Frederic – Cremorne – Saturday 10 February 2024 – Dinner

It’s down the street. Back in the day I was here at least once a week for coffee and a croissant. The pandemic had its impact, but the strength of the team behind Frederic ensured the quality would be retained.

There is no good reason why I haven’t dedicated the time to review Frederic. Having eaten here multiple times, with Catherine, several others, and even by myself, I have always been impressed. Tonight we are here for a Saturday evening, and can have a lengthy experience.

We start out the front with a champagne. On weeknights there is a great special from 4-6pm. The street overlooks a car park along the railway tracks near Richmond station, and the back of the Precinct pub, but it is still cute, and tonight is a beautiful evening. When there’s big events there can be a great atmosphere on the pavement here.

Once seated we start strategising on the menu. As usual Catherine needs to pay extra attention to the gluten-free options. More and more it is becoming a positive reason for choosing one restaurant over another, but with good restaurants normally catering well to coeliacs and gluten-intolerant people, it is rarely a reason to not try a venue.

We skip the snacks, but choose an entree, main, and dessert. After some confusion about the vitello tonnato, which I really enjoyed, Catherine chose the burrata, which popped with freshness and brightness. Although not a textural clash, the delicious Chapoutier Marsanne 2019 is probably a better choice with the burrata, heirloom tomatoes, and peach. I was glad I tried it though. Catherine’s Petit Chablis by La Manufacture in Burgundy, was just as Petit Chablis should be, and its freshness matched her burrata nicely.

French bistro screams mains to me, and I’m happy enough to start here much of the time. The porterhouse cut by Vic Southern Ranges is grass fed, and beautifully medium rare, with shoestring fries, mustard, and chimichurri. While I’d probably prefer some béarnaise, there’s nothing else I would change about this dish, and it isn’t far above a decent quality pub steak price wise. The Maison Cassange et Vitailles Grenache Shiraz Cinsaut from Languedoc is a terrific red that matches the steak well.

Catherine’s baked rockling fillet is delightfully presented, scattered mussels generously adorn the splash of green around the yellow vadouvan curry sauce. I get the pleasure of a couple of tries and it is right up to my steak, and not without merit to suggest sharing the two on another occasion.

The menu caters to Catherine’s intolerance perfectly, and I must admit, I had not stopped to think that a soufflé’s base ingredients do not include any gluten. Today’s passionfruit version is perfectly executed, with the classic fluffiness that makes you feel like you could eat two!

Frederic is a comfortable place to relax over several courses. The quality of the food, and its plating, is the primary reason I keep coming back. It is hard to say it is suburban, but it is part of our suburb, and while the normal menus prices are not every day reasonable, there are plenty of specials during the week to capture regulars. Over the years it has certainly captured us plenty of times.

Frederic
https://frederic.com.au
9-11 Cremorne Street, Cremorne
M-F lunch + dinner; Saturday dinner
hello@frederic.com.au
(03) 9089 7224

Ricky’s River Bar & Restaurant – Noosa – Thursday 25 May 2023 – Lunch

“I never watch the stars, there’s so much down here” is a lyric that has always grabbed me by Lorde. It’s not intuitive, especially since I love looking up at the stars on a clear, dark night, in the country air. In that relaxed, reflective mood, that you only achieve on holiday, I can start to see the point though.

When you are not religious, it can be particularly difficult to navigate the question of “what else?” In the same vein that there’s so much down here, so too are there little moments during your life where heaven is on earth. Perhaps I’m going too far, but for someone whose top hobbies include simply dining at a restaurant, if heaven is supposed to be some form of constant bliss, Ricky’s today is worthy of the afterlife.

On a truly beautiful day, our early lunch booking comes with a bonus as Sydney has fallen asleep as we approach the restaurant on foot. Ricky’s River Bar & Restaurant is right on the Noosa River, with a fitout that is as sleek as the view. Our waitperson is quirky, professional, and largely attentive, with some added touches for Syd that show thought and care is part of the script here. Now all we need is for three courses of great food and we are inside the pearly gates.

My freshly shucked oysters are a nice beginning, coming from South Australia. The scallops in their half shell with cauliflower puree, were good without being as juicy and succulent as you might hope for. However, the Mooloolaba king prawns were wonderful and fresh, beautifully cooked, and nicely paired with the flavoursome roasted cabbage.

There were two local white fish fillets on offer, with Catherine choosing the barramundi. My coral trout has that natural colour that makes presentation a breeze. It is perfectly cooked, sitting atop a celeriac puree, with charred leak, and asparagus to accompany. It’s not cheap, but it is a great piece of fish. With the same accompaniments, Catherine’s barramundi is just as well looked after by the chefs, and we are very pleased with our mains.

We are two very dessert oriented people, and often we find it difficult for the sweet course to equal, or even top the savouries. Here it was a tough call, as the passionfruit soufflé could not have been better executed, and the poached pears and Maravista honey cake, were absolutely superb ways to finish.

Did we linger? Absolutely! We’d started with some subtle but enjoyable cockails (Goodtime is a soft gin, Campri, grapefruit and thyme syrup combination; and I had a Blood Orange Margarita). We then moved into a Clare Valley Riesling by Carousal, and a Petit Chablis by Gueguen, before I finished with a Light Hand Chardonnay, and cleansing Land & Sea Juicebox IPA for good measure.

It wasn’t that this was the best meal of our lives, but it was delightful. It felt like everything came together perfectly, and even though the dining room was effectively full, the spacing of the tables, and the expansive view, made us feel like we had the restaurant to ourselves. It also helped that there was a quiet confidence about the floorstaff, as there should be, with such an impeccable offering.

Ricky’s River Bar & Restaurant
https://www.rickys.com.au/
2 Quamby Place, Noosa Heads
Open Wed to Sun 12pm to late
+61 7 5447 2455

Hubert – Sydney, City – Saturday 9 April 2022 – Lunch

Excited. Super excited. For an excitable person this is the most excited I’ve been about dining in some time. Despite the driving rain as we decide to skip our State Library glimpse, waiting 15 minutes for Hubert to open its doors this morning is no issue whatsoever.

By the time the doors open our umbrellas are closed, and we have caught a little glimpse of Circular Quay instead (it is the only classic Sydney glimpse we see today). Downstairs we descend, momentarily held up by the mid-level display of thousands of spirit miniatures, before entering the dining room slash jazz room. It is lit up with long candles on each table and just looks perfectly inviting as no empty room has ever looked.

Perhaps I made a mistake by booking on the bar, with no direct view of the jazz performance, but there are many reasons why it simply didn’t matter. The primary reason is the food which is the most stunning spectrum of traditional French bistro classics I’ve encountered in Australia. Then there is aspects of the service, not entirely perfect, but entirely Sydney, and the maître d’ who is as close to perfect as any restaurant manager could be.

Yes, I’m possibly embellishing, but it has been several days since we were dining here, and I’m still marveling at the experience. We wait a little for Catherine’s Tom Collins, and my (unbeknownst) cheap and delicious gin martini with a twist. Suddenly we are enjoying spanner crab with brioche toast, beautifully presented, alongside half a dozen Merimbula oysters. It is an appealing start.

We move into some Dauvisssat Chablis for Catherine, and some Clusel-Roch Gamay for me. Murray Cod a la Hubert is lashed with brown butter, capers, and lemon; and roasted Wollemi duck is layered on a plate ensconced in a balanced orange sauce that is jazz to my ears. Are we clapping for the performance, or the mains, or both? Even the frites, as you might expect at an exceptional bistro, are addictive. The endive mesclun salad eases the guilt.

Not being big eaters we don’t need dessert, but dessert has never been necessity. Watching Catherine say half way through “that is enough” of the crème caramel, only to continue going back for more is akin to my addictive personality, which includes the horses I’ll be backing a little later at Randwick. For me there is no hesitation in demolishing the passionfruit soufflé with cultured cream. When a soufflé appears on a menu the chances of it getting out alive are extremely remote. Both desserts are first class and it is consistent with the rest of this deliciously indulgent offering by Hubert.

We have four group one races in front of us, and some wine at 10 William Street, but I could easily end this day trip right here. One day I’m going to come here for lunch and stay for dinner. Then I’m going to try to hide upstairs near the many cases of wine and do it all over again the next day.

Restaurant Hubert – https://www.swillhouse.com/venues/restaurant-hubert
15 Bligh Street, Sydney
Lunch Wed-Sat from 12pm; Dinner Mon-Sat 5pm to late
Phone +61292320881
Email reservations@restauranthubert.com


Guillaume – Paddington – Sunday 3 April 2016 – Lunch

Passionfruit

Passionfruit

What better way to plan our next trip to Europe than in a beautiful dining room in Paddington, with the charm of provincial France? French food in Australia was once so cliched to the point of being stale, but modern expressions are anything but dull.

