It feels fresh and vibrant now. Conversely you can almost smell the old Becco. Walking in, Seinfeld enthusiasts would pleasantly recall Kramer talking about levels. The many levels of Côte Basque are again filled with happy diners, today during a roaring Sunday trade for Father’s Day.

The Trader House combination of Andrew McConnell and Jo McGann has the “Midas touch”. The sister restaurants are incredibly good, creating a portfolio that is the envy of all others hospitality groups around the country. Unlike King Midas’ touch though, the food not only is edible, but is absolutely delicious. For the tale goes that while being able to turn everything to gold, unfortunately the food touched by Midas was rather difficult to swallow. Gladly the ability of Trader House to run a successful restaurant has not become a cautionary tale.

To give you an indication of my inclination to investigate this new venture, the only booking we could secure was for 3.30pm. There is a certain dedication necessary to have several courses of food at the midpoint between lunch and dinner. Outside of Margaret River, my favourite country town is San Sebastián, and not far behind is its French Basque neighbour, Biarritz. The Basque coast fills me with delight, and upon hearing about the theme I was completely Jerry Maguired. They had me at “Basque”.

If you’ve seen a modern menu in Australia recently you’ll be aware that there is no longer a need to indicate snacks, entrees, mains and sides, because almost every menu is the same format. Here there is another side to the menu though, and this features the seafood and beef from the grill, with prices making it clear what is what. The selections are generally enticing, and there’s a few questions to ask (or words to look up), but it is relatively straightforward.

Currently my addiction to martinis led to a house martini order, while the “bringing back cosmos” theme led Catherine in another direction. The sweet accent on the martini made it dangerously drinkable, and the cosmo was ridiculously good. Queue the arrival of “anchovy matrimony” which takes me back to being newlyweds at the Hotel de Londres in San Sebastián. The idea is two anchovies that strike a balance between oil and acid, salty indulgence and brightness. We had this along with the crab tart. The first thought I had was comparatively excellent snack sizes, and the second was how insanely delicious both (especially the tart) are.

Next we’ve chosen to go straight to mains, and we have a keen agenda to have more than one dessert later. The Rohne pasture-fed tenderloin steak from the grill side of the menu comes out looking radiant. It is about as close to bright red as I’ve ever seen a steak, and the red roasted capsicum on top brings out even more redness. Catherine is somewhat taken aback. As sides we have some chips (sensational, and Syd has already had a bowl), and the leafy salad, that is properly and beautifully dressed. I love the tenderloin, though it is expensive for the serving. Catherine is still getting over the colour.

As we’ve been enjoying these dishes, we also have been smashing the ridiculously good bread. Having ordered a serve for Syd, they accidentally brought an extra to our table, and this was my invitation towards excess. It didn’t matter though, we still ordered two desserts to share and this is where things got even more exciting.

The Gateaux Basque is a dreamy tart with cherry and vanilla custard. The chocolate soufflé with vanilla gelato is a decadent ode to rich desserts. Between them we are enthralled. As if trying to get from one side of an Olympic swimming pool to another, we are out of breath trying to down the sweet offerings, and checking the calendar for dates to get back here for some more.

Along the way we spoke to one of the managers who we recognised from both Gimlet, and Napier Quarter – two of our favourites. As you’d expect with that kind of resume, service had been excellent. The wine list has high quality selections at a range of price points, many around the $20 mark. I started with an Albarino by Weathercraft in Beechworth, which was a great expression of this versatile grape. Catherine’s Julien Brocard Chablis won the day, but at its price you’d expect that. Keeping it reasonable, I went to a Chianti Sangiovese by Le Corti, which went nicely with the beef.

Becco was such an interesting restaurant to me. I found myself there regularly, often at the invitation of others, and often with tourists looking for something iconic in Melbourne. There are not many restaurants that are so instantly recognisable. Côte Basque has maintained much of the old feel, but with food that is entirely different. I’m picturing a future with a few wines on the terrace outside, washing down some of these delightful snacks, or a light entree. Though I’d be quite pleased to replicate this family meal on Father’s Day many times over too.