Back in time at vibrant Côte Basque

It feels fresh and vibrant now. Conversely you can almost smell the old Becco. Walking in, Seinfeld enthusiasts would pleasantly recall Kramer talking about levels. The many levels of Côte Basque are again filled with happy diners, today during a roaring Sunday trade for Father’s Day.

The Trader House combination of Andrew McConnell and Jo McGann has the “Midas touch”. The sister restaurants are incredibly good, creating a portfolio that is the envy of all others hospitality groups around the country. Unlike King Midas’ touch though, the food not only is edible, but is absolutely delicious. For the tale goes that while being able to turn everything to gold, unfortunately the food touched by Midas was rather difficult to swallow. Gladly the ability of Trader House to run a successful restaurant has not become a cautionary tale.

Cote Basque

Basque

To give you an indication of my inclination to investigate this new venture, the only booking we could secure was for 3.30pm. There is a certain dedication necessary to have several courses of food at the midpoint between lunch and dinner. Outside of Margaret River, my favourite country town is San Sebastián, and not far behind is its French Basque neighbour, Biarritz. The Basque coast fills me with delight, and upon hearing about the theme I was completely Jerry Maguired. They had me at “Basque”.

If you’ve seen a modern menu in Australia recently you’ll be aware that there is no longer a need to indicate snacks, entrees, mains and sides, because almost every menu is the same format. Here there is another side to the menu though, and this features the seafood and beef from the grill, with prices making it clear what is what. The selections are generally enticing, and there’s a few questions to ask (or words to look up), but it is relatively straightforward.

Currently my addiction to martinis led to a house martini order, while the “bringing back cosmos” theme led Catherine in another direction. The sweet accent on the martini made it dangerously drinkable, and the cosmo was ridiculously good. Queue the arrival of “anchovy matrimony” which takes me back to being newlyweds at the Hotel de Londres in San Sebastián. The idea is two anchovies that strike a balance between oil and acid, salty indulgence and brightness. We had this along with the crab tart. The first thought I had was comparatively excellent snack sizes, and the second was how insanely delicious both (especially the tart) are.

Next we’ve chosen to go straight to mains, and we have a keen agenda to have more than one dessert later. The Rohne pasture-fed tenderloin steak from the grill side of the menu comes out looking radiant. It is about as close to bright red as I’ve ever seen a steak, and the red roasted capsicum on top brings out even more redness. Catherine is somewhat taken aback. As sides we have some chips (sensational, and Syd has already had a bowl), and the leafy salad, that is properly and beautifully dressed. I love the tenderloin, though it is expensive for the serving. Catherine is still getting over the colour.

As we’ve been enjoying these dishes, we also have been smashing the ridiculously good bread. Having ordered a serve for Syd, they accidentally brought an extra to our table, and this was my invitation towards excess. It didn’t matter though, we still ordered two desserts to share and this is where things got even more exciting.

The Gateaux Basque is a dreamy tart with cherry and vanilla custard. The chocolate soufflé with vanilla gelato is a decadent ode to rich desserts. Between them we are enthralled. As if trying to get from one side of an Olympic swimming pool to another, we are out of breath trying to down the sweet offerings, and checking the calendar for dates to get back here for some more.

Along the way we spoke to one of the managers who we recognised from both Gimlet, and Napier Quarter – two of our favourites. As you’d expect with that kind of resume, service had been excellent. The wine list has high quality selections at a range of price points, many around the $20 mark. I started with an Albarino by Weathercraft in Beechworth, which was a great expression of this versatile grape. Catherine’s Julien Brocard Chablis won the day, but at its price you’d expect that. Keeping it reasonable, I went to a Chianti Sangiovese by Le Corti, which went nicely with the beef.

Becco was such an interesting restaurant to me. I found myself there regularly, often at the invitation of others, and often with tourists looking for something iconic in Melbourne. There are not many restaurants that are so instantly recognisable. Côte Basque has maintained much of the old feel, but with food that is entirely different. I’m picturing a future with a few wines on the terrace outside, washing down some of these delightful snacks, or a light entree. Though I’d be quite pleased to replicate this family meal on Father’s Day many times over too.

Yiaga is full of confidence – 10 months in

Nothing is left to chance with Yiaga showing maturity beyond its age

There’s no roars, but the whispers are at a constant hum, building a buzz that compels. For types like us who love great food, and the hype of a new entrant, it’s clear that trying Yiaga is going to be very high on our todo list.

From so many people those whispers have all had one main theme. Yiaga is very difficult to book. In a literal sense it is not impossible like many say, but if you have designs on a specific date good luck. The first few times I remembered to try at 10am on the first of the month (for three months later) all of the dates I wanted were gone.

This time as I was ready. It was April Fool’s Day. Bookings for July opened and I got in. Not for my preferred date, or second preference, and I had to take half of Friday off work. But I was in! With the pedigree of the executive chef and part-owner Hugh Allen, and everything I had heard from the few people who had actually been, it was an exciting time in the lead up.

Yiaga

Modern Australian

Dinner Wed to Sat Lunch Fri and Sat
+61396913800

There’s a theme to the service. Though diverse accents can be heard pointing to global reach, the ingredient that binds is the professional ease everyone has. The training regime must be strict and disciplined as there seems nothing is left to chance. It’s great to watch and superb to be the recipient of. Then there is the thoughtful and educational tour that is sure to be a highlight for any guest.

The space is beautiful. It reminds me of dining at a pavilion in Paris. There’s vantage points through the restaurant to the gardens outside. When they notice, most passersby look into the restaurant sheepishly, wondering what is inside. It is architecturally peaceful and purposeful. The kitchen is open. It faces only a handful of the tables, which are sparingly adorned, and beautifully spaced throughout the restaurant.

With any restaurant you want the finery, and the service, but you come for the food. Coconut and macadamia come together splendidly with the addition of N25 Oscietra caviar. The coconut is used instead of soy to make tofu, and the water is used to make jelly that tops it, with macadamia oil making itself prominent against the caviar. Dry aged coral trout with crisped skin sidles up to barely cooked king prawns and Jerusalem artichoke.

Perfectly roasted and slow cooked Sambar deer (venison) are enveloped in jus, with a disc of Tasmanian heritage apple to offset the richness. Green ants cover David Blackmore wagyu over a delightful pancakey bread. A tiny salad tart taunts those who cannot make friends with leaves. Mandarin sorbet somehow tastes more mandarin than mandarins.

Course after course leaves you in delight. Pearls of celeriac under a Tilsit cheese foam, covered in black truffles from NSW producer L’Air du Wombat, have you yearning for more. In a restaurant that is well temperature controlled, the herb ice cream dominated by sea parsley and finger lime begins proceedings with a cool burst. Multiple surprises scatter the lengthy degustation menu.

The sommelier has us partially reliving our time in Canada, where many of the finer restaurants give diners a taste of the wine for each pour, showing generosity. Although the wine is not cheap by the glass, it is not unreasonable, and has many enticing options, with the majority from Australia, but plenty from Europe too. We begin with the Geelong sparkling made by Nadeson Collis for Yiaga and it is delicious though at the price point it should be.

Marsanne Roussanne from Bendigo (Place of Changing Winds), and Chenin Blanc from Margaret River (L.A.S Vino), are both gorgeous whites. The Syrahmi Heathcote Mourvedre is a highlight, and the Italian Nerello Mascalese Blend by ‘I Vigneri’ I chose instead of a dessert wine feels like a great savoury alternative. Many of the wines are sourced from the Vue De Monde cellar, Hugh Allen having learned his wares from Shannon Bennett, and at Noma, over many years.

Artful modern Australian cuisine comes in many forms. Yiaga is serving up incredibly confident dishes that feel years in the making for this ten month old restaurant. With the open kitchen, intelligent restaurant design, and the flavour combinations and techniques, there are multiple times it feels like we are at Attica, Brae, or Orana, but there is no doubt Yiaga has its own style. There is almost no pomp, but a great deal of pride. Putting aside the expense, which is not easy to do, you would love to take guests from overseas here as their big day or night out.

Like the restaurant itself, it’s not a matter of making a song and dance of the experience, but when I put it all together I am humbled to be able to dine here. What a tremendous way to spend a cold wintery Friday.

Related posts:

Attica
Gimlet
O.MY
Brae
Best Restaurants in Melbourne CBD
Best Restaurants in Melbourne – 16 of my favourites