Gertrude Street

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Marion – Fitzroy – Saturday 3 December 2016 – Lunch

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Roast chicken and Andrew McConnell. Anyone who belittles the virtues of chicken has not tasted perfect roast chicken. There was a time where chicken was plain Jane. Go to Marion and a half roast chicken is anything but that!

The complication (besides salmonella) when cooking chicken is the fact that it is so often overcooked that we all believe it shouldn’t be soft and moist. We overcook it, bringing out extra salt in the skin, that compensates for some of the flavour lost as the chicken dries out. Then we cover it with any sauce to compensate, and have each mouthful with potatoes of some description.
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What is difficult to explain is why every time I eat chicken at one of McConnell’s restaurants, whether it be Cutler, or Luxembourg, or here at Marion, it is far better than the rest. Chicken, if nothing else, is certainly not new. It has been around. Why does it seem so complicated normally?

I’m not a chef, and I haven’t done food science in a Heston type manner, so I won’t be answering any of my own questions here. All I know is that you can come to a wine bar on Gertrude Street that serves beautiful quality food, along with interesting wine, and a damn fine roast chicken.

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The space is comfortable in the way a crowded, people filled space can be when everyone is having a good time. Service keeps to that script with good ability and reasonable attentiveness. Even our starter of peas, broadbeans, scamorza cheese and pistachios is amazing, almost impossible to set aside to wait to eat with our chicken and chips. Unable to help ourselves, we also tucked into dessert in the form of lemon tart with strawberries and basil. The pastry was slightly sweetened to counteract the savoury quality of the basil with a balanced curd that had us reaching for more.
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Almost genius is the fact that we are sitting in a restaurant that is literally next door to Andrew’s flagship, Cutler and Co, which continues to thrive, but could be miles away for all we know. The two are as separate as if they were in different suburbs. That naturally makes dining in them completely different experiences, making dining in one today, and the other tomorrow, absolutely no issue whatsoever. It goes without saying that this is far more lucrative than merely creating another branch.

While I think Marion might be close to genius, I am positive McConnell is pretty much there. Try the chicken.

Marion Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Gertrude Street Enoteca – Fitzroy – Saturday 4 July 2015 – Lunch

IMG_3878Reminders of Italy are not difficult to find in Melbourne. In many ways, Melbourne could lay claim to being one of the most Italian places outside of Italy. Gertude Street Enoteca is not classically reminiscent though of an Italian wine shop and bar.

Not that it is trying to be Italian. This is a place that features the ingredients, the techniques, but is quintessential modern Melbourne. This local take has been around for years but the only time I’ve tried Brigitte Hafner’s food is at a winery in Red Hill over summer.

It is cold, bitterly cold today, and winter has come. Sitting next to Catherine on the banquette at Gertrude Street is warming and comfortable. There before us are many wine friendly lunch dishes on offer, and more importantly, several expertly chosen wines by the glass. There is no rushing around by the staff, not to say that service is slow, just assured. Not long after ordering we have our carefully selected glasses of wine, and shortly after that we have a couple of dishes to share.

Gravlax at Gertrude Street Enoteca

Gravlax

Today we are drinking from the riches of Burgundy. Catherine with a chardonnay; me with a pinot noir. As you would expect from a revolving list of twenty wines, you really cannot put a foot wrong when it comes to wine. We share the gravlax, and a salumi platter. Both very reasonably priced, the salumi selection features sausage, a softer salumi like mortadella, and mild salami. Served with pickles, and giving fresh bread, the thin slices of meat are simplicity at its best.

The gravlax is still reasonably simple bistro food, but again is perfect. The salmon is bright and enticing, but shares centre stage with fluffy dill cream cheese, both enhanced by the classic additions of capers and extra thin pickles.

Pear and frangipane tart

Pear and frangipane tart

Relaxing here with a great glass of wine and sharing delicious ultra wine friendly dishes is something we could get used to doing. With no immediate plans for a trip to Europe, we may have to come back sooner rather than later.

Rather than cutting today short we decide to stay for dessert. There are several options with some tarts, cakes, and pastries. We choose the pear and frangipane tart and we chose well! It is perfectly executed, the quality of the pastry, slightly sweeter than usual, particularly good. Impressively there is a mini Synesso machine and the espresso is a good quality.

As we step out the door we wonder why we have left the comforting indoors on this terribly cold day. While there would ordinarily be an opportunity to browse at the diverse offering of retail along Gertrude Street, today we hardly make it past Belle’s Hot Chicken before we scurry to the car. Maybe we’ll have another wine next time around.

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