South Yarra

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Matilda – South Yarra – Monday 30 July 2018 – Dinner

Pink Lady apple tarte tatin, smoked vanilla bean ice cream

The many parts of a restaurant experience that come together in a few short hours are always difficult to capture. Ultimately they translate to an overall whole that dictates your first words to describe the experience, and the likelihood of whether you’ll be back quickly, or ever at all.

What sticks out initially is how we got to Matilda; or rather how we didn’t get to France-Soir. Thinking about an important occasion I had a sudden feeling I’d like to go back to try France-Soir so immediately Catherine called mid-week about 8.45pm to make a booking. The person who answered the phone with no introduction, and asked booking details with no friendliness and a fair bit of rudeness, left us so underwhelmed that we called back the next day to cancel.

Sure, it was during service, but what were we to do when the restaurant only takes phone bookings? You would think they would at least be adept enough to say the name of the restaurant and their own name and then use a couple of please’s and thank you’s. On the flip side a new and trendy restaurant with an online booking service provided a much better introduction to their restaurant!

On the evening of our dinner we were ready well in advance of our booking. We called ahead to the restaurant and the greeting was professional and courteous. The manager welcomed us to arrive early and said we would be seated on the bar and if that was okay to come down early. We love eating on the bar so we came immediately.

Bannockburn 2015 Pinot Noir

Adding to this initial dialogue, the entrance is warm and inviting, and with an equally warm greeting from the staff, plus some unusually endearing service, we were already feeling thoroughly charmed. This is the restaurant of Scott Pickett who has in recent times earned acclaim with Estelle by Scott Pickett in Northcote. Matilda is the culmination of several years of thought and planning, with a focus on cooking with fire, and native Australian ingredients and produce (without being over the top).

Ox tongue, horseradish & sauce gribiche; tartlet of salmon roe, bonito cream

The menu is modern with several dishes that can as easily be enjoyed to yourself, as they can be shared. With the promise of dessert always requiring some planning, we decided to have one starter each, share an entrée, and share one of the larger mains (that are for two). Catherine’s starter was a delicate tartlet of salmon roe with bonito cream, that had a taste that met its immaculate presentation. Equally as delicious, but nothing of the subtlety of the tartlet was my charred ox tongue, which was outstanding.

As we were finishing our glasses of Larrent-Perrier champagne, we enjoyed our entrée of spanner crab. Again, presented with flair, but this time rusticity, the crab was absolutely beautiful, lifted by butter seasoned with dried prawn which is smothered over charred flat bread.

Dressed spanner crab, prawn butter, flat bread

At this point we moved on to a bottle of 2015 Bannockburn Pinot Noir which is a tremendous expression of what Geelong wineries can do with their terroir. Combined with the duck for two, this is a little piece of heaven. The Macedon Ranges duck, presented with two generous strips of breast meat each, a leg, and a “duck taco” on lettuce, plus sides of potatoes and broccolini, is superbly touched by the flames, promoting the gaminess of the meat, but brought into balance with the charred blood orange.

Macedon Ranges duck for two, charred blood orange

We had been chatting to the staff on the bar, and a number of floorstaff who were all doing a great job at somehow providing a consistent experience even when our main waitperson took a break for a good portion of our meal. We always seemed to be in good hands. One of the chefs working the larder behind the bar was preparing the Pink Lady apple tarte tatins and we simply couldn’t resist ordering one.

The tarte is a great dish to share, especially when we ordered an extra scoop of the smoked vanilla bean ice cream to avoid any arguments! The texture of the apples find balance between being too firm and too soft; the tarte is beautifully cooked with not too much sweetness in the pastry; and the ice cream provides the traditional creaminess that you love with this type of classic dessert.

There is so much to love about this restaurant early in its life. The staff are engaged and seem to enjoy being here, motivated by the offerings of the kitchen. The fitout is classy and modern without unnecessary fine dining flourishes. The food is meeting a script that sounds simple, but when put under the microscope shows a high level of thought and knowledge.

