Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula – Wednesday 27 December 2023 – Dinner

Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula – Wednesday 27 December 2023 – Dinner

There is tonic in the act of a dining experience. For Catherine and I, it is well understood, but not formally written, that we need some time to eat, drink, and discuss – to live. Sometimes we don’t have that opportunity, and it is tough.

The find of Donna Maria is attributed to me from many years ago, but it is Catherine who has been multiple times to the stable of Donna Maria, Bistro Elba, and Patsy’s. While I did the discovering, every one of my experiences has had our little boy feature at various ages, and maybe feature a little too much. Sydney is the light of our lives, but some meals need Catherine supervising me, instead of our other little man!

So it has been a lengthy period of time before Catherine and I could finally experience one of these restaurants on our own, as they continue to build in reputation. This evening, we arrive at 6pm and leave just before 9pm, and it is a terrific few hours. Christmas has the frivolity, the wonder of the little ones, and the excitement of a big day. This evening, two adults who have been doing their best at bringing up a four year old, need some serious time to themselves, post a hectic few festive days!

The set three (or four) course menu for a few busy weeks of summer makes complete sense, and is an oasis for us. With plenty of gluten-free options, Catherine has the rare opportunity to actually choose her adventure, and I am pleased that her adventure doesn’t feature my preferences, allowing double the tasting. As we sip our Bellini, and Coravin poured Fiano, our beautifully presented entrees arrive.

Catherine’s snapper crudo with Warragul greens (succulents) and salmon roe, is akin to the flavour of oysters, so you need to be into your seafood to enjoy. I’m a fan, but my risotto, with local broad beans is a winner. A delicate extra virgin olive oil surrounds the perfectly al dente rice, toasted pine nuts, and large slivers of garlic.

Next, as I go from a delicious Stonier Chardonnay, to an even more enticing Montepulciano, we have our mains. Mine is the Osso Bucco pappardelle, which might seem an odd choice in late December, but perfectly goes with the recent crazy cool, and often wet weather, pairing delightfully with the red. Catherine’s skull prawns with the gluten-free pasta, njuda, and ricotta, has depth of flavour, and is well executed.

We asked for a wait on dessert, and we got one, because the semi-freddo was not yet available. However, the switcheroo for Catherine involved the pistachio and olive oil cake, which whilst presented looking like a burger patty with ice cream, was a sweet and enticing dessert. Equal to the task, my bombolini was exquisite with sweetness personified, and a good slather of ice cream too. We were very pleased.

Service had a lot of familiarity to it, because either here, or at sister venues, we had met many of the same waitstaff. In classic Italian style they are doing a nice enough job, with some charisma, and zero stuffiness. Just the way you like it when in Flinders, on the beautiful Mornington Peninsula. Salute!

Donna Maria
https://www.donnamaria.com.au
52 Cook Street, Flinders
Dinner 7 days; lunch Friday to Sunday
Phone (03) 5989 0160
Email eatdonnamaria@gmail.com

du Fermier – Trentham, Victoria – Friday 1 September 2023 – Lunch

du Fermier – Trentham, Victoria – Friday 1 September 2023 – Lunch

Comfort is an expectation of many diners. At du Fermier, comfort is taken to a different level. From the entry into instant fiery warmth, into every other element, and the eventual goodbye.

There are some restaurants that purposely have an edge, extending the diner to experience new ingredients, new combinations, new technology, or new means. Some of these restaurants can be so expensive that people feel like they do not fit in. If you want to be taken care of, by people who really love what they are doing, who only want you to have the nicest time, then you might find what you are looking for at Annie Smithers’ long time Trentham restaurant.

When Annie brings out the first course, exhibiting three kinds of heirloom beetroot, with feta, rocket, and balsamic, it is like you are dining at her home. It’s a moment. We haven’t been to an Annie Smithers’ restaurant since Kyneton back in 2010 (unless we count NGV, which she has a venue), and there is no reason other than circumstance, as it was a great meal 13 years ago. We naturally tell her how glad we are to be back.

The floorstaff are outstanding. Not in a showy way. In a way that often great service reveals itself. One indication of great service is not noticing it, or rather not noticing any shortcomings. Great service is often looking forward to the next interaction with the staff, as we did on this occasion, and knowing that while they are enormously hospitable and friendly, they do take their roles seriously.

Our next course arrives and it is exciting because we are viewing the combination of duck eggs, pecorino, and black truffle done immaculately in two different ways. Catherine’s gluten-free option is a duck egg omelette that I am lucky enough to try a couple of times, generously topped with shaved local black truffle. Only a couple of times in my life have I tasted such simple omelette perfection. My dish is fresh duck egg pasta, topped with the same pecorino, and black truffle. It is equally demonstrating how delicious food can be. It is a course that we may request in the future it is so memorable.

The wines by the glass are restrained, but of high quality. We have started earlier with Champagne by A.Margaine, which is from Villers-Margery equidistant between Reims and Epernay, heading east. We’re finding a lot of restaurants want to have a Champagne by the glass, but not from one of the well known Houses, and each time we find something we would be happy to have more available to us in our own homes. The Maison Lapelus 2020 Roussanne, funnily enough from the region we are in (Macedon Ranges), is by an originally French winemaker. It is sensational, with all the texture and mouthfeel you expect from this variety, some aging complexity with French oak, and plenty of soft stone fruit.

