I think back to my first meal at Cicciolina often. Catherine and I had been together for a bit over six months and I was going to the US with a friend on a pre-arranged holiday. We sat down for our last meal together for a month and everything felt perfect.

We ordered a bottle of quality chardonnay and had a superb couple of courses of pasta and dessert. Forever would this small space on Acland Street in St Kilda feel special. That was 16 years ago. The bottle of wine was left off the bill. We told our waitperson that it was missed. You don’t want to tarnish a tremendous lunch with a feeling of guilt.

We’ve both been back many times, especially Catherine with friends before shows at the Palais. Tonight it’s my turn to have a quick-fire dinner in the back of the restaurant, before we get to enjoy Aaron Chen’s clever comedy. Thankfully we get a table at 6pm having taken a chance for an early meal, and we’re not the only ones.

There’s a feeling of care that has consistently been offered in every experience we’ve had at Cicciolina. It translates to a vibrant restaurant that you enjoy sitting in for hours, but don’t notice where the time has gone. How does Italian so often attract charismatic service, great wine options, and highly flavoursome and satisfying cuisine?

Tonight, even though we are in a bit of a rush, somehow we have three courses in 75 minutes. A cheesy arancini ball to begin, followed by substantial servings of pasta, and then a shared apple tart tatin. Going in reverse order, the tart tatin is confidently executed, and utterly delicious.

The pastas were both fantastic as usual, but Catherine’s had mine by a small margin. Her spaghetti with vongole and friends (lemon, garlic, parsley, olive oil and chilli) is a classic for all the right reasons. My fresh tagliatelle with blue swimmer crab meat, saffron, mascarpone and broad beans, is an excellent dish. The crab meat is generous, and I love the freshness brought by the beans. The arancini to start was exactly as you’d expect.

Both the Lobethal Road Chardonnay from Adelaide Hills, and the Spinifex Vermentino from the Barossa are what you expect too. Wine at Cicciolina has always felt like the rest of the experience. Comforting options that you can relax when choosing knowing that those behind the list have your back.

I’ve got a very high opinion of Cicciolina. The restaurant industry is undeniably difficult and longevity is one of the greatest signs of success. Hospitality often comes down to showing care for the diners experience and Cicciolina has been doing this consistently year after year.