibe.
Unsure of why the name was changed from Saint Urban, Waygood has (besides the name change) been a staple on the block east of the Swan and Church intersection, for over a decade. The bistro vibe is followed through with dishes that can form a long dinner, or quick (but luxurious) lunch, with a wine or two as standard.
I must admit there are a range of idiosyncracies to Future Future that don’t suit my organised nature, but once you get to know the fact you can only get ramen at lunch, and that the restaurant seems closed a lot, you simply get used to very high quality modern Japanese that is as versitile as it is delicous. The lunch deal is attractive, and at dinner you can relax over several courses and really dig in. There are so many good dishes that I cannot seem to try everything I want each time I go.
While my personal jury is out on Clover, I know enough people who have had an excellent experience that I want to include it here, and monitor with future visits. Lately the attractiveness of Lilac has meant we haven’t been back since a rainly Sunday in the third week where by coincidence more wines had been taken off the by the glass list than were on it, but the food had some pizzaz, and the intriguing uniqueness of the wine offerings should have enthusiasts learning some new tricks.
There have been several phases in the evolution of Union House, and I’ve enjoyed them all. I’m pleased that it has now settled into a pub with good differentiated quality pub dishes, and is a comfortable place to go whether on street level, in the dining room upstairs, or the terrace.
Everything that Lucas Group does is good, or even better, and Baby Pizza has become a staple for us. It is one of those venues that we go to so often the excitement has worn off, but it continues to attract us for lunch, dinner, takeaway, and a drink in the sunny front courtyard.
Oh Swan Street Patisserie, we will never forget you! Luckily we still have Cremorne Street Bakers just around the corner, and the selection never fails to deliver, whether for a savoury dinner, a cheeky brownie, gingerbread for Christmas, and cupcakes galore. Swan Street Patisserie has been replaced by Co.Bake Space, which does some incredibly popular pop-ups, and cakes made to order.
Our favourite though must be Penny For Pound. Having now moved from the quaint, out the back, of recently closed Mayday, PFP’s quality is outstanding from croissants to sausage rolls to doughnuts to gourmet singular dessert offerings.
For long time reasons I hold Messina in great esteem, and I just love the story of this gelato shop from Darlinghurst. Equally delicious (especially for honeycomb) is Piccolina. The best idea is to decide for yourself by trying 3 flavours at each on a nice afternoon, or by getting a takeaway tub!
For fish and other seafood (including takeaway fish and chips, or dining in the restaurant) you can’t go past Richmond Oysters which we visit at least once a week. Around the corner is a fabulous butcher (that also has some great lunch options) in Bertie’s, where we also visit regularly, including Thursday’s when they generally get some quality lamb coming in. There is nothing but quality here.
For the best booze, Blackhearts & Sparrows is the place for a great range of wine, and craft beers, with some terrific service.
Some of our go-to gift shops have shut over the years, but Avenue Bookstore is great for gifts, cards, and they’ll order you any book they don’t already have in their extensive collection. Ben’s $2 Plus is an icon of the area, and incredibly handy for all sorts of reasons.
From my first concert in Melbourne twenty years ago, to the modern day, the Corner Hotel continues to deliver a tremendous array of bands. There’s also a atmospheric rooftop to enjoy before and after a show.
Obviously, Melbourne Park is a short walk away so for pre-game / show venues, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink. All of the MCG, Rod Laver Arena, John Cain Arena, and AAMI Park, are a short walk, and even Sidney Myer Music Bowl. The other local attractions include the Botanic Gardens, Tan running track, and the park alongside the Yarra River.
There are several good options to get to Cremorne. My favourite is to walk along the Yarra from the city, or via the MCG. The train line handily has several through Richmond station, and a few of those stop at East Richmond too. Tram wise you can take the 70 along Flinders Street, which goes all the way past Melbourne Park, and then Swan Street. Of course, taxis, Ubers, and driving, are fine options too.
Questions and comments!
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Comfort is an expectation of many diners. At du Fermier, comfort is taken to a different level. From the entry into instant fiery warmth, into every other element, and the eventual goodbye.
There are some restaurants that purposely have an edge, extending the diner to experience new ingredients, new combinations, new technology, or new means. Some of these restaurants can be so expensive that people feel like they do not fit in. If you want to be taken care of, by people who really love what they are doing, who only want you to have the nicest time, then you might find what you are looking for at Annie Smithers’ long time Trentham restaurant.
When Annie brings out the first course, exhibiting three kinds of heirloom beetroot, with feta, rocket, and balsamic, it is like you are dining at her home. It’s a moment. We haven’t been to an Annie Smithers’ restaurant since Kyneton back in 2010 (unless we count NGV, which she has a venue), and there is no reason other than circumstance, as it was a great meal 13 years ago. We naturally tell her how glad we are to be back.
The floorstaff are outstanding. Not in a showy way. In a way that often great service reveals itself. One indication of great service is not noticing it, or rather not noticing any shortcomings. Great service is often looking forward to the next interaction with the staff, as we did on this occasion, and knowing that while they are enormously hospitable and friendly, they do take their roles seriously.
Our next course arrives and it is exciting because we are viewing the combination of duck eggs, pecorino, and black truffle done immaculately in two different ways. Catherine’s gluten-free option is a duck egg omelette that I am lucky enough to try a couple of times, generously topped with shaved local black truffle. Only a couple of times in my life have I tasted such simple omelette perfection. My dish is fresh duck egg pasta, topped with the same pecorino, and black truffle. It is equally demonstrating how delicious food can be. It is a course that we may request in the future it is so memorable.
The wines by the glass are restrained, but of high quality. We have started earlier with Champagne by A.Margaine, which is from Villers-Margery equidistant between Reims and Epernay, heading east. We’re finding a lot of restaurants want to have a Champagne by the glass, but not from one of the well known Houses, and each time we find something we would be happy to have more available to us in our own homes. The Maison Lapelus 2020 Roussanne, funnily enough from the region we are in (Macedon Ranges), is by an originally French winemaker. It is sensational, with all the texture and mouthfeel you expect from this variety, some aging complexity with French oak, and plenty of soft stone fruit.
Now I’m choosing between the Pinot Noir and the Syrah, and when it accidentally slipped that duck was the next course, I couldn’t help but honour the cliche with the Domaine des Vercheres Bourgogne 2021. This Pinot has some depth and earthiness which I like, and pairs nicely with the very generously proportioned main dish for us to share. Roasted duck breast, and confit duck leg, are served with duck fat potatoes, and roasted carrots, with a light jus, in what is a beautifully prepared dish of pure comfort. This is Annie’s cooking on a share plate, and it is delightful.
As is often the case with tasting menus, it is hard for Catherine and I to not notice the desserts going out earlier as we head toward our final, and one of our favourite courses. My dessert is the Paris Brest, which is always a hit when the pastry is properly executed. Judging by the empty plates going back to the kitchen, it was never any doubt that this was a very good quality Paris Brest. Catherine gets to try the hazelnut creme, and some chocolate mousse, with the hazelnut praline, as her dessert course, and it is still good, but the pastry is the winner for the texture (and the fat content!)
From the warmth of the greeting, to the prized corner bench seat, to the comfort of Annie’s farm to table dishes, du Fermier (“of the farmer”) is everything you could want from a dining experience. The drive to Trentham is not excessive for a day trip like we did, and the town is charming, with plenty of accommodation options, in a great part of Victoria. Annie Smithers and her team have delivered a destination restaurant that exudes care in every facet of the dining experience.
Note – since our experience and after I finished writing, I’ve realised that one of our waitstaff was restaurant manager, Bronwyn Kabboord, who won a service excellence award from the Good Food Guide and was mentioned as the “dining equivalent of a big hug”. Based on our experience this is well deserved!