In this part of Domain Road, across from the Botanical Gardens, good things can last the test of time. Based on this first taste of Matilda I have little doubt we will be visiting a fair bit in coming years, and hopefully decades. This restaurant has the potential to be hot for a long time and the use of fire is only one of the reasons.

Matilda 159 Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Thirty Eight Chairs – South Yarra – Monday 13 March 2017 – Dinner

Finally! This is the third time I’ve been to Thirty Eight Chairs and finally I’ve remembered to take some photos before scoffing down my pasta and can write a review that befits this establishment.

I’ve walked along Chapel Street many times as a tourist and many more times as a local. I would not describe the South Yarra part as a dining destination, even though there is the occasional top spot. One day a colleague suggested an Italian joint just off Chapel on Bond Street and instantly I had my reservations about their reservation.

I was wrong. It was a fabulous meal and a subsequent journey there for lunch again proved the first experience was no fluke. My first dinner further demonstrated the virtues of an almost all-Italian staff, handmade pasta, and a cosy (you guessed it) 38 chair restaurant. Incidentally there is now another venue next door for overflow, so I’m not the only punter enjoying the show.

Tonight, we both chose to enjoy a handmade pasta made “Nonna style”, which is explained to be fresh, but not al dente. Mine was fettuccine with wild mushrooms and truffle oil. I don’t say this lightly, but it was the best mushroom pasta I can recall and that includes my several trips to Italy (though I note it is not my usual choice to have just mushrooms and pasta). While not al dente like a dried pasta can be, it is still great firm pasta, taken out of the water just at the right time.

Catherine enjoyed her handmade curly style pasta with a duck ragu. It had that rich deep flavour you associate with slow cooked Italian meat sauce, along with porcini mushrooms. To balance our rich pastas, the classic parmesan, pear and rocket salad works perfectly as an accompaniment.

This is better than a go-to local Italian joint. It is up there with many of the finer, more expensive, city establishments. Outside of Tipo 00, I’m quite happy going to Thirty Eight Chairs, or Supermaxi, both outside the CBD, for great Italian food, served by terrific hosts.

Thirty Eight Chairs Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Atlas Dining – South Yarra – Friday 11 November 2016 – Dinner

Octopus, sweet potato,, pomelo

Octopus, sweet potato, pomelo

Is there a secret formula to obtaining buzz about a restaurant opening? I couldn’t be sure, but I would bet that marketing / restaurant consultants swear by it. How ever it might come about, there is a definite buzz around Atlas Dining.

I’ve seen it in The Age’s Epicure liftout on a Tuesday; I’ve heard friends randomly mention it; and I’ve seen it come up on Instagram. One of those friends said his mate had been once a month since opening! Little to question on that score when purely studying the prices, which allow you to get out of the restaurant at less than $100 per person for 4 courses, matching wines, some unlimited sparkling and a tea or coffee!

Short story is that the head chef and owner has worked everywhere, spanning several countries, and somehow has a restaurant on Commercial Road in South Yarra at the age of 22! The question is has he jumped in the deep end too early? Having chosen the 6 course option with matching wines, we sip our champagne while enjoying the combined bread and amuse which is served charred with a duck parfait drizzled with honey that is delicious. First course in the form of octopus is confirmation that Charlie Carrington and his chefs can cook.

Asparagus, egg, iceberg

Asparagus, egg, iceberg

Actually, while all the dishes are great, the octopus dish is my favourite. It is beautifully charred, and the accompaniments lift it even further. The vinegar from the pickled diakon and the acid of the pomelo, is softened by the slightly spicy and deeply flavoured puree of sweet potato. All together it is an inspired dish, and the first of six that pay homage to Vietnam. Did I mention that every four months, Atlas Dining, will change its cultural theme, the next instalment being from the Middle East.

Mackerel, pickled vegetables, Vietnamese mint

Mackerel, pickled vegetables, Vietnamese mint

The next dish, features chopped asparagus, a warm slow cooked egg, iceberg lettuce, and a delightful butter sauce. Again the combination is terrific, with some classic flavours combining through excellent technique. Our third course is mackerel, the strength of this fish being exhibited in all its glory; but it is not for everyone. It is a generous serve, sleekly presented, and I enjoy it with the pickled diakon and carrot, but it doesn’t have the punch of the previous dishes.

Wagyu beef pho tartare

Wagyu beef pho tartare

We are back on a winner with the wagyu tartare which is more deconstructed than traditional tartare which normally combines the ingredients until they are almost indistinguishable. Here you have just slightly cooked wagyu, the slow cooked egg similar to the second course, spicy crackers, onion, herbs and spices, coming together with a reduced pho as the sauce. Again the presentation met the flavour, with the cracker shavings over the black plate having a great visual impact.

There is an easy flow to service, which is excellent across the board. There is a consistency in the feel which is casual and approachable; there is belief. Our waitperson in particular, and the sommelier, do a fine job, and some dishes being brought out by the chefs is a nice touch.

The wine list is on point with the theme, offering diverse and interesting options. While we could have happily had the Geoff Weaver Chardonnay, we decided to do the matching, and we were pleased we did. There were some interesting (and delicious) wines early in the night. The best was a subtle German wine from Baden in a White Burgundy style, that opened up beautifully with the octopus. However, my favourite glass was a Chilean pinot noir by Montsecano that really hit it off with the wagyu tartare.

Lychee, grilled cucumber

Lychee, grilled cucumber

Our first dessert was a refreshing grilled cucumber and cucumber and lychee granita. Nicely presented, it was really more an entree into our second dessert, which showed the restraint you often associate with Asian sweets, but with wonderful balance. White peach served both grilled, and julienne, with a buffalo curd infused with coriander. Again, a few ingredients, in a combination that seems simple but is actually deceiving, showing that the chefs know how to use technique without demonstrating the complications to the customer.

Peach, smoked buffalo curd, coriander

Peach, smoked buffalo curd, coriander

Even without knowing the back story it is hard not to get swept up by Atlas Dining. The challenge of the restaurant business is being met by a young chef and a professional outfit head on. It is a business though, and the test only becomes more challenging (but also rewarding) over time. The ingredients are certainly there for our fantastic experience to be repeated over a lengthy period, and I’m looking forward to seeing Charlie’s take on the Middle East.

Atlas Dining Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Lawson Grove – South Yarra – Numerous Occasions – Breakfast and Lunch

French toast, with figs and maple

French toast, with figs and maple

Some cafes have a unique quality; a feeling; that is a reflection of many aspects of their fabric contrasted with your own broader personal experience. At Lawson Grove there is a warmth that is rare.

It could be the tucked away, leafy location, at the bottom of an art deco apartment building. It could be the friendliness of the staff and owners, or even the customers. It could be the quasi deli and milk bar type offerings. As that great Australian film summarised, perhaps it is “the vibe”.

One thing is for sure, all of these facets do not matter unless the food and coffee are up to the same level. At Lawson Grove they always are, and often exceed, what is needed to be talking about coming back before you leave.

Omelette with confit tomatoes and goat's cheese

Omelette with confit tomatoes and goat’s cheese

On the last occasion I was there, Catherine and I had breakfast. My French toast with figs and maple was absolutely delicious, and the perfect serve with balance to the sweetness. Catherine’s folded omelette was well executed and equally tasty.

The food on offer is diverse. I’ve had a version of Heston Blumenthal’s burger on a couple of occasions and it is memorable. There are often pulled pork tacos that seem to disappear as if the chef doubles as a magician. The menu keeps vibrant and varied, meaning that a regular visitor will often not be able to get what they came for, but leave with a new favourite.

The coffee is a good enough standard to simply go and enjoy it alone, whether on one of the cute outside tables, the curb on the quiet side street, or inside in the warmth. Every time I’m there the staff are saying hi to regular customers who may or may not be good friends. Not being able to tell is the secret to why Lawson Grove is such an enjoyable place to go.

Lawson Grove Shop Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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South Yarra Trattoria – South Yarra – Saturday 7 May 2016 – Dinner

IMG_5180Cheap and cheerful is often used as a description for somewhere that just actually is not very good. It has become a clique rather than maintaining what it should mean, which is a place that is informal, friendly, and doesn’t break the bank.

To be transparent, I was not planning on writing a blog on South Yarra Trattoria. My friend had organised dinner for a group, and this was a safe option from her significant South Yarra experience, describing the restaurant as “cheap and cheerful”. Organising a group dinner is always a challenge, and luckily tonight was properly cheap and cheerful.

The reason I decided to do a short review is that South Yarra Trattoria is worth knowing about. The menu is a novel of everything fitting into the description of informal Italian with the exception of pizza. Within each grouping of pasta, veal, gnocchi and other staples there is around six or more options. Mathematicians would have difficulty in coming up with the number of possible combinations for entrée, main and dessert.

Seated at a large table at the back of the restaurant was genius by the floorstaff as we long outstayed our welcome, even for a Saturday night. BYO wine will do that to you. But the staff didn’t do any packing up immediately around us, making all aspects of the service experience great. In fact, the tempo, and attentiveness of our waitperson was excellent.
IMG_5181
The food is incredibly well priced, but given the pricing you get the formula you would expect. It is tasty food, but there is nothing surprising, with ingredients that the average shopper would be using from a supermarket chain. Our entrée calamari was lightly cooked, but still had some toughness to it, suggesting either lack of quality, or lack of tenderising.

On the flip side, my gnocchi Calabrese was delicious with a sauce not holding back on chilli spice, and a serve not holding back at all. The gnocchi in this case is a nice quality and comparable to more expensive versions. Catherine’s lasagne was decent, without that higher level of love that you can taste when execution is more fluent, and ingredients are higher in quality.

The desserts were the same. Tried and true sweet treats, like our tartufo (Italian ice cream dessert, rolled in chocolate in this case), tasted nice, and for $8 that is a very reasonable dessert. But this place isn’t purely just about food, it is about sharing a meal with friends, in an environment made particularly convivial by the waitstaff.

There are ways to do cheap well, and a completely full restaurant here, in an area with some Italian powerhouses (Da Noi, E’Cucina, 38 Chairs) shows that South Yarra Trattoria is doing a good job.

South Yarra Trattoria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Master Roll Vietnam – South Yarra – Tuesday 22 December 2015 – Lunch

Bahn mi

Bahn mi

There are so many great looking casual restaurants in Melbourne that you need an enhanced memory, or method of remembering, to note them all down for future return visits. Master Roll Vietnam fits into this category nicely.

A few weeks ago Catherine and I were walking along Toorak Road when we passed by, after breakfast, on our way to dessert! The modern Vietnamese eatery, using clean and minimalist décor, with an eye catching logo, made an impact.

Knowing the main game was catching Spectre at the Como Centre, my mate Simon and I wanted a quick lunch that was good quality. Some brief research that morning revealed that the sleek design translated into popular Vietnamese cuisine, with a line to boot. On that guidance we decided to meet at midday to beat the rush and we had done just that, with little time to spare.

Duck rice paper rolls

Duck rice paper rolls

To get a small spectrum of the offerings we tried both the grilled chicken and crispy roast pork bahn mi. To start we shared a serve of the duck rice paper rolls. Everything here is reasonably priced, but with competition down the road from another Vietnamese bakery, not to mention the number of places like Roll’d popping up, you need to do better than just that. And it was.

I was a little surprised because having my first bite of the roast pork bahn mi, there was the usual distinct flavours coming from the pate and pickled vegetables, but the pork really shone. It was generous and delicious with a good amount of crackling making the saltiness perfect. Then I tried the grilled chicken and somehow it was bettered by a small margin. The rolls are a nice quality, but I think that might be the main point of improvement.

The duck rice paper rolls are good, but I think I need to lower my expectation on the quality of duck you get in relatively cheap rice paper rolls because it is not amazing. The wrapper was firm around the duck and other usual ingredients, but I think the pre-wrapped nature means the duck dries a little and I think the only way around that is to do it fresh and incorporate the hoi sin sauce into the roll rather than have it as a dipping sauce.

I often have a craving for a great bahn mi and as well as being the shortest walk from my place, Master Roll Vietnam is also of such a quality that those cravings are unlikely to subsist any time soon.

Master Roll Vietnam Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Darling – South Yarra – Saturday 28 November 2015 – Breakfast

IMG_4396Darling is nicely named for the area, especially since it is on the street its name is derived from. Walking towards the cafe from Toorak Road you can only really see the name written in white, on black boarding, with lots of glass. Once inside you are in a room resembling the latest design used in “The Block” with a mix of Scandinavian and industrial.

The sunny, but mild, late Spring weather has rubbed off on the floorstaff and patrons alike. I noticed immediately that there is a bit of a focus on coffee when ordering my long black. I was offered to try one of the two single origins available, one an Ethiopian with acidic notes and a more robust Brazilian. I started off with the Ethiopian and finished with the Brazilian which I marginally preferred, but both were excellent. The touch of providing it half full and bringing a jug of hot water is great.

Mild Chilli Prawn Omelette with sautéed piperade, goats cheese & rocket

Mild Chilli Prawn Omelette with sautéed piperade, goats cheese & rocket

Looking at the menu it becomes evident that there is a South-East Asian leaning to some of the dishes, with a specific wok list for lunch. Given this leaning I decided I’d try something a bit different, rather than the Darling big breakfast, which was enticing. The mild chilli prawn omelette comes with piperade (a combination of tomato, onion and peppers), goats cheese, spring onions, and rocket, on a couple slices of very nice seeded bread. While it needed a good couple of sprinkles of the sea salt offered, the flavours all combined well, the prawns were fresh and generous, and the omelette itself was perfectly cooked.

Eggs Benedict: poached eggs with rocket and smoked salmon

Eggs Benedict: poached eggs with rocket and smoked salmon

Catherine had the eggs benedict with smoked salmon in place of ham which is offered for only a couple dollars more. Again, the serving was very generous, especially the amount of salmon, which was delicious with the hollandaise, seeded toast, and poached eggs. The iced tea she ordered was great too with only mild sweetness, and some body, perhaps from a touch of condensed milk.

We had walked to breakfast, and we certainly had to walk back considering the serving sizes! This was a pleasant breakfast and if that quality translates through to lunch it is also worth a visit for one of the dishes from the wok, not to mention another single origin from Brazil.

Darling Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Miss Chu – South Yarra – Sunday 6 September 2015 – Dinner

Traditional beef pho

Traditional beef pho

Having walked past a few times before visiting there is something enticing about the entrance to Miss Chu. The model of having the takeaway at the front and the restaurant at the back doesn’t always work but in this case there is something comforting.

The fitout for this Vietnamese diner uses every inch of the long and tight rectangle room. It is funky and functional. The menu doubles as an order form immediately bringing memories of places like Tim Ho Wan in Hong Kong. While we are here for soup, there are just too many enticing dishes to completely focus there.
So we begin with rice paper rolls. Beautiful, tight wrapped rice paper covers a generous roast duck filling. Combined with the rice wine vinegar based sweet chilli sauce you have way more than a snack. This could act as a light lunch.

Roast duck and banana flower rice paper rolls

Roast duck and banana flower rice paper rolls

Next we try the prawn and crab net spring rolls. Again, it strikes me that you can actually taste the prawn and crab through its generousity, which should be the usual case, but just isn’t in reality. Each bite is delicious and again the dipping sauce adds a hit of heat.

We now have our traditional Vietnamese pho filled with beef. The broth is great, but certainly no better than many on Victoria Street. What does set this pho apart is the noodles which are perfectly formed and have that elasticity and texture that puts them in the exceptional basket. The beef is tender enough, but still could be cut a little smaller in the kitchen. Put another way, it’s probably not a first date dish.

Prawn & crab net spring rolls

Prawn & crab net spring rolls

With a good selection of drinks available, Miss Chu provides a terrific dining experience. While you write your own order, the service is still interactive, and on this occasion, quick. For the price tag it is one of those experiences where you are already planning future visits as you slurp the last of those awesome noodles.

