Donna Maria

Newsletter – Edition 1 – BLK’s Food Blog – Yakimono, Etta, Donna Maria, Gray and Gray + more
by

Newsletter – Edition 1 – BLK’s Food Blog – Yakimono, Etta, Donna Maria, Gray and Gray + more

I am lucky that I have the opportunity to eat and drink at a lot of different venues. With a young boy, time has not however been on my side to write about each of those venues. With that in mind, I have been thinking about how I best document my culinary travels more regularly.

Don’t get me wrong. While I like sharing my travels, both locally and elsewhere, normally I am writing as much for me as a journal, as for anyone that comes across my writing, or some of my more regular readers.

As part of this, I haven’t decided yet how I’ll cover my experiences, and in what detail and completeness, but I’m looking forward to what eventuates. For this edition, I’m going to cover my main memories of December 2023, to early February 2024.

As always, please send through your questions and comments. I’m keen to have a dialogue, and would be happy to be recommended your favourite places, or hear about new venues.

Yakimono – Melbourne, City – @yakimono_au

My catch up with previous colleagues who are now close friends for pre-Christmas was at Yakimono, which offers an extraordinary lunch experience. At $66, Yakimono provides several diverse courses of Japanese tastes, plus 90 minutes of unlimited drinks!

My initial thought was that the drinks must be pretty basic, but in the end I was drinking decent prosecco, and a Bright Brewery lager, so that was a surprise. Others were enjoying the two cocktails on offer (one a Highball), or the equally decent white and red wine option. The staff were kind enough to pour our last glass with a minute to go of the 90, so they were not tight either.

The food is excellent, though those with larger appetites might be looking for an afternoon snack shortly following. Favourites like karage feature, along with some nice sushi, yakitori skewers, and several other dishes (all small) to share, plus a lot of edadame.

https://yakimono.com.au

Lillian – Melbourne, City – @lillianbrasserie

Just prior to entering Yakimono I got to try Lillian (front bar to Society, and connected to Yakimono by a lift). The olive martini here is a signature, and is utterly exceptional to the point I have brought it up in conversation several times since. The focus in this relatively straightforward cocktail is tremendous, with an olive oil infused vermouth, and the use of the Four Pillars olive gin (that I love). The extra olives served on the side are a nice touch too.

https://societyrestaurant.com/lillian

Etta – Brunswick, Melbourne – @etta_melbourne

Catherine and I were back at Etta recently, with another couple, Downesy and Lisa. There was a new menu, and the main waitperson assisting us was not knowledgeable enough yet on it, meaning our service experience was not as strong as the food coming out of the kitchen. From Catherine’s gluten intolerant perspective it was a shame that several dishes still on the menu now had the addition of gluten (without any taste difference in my opinion, especially on the already delicious crispy rice).

The tuna crudo was great, but not as good as the last version. The abalone skewer is still one of the best snacks I’ve eaten, and is unmissable, but I’m told the scallop is just as superb. Our larger plates, in particular the lamb, were beautifully executed. In between the crispy duck is new to the menu, and anyone who enjoys duck should be eating this.

The let down is the two dessert choices, which for such an impressive dining experience, ends with a whimper. The olive oil cake was nice, but not as consistent as the last time I tried it. These things can happen early in the year so it doesn’t turn me off at all, but at a minimum there really should be one more choice.

My previous review is here, along with more details about Etta

Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria – @donna_maria_flinders

The second experience I’ve had here, and it is one I enjoyed enough to write about. My review is on benleekong.com but as a summary I find Donna Maria to be one of the best restaurants on the Peninsula. The main difference is that unlike many of the winery restaurants, it is more of a dinner destination, and on the main strip of a town. The pasta is the primary reason for coming, with a good wine by the glass list. I should say for completeness that service is a laid back Italian/country style, which is entirely consistent with an Italian restaurant in regional Victoria, but at the prices some may expect a little more.

My review has just recently been published from our experience in late December – click here to read

Gray and Gray – Northcote – @grayandbreadandwine

It’s been a while now since an early December outing to Northcote to catch up with one of my best mates for some bread and wine, and later negronis!

I really enjoyed Gray and Gray, and have since written about the experience. It is not your classic wine bar with food, but it is not uncomfortably different. My only regret is not living closer, which would allow me to visit more often and sample some more of the diverse wines on offer.

Click here for my review of Gray and Gray, along with more details about the venue

Butcher’s Diner – Melbourne, City – @butchersdiner

We have fond memories of Butcher’s Diner. It is the late night place of our first meal post the birth of our boy Sydney, with its proximity to Epworth Freemasons being the key! Tonight we were back, prior to a gig at The Forum for Milky Chance, which was superb by the way.

These days Catherine was forced to change to a gluten-free diet, so the main change is the lettuce bun. The burger is great, which has consistently been the case for years, and the chips are fresh. This is a terrific spot to have on your list as it is reasonably priced, operates 24 hours, and maintains good standards. The half bottles at reasonable prices are cute, and perfect for a quick dinner.

https://butchersdiner.com

Little Lon – Melbourne, City – @littlelondistillingco

Little Lon is in a cute spot near Little Lonsdale Street on the eastern side of the city near Spring Street. The heritage building holding the bar is tiny, and most enjoying the drinks and snacks are seated outside. They have a stable of gins, and make a nice non-traditional negroni. Catherine’s peach fizz was delicious, with the right balance of booze.

https://littlelondistillingco.com

Jamsheed – Preston – @jamsheedwines

The suburban cellar door and restaurant of Jamsheed is incredibly charming. One unplanned afternoon saw Catherine, Sydney, and I, rock up post a day at the beach. The entree style share dishes we tried were first rate, and the wines here are very well made. With a gathering in mind in coming days we grabbed a few bottles and were on our way, but not before playing some pool and hungry hippos with Syd upstairs!

https://www.jamsheed.com.au

Mr Burton – Ashburton – @mrburtonashburton

Another adventure day during this up and down Melbourne summer saw us driving east in search of a pool. Having earlier decided on the wave pool at Glen Waverley that we frequent, we deviated having come across a nice kids pool at Ashburton, although with no waves. It was a bonus because we wanted to try Mr Burton.

With the sun in the courtyard not biting too much, on a table in a busy cafe that was only partially covered, we enjoyed our experience. Catherine and Syd enjoyed their juice and smoothy, and breakfast was nice. When compared to some cafes closer to our home in Cremorne, it would be a stretch to make this a cafe we’d travel to (as we often do to places like General Food Store, Red Door Corner Store, or Mr Hendricks when it was better back in the day).

https://www.mrburton.com.au

Wide Open Road – Brunswick – @wideopenroad.coffee

It has been a very long time between visits, but I’ve always enjoyed Wide Open Road (my review from 2015 here). Today the cafe fare is excellent, especially the presentation on Catherine’s thyme roasted field mushrooms, topped with fried enoki mushrooms. As cafe fronts for roasters should be, this is exceptional coffee, and is worth the trip out to Brunswick.

https://wideopenroad.com.au/pages/venues

Rossi – Prahran – @rossibar

The old Ladro is still very strong on the pizza game, and has become one of Catherine’s favourites for gluten-free bases. I first went here with my old work friends, and the pre-drink out the front was a big part of the attraction. On this occasion we were seated out the front, and enjoyed the pizza as usual. The bar does a good job, and we’ll keep coming back.

https://www.rossi.bar

The Railway Club Hotel – Port Melbourne – @railwayclubhotel

If the Mitre Tavern is a city slicker’s gentleman’s steakhouse, The Railway Club Hotel is the blokes version. It is clean and tidy, but the fit out is from another time, and all the fuss is about the steaks, which on this occasion (and several others) are fantastic. The special today with béarnaise, potato gratin, and a pear and walnut salad, is attractive enough for most of the table to order. The wine list is more akin to a suburban pub, than a quality steak restaurant, but on the positive side there is a TAB in the front bar, and plenty of outdoor space for nice days.

https://www.railwayclubhotel.com.au

Fox Friday – Richmond – @foxfridaymelbourne

A recent catch up that would normally be at the Cherry Tree Hotel, turned into a sticky-beak at the new Fox Friday in Richmond, described as a “Tap House”. I haven’t yet eaten here, but from the look of the food and the crowd, I’ll be back to try. There are about a dozen beers on tap, and plenty of other options, so it is not playing the exclusivity type game. The fit out is interesting. It is very nicely done, out of the usual disused warehouse, but unlike many other brewhouses it has been kept to a reasonable size, giving it some intimacy in comparison. The vibe, and the beers, are compelling.

https://www.foxfriday.com.au/pages/melbourne-taproom

Santoni – Hawthorn – @santonipizza

Santoni has been a go-to pizza place for a group of us who used to work nearby in Richmond. The staple remains a good quality pizza for lunch. What is unfortunate is the price these days. To start, I looked up the bottle of rose we ordered and it was a 300% mark-up, which is outrageous (and $16 a glass to boot which is only another half glass shy of a bottle). And on top of that, the pizza starts at $27 for a simple Margherita (with an extra $7 if you happen to require gluten-free). I’m not someone who goes out of my way to make price comparisons, but when you have the option to instead go to Rossi (see above) for a Margherita at $22 (+$4 GF) and the rose is at 225% (still not great), the choice is simple.

https://www.santonipizza.com

Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula – Wednesday 27 December 2023 – Dinner
by

Donna Maria – Flinders, Mornington Peninsula – Wednesday 27 December 2023 – Dinner

There is tonic in the act of a dining experience. For Catherine and I, it is well understood, but not formally written, that we need some time to eat, drink, and discuss – to live. Sometimes we don’t have that opportunity, and it is tough.

The find of Donna Maria is attributed to me from many years ago, but it is Catherine who has been multiple times to the stable of Donna Maria, Bistro Elba, and Patsy’s. While I did the discovering, every one of my experiences has had our little boy feature at various ages, and maybe feature a little too much. Sydney is the light of our lives, but some meals need Catherine supervising me, instead of our other little man!

So it has been a lengthy period of time before Catherine and I could finally experience one of these restaurants on our own, as they continue to build in reputation. This evening, we arrive at 6pm and leave just before 9pm, and it is a terrific few hours. Christmas has the frivolity, the wonder of the little ones, and the excitement of a big day. This evening, two adults who have been doing their best at bringing up a four year old, need some serious time to themselves, post a hectic few festive days!

The set three (or four) course menu for a few busy weeks of summer makes complete sense, and is an oasis for us. With plenty of gluten-free options, Catherine has the rare opportunity to actually choose her adventure, and I am pleased that her adventure doesn’t feature my preferences, allowing double the tasting. As we sip our Bellini, and Coravin poured Fiano, our beautifully presented entrees arrive.

Catherine’s snapper crudo with Warragul greens (succulents) and salmon roe, is akin to the flavour of oysters, so you need to be into your seafood to enjoy. I’m a fan, but my risotto, with local broad beans is a winner. A delicate extra virgin olive oil surrounds the perfectly al dente rice, toasted pine nuts, and large slivers of garlic.

Next, as I go from a delicious Stonier Chardonnay, to an even more enticing Montepulciano, we have our mains. Mine is the Osso Bucco pappardelle, which might seem an odd choice in late December, but perfectly goes with the recent crazy cool, and often wet weather, pairing delightfully with the red. Catherine’s skull prawns with the gluten-free pasta, njuda, and ricotta, has depth of flavour, and is well executed.

We asked for a wait on dessert, and we got one, because the semi-freddo was not yet available. However, the switcheroo for Catherine involved the pistachio and olive oil cake, which whilst presented looking like a burger patty with ice cream, was a sweet and enticing dessert. Equal to the task, my bombolini was exquisite with sweetness personified, and a good slather of ice cream too. We were very pleased.

Service had a lot of familiarity to it, because either here, or at sister venues, we had met many of the same waitstaff. In classic Italian style they are doing a nice enough job, with some charisma, and zero stuffiness. Just the way you like it when in Flinders, on the beautiful Mornington Peninsula. Salute!

Donna Maria
https://www.donnamaria.com.au
52 Cook Street, Flinders
Dinner 7 days; lunch Friday to Sunday
Phone (03) 5989 0160
Email eatdonnamaria@gmail.com

by

Patsy’s – Melbourne, City – Saturday 8 January 2022 – Dinner

Would I have done this ten years ago? Most probably not. There are two main reasons: quality; and perception. Back then the quality was nowhere near as good, and the perception was bad.

So as Catherine, my toddler Sydney, and I, walk into Patsy’s, why is dining at a vegetarian restaurant no longer a faux pas. Why are we comfortable (actually excited), and why do we have reasonable expectations?

Personally, my main reason is because some of the best dishes I’ve had in recent months are vegetarian, and over the years I’ve had many experiences where those dishes have been extremely good. Catherine is excited because she really likes the sister restaurant in Flinders, Donna Maria, which does quality Italian (but is not vegetarian).

Patsy’s is on the big round-about close to Queen Vic Market on Franklin Street. It is filled with vintage furniture, simple quaint decoration, and a white and green courtyard backdrop. Instantly I feel comfortable.

It’s not a big place, and sells itself as a wine bar too, with that friendly but professional enoteca type service. There’s no place for stuffiness, and that includes the customers.

On the menu there are a range of options, with the modern sharing style format. We decide to share the snack “Pinzimonio di Verdure”, which consists of various preserved vegetables with a hazelnut and olive bagna cauda, which is a traditional dipping sauce made of oil, butter, anchovies and garlic. It is a nice, fresh beginning.

A lot more decadent, the “Zlikrofi” is two Slovenian potato and chickpea dumplings, sitting in a sweet wine and rich shallot sauce. By the end I had ‘vinegar cheeks’ but was loving it; the firmness of the dumpling perfect for my taste.

We are certainly not big eaters, and mains were substantial as we had the Boudin de betterave along with two sides. The Burgundian beetroot sausage is an absolute full flavoured winner. With Cafe de Paris emulsion, and wrapped in vine leaves, it is just delicious. Some would say you better’ave it!

Kipfler potato mash, with its gorgeous smokiness, is a terrific addition. As is a collection of different chargrilled beans with ajo blanco, which is a Spanish soup (in this case more a sauce) made with bread, almonds, garlic, water and olive oil. This is a beautiful array of vegetarian cuisine.

While we are completely content, we are going to order dessert no matter what. At this stage we’ve really enjoyed the wine too. The native grape of Santorini is rare to find by the glass so we both indulged in a glass of Assyrtika (by Gaia Thalassitis), and by now I am onto the less complex, but deliciously juicy Xinomavro red which is also Grecian.

Dessert is curiously presented, but pretty, with the Fragole con Zabaione perfect after a substantial meal. Marinated strawberries, and strawberry ice cream, are served under the Italian combination of egg yolks, sugar and sweet wine.

Even at an early dinner, there is a great vibe here, and staff are atuned to it. We have a growing banter with the waitstaff and enjoy learning more about this culturally diverse restaurant in its early days. Vegetarian is no longer a restriction, and offerings like Patsy’s continue to make a case for its beauty. I even got to have a sausage!

Patsy’s
213 Franklin Street, Melbourne
Phone – 03 9328 7667
Bookings – OpenTable
Instagram

by

A week in Rye with the little guy

When people who love food and going out have a little one, does that diminish the future experience of food and going out? It is a question we are yet to definitively answer, but we are doing our best to accommodate each into the other!

Lunch at T’Gallant

Like most parents, we are very proud of our little 20 month boy, Sydney. He is energetic, cheeky, and beautiful. Those three characteristics do make our regular dining habits interesting though. We have never been shy of putting an over-the-top amount of thought into our next meal, and having Sydney takes it to the next level. I’ve separately written about some of that need for preparation, as well as what works for us, in “Combining our love of food and our little boy!” In saying all of this, I honestly believe our choices, and dining experiences while based in Rye, are very good for anyone.

  • Peninsula Hot Springs
  • Cornell’s fish and chips out the back at our Rye AirBNB
  • View from Arthur’s Seat

If you add in a trip to the Peninsula Hot Springs, one of the amazing golf courses, beautiful calm bay beaches like Blairgowrie, and energy charged surf beaches like Flinders, you have a terrific array of adventures. There are picnic (or professional) horse races, the Mornington to Moorooduc train from the preservation society, the Arthur’s Seat Lookout and Eagle “Gondola”, heaps of wineries, craft and farmer’s markets, and so many other attractions to this area. Last year, Sydney particularly enjoyed picking strawberries in Red Hill too.

Panda, Blairgowrie, Dinner

Panda is a place that feels as if it is calling out to you as you pass. Across the road is a beautiful calm bayside beach called Blairgowrie, that at this time of the year is pristine, with clear blue shallow water. Panda is on a corner after the main village, with green grass meeting an alfresco area of a white building that metaphorically says beach all over it.

We had a light dinner with some prawns from the specials, and shared a cheese burger. The burger was delicious, almost surprisingly so, with plenty of pickles and the right amount of sauce, in a brioche bun, with a nicely charred juicy meat pattie. The prawns were tasty too, with a salsa verde, and a thoughtful garnish salad.

What made Panda even better was the service. From the initial greeting at a busy venue, throughout our meal, to the end, the staff really were enjoying their shift. It was so great we had to comment on it, and we realise it is something you shouldn’t take for granted when it is above and beyond like that.

  • Outdoor dining, Panda style

T’Gallant, Red Hill, Lunch

We haven’t been to T’Gallant together, and the last time we had been separately was several years ago. Personally, I feel it is a bit simple to go to a winery for pizza when there are so many other options. With our little boy, we couldn’t be too choosy, and in the end we have a new take on T’Gallant.

Again, the welcome, and accommodating nature of the front of house, made an enormous difference. We didn’t have a booking so we were quite happy to continue on if the winery was full. They went out of their way to make us comfortable, allowing us to choose which table out of the couple that were left.

The set-up here has changed over the years and it is perfect now. There are views to the vineyard and plenty of shady umbrellas, which was necessary on this hot day. The grounds are good looking and well kept. The pizzas are rectangular and I must say huge! You can order “half and half” and the whole translates into a very large board. Quality is maintained even with the large size. It might not be D.O.C. quality, but it is the next best thing, and the wines such as the Pinot Gris are excellent for their style.

One quality you need with a little energetic boy is patience. The same is required for many of the T’Gallant staff. I realise this is a very tough time for restaurants with much of the workforce having left Australia for their own homelands. But we did see some bickering amongst staff, and we did overhear one had been there since school (for over 5 years), but that didn’t make her any more attentive than the rest. You basically had to run after someone to order (and we did, twice). If you are here for a quick lunch order immediately once seated, or just hold your breath and be patient.

  • Lunch at T’Gallant

Donna Maria, Flinders, Dinner

I’ve written before about places that we go back to, and how it is an immediate sign we really like a restaurant, because often our preference is to try something new. At Donna Maria we enjoyed the food enough that Catherine was back with her Mum, and sister Steph, only a couple of weeks later.

There are several distinct areas to sit and having started dinner early, we enjoyed sitting on the veranda facing the street, feeling the final rays of the sun for the day. Sydney was not in his best form tonight, so dinner was a little difficult, but the staff were great and they ignored the commotion very politely indeed.

To begin we shared the Capresse salad and the special truffled arancini. The generosity of the key ingredients, and the quality of the mozzarella, made this simple salad something to behold. Equally impactful, but with a lot more richness, was the arancini. For main we shared a serve of the crab pasta. Again, this was outstanding, with quality al dente pasta, plenty of crab, and the right amount of crumb to provide texture, but not overpower the star ingredients.

Given our unfolding situation in the highchair (we had to bring one by the way) we took away a serve of tiramisu for dessert. It is a very nice rendition of this Italian classic, and enough for the entire population of one of the neighbouring islands to enjoy! We bid arrivederci to Donna Maria, but Catherine would be back soon after to enjoy another great meal.

The Kitchen, Tootgarook, Breakfast

Despite a little confusion between finding The Little Kitchen, and The Kitchen, we found the actual cafe on a dreary Australia Day morning. The Little Kitchen is charming as a take away joint, with apparently excellent options across the board, but the outside is not comfortable for a family on a rainy day with no high chairs available either. Gladly we realised we were not where we planned just before ordering!

The Kitchen Bistro, Bar & Courtyard on the other hand is equally very busy this morning, but far more comfortable, as the main cafe / restaurant of the two sister eateries. On the other side of the main road, but close to the beach at Tootgarook, it has plenty of space inside and out, but we took the indoors option given the occasional showers.

The coffee is great, and the egg & bacon breakfast burger is full of flavour – the perfect start to a day that would lead to the Balnarring picnic races. We even got a taste of Sydney’s kids breakfast “The Smashy” which was pretty good.

Nordie, Red Hill, Breakfast

In an area rich of options, Nordie has the right balance to satisfy a diverse cafe crowd. On this bright and sunny day, the back courtyard is the perfect setting, but the interior is almost as inviting.

The dishes from the kitchen are attractive and tasty, with my Red Hill Rosti Benedict beautifully composed. While not as attractive, Catherine really enjoyed her smoked salmon bagel, and Sydney enjoyed his fruit toast and jam. The coffee is good too.

I quite like the idea of starting off at Nordie before a few cellar door visits, and then perhaps a late winery lunch. It was a very nice way to end our trip down to Rye, enjoying some Arthur’s Seat views on the way back down to the freeway.

Some takeaway options

Johnny Ripe, Main Ridge – while we have actually dined here before for lunch in the outdoor courtyard, lately we have been taking food away from Johnny Ripe like it is going out of fashion! The vanilla slices are special (you can get them a few other places too, like the Blairgowrie IGA), the lasagne is exceptional value (and delicious), and the pies and sausage rolls are terrific. A great option on a nice day is to take your own picnic blanket to eat on the expansive lawn, or stock up on provisions for your next trip on the Peninsula.

Cornell Seafood, Blairgowrie – we ordered a few serves of snapper, a Greek salad and minimum chips, and we were happy with our dinner.

16 Beach General Store, Rye – on the ocean side, this cafe has a terrific business going for a small general store, smashing out hundreds of coffees a day. They are friendly and have a lot of nice options packed into a tiny space, but the coffee (and chai) is a real winner.