For many years, Guillaume Brahimi has been elevating the cause of French dining in Australia. The wow factor you have from dining in the Opera House is gone, left in the wake of a luxurious part-French, part-Hamptons house. I only tried the Opera House version once; an experience that provided enough great moments to merit today’s Sunday lunch.

Amuse

Amuse

Sunday lunch is only offered at Guillaume on the first Sunday of each month. There is a five course set menu with a choice of two desserts for $150 a person. The diners here have come for more than just the food, it is a glamorous feeling and there is an atmosphere of excitement.

Kingfish

Kingfish

This feeling in the dining room requires a start of Champagne and Perrier Jouet seems just right. Luckily it goes beautifully with the amuse bouche, which is a delicious diced tuna concoction complete with foam for a bit of pizzazz. Next up is our first course of Kingfish from Bateau Bay with smoked eel, shiso, walnuts and apple. Guillaume spells out where each star ingredient is from, and it shows the care and pride taken in his approach to sourcing. Looking at the size of this dish we take a deep breath knowing we probably should not have eaten breakfast, and a bircher muesli at that! In any case, each bite of the generous portion of kingfish is delicious and the combination with smoked eel works along with the classic apple and walnut flavours, and a gorgeous lemon sauce. If nothing else, a touch more apple for each bite would be good, but this is a fantastic start to the meal.

Hens of the Woods

Hens of the Woods

With that positive start behind us we go on to the “Hens of the Woods” dish of intrigue. Catherine and I had been talking about how we don’t miss the proliferation of egg based dishes during degustation menus on the Friday night. So initially the egg “oeuf mollet” from Bulla in Victoria was not overly exciting. But if any culture can prepare the perfect egg, it is the French, and when adorned with gorgeous mushrooms, truffle, and the crisp layered potato, you have a terrific dish.

KIng George Whiting

KIng George Whiting

By this stage we had moved on to the Paringa chardonnay, which naturally suits the next course. From Port Lincoln in South Australia, the King George Whiting is extremely exciting. This is one of my favourite fishes, but it needs accompaniments that lift it given its subtle flavour. The whiting itself is perfectly cooked, but the accompaniments of celeriac puree, and the sauce, whilst good, was not the quality of the previous dishes. The dish needed texture, but it was a bit fiddly with the crisp bread. There is some work to do.

Beef

Beef

The next dish was something else though. The wagyu beef from New England in New South Wales is stunning. Paris mash is served at the table from the fancy saucepan. This mash and the turnip puree are outstanding accompaniments, and the jus is delightful too. Adding to the finesse of the dish is a glorious wine from Saint-Emilion combining merlot and cabernet franc in the best possible way, with just the right age to work with the beef.

Valrhona chocolate

Valrhona chocolate

We had to try each of the desserts, so Catherine ordered the passionfruit souffle, and I chose the Valrhona chocolate. The souffle sources passionfruit from Gympie, but the star of any amazing souffle is the technique of the pastry chef. This is no exception. Add some theatre from the pouring of creme anglaise at the table and you have an exemplary performance. The banana and passionfruit sorbet is perfect too, adding refreshment and balance to each taste.

Petit fours

Petit fours

They are both different, but the Valrhona chocolate is the equal of the other dessert. The components of chocolate shards, biscuit, hazelnut cream, and textural chocolate crumb, all combine into a complete and delicious dessert. It doesn’t get more French than some souffle and chocolate for dessert, and we are perfectly fine with that! On top of this the pre-dessert was also beautiful (lychee, mango, coconut featured) and the petit fours we tried of the several offered were all fantastic!

The service is performed by a mainly French staff, adding to the feel of the restaurant. On the whole the operation is seamless, but there are some minor misses, mainly with my Aussie accent, that mean there is still the opportunity to improve. However, on one particular front the staff went above and beyond, meaning small misses can easily be overlooked.

To say this is a pleasant way to spend Sunday afternoon is a dramatic understatement. The servings are generous, the ingredients in the dishes are indulgent, and more importantly, work together in mostly classical ways, but with the right touches to enhance the flavour. Add some elegant wines to the mix, professional service and a dining room to remember, and you have all the hallmarks of what I love in a restaurant.

Guillaume Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato