Chardonnay

Gray and Gray, Bread and Wine – Northcote – Thursday 16 December 2023 – Dinner
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Gray and Gray, Bread and Wine – Northcote – Thursday 16 December 2023 – Dinner

As a professional, I find the outside of Gray and Gray entirely cute, and somehow inviting. An oasis for professionals in Northcote, this is not. A great venue to catch up and enjoy some diverse wines, and slightly familiar but not familiar dishes, this is. The signage is an ode to the previous occupant which appears to be a barrister perhaps.

I’m on a man-date with my mate Trav, and we have had a warm up at The Peacock, which is worthy of more than a sticky beak. Our little high table is cute too. Is there a theme?

Unusually, Ben Haines Chardonnay sits atop of the list of whites by the bottle, and I am sold knowing how good this vigneron is. The wine itself is balanced perfectly with subtle okay treatment, and equally subtle but knowing fruit. Trav has already spotted a Hungarian red that is sure to come next.

We began the food proceedings with a pork skewer each, and some sauerkraut, which combined deliciously. Having looked at the brief menu and considered our options, we thought taking advantage of a number of the meat options suited us, but there were not many.

My choice dish to share came next in the form of blinis with a gorgeous whipped potato, and smoked eel concoction, dressed with salmon roe, chives, and kvas (a low alcohol traditional beverage made similar to beer from north-eastern Europe). Trav didn’t love it, but I was quite taken, grabbing more blinis than my fair share, and smothering them in the dip. It reminded me of the way I sometimes eat pate where the vessel operates to separate my hand from an intense amount of the main show.

As we began on our light Hungarian red, we were served with the khachapuri. Khachapuri is in very simple terms a Georgian pizza. I liken it more to an open calzone. With a kharcho (soup) braised pork and lamb combination, topped with pickled onions and herbs, I was enjoying both the familiarity, along with the difference. The light red only added interest with a slightly earthy nose, and some nice fruit to follow. The slight disappointment was the vegetables, which really didn’t have a lot of flavour when pitted against the khachapuri.

Service throughout had been attentive, even as Trav and I caught up and took forever to order, grazing over a couple of courses. The wine bar style shone through, and we were very comfortable. At the stage we should have stopped eating, I couldn’t help but notice an intense looking honey cake, which was being cut in outrageously large portions. Naturally, we ordered it to share, but were convincingly defeated. I have plans to go back and have the honey cake for dinner at some stage, eager to take revenge on this extremely decadent dessert!

Gray & Gray
https://breadandwine.com.au
188 High Street, Northcote, VIC
hello@breadandwine.com.au
+61402962444

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Gimlet – Melbourne, City – Friday 27 November 2020 – Lunch

Friday lunch or Saturday dinner? Surely these are the most atmospheric times to dine, but often for different reasons. Today I get to enjoy the intimate side of Friday lunch with my wife, rather than in connection with my work.

There are plenty of power lunches going on mind you. Though we are seated on a table of two above the majority of business lunches. Here we have a view of the good looking dining room that is full of architectural character in Cavendish House.

Gimlet has pedigree. The latest and greatest by Andrew McConnell, there is no doubt it has the bones to succeed. It’s down the road from Supernormal on the corner of Flinders Lane and Russell; it already has a charismatic feel; and it walks the difficult tightrope between intimacy, and a place to be seen.

Before I write about the high quality coming out of the kitchen, and also the bar, I need to point out that Gimlet is not at its peak from a service perspective. Again, it has the makings, but the execution is not quite there yet. There are some noticeable times where the floor is trying to communicate covertly, but is tripping up. A knowing of what to do, but not necessarily how to do it; a nervousness.

Not that service took anything away from our terrific lunch, playing high stakes, and placing our main bet on a half lobster, and a bottle of chardonnay from Burgundy. More of that a little later.

As we finished our Coutier champagne to celebrate being out for a Friday date, and 28 days of double doughnuts, we were presented with our first entree. We began with “seafood salad” which appealed to us, especially after learning it consisted of a Tiger prawn, pippies, and mussels. Those elements are delicious, but the peeled cherry tomatoes, heavy on flavour, are the other half of the equation, along with succulents that do a dual role of enhancing this dish, which is dressed beautifully.

Seafood salad, preserved tomatoes, coastal herbs

The gnocco fritto is superb too. Crisp pockets topped with bresaola, that already had us thinking about the next time we could drop by on the bar for a few snacks and cocktails. At this stage the charred romaine heart side came out.

It was a completely innocent mistake, but we had asked what would go well with the lobster as a side and this was the recommendation, which was a great suggestion, especially with the salty guanciale, and anchovy dressing. However, because it came out with entrees, the lobster wasn’t called away as a main and we waited for quite a while until our waitperson realised. Though, nothing in the world was wrong when the half Southern rock lobster landed on our table.

The selling point as a very expensive main to share was the saffron rice that surrounds and adds flavour to the wood roasted king of seafood. As a combination, the tomatoey saffron rice, along with the indulgent juicy lobster meat, is utterly gorgeous. Add in a 2015 Colin-Morey Bourgogne chardonnay and you have the Friday lunch dreams are made of.

Panettone, zabaglione, Christmas spices and grappa

As we reflected on our delicious savoury courses, we had some room for a shared dessert. The “Panettone, zabaglione, Christmas spices and grappa” seemed to jump off the menu as we enter the Christmas period. Once we had our first taste of the thick zabaglione and rich panettone we couldn’t stop until it was but a memory. Absolutely delicious.

Catherine’s mint tea, and my double espresso, were also good quality as you’d expect, but the extended time they took post dessert to hit the table was again a sign that there is some room to improve. It honestly didn’t matter because I’m already thinking about the next opportunity to get back to Gimlet. It was that great.

Gimlet at Cavendish House
https://gimlet.melbourne/
33 Russell Street, Melbourne
(03) 9277 9777
frontdesk@gimlet.melbourne