Now I’m choosing between the Pinot Noir and the Syrah, and when it accidentally slipped that duck was the next course, I couldn’t help but honour the cliche with the Domaine des Vercheres Bourgogne 2021. This Pinot has some depth and earthiness which I like, and pairs nicely with the very generously proportioned main dish for us to share. Roasted duck breast, and confit duck leg, are served with duck fat potatoes, and roasted carrots, with a light jus, in what is a beautifully prepared dish of pure comfort. This is Annie’s cooking on a share plate, and it is delightful.

As is often the case with tasting menus, it is hard for Catherine and I to not notice the desserts going out earlier as we head toward our final, and one of our favourite courses. My dessert is the Paris Brest, which is always a hit when the pastry is properly executed. Judging by the empty plates going back to the kitchen, it was never any doubt that this was a very good quality Paris Brest. Catherine gets to try the hazelnut creme, and some chocolate mousse, with the hazelnut praline, as her dessert course, and it is still good, but the pastry is the winner for the texture (and the fat content!)

From the warmth of the greeting, to the prized corner bench seat, to the comfort of Annie’s farm to table dishes, du Fermier (“of the farmer”) is everything you could want from a dining experience. The drive to Trentham is not excessive for a day trip like we did, and the town is charming, with plenty of accommodation options, in a great part of Victoria. Annie Smithers and her team have delivered a destination restaurant that exudes care in every facet of the dining experience.

du Fermier
https://anniesmithers.com.au/du-fermier

Lunch – Friday to Monday
42 High Street Trentham Victoria
Phone 03 5424 1634

Bookings – https://anniesmithers.com.au/du-fermier

Note – since our experience and after I finished writing, I’ve realised that one of our waitstaff was restaurant manager, Bronwyn Kabboord, who won a service excellence award from the Good Food Guide and was mentioned as the “dining equivalent of a big hug”. Based on our experience this is well deserved!

Rare Hare – Mornington Peninsula – Sunday 15 April 2018 – Lunch

Getting to lunch in Mornington, via two pickups, by 11.30am is a bit of a mission. According to our research, this level of commitment is required to secure a table at Rare Hare.

Today it is really windy and quite wet, with the worst of the showers launching themselves over the famed Jackalope statue right on 11.30am as we arrived. The bonus was a great part of a communal table right on the window looking out to the expansive vineyard. Not a great deal of time later and the restaurant was indeed full with a diverse crowd including a large group of ladies that made their presence heard, adding to that festive type of Sunday lunch atmosphere.

Lamb rump, cauliflower, currants, mustard vinaigrette

It’s a celebration, with Catherine’s sister’s birthday coming up, and her Mum’s not too long after that. Whatever the occasion, there is a warmth in the room; a convivial nature; that reveals itself when you are out of the big smoke, and surrounded by all things wine. Service is confident, with a style meeting the casual environment, different from the fine diner in the adjoining building.

There’s no shortage of good options jumping out in the typical modern Australian share plates menu. The usual negotiation finds a happy balance, with Sandra going for the eggplant, Stephanie for the kipfler potato salad and Catherine the roasted beetroot. Mains was lamb and fish, and dessert was a non-negotiable.

Salumi selection

To begin we shared the salumi selection, which is a great way to order as you peruse the other options. Often overlooked, the mortadella on this platter was my highlight.

Charcoal eggplant, red miso, furikake

The three shared entrees were all quality. It is hard to go past the eggplant, though it wasn’t the most generous serving. Not unreasonable for $16, though a bit more and a higher price would have been better. Everyone agreed that the taste was as good as eggplant can be; a little touch of chilli elevating it even further.

Roast beetroot, buttermilk, pecan granola, tarragon

The beetroot was a close second. A variety of textures, all were beautifully roasted, and the accompaniments combined for a terrific dish, especially the pecan granola. The aniseed punch of the tarragon was shared with the kipfler potato salad, which was again a top dish.

Snapper, lemon butter, many herbs; and
Kipfler potato salad, tarragon cream, dill pickles

Sipping the last of our chardonnay and gazing out the window there was a feeling things could not get any better. The mains lived up to the promise of the entrees and were good servings. The lamb nice and pink and the snapper relatively easy to serve from the whole fish presentation. There is a freshness to all of these dishes showing a kitchen that is confident in the offering, and taking full advantage of the produce grown locally, some of it likely on site.

Woodfired chocolate chip cookie, malt ice cream

After finishing the last of my red it was time for dessert. I changed my mind at least once and eventually settled on the woodfired chocolate chip cookie with the help of our excellent waitperson. Catherine had already chosen it too, and we probably should have shared because it is huge. It is a great idea to have a just-baked cookie in the cast iron pot; the sugary smell filling the room as it came out.

Rose pannacotta, buckwheat, raspberry jam

Steph enjoyed the milk chocolate brown butter tart that had some crème fraiche to cut through the richness. Sandra chose the rose pannacotta and having generously shared a portion I can tell you it was beautifully executed.

Milk chocolate brown butter tart, crème fraiche, citrus

The heavy rain was back as we prepared to leave the restaurant but nothing could dampen our enthusiasm for this first visit to Rare Hare. There is a strong chance it is even busier these days after Hilary visited but there’s nothing wrong with starting lunch at 11.30am. I even started with a quick espresso and the coffee is nice too!

Rare Hare Wine & Food Store Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato