Noir – Richmond – 24 January 2019 – Lunch

Parmesan gnocchi, green vegetables, black truffle and hazelnut pesto

Noir is a restaurant that I have been to occasionally, and have always had a good experience. Knowing that, and noticing the lunch specials on my regular walks along Swan Street in Richmond, I was intrigued. How can a restaurant of this calibre charge so little for lunch?

The express lunch includes dishes for around $18 to $20, and there is an option to add some starters and petit fours, plus a glass of wine for $40! Catherine and I had to eventually try it and we are glad we did. After three nice shared entrees of oysters with lemony champagne granita, gruyere cheese beignets, and puffs filled with pate, we were on to our main.

Gruyere cheese beignets, spinach and black olive; oysters with champagne granita; chicken liver pate profiteroles

Catherine chose the parmesan gnocchi with green vegetables and a black truffle and hazelnut pesto. The gnocchi has a firm but giving texture, combining beautifully with the peas, broadbeans and zucchini; moistened with the black truffle infused sauce. My fish and chips was great too. Homemade tartare with a good lift from extra capers, and nicely cooked snapper, made for an enjoyable lunch.

Port Phillip Bay snapper fish and chips, tartare sauce

Both the Chapoutier grenache blanc, and the Bella Ridge chenin blanc, were wines I hadn’t seen on other restaurant lists, but would happily order again. The chenin blanc from the Swan Valley in particular was surprisingly well made, and I can see why it appears on the list.

Chocolate gateau, creme brûlée tart, cream puffs

The petit fours provided as a light dessert, consisted of a chocolate ganache cake, creme brulee tart, and cream puff with white chocolate. Whilst it was some confusion with the service that led us to the three course option, given the good value and our satisfied appetites, it was a good option. We are assuming that our waitperson misinterpreted our clear instructions, but we do have some doubts so best to be even clearer!

Noir has only ever impressed me. It is almost unassuming; in a location near the corner of Swan and Church that is better known for the local pubs and cheaper eats. What has kept it open and successful for several years in this competitive environment is Noir’s consistent high quality.

Noir Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Shadow Wine Bar – Northbridge – Tuesday 23 October 2018 – Dinner

Yes! We have found a restaurant with waitstaff that can keep up with the humour and wit of my Mum! The restaurant manager mentions “Jesse will be with you shortly” and the first thing Jesse hears is something to do with the song “Jesse’s girl” care of Mum, followed up with my lack of singing ability when trying to explain what she is talking about. In the first few moments we know we have the right place.

Mum is in her element when we add terrific guidance on the geographical and varietal diversity of the wine list, some natural oysters from Smoky Bay in South Australia (that are perfect), and a fun family catch up along with Catherine and my Aunty Sher. As usual we are deep in conversation for the entire meal, but occasionally that conversation is broken by a comprehensive enjoyment of the food and wine.

Roasted beetroot

Shadow Wine Bar has now “been around”, especially for a restaurant and bar in the Perth market that can be as trendy, as it is fickle, and often unapologetically challenging to remain relevant. I had been here for a drink, but never for dinner, but it did remain on my list. Maybe such a delay in dining here meant I had lesser expectations? Those expectations don’t matter, because even if they were loftier, they would have been exceeded tonight.

Meatball

On top of those perfect oysters, across the table we tried the cheese puff, and the meatball, plus the roasted beetroot with barley. They were all good to great. The beetroot was soft and sweet from the roasting, but the barley added strong texture, and the yoghurt was just right to add some creaminess.

Spaghettini with crab

For mains, Sher and I both chose the spaghettini with crab, capers, lemon, and a light dose of chilli. The surprise was homemade spaghettini which is difficult to achieve with the right firmness, but this pasta was excellent without being absolutely perfect. The sauce made good use of all the ingredients in balanced proportions, though you can never have too much crab.

Gnocchi with tomato and eggplant

Catherine loved her gnocchi with a tomato and eggplant sauce. I tried it and thought it to be the equal of my pasta. Mum’s agnolotti lived up to her expectations too.

For dessert we shared the tiramisu and the pear tarte tatin. The latter was the better dessert by far. While the tiramisu was nice enough, it was more cake-y than usual, and missed the high notes. The pear tarte tatin was strongly executed, with crisp pastry.

Pear tarte tatin

Shadow Wine Bar impressed on all levels. While it is equally adept for a casual wine catch up, the dining version is now my favoured scenario. And Mum will definitely be back for some more oysters!

Shadow Wine Bar Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Osteria Oggi – Adelaide – Saturday 9 September 2017 – Lunch

There is something beautiful about Osteria Oggi. The striking entrance lined with bar stools; the communal style room to the back right that feels like you are dining in a secret cave; the promise of some of Adelaide’s best Italian.

Veal tongue, anchovy, tuna mayonnaise, fried capers

The four of us are here to have a lunch feast prior to the AFL final later tonight at Adelaide Oval between Port Adelaide and the Eagles. There is that finals buzz in the air on a nice sunny day. People are happy here, and the service staff vibrant and enthusiastic.

Coffin Bay oysters

We order a bunch of entrees and mains, some to share, and some to ourselves. Coffin Bay oysters are an absolutely delicious way to start, definitely in tune with the celebratory feel. The veal tongue is rich, served generously, and done like a veal tonnato, but probably best for just a taste.

Bra sausage polpette crostini, pecorino

On the other hand, the sausage polpette was a dish that you could probably keep eating and eating. Meatballs, tomato, pecorino cheese, and bread, is a combination that is always some degree of good. In this case it was exceptional. Not far off were the sardines. Again, something so simple, but so delicious. I was already making plans to come back here the next time we are in Adelaide.

Sardines, charred bread, fennel

In a similar vein, my main of housemade pappardelle with shaved pork liver, is about as rich as it comes. Then pasta is beautiful, and the deep flavour of the liver makes for an incredible dish. Towards the end I was struggling, but that wouldn’t put me off ordering it again. It was a seriously good pasta.

Housemade pappardelle, pork livers

Trav ordered the spaghetti carbonara, which uses guanciale (cheek), to lift the dish to even greater heights. I think it may have been one of the better pastas Trav had eaten. Catherine and Kerry both couldn’t go past the gnocchi with lamb and peas, a parmesan crust, and celeriac puree. While they found our pastas delicious, they really enjoyed their gnocchi. In particular, Catherine had it above Tipo 00’s which is no mean feat.

Gnocchi with lamb and peas, celeriac puree

As satisfied as we were, nothing was going to get in the way of our dessert. Front and centre, the Oggi take on tiramisu, with coffee anglaise, chocolate parfait and vanilla zabaione, was as delicious and decadent as it looks. A heavenly end to a heavenly meal!

Tiramisu affogato, coffee anglaise, chocolate parfait, vanilla zabaione

Osteria Oggi is a very impressive place to dine. There are obviously a lot of Italian restaurants in all the capitals of Australia. This one is in the top echelon and wouldn’t be out of place in Italy itself.

Osteria Oggi Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Neighbourhood Wine – Fitzroy North – Friday 7 July 2017 – Lunch

Neighbourhood Wine

I love eating on the bar. There is a propensity for diners to automatically expect to be offered a table when dining at a restaurant. This means a lot of us are missing out on the experience of eating at the bar.

When I was 25 years old, I went around the world on my own for 10 weeks. Luckily, I was already a fan of eating alone, so meal time was not as confronting as it could have been. Back in Perth, it was almost as if the waitstaff serving me would be more uncomfortable about my dining habit than I was, often almost forcefully trying to provide reading material (which I declined).

When I got to New York City, I found an almost endless supply of restaurants featuring (on purpose) a bar for overflows and loners. I was in heaven. My most memorable experience was at Union Square Cafe. As well as the magnificent bar staff, I remember taking a photo half way through a three course meal, and my part of the bar was adorned with bread, wine, and cognac. Many times whilst dining at a bar back in Melbourne I think about those experiences. As you would know, the bar concept is now a feature of Melbourne dining.

Red wine and gnocchi

Tucked away just off Nicholson Road is Neighbourhood Wine. We don’t have a booking which is dangerous on a Friday, but we have the choice of two tables, or the long stretch of empty bar space. In sync, Catherine and I choose to sit at the bar, although we were questioning the look of the actual bar stools.

It turns out, the bar stools are very comfy, and beautifully coordinate with the look and feel of this unusual space. Every nook and cranny is filled with bottles of wine, and where not dedicated to wine there is something kitsch in its place. Even the space just outside the toilet has a few dozen bottles of wine.

Wine by the glass is generally natural, with organic featuring heavily. Both of the reds that we try are excellent. The first is a Nebbiolo that has accentuated classic flavours and body that you associate with this variety. Second is a medium bodied Cinsault from the Barossa that takes a little time to open up, eventually showing good length.

The bar person pouring our wines and generally serving us knows his wines. However, he is more bartender than my New York experiences of bar servers. He is quietly spoken and lacks energy, slightly impacting our time here.

Beef ragu croquette, mustard aioli

On the flip side, the food we order is outstanding. We begin with beef ragu croquettes and they are as good as they sound. Next we share the duck and brandy parfait. It comes out as two generous scoops on grilled sourdough. While the serve of this indulgent food could be smaller, I wasn’t complaining! We easily managed to finish it all off.

Duck and brandy parfait, pickled pine mushrooms, grilled sourdough

For our final dish we shared the pan-fried potato and ricotta gnocchi with butternut pumpkin, leeks and pine nuts. It was another good dish, and generous too. It is all too obvious when a kitchen puts out amateur gnocchi and this was certainly not the case. There is confidence in the combination with the pumpkin and pine nuts, and I would be quite happy to have this dish and a nice glass of red any day of the week.

Pan-fried potato & ricotta gnocchi, butternut pumpkin, leeks and pine nuts

We seriously enjoyed our first taste of what Neighbourhood Wine has to offer. With a thought provoking wine list, and plenty of great food options to match, there is more here than just a strong local. With some work on the rapport side with customers on the bar it would be a complete experience.

Neighbourhood Wine Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

O.MY – Beaconsfield – Sunday 12 June 2016 – Dinner

O.MY – Beaconsfield – Sunday 12 June 2016 – Dinner

Pumpkin gnocchi
Pumpkin gnocchi

Exceptional meals are inspirational occasions where your imagination stays transported long after you’ve put your knife and fork in the position of your choosing. That blissful feeling of complete satisfaction is not achieved at many restaurants and usually there is an X factor that is responsible for the elation.

Travel, and celebration, are two extraneous circumstances that add to many dining experiences to make them memorable. Closer to home, on a chilly evening with no particular celebration (except for the Queen’s Birthday!), in the outskirts of this great city, is a shining epicurean example of how the ordinary can become extraordinary.

O.MY was not my idea. In fact, for some reason I thought it was out near the airport? Catherine had been keeping an eye on the growing enthusiasm for the offerings of three brothers out in the sticks. Having travelled home from Brisbane this morning on less than four hours of sleep, I still maintained a good level of excitement knowing that this place was at the top of her list.

Contrasting the seasons with fresh leaves and pickled vegetables, emulsion and pork broth
Contrasting the seasons with fresh leaves and pickled vegetables, emulsion and pork broth

By the time we were in the foothills it could have only been five or six degrees, making the walk across the road from the car seem like going from a heated spa to a cold swimming pool. The saving grace of this small restaurant was that it holds few tables, meaning the door would be permanently closed for a few hours, allowing the room to grow warm quickly. Tables are quite close together meaning our initial conversation was hushed, but this changed quickly as one of the brothers, and Sommelier extraordinaire, Chayse, liquored up several enthusiastic guests.

There is no menu so you choose between four, six and eight courses. The prices for this type of restaurant are very reasonable, so we felt compelled to try the eight courses ($110), and on reflection we would not liked to have missed the two extra dishes. Though on our next visit we would consider having four, given you have a complimentary starter, and dessert (counted as one course) is more like three smaller courses.

Sauerkraut
Sauerkraut

We found the menu gathers momentum as time passes by. The starter is playful with a contrast of the current season (fresh leaves from the farm) and earlier seasons (pickled vegetables). You grab a pickle with your leaf and dip in the emulsion, taste, and then refresh with a delicious and deep flavoured pork broth. Next comes the first official course of pumpkin gnocchi with a rich barbecue style sauce. When you hear the other aspects of the pumpkin (including the “drippings”) are themes in other dishes, you realise the care, effort, and interest that the other brothers, Blayne and Tyson (both chefs), put in their produce. All three of them working much of their “free” hours in the farm.

At this stage Catherine and I are still on our first glass of chardonnay, which has a great mouthfeel and elegance, made by Payten & Jones in the Yarra Valley. Our first glass because Catherine is driving and I am still recovering. The next dish is the weakest of the evening, with lettuce leaves covering sauerkraut, with a chicken sauce bringing the dish together. I could see some of the idea behind it, but the combination didn’t work for me with the three components not mingling. The next dish left the prior in its wake, with a beautifully presented ode to Jerusalem artichokes.

Jerusalem artichoke
Jerusalem artichoke

We hadn’t finished our chardonnay, but our Sommelier insisted on a splash of another wine (on the house) to better match the potentially clashing chemicals in the artichoke. Such an intricate dish is difficult to describe, but there were several cooking methods employed to combine different tastes and textures of the artichoke including roasting, pureeing, and simply slicing raw. At this stage some of the themes, plating, crockery, and later on some of the seemingly stripped back (but extremely detailed) desserts, had me thinking back to an amazing meal at Momofuku Seiobo. The intricacy and complexity continued throughout the night, this time with a thick wedge of perfectly cooked mackerel, sitting in a squid sauce full of flavour.

Kangaroo
Kangaroo

The two extra dishes we received as part of the eight courses came next, and both were unforgettable. First, kangaroo loin with beetroot, and honey, was stunning. Using a well known combination, but putting their mark on the dish, the chefs show their ability. Next was my favourite dish of the night, with a centrepiece of smoked lamb. Every taste was incredible; perfect lamb in a divine sauce, with simple accompaniments. The Farr Rising Gamay, from the son of one of my favourite winemakers of all time, is a terrific expression of this variety made famous by Beaujolais, and a tremendous match for both dishes.

Smoked lamb
Smoked lamb

We finish our savoury dishes on a high with beef that has been dry aged for 40 days, which comes with a restrained amount of fermented potato scattered with young carrots, and a powerful beef ragu that is best to have in small doses. This dish acts as a filler, without lacking any of the presentation or flavour of the previous dishes. Again I had our sommelier come to my aid with a thoughtful half glass to match.

Lemon tarts, orange cake, and beignets
Lemon tarts, orange cake, and beignets

We had realised by now on adjacent tables that dessert held more than the usual excitement as several courses were being served instead of the promised single course. To start we tried a petit four style collection of lemon tarts, orange cakes, and beignets. They were all good ways to begin, but the lemon tart with its terrifically balanced acidity from a natural yoghurt, won the day.

Smoked pumpkin ice cream, chestnut puree and toasted buckwheat
Smoked pumpkin ice cream, chestnut puree and toasted buckwheat

Next was a revelation in the form of smoked pumpkin ice cream, chestnut purée, and toasted buckwheat. While the attractiveness of the colour could be questioned, this was one of the most memorable, full flavoured, sweet but savoury, desserts that I’ve encountered. The thought needed to get all of the elements perfect, both separate and combined, is an art. But really, as impossible as it seems, the next dessert was just as brilliant. Enter a combination of chocolate (of brownie texture, and sauce), kaffir lime sorbet, and a determined chilli gel, and you have another dessert that broke some of the rules without being found out. The chilli gel in particular was knock your head back hot if you just have a touch at the end of your spoon, but combined into each bite it softened in itself, and extended the taste profile.

Kaffir lime sorbet, chocolate
Kaffir lime sorbet, chocolate

As we shared a peppermint tea, and our final taste of salted caramel, we spoke in awe of some of the dishes, struggling to rank some of them against each other. All the way through all the waitstaff had been fantastic. No doubt they are aided by a smaller room and a close to one for five floor to customer ratio, but there was never a time we needed anything. So much so that I hadn’t turned my head to look at the room until it had started clearing out as other tables finished. My Negro vermouth during dessert, and the mocktail made for Catherine of plum, ginger and pepper, were again expressions of the attention to detail, and careful experimentation that is part and parcel of the experience.

It’s an unusual name, in an unusual area, but O.MY exudes a tremendously bright light that is enough to get the attention of the big city and beyond. A visit out here and there’s no doubt you’ll be sold on the execution of some cutting edge ideas, and the enthusiasm with which they are presented.

O.MY
https://www.omyrestaurant.com.au/
70 Princes Hwy, Beaconsfield
Dinner Thurs – Sun; Lunch Sat and Sun
+61 (3) 97699000
info@omyrestaurant.com.au

Plus – latest experience in 2023

Union Dining – Richmond – Saturday 28 May 2016 – Dinner

Oven baked snapper fillet, soused red cabbage, harissa spiced chickpeas, yoghurt sauce

Oven baked snapper fillet, soused red cabbage, harissa spiced chickpeas, yoghurt sauce

Positive review after positive review; some describing Union Dining as their favourite, or at least their favourite in a category. It feels like this restaurant has been around for a long time, and continues to be a feature of Richmond dining.

The first time we dined here it was newly open and nice, but just nice. With the number of restaurants we like to try, repeat visits are treasured like an old family heirloom. However, another visit for work at a function upstairs was quite impressive, especially thinking back to slow cooked casserole style lamb, but that was now over three years ago.

Gnocchi, taleggio & white wine, King Valley walnuts, leaves, shoots

Gnocchi, taleggio & white wine, King Valley walnuts, leaves, shoots

I have wanted to come back for a while, but there are just too many restaurants to choose from around Richmond. This was our chance! Knowing this weekend was going to be particularly chilly, and with entertainment gold card in hand, we decided to go local and perhaps give Union Dining another go. Finding that there is a 6.30pm Saturday night booking available only 24 hours in advance, we are on our way with only a day’s notice.

A little further up from the current epicentre of Swan Street, the restaurant is set on a corner, with a good looking fitout that attracts more than a glance as people walk by. There is a warmth here with the medium lighting showing off the wooden furnishings, that are better spaced than a bistro, but by no means detracting from the atmosphere of a busy room.

Braised Three Rivers Saltbush lamb, white bean ragu, roast golden beetroots, salsa verde

Braised Three Rivers Saltbush lamb, white bean ragu, roast golden beetroots, salsa verde

As we assess the menu I realise that the mains are not jumping out at me, but I settle on the lamb. Knowing from past experience that meals can be in healthy proportions we decide to share an entree and see how we go for dessert. That entree is the gnocchi, with a taleggio and white wine sauce, scattered with an assortment of leaves and walnuts for some texture. It is a particularly nice touch that we are served separate plates even though we had elected to share, and the presentation of both is inviting. The dish as a whole is enjoyable, but the sauce is not as rich as you would expect given the inclusion of taleggio as a star ingredient.

Moving on to the braised Three Rivers saltbush lamb, and I was right to move carefully into mains. The portion is very generous, especially with the extra comfort of a white bean ragu. Coming together with roast golden beetroots and salsa verde on top of the sauce, the dish is flavoursome and perfect for the cooler months. By the end I was drinking a lot of sparkling water as the level of salt had not been curbed to balance the saltbush used in the lamb. Some tweaking there and it becomes a great dish. Catherine’s oven baked snapper fillet was certainly not as heavily seasoned, and I was going across the table to snatch more than my fair share of tastes. The bright colours of the soused red cabbage and harissa spiced chickpeas worked for the presentation, and became the flavour focus of the dish along with the gorgeous fish.

Earl Grey pannacotta, rhubarb, pistachios

Earl Grey pannacotta, rhubarb, pistachios

There was no way we were leaving prior to dessert, but equally there was no way we could fit in one each, so we settled on the Earl Grey pannacotta with rhubarb and pistachios. The Earl Grey flavour burst through each taste, and the rhubarb was beautifully poached. It was a good finish to a rich meal.

With attentive and friendly service throughout, and good food at reasonable prices, I can see why so many friends and colleagues have enjoyed Union Dining over the years.

Union Dining Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Vaporetto – Hawthorn – Friday 3 June 2016 – Dinner

IMG_5275There is a pocket in Hawthorn near Glenferrie Station that is getting a huge amount of love in recent years. From the opening of the new Lido Cinema, to branches of Huxtaburger and Fonda, plus classic cafes like Crabapple Kitchen.

We didn’t realise until one of the owners of Crabapple Kitchen walked by, that the new Venetian Italian joint next to Lido is a sister establishment. Vaporetto to the uninitiated is the most popular mode of Venetian transport along the Grand Canal. While this restaurant might take the name of those famous ferries, there is no doubt that restaurant goers in Melbourne’s East are going to think of this restaurant in year’s to come before their thoughts turn to holidays of the past.

As you open up the drinks menu you see the usual salute to Harry’s Bar, one of the institutions in Venice, most notable for serving greats such as Hemingway, and for inventing the Bellini. That atmospheric buzz of a great venue translates here tonight, with a full house already and a bar that is heaving. By complete chance we are able to secure a bar table for two on the window after a short wait. Several others behind us are not so lucky.

We were not really supposed to be having a big night out tonight. Having cooked several meals at home during the week we have been eventually worn down and came to this area to see what the menu looked like here, knowing we had plenty of other options if it didn’t grab us. As we sip on our Aperol spritz we decide to have a main and dessert rather than try some of the starters or entrees, which are quite enticing.

Gnocchi - rabbit ragu 'sacchetti Venetti', salt bush, porcini and black truffle, salted ewe's cheese

Gnocchi – rabbit ragu ‘sacchetti Venetti’, salt bush, porcini and black truffle, salted ewe’s cheese

It’s a difficult choice but eventually Catherine decides on the gnocchi with rabbit ragu, and I choose the spaghetti vongole. Catherine’s gnocchi is the perfectly pillowy but firm, and the ragu is deep and rich as you expect, with the mushrooms adding to the flavour. The saltbush is not overpowering, adding a little texture, and the salted ewe’s cheese balances out some of the richness. It is a great dish and I go back across the table for several tastes.

Spaghetti vongole - Goolwa cockles, Soave, chilli, parsley, extra virgin

Spaghetti vongole – Goolwa cockles, Soave, chilli, parsley, extra virgin

Not to say that my spaghetti vongole is not delightful. The house made pasta is properly al dente, sitting in a sauce restrained in quantity, but certainly not quality. The Italian white wine (Soave) that is the base of the sauce is one of my favourite varieties, and the cockles have good flavour. It is the closest feeling you can have to eating in Northern Italy without being there.

There are only three desserts available, plus a cheese course, but we are completely torn and on the verge of ordering all three. We wait to make our decision while we finish our sangiovese that comes from a tap. It is a novel concept but next time I will probably order something from the bottle. If we weren’t driving, $26 for a carafe would have been a good deal though.

'Fritole Veneziane' Carnivale doughnuts with cinnamon, rosewater & orange, vanilla custard, hazelnut gelati

‘Fritole Veneziane’ Carnivale doughnuts with cinnamon, rosewater & orange, vanilla custard, hazelnut gelati

The two main waitpersons we’ve had serving have both been fantastic. One of them appears to be one of the managers, but the other is equally experienced. They are the epitome of attentive, seemingly there every time we need something, but never hovering. In fact, they are run off their feet.

We take a rain check on the tiramisu and order the doughnuts, and the roasted quince dish (mainly for the fig and mascarpone ice cream). The presentation of the latter is fine dining quality, and the taste amazingly matches. The quince is perfectly roasted along with fresh figs, the chocolate is rich and soft, and the ice cream is absolutely delicious. Extra texture comes from the chunky chocolate soil, that tastes like a brownie. It is a classic combination served with flair and instantly on the list to go back for.

Roasted quinces, chocolate, plums and chestnuts, fig & mascarpone ice cream, fig leaf

Roasted quinces, chocolate, plums and chestnuts, fig & mascarpone ice cream, fig leaf

The doughnuts are rave-worthy too, but we are still mesmerised by the quince dish. Sitting in a shallow pool of sweet vanilla custard, the doughnuts taste full of cinnamon and orange zest, with that flavour from rose water that we love (but some don’t!) The hazelnut gelati is the primary reason this dish jumped out and it is terrific too.

Vaporetto is a revelation. Looking out to a carpark bordered by the swimming pool, Coles and Glenferrie Oval, you would not expect to feel like you are in the back streets of Venice (especially given the lack of cars) but somehow the team here provide that exceptional type of experience.

Vaporetto Bar & Eatery Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

No Mafia – Northbridge – Thursday 19 May 2016 – Dinner

IMG_5217 People eat early in Perth. This means that if you are able to defy the norm, you can easily get into popular restaurants simply by arriving after 8.30pm.

Earlier tonight a couple of mates and I had a few beers and wines at Shadow Wine Bar. The Austrian Veltliner I tried was impeccable, but the initial greeting left much to be desired. That alone left me very open to moving to another venue for dinner, though I must say for the rest of the evening the staff were actually quite good.

No Mafia is only a short walk further down William Street towards the Perth CBD. Having heard great reports about this place I had no hesitation in being guided by Haaron’s suggestion. When we got there it dawned on me that a lot of tables must have finished a good time before we had ordered our last drinks at Shadow.

Continuing on a wine sandwiched with beer theme we began with a terrific bottle of Montepulciano (which incidentally ruined the poor waitperson’s corkscrew), before finishing with a delicious cleansing Bassendean Stout by Nail Brewery. We needed a wine with some versatility and this worked well with a number of the chef’s selected dishes.

The service here is certainly suited to informal dining. We had a waitperson with the right amount of attentiveness and humour, without going too far. She even allowed us to have the $35 chef’s selection even though it is supposed to be for four or more.IMG_5218

We started with some fried baccalau that was excellent and some zucchini fritters that were passable, but I wouldn’t order them again. Then things started to get serious with some Napoli squid, capers, fried leeks, and lemon, which for the most part stayed tender, and had a good flavour profile.

The heavy hitters were my favourite dishes though with the comforting triple cooked potatoes bathed in garlic, chilli & aioli, something to go back for, and the Black-pig prosciutto, red-wine poached pear, ricotta, and almonds, being a dish that was delicate and glorious, even if styled on some classic combinations.

In between the pan-fried gnocchi was well executed with the semi-dried tomato pesto and rocket an aside on how good the gnocchi really was. Finally, the braised lamb leg with baked ricotta, peperonata, and green olives worked classic ingredients in another dish that is spot on.

I know my review sounds like everything was good to very good, but I will say I wasn’t sure about the ordering of the dishes, and also the overall decision on the menu. It felt a little disjointed put together and next time I would order a la carte. In isolation however, almost everything worked, and the menu is more than reasonable being this close to the city. No Mafia provides an interesting modern take on Italian near the arts precinct of Northbridge that is getting better and better.

No Mafia Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Tipo OO – Melbourne, City – Friday 10 April 2015 – Lunch

Gnocchi di patate – braised duck, porcini mushroom & pecorino pepato

Gnocchi di patate – braised duck, porcini mushroom & pecorino pepato

It is hard to have not heard of Tipo OO if you read any of the national or Victorian based food press in recent months. What is the foundation of most Italian joints across the country seems to have been perfectly laid on a busy part of Little Bourke Street in the middle of the city.

When a restaurant is named after the flour used as the base of pasta, you naturally expect excellence. Judging by the hectic long lunch crowd built up inside the restaurant, the chefs and floorstaff are definitely doing something right.

The almost square room is not overburdened with decoration but at its centre is the traditional meat slicer being used to full effect throughout service. There’s some of the usual adornments including plenty of bottles of wine, but like the dishes themselves, the base ingredients are doing much of the talking.

In a little bit of a rush, Eddie and I order the salumi to share as he sits down. The table next door, and most tables around the restaurant seem to have had it, no doubt the cascading effect being due to the meat slicer, and the fact that the meat is almost shining on the plate. It comes quickly and is perfect as a starter.

For main I order the gnocchi with braised duck, porcini mushrooms and pecorino pepato. The gnocchi holds its shape and is light, bathed in a sauce that speaks volumes of the deep flavour of the duck at its heart. In fact, the duck is so defined it is unmistakable. When combined with the gnocchi and other ingredients it is heavenly. A superb dish. Eddie orders the risotto and says it is excellent too. However, we realise that neither of us have tried the pasta, meaning another trip is compulsory in future weeks.

Service is excellent as you would expect from this type of informal Italian restaurant where charisma is part of the job description. It might be Friday but you get the feeling that every day of the week here feels similar. The wine list adds interest with plenty of wines from Italy in addition to Italian grape varieties grown in Australia. We try the Corinva Blend by Speri, a Valpolicella Classico from the north-east of Italy, and it marries beautifully with my duck gnocchi.

Tipo OO doesn’t merely add another great Italian restaurant to the Melbourne scene; there is something purposeful and focussed about this place which goes beyond many of its siblings. When you add to that the extremely reasonable pricing, it is a restaurant that I can easily see myself frequenting.

Tipo 00
361 Little Bourke St, Melbourne
https://tipo00.com.au/