Emu

I had booked Benchwarmer several weeks in advance to try before a show. We were only there for a short amount of time. The whole experience was confusing. When we arrived, we were immediately asked if we were there for “the event”. We looked blankly and said, “No, we’ve got a booking for two people”. We were led to a table out the back, right in front of the kitchen window.

Once we had moved from the rather uncomfortably placed table, we were told tonight’s menu was very restricted because of an event (“the event!”) In actual fact, the menu was completely different and ridiculously brief. We’d made a booking several weeks before but had not been notified of the change, which was incredibly disappointing. We did get an apology the next day in response to my slightly irate email, and it was sincere and well written.

With all of this threatening to derail our dinner before the show, we decided to have a look around West Melbourne to quickly find somewhere else. We came across Whitebark, a great looking, small venue with a long rectangular bar dotted with some bar stools, and a few smaller tables placed towards the back. We were greeted professionally by the friendly staff behind the bar, one of whom is the main person serving.

The only other person behind the bar is doing the cooking, with no verbal interaction with customers, though not in an unfriendly way. We were told that the premise of the bar is to serve Australian and New Zealand ingredients, play Australian New Zealand music, and serve Australian and New Zealand drinks. The menu is not necessarily what I would say is approachable, but if you give your trust to the chef, you’ll be rewarded with some great diversity of unusual flavors and contrasts.

For example, the emu dish earlier being made in front of us looked delicious, but is one that not everyone would be keen to try upon reading the menu. It is rubbed with bush tomato and ultimately torched with a flame briefly, keeping the emu extremely tender, but adding that beautiful, fiery flavour. Then there’s a “green pea brick”, which, again, we needed a description of prior to putting our trust in the chef to have a go. It is absolutely delicious. Split green peas have been cooked, then pressed into a brick, before being scattered with herbs. Next, we tried the barra skewers. Deboned and diced Barramundi is combined with other ingredients, and turned into a fish cake like texture, before being skewered and grilled again. Another great dish, but it did leave a lasting impression on us, acting as a date-night warning!

As we went to the Ball Park Music concert (an Australian band), we could still taste the barra, but it was worth it. As a finale, we had some blue cheese, which is served with some roasted grapes, and some local jam. A touch earlier, we tried the tart covered with local bush tomatoes that have been preserved. There’s some novelty shown, but the chef has a knack for beautiful combinations of flavours.

On the drinks front, the wines by the glass list has some delicious options. My Roussanne blend with some Grenache Blanc (by Riley Harrison) was so good I went back for a second glass when I would normally try something else. Catherine had a Chardonnay (by Small Wonder in the Tamar Valley) that was equally well chosen. I went on to try the orange Viognier (by Honky Chateau), that was also superb. I must admit I can’t remember trying wines from any of these producers previously.

We like places like Whitebark. They’re growing custom through excellence in what they provide, as opposed to being a large enough venue that word of mouth will necessarily spread like wildfire. Tonight, there were a number of places available on the bar, but it feels quite full, and people are enjoying a few drinks and a few nice dishes from the chef. There’s a good atmosphere and vibe.

I find that the service, whilst there’s only one main server, is enough. An extremely capable individual, there’s almost not a time where we need to look up to gain attention amongst twenty or so other diners. It’s a wonderful wine bar that you’d love to have down the street. We had come across town for Benchwarmer. And whilst we understand the food on a normal night is supposed to be excellent there, there is no way we would cross town to return again. Serving from the heart, we would definitely cross town to return to Whitebark.

Whitebark
https://whitebarkwine.bar
313 Victoria Street, West Melbourne
Mon; Wed-Fri 4pm-11pm
Sat-Sun 12pm-11pm
drink@whitebarkwine.bar
0493 028 334

Our third time in the hallowed dining room of Attica feels more comfortable. We know certain aspects will take care of themselves. The heights of attentive service are assured, and we have already long since paid for the food, which is required upon booking.

Whilst comfortable, there is certainly no feeling of “been there; done that” whatsoever. Part of the script is to continue to evolve and change, and the native Australian ingredients are probably no more prevalent in everyday dining than they were the last time we dined here in 2016. There is always intrigue in the dishes to come.

As I write, I realise that already more than three weeks has passed since our experience, and yet much of it is more vivid than normal dining, because it is so unique. Four hours passes effortlessly, with the only confrontation the occasional ingredient which especially puts Catherine on the back foot.

An example is the parfait, which in this case lives up to its French meaning. You don’t need to look far to find someone who is a bit hesitant to eat liver. So what’s the consensus on Emu liver? Utterly exceptional and my favourite dish of the evening!

The wine is delightful throughout the evening, but the kitchen remains easily the star of the show, and there is some theatre here. Later in the evening, the now usual foray into the back courtyard reveals a camp setting this time around, with the most delicious Basque cheesecake our first dessert. Cooked over the fire, it is still semi-molten, and lives in my memory so vividly I can almost taste it.

Crocodile ribs appeal in a manner hard to imagine. The look, texture, and taste, with the barbeque used to compelling effect, is just really cool. It’s a dish served early on, but I’m not pacing myself tonight, and every piece of flesh is valuable. The wattle dahl is just the same. I’m not leaving a trace.

The final savoury course is another winner, but it is difficult to pick my favourites after the parfait. Here we have a skewer of delicately treated kangaroo, served with frites, béarnaise (Aussie style with local thyme), and a rich pepper sauce too. There’s a spray bottle of vinegar for the frites for obvious reasons. It is so very good. My wish is that in some later stage of life we go to the local pub for kangaroo almost this good, instead of cow.

From interesting, difficult to ordinarily obtain Rose Champagne by Pierre Paillard, to 2013 Lethbridge ‘Allegra’ Chardonnay, to 2021 Jasper Hill Shiraz, there is exceptional wine by the glass to suit any palate, and it is possible to have glasses for less than $20 if you like, or even to try some half glasses. The sommerlier does a superb job, and assisted us several times. Showing an interest always helps.

Attica is expensive. It is a tribute to the restaurant that we’ve been three times and couldn’t imagine not continuing to go back. It is not comfort food, and does not remind us of travel and holidays. It does however make me somehow feel more connected with Australia. How beautiful that a New Zealander writes a menu, and his team execute it impeccably, and it takes you to a place you already live in.