Miss Chu Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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The Stables of Como – South Yarra – Sunday 12 October 2014 – Lunch

IMG_2662Another weekend of incredible spring weather greeted us as we headed towards water to find a spot for lunch. We had been thinking of anywhere near the beach, outside, with fresh and light dishes available. As we turned off Grange Road a bright idea entered my head!

The Stables of Como appeared and the choice was clear on such a perfect day. Strolling around the grounds of Como House while waiting for a table, along with several other groups, was more than pleasant. Eventually the sun swayed us to sit down close by and wait. It was only about half an hour at the height of lunch service, and gave us a nice chance to wander around.

The Stables is a sibling of Friends of Mine and Porgie + Mrs Jones. It has its own personality and the vibe is similar to the surrounds of Como House with quite a well dressed and well-to-do crowd. As beautiful as the day was, direct sunlight was quite hot so a table inside was offered and we gladly accepted.

Roasted cauliflower salad

Roasted cauliflower salad

The menu is broad with good choices for both breakfast and lunch. Catching my eye immediately was the Lyonnaise Salad. My memories of salads in Lyon when travelling are still vivid ten years on and I was hoping for something traditional with a twist. I probably should have read the menu better because the twists were quite accentuated; not so much like a roller-coaster, more like a winding road in the Dandenongs.

It was still nice to eat and the smoked duck pancetta was one good reason to try it. Along with the duck were white anchovies, several leaves, broad beans, lardons, potato crisps for texture, and of course a poached egg as is required for a salade Lyonnaise. I would love for it to be served with the egg at the bottom of a bowl, rather than at the top of a plate, so the yolk could instantly mingle with the dressing, and for more lettuce to be used.

Salad Lyonnaise

Salad Lyonnaise

Catherine tried the “roasted cauliflower, chickpea, organic quinoa + feta, with nuts, seeds, and spices”. It was utterly delicious and when she failed to finish I took over! Both salads were very good servings. This one was really quite inspired and a dish I’ll be going back for again. Everything worked together and was in balance.

I’ve been to The Stables a few times and the classics for breakfast like smashed avocado are great. One dish that caught our eye was the tart with an heirloom tomato salad that was very popular and bursting with brightness on the plate. Definitely a go-to dish.

It’s a comfortable place to relax over a coffee or a wine, and the service is good. The Stables of Como is a fantastic cafe to check out, especially over the remainder of our spring and summer.

The Stables of Como on Urbanspoon

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Tivoli Road Bakery – South Yarra – Saturday 31 May 2014 – Breakfast

Ham, cheese and tomato croissant

Ham, cheese and tomato croissant

What an autumn we have had in Melbourne! It’s been the best in my five and a bit years over here. The reward for a 4km walk is breakfast at Tivoli’s!

There is something uniquely comforting in a bakery. Tivoli is where bakeries go to die. This heaven on earth for bakeries was originally the base for MoVida’s provision of breads and pastries for Frank Camora’s empire of eateries.

The reason for Tivoli being king isn’t solely related to being an incredibly good artisan baker. It offers good quality coffee, and a small but comfortable place to eat both inside and out.

We’ve been here for the great gourmet pies, to get our fill of hot cross buns over Easter, and for delicious cakes. Today I had croissants on my mind. We got lucky with the last couple of ham, cheese and tomato croissants, which completely offset the good work walking there, but that was the point!

Like another favourite, Chez Dre, Tivoli is worth an extended walk or drive. Put ordering the hot cross buns in your calendar for Easter next year!

Tivoli Road Bakery on Urbanspoon

Post script:

Back at Tivoli today (Wednesday 12 November 2014), one of the several times since the above review, and there is a few new menu items to enjoy. Pictured is a delicious pork roll that has a bit of crackle to it, some coriander, kim chi, and plenty of other goodness. I didn’t photograph Catherine’s sausage roll but they have replaced the usual lamb with chicken, which is equally great!

Tivoli's pork roll

Tivoli’s pork roll