It doesn’t matter how much I love an experience at an expensive restaurant, the chances of me going back are slim because of my propensity to try something new. As I approach Bentley Restaurant + Bar, the question is have I ever really been here?
In a different building, in a different suburb, with a distinctly different feel, the past decade (and a bit) since I have been here must have some stories behind it. Some aspects are similar with a seven course menu offered, and the same team behind the food and wine leadership. It goes to show how important the brains behind a restaurant are, and the ability to change and adapt to a restaurant scene that is incredibly demanding.
I didn’t see Sydney during the pandemic; it was hard enough to leave my postcode in Melbourne! As Vivid Sydney goes on in the background, there is no obvious impact of the pandemic in the numbers moving around the CBD, or in this dark, restrained, dining room.
Dining alone, and not being a huge eater, I decide on the three course menu (plus snacks, and petit four for good measure) at $150. For me, the amount of food is more than enough, and the variety is superb. But let’s start with the wine given the long time celebrity of Nick Hildebrandt’s wine lists.
Exceeding my lofty expectations, I drank extremely well tonight, and took home some extra knowledge too. In particular my extra learnings about the Savoie region of south eastern France, with its tiny plots, and particular love of wines made from the Altesse / Roussette white grape. The 2020 Maison Bonnard ‘De Montagnieu’ Roussette is stunning, and from my searches since is clearly a wine that is difficult (not impossible) to put on a list (or find for home!)
Not to be completely outdone, the 2015 Keith Tullock ‘Museum Release’ Semillon, grabs me on the list of white wines by the glass. Aged Hunter Semillon is a thing for a reason, and I think should be an option at more bars and restaurants. Later with my pork neck, the 2022 Murdoch Hill ‘Vis-A-Vis’ Cabernet Franc from the Adelaide Hills is a wonderful demonstration of a varietal that too often is smothered by Cab Sauv. As another option, a Dolcetto d’Alba was also provided to taste, which was a nice touch.
Speaking of the pork neck, it comes from Bangalow, served very generously with an unusual Chinese lettuce called “celtuce” with a macadamia puree. The pork neck is strong and rich, cooked delicately. I find myself going for some of the celtuce with each bite to temper the indulgent neck, and the macadamia allows some complimentary softness.
Earlier I’d started with snacks that were mainly superb. In particular the tender kangaroo striploin could be served at the end of a banquet and you’d still want more, and more. The tiger prawn, finger lime, and grilled hispi (cabbage), combination is also delightful. On the flipside, I didn’t appreciate the pearl meat, which may be an acquired taste. It was definitely enhanced by the charred grape underneath, but it was the lowlight of my entire meal.
In between the snacks and pork neck, coral trout is barely touched, prettily sitting in a disk with bright orange roe, and a jamon broth surrounding. Helped along by the Savoie, I enjoyed the combination of flavours, but found myself wanting for some contrasting texture towards the final bites.
Wait service, especially wine service, had been great through the evening. The dining room is full, but nicely spaced, and there are diverse groups, including some young adults with their parents (lucky things!) There is nothing awkward about dining alone, and gladly the staff do not try to compensate by spending more time at my table than others.
For dessert I am served the liquorice custard. Inside is white chocolate and mandarin. Here the softness makes complete sense; the sweetness is balanced; and the flavours all work with each other. Even better is the cold petit four following. When has ice cream covered in chocolate ever been passe?
I’m back at Bentley after a long time and just like the last time I want to come back again. It’s when not if, but with so many offerings in the stable of Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrand the question is whether I will make it before I try Monopole, Yellow, or Cirrus, on a future trip to Sydney?
Much has been written already, early in the life of this Queen (Reine) & Street (La Rue) restaurant, that could perhaps become a temple of gastronomy for the Melbourne dining scene. The confidence I had in booking a Friday night weeks out from opening, was almost purely on the reputation of sister Nomad.
