Author: bleekong

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Paringa Estate – Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula – Saturday 28 December 2019 – Lunch

Looking across a vineyard. This is my type of view as the backdrop to a wonderful meal. Like the ocean, or any large body of water, rolling greenery will never get tired.

It just isn’t possible to have a meal like this in the city. So while the prices are not cheap by any means, they are not inflated by the beauty of the vines, which came along far earlier. Today the logistics are in our favour because we are staying in an Airbnb close by, which also happens to be close to Nonna’s place for our little boy to be taken care of. It’s time to relax over a five course tasting menu at Paringa Estate.

Paringa has been one of the best wineries in the Mornington Peninsula region for many years, and the restaurant has gone from strength to strength. Catherine dined here with family a few years ago, and I’ve wanted to give it a try for myself ever since. With restaurants like Laura, Port Phillip and Kooyong Estate, Doot Doot Doot and sibling Rare Hare in the area, you need to be very good to figure. There are several others too, not to mention Ten Minutes By Tractor whose return is eagerly awaited.

Vegemite scrolls, and pigs in blanket

The city boy novelty of dining at a winery is only maintained when the food (and wine) are matched or bettered by the view. Delicious snacks act as reminders of not taking dining here too seriously, with a vegemite scroll, a pig in blanket (prosciutto with a fig filling), and “green eggs and ham”, also hinting at the strength of the food to come.

Green eggs and ham

Simon Tarlington’s version of Surf & Turf presents mussels topped with thinly cut corned wagyu. It is unexpectedly subtle, allowing the mussels to share the limelight with the wagyu.

Paringa ‘Surf & Turf’

Next we have a dish presented where the components are bursting from the plate. It could be an Olympic dish for the Australian’s with its green and gold flourishing from the use of asparagus and nasturtiums on the one hand; and lemon and egg on the other. While lemon hollandaise is a classic combination, the sweetness here was a little too much for me by the end, but Catherine was a big fan of the almost lemon curd like sauce.

Local Asparagus, Egg, Lemon, Almonds

By now we were finishing our initial glasses of white, having begun with a lesser known, but gorgeous champagne called ‘Esprit Nature’ by Giraud. Catherine’s flagship Paringa Single Vineyard Chardonnay is an excellent expression of the variety, and of what Mornington can produce. My Viognier is not one of the main Mornington varietals, but does have plenty of polish itself, and works well with its versatility. Next we tried the flagship Paringa Single Vineyard Pinot Noir. With both the lamb and duck courses to come we were enjoying a wine to behold, again a tradition of the region, and one which has been slowly coming closer to the top echelon with each year that passes.

Otway Ranges Lamb, Peas, Beans, Native Leaves

The lamb I’m speaking of is from the Otway Ranges, and is served with peas, beans and native leaves. The broth again shows subtlety, siding with the nicely cooked lamb well, and is added to by the fresh large peas that are a delight. It is delicate. The kind of dish that you want to go hand in hand with a great wine.

Mount Macedon Duck, Tomato, Cherry, Native Pepper

Another step in the flavour profile is added with the duck from Mount Macedon, which has skin to die for with the native pepper put to good effect. I can give or take the acidity in the tomato (which has been peeled!), but the sweetness in the cherry is the right stuff, and the sauce brings it together wonderfully. Again, not overdoing the number of components allows the wine to become an important element. It is impressive.

Meredith Sheep Yoghurt, Verjuice, Honeycomb, Plum

Being a fan of sweeter and/or chocolate desserts, seeing the description of our sweet course didn’t fill me with excitement, but honeycomb is something I love so all was not lost. I am glad I was wrong. At the end of a tasting menu, with a lot of great and complex dishes, having a soft dessert with flavoursome elements was a great way to finish. The verjuice used as a broth a nice touch, bringing grapes back into the picture. The restaurant should, however, consider some petit fours to finish, that could give sweeter-tooths a bit more sugar.

All along service had the usual semi-country charm. It was not perfectly attentive, but it was friendly and professional enough to meet the mark. The sommelier today (Nick) was particularly helpful and fun, enjoying a chat about the wines and the history of Paringa, which always adds something to a winery visit. He works the cellar door tastings too, and would be an excellent host.

While the expense doesn’t make Paringa accessible frequently, it is an exceptional place to spend an afternoon overlooking the vines, and eating and drinking some of the best quality there is on offer on the Peninsula.

Paringa Estate Winery & Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Coffee in Cremorne and surrounds – my guide – updated November 2023

I could count twenty places to get coffee within a ten minute walk of where I live.  An extra ten minute walk and you have many, many more. As I sit here, there are more than ten in Cremorne and that is not counting those on the border (being Church Street and Swan Street).

I predominantly work from home and that gives me the ability to spend inordinate amounts of time at cafes in my area, normally working, sometimes observing. My favourite cafes get to see my family often, and we have introduced tens of people to most of these venues.

Link to map

Coffee is a love of mine, but I am far from an expert. In my mid-twenties I went from being a milk based coffee person, with at least two sugars, to focussing on black coffee with no sugar. The transition took close to a year. There is nothing wrong with milk in coffee, but it does introduce an imperfection to a complex drink. It is no different to adding tonic to gin, but I do like gin and tonic.

If I can indulge a little further. The proliferation of single origin coffee is especially easy for wine drinkers to understand. You take a fruit and put it in a different location, with different soil, weather conditions, different plant age, and then have different methods of picking, washing and drying. You get a different result, and it can be subtle or obvious. If you add sugar or liquid other than neutral water, you are reducing the impact of the above factors. As a result, most good cafes these days offer a single origin for black coffee drinkers and a blend for coffees with different types of milk. For me, espresso (usually a double) is king, but a long black (not full to the brim, but a little more extracted than espresso with a dash of hot water) is a good coffee to sit on while working, or in a social setting.

In summer, I mix between hot and cold. While I was originally tied to a double espresso over ice as the main option, these days I have changed my preference to cold brews where good ones are available.

So, in my patch of Cremorne/Richmond, what are my favourite cafes for coffee?

Note: a lot has changed in 3 years since I last updated this guide! I am adding to it, but need some more time. The map is current as of November 2023 though!

Link to the map

Top 10 (in no particular order)

Top Paddock

Laptop parking is rarely a good looking feature of a café customer, but for me it is a necessary evil. Putting aside the terrific, consistently well made, black coffee (normally with a choice of two single origins), Top Paddock is a café dream. For years the food has been at the top of café fare in Melbourne, the staff have good longevity, and there are heaps of nooks and crannies to keep things interesting. Laptop parking on the coffee bar is gold because I’m not taking up extra space, but it has a comfortable amount of bench space, and hooks under the bar for your jacket. The choice of single origins these days comes from Seven Seeds, and used to come from Square One (both of which have merit), and ninety percent of the time I recognise the barista. The staff have a good balance of being friendly, recognising a familiar face, without making me feel too regular. This is one of the best in Melbourne.

@toppaddock

Website

A previous review

 

Pillar Of Salt

There was a time where Pillar Of Salt attracted a decidedly more South Yarra crowd, but things have settled down somewhat. This is one of the few cafes I go to where long ago I forgot about the distributor of the coffee, and the type of machine, and just enjoy consistently well made coffee. A lot has changed since the pandemic, but the staff are always friendly and do a terrific job. My wife loves their prana chai, and that led to it becoming a key takeaway venue. The food here is top quality; close to the level of Top Paddock. Life is good at Pillar Of Salt.

@pillarofsaltcafe

Website

A previous review

 

Niccolo

One of Cremorne’s newest cafes, is currently my favourite for coffee close by. Since opening recently, Niccolo has gladly kept a regular roster of staff, and a few of the baristas are excellent in their craft, making the best of the equally excellent quality beans. The team both in the front, and in the warehouse, are great for a chat too. If you’re in New York, go and have a look at another place where Niccolo’s beans are utilised at sister cafe, Ground Support, in Soho.

@niccolocoffee

Website

Axil

In pretty much direct competition with Pillar (especially for us for a number of reasons, including both being on Syd’s childcare route), I must say that the coffee is a very high standard at Axil, and I tend to buy my beans here. Catherine used to drop by on her way to her old work and has gotten to know the staff, who have been present for several years, suggesting a good place to work. It is rarer that we eat here, but that is not a reflection of the menu, which has been great on those rare occasions.

@axilcoffeeroasters

Website

Tarts Anon

How lucky do we continue to feel in calling Tarts Anon a fellow Cremunian? It is the most exceptional tart focussed (only tarts!) place I’ve come across. The coffee is normally excellent too, especially when made by Carolena. I think it was Xavier who once told me to put the savoury tart in the microwave for 20 seconds (not long enough to impact the custard top layer) and I have had one a week for lunch ever since. The dessert tarts are most popular though, and with my diverse tastes the monthly menu refresh is perfect, though gladly some of the signatures feature most months of the year.

@tarts_anon

Cheeky Monkey

Cheeky Monkey is my place for standard, well made coffee. Neighbouring a flower shop (Glasshaus), the newer digs (now several years old) are warm and homely. There is heaps of room on the coffee bar to comfortably sit and occasionally watch the people and traffic go by, and I find I can normally get a spot even though it is usually busy. There are also several different areas, front, back and in between, that keep things interesting. The staff seems to stay regular. The coffee is a blend, but is well made and consistent. Don’t worry about the slight film that seems to come with the long black as it makes no difference to the taste, but can deter on presentation.

Website

A previous review

Midi

Tucked away behind the Corner Hotel on Wangaratta Street, Midi feels like a bit of a secret. As if Richmond is a soap opera, that secret has got out, because more often than not there is a line out the door for very good coffee, and some nice treats too. It is a bit further afield for me, but if I’m on Swan Street, there is a good chance that I’ll go that bit further to indulge.

@midi.3121

Lumberjack

Irene, barista and owner of Lumberjack, makes excellent coffee and cold brew. While we used to go weekly at my old workplace, I still occasionally go out of my way just for coffee here, or to catch up with the old gang for lunch. My affiliation leads me to write about Lumberjack, but it is definitely over twenty minutes walk away for me!

Website

A previous review

Penny For Pound

Our favourite nearby bakery is Penny For Pound and their coffee is more than worthy of this list. Having now moved from the quaint, out the back space of recently closed Mayday, PFP’s quality is outstanding from croissants to sausage rolls to doughnuts to gourmet singular dessert offerings, and there’s not many times we don’t leave with a coffee too.

@pennyforpound

Veneziano

Back in the day when I used to write about every meal I had, Veneziano would have been an instant review. It is a superb cafe weather for a quick, excellent coffee, or a longer lingering lunch (or breakfast). It is a place that feels comfortable. It is too far from me in relative terms to ever become a regular, but if we are shopping at Vic Gardens or in the area, we often are happy to detour. The offering of beans is diverse and fulfilling too.

@venezianocoffeeroasters