Having started to write about our experience at Reine (the restaurant part of this venture) what I’m left with now is a sense of longing for more. More oysters; more Savoie; more Coral Trout; more eye fillet; and more of everything.
We had three courses of food that was supposed to be four. The oysters and hors d’oeuvres are very enticing, and also very expensive. Catherine thought her roasted scallop with black truffle was quite simply astounding. I tried two oysters from Pambula, and I haven’t had oysters that fresh and beautiful since we were in New York at Brooklyn’s Gage & Tollner. Somehow I can say that the elevated price tag ($8 an oyster is about as high as it gets) is actually worth it. I really couldn’t work out which snack I felt like, and even though the confit rabbit sounds fantastic, going with the anchovy pissaladière was excellent. This is a take on a Niçoise pizza.
During the second course was the moment where we realised that service really does need some time to settle. In such a large restaurant, it often is a roll of the dice as to how good your service is going to be, and sometimes one experience is not representative. In our case we had someone who is reasonably competent, but clearly under the pump. She was friendly too, but just not up to the standard showing through in the food and the venue. Besides being very clear about wanting to space out the dishes, we also saw some growing pains in getting glasses of wine, but one of the sommerliers was extremely attentive and helpful.
We had asked for the coral trout as a separate course to share between the entrees and main, but realised all too late that it would end up coming with our eye fillet steak, pomme frites, and beautifully dressed leafy house salad. It didn’t make a massive difference, but we did feel like it on its own. In any case, it was sensationally cooked, taken off the heat at the perfect time, with a beautiful, deeply rich, lobster beurre blanc, and juicy mussels to complete.
The eye fillet steak was superbly treated as well. Whilst it is not necessarily a steak lovers cut, it was beautifully tender, cooked to order as medium rare, with the right amount of seasoning, a beautiful béarnaise, and tremendous Dijon mustard to accompany. For Catherine and I, it is the right amount, but for others you would need to invest in a heftier option.
By this stage we knew the kitchen was operating at a high level already, very early into the life of this restaurant. There is something about doing classic food extremely well, and this is the place to try that very food. With multiple experiences at Nomad, we are big fans of Jacqui Challinor, who cemented our respect with her fund raising efforts at a Starlight Ball, where she and her team managed to pull off the olive oil ice cream sandwich in spectacular fashion to hundreds of diners for the dessert course.
Wine service here is exquisite with a tremendous list by the glass. It is my kind of list. It’s not purely experimental and on the edge as such, but it does have wines that you cannot easily get, especially the ones we tried. The ‘Marestel’ Altesse from Savoie producer Dupasquier is joyful. This 2017 white wine has such gorgeous texture and weight on the palate, with elegance that has you reaching for another mouthful as you finish your current one.
The Malbec, and the Cabernet Franc, straight varietals, were so good! The former, made in Cahor by Chateau du Cedre, is according to our waitperson the best area in the old world for Malbec. The latter by Philippe Alliet in Chinon is also an example of a part of the Loire that specialises in this varietal. Starting off with a glass of champagne is always a treat, and the Ruinart is one of three to enjoy. We had drunk French all evening and there is nothing wrong with that!
When we got to desert, we had some difficult choices to make. Catherine ended up going against the signature soft serve, and tried the ruby grapefruit which she was very happy with. I had a tough decision to make as well foregoing the chocolate espresso tart. Instead, I had the caramelised apple. It was served in a manner I didn’t expect, a little bit of a deconstructed tarte tatin, but still with the perfectly crisp pastry on the bottom, and surrounded by indulgent caramel. The buttermilk ice cream was needed to contrast the sweetness, but this is a nice dessert, and a meal of its own.
The venue is magnificent. This is a dining room fit for any truly great dining city. Melbourne has some superb restaurants across the spectrum, and this is a compliment to the offering. Reine feels like it has belonged in Melbourne for a very long time and I really hope it is here to stay. There will need to be a tremendous amount of dedication, and the building blocks laid by the owners and senior staff make it realistic to expect it will continue.
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