I live in the little pocket of Cremorne, which is bordered by Richmond, Burnley and South Yarra (plus Melbourne Park). Cremorne is best known for its growing population of office workers, incredible level of construction and development, and the Nylex Clock.
Less known is the fact that one side of Swan Street, and one side of Church Street is in Cremorne, and it has the same postcode as Richmond and Burnley. This means as well as some great finds internal to the suburb, there’s a lot to be found on the boundary.
While I love to walk lengthy distances, I really am most familiar with this north-west part of greater 3121. So I’ll start nearby and branch out with my favourite restaurants, bars, pubs, and don’t forget there’s a few things to see and do nearby too!
Inner Cremorne
Cherry Tree Hotel
The Cherry Tree is not just at the heart of Cremorne, it is the heart of Cremorne. There is a uniqueness to this pub, which showed extra love during the pandemic, but has always been the perfect local. There’s some good specials during the week, solid offerings of the pub classics, a diverse range of beers on tap that rivals the best pubs in Melbourne, a pool table, pinball, NBA Jam, and a terrific outdoor area on Balmain Street. Trivia Tuesday is a neighbourhood fave as well.
Lilac Wine Bar
I’ve recently written about Lilac, which has an outstanding offering of wine friendly and interesting dishes, the signature chicken mousse eclair, woodfired sourdough that is worth the trip itself, and a wine list that balances on price and has a mix of crowd pleasers and those that please winos like me (aka wine snobs!) It must be going well, because Thursday lunch has just begun too.
Frederic
As if on a walking tour, the last stop on Stephenson Street is Frederic. It’s a little bit fancy, but also works in weekday specials to be an option for locals regularly, and the happy hour is terrific value (based on today’s now accepted prices!) I’ve never had an average meal here. The modern French style is a feature of Reymond family venues, and it is far better than solid, with smacks of flavour, and a bar that has most of what anyone could ask for.
I finally got around to writing about Frederic in detail and you can access my review here.
Tarts Anon
How lucky do we continue to feel in calling Tarts Anon a fellow Cremunian? It is the most exceptional tart focussed (only tarts!) place I’ve come across. The coffee is normally excellent too, especially when made by Carolena. I think it was Xavier who once told me to put the savoury tart in the microwave for 20 seconds (not long enough to impact the custard top layer) and I have had one a week for lunch ever since. The dessert tarts are most popular though, and with my diverse tastes the monthly menu refresh is perfect, though gladly some of the signatures feature most months of the year.
Niccolo
One of Cremorne’s newest cafes, is currently my favourite for coffee close by. Since opening recently, Niccolo has gladly kept a regular roster of staff, and a few of the baristas are excellent in their craft, making the best of the equally excellent quality beans. The team both in the front, and in the warehouse, are great for a chat too. If you’re in New York, go and have a look at another place where Niccolo’s beans are utilised at sister cafe, Ground Support, in Soho.
Coe & Coe
The panini here is great for lunch, and I normally go with the standard, which has prosciutto, mozzarella, and pesto. The coffee is a good standard too, and the street art is fantastic, changing every now and then, with a basketball ring to shoot some hoops.
La Manna & Son
While we’d love if LMS was as extensive on the grocery aspect as South Yarra, the paninis, coffee and other offerings are a high standard, with lots of comfortable space to sit in and enjoy. This cafe is intensely busy at lunch, but wait times are kept to a minimum with a huge staff, and the Saturday opening now is helpful for locals.
Cremorne Boundary
Top Paddock
As we reach the boundary of Cremorne, the best cafe in the area is easily Top Paddock, which continues to be exciting all round. The single origin coffee options are terrific (often expertly made by Hariko), and the signature offerings, and seasonal dishes from the kitchen always have restaurant quality presentation, and loads of flavour. Summer time use of the park opposite is a feature we’d love to see back again.
Pillar of Salt
This was the place where we received the most comfort during the pandemic, and I wrote some reflections at the time. While most of the staff have changed since, with a variety of reasons, the new staff are still top quality, and the kitchen continues to pump out great cafe fare (especially if the Pies have won for Tim over the weekend, which lately seems constant including the Flag!) Caroline, Tony and the other baristas do a terrific job, and the consistency of my long blacks is something that cannot be dismissed.
Axil
In pretty much direct competition with Pillar (especially for us for a number of reasons, including both being on Syd’s childcare route), I must say that the coffee is a very high standard at Axil, and I tend to buy my beans here. Catherine drops by on her way to work and has gotten to know the staff, who have been present for several years, suggesting a good place to work. It is rarer that we eat here, but that is not a reflection of the menu, which has been great on those rare occasions.
Hugo’s
Going towards the northern border of Cremorne, but in this case, on the southern border of Richmond, Hugo’s is this part of town’s answer to the hugely successful Hector’s Deli, closer to the Vic Gardens corner. Hugo’s executes each of their offerings with as much flavour and quality as you can pack into a toastie or sanga. I’m a big fan of the breakfast muffin.
Cheeky Monkey
When I’m on Swan Street, which is very regularly, this is the place to stop for a quick coffee, or take away. The chefs are always dishing up good quality, but relatively standard cafe fare, with the 6am opening time perfect for early trips when you need a bacon and egg roll to start proceedings. I’d label this the most versatile cafe offering in this part of 3121.
Tartine
Across the side street from Cheeky Monkey, Tartine is one of the newer kids on the block, and is part of the latest rennaissance in Swan Street. The French style of pizza / sandwich comes with an indulgent variety of ingredients, and often it is hard to go past the crab. The price point is reasonable enough to allow multiple visits too, depending on how deeply you indulge in the wines.
Hochi Mama
There are regular occasions where I have a hankering for the modern Vietnamese of Hochi Mama. Here it is possible to have a couple of simple dishes for lunch, like the superb spring rolls and rice paper rolls. Equally you can indulge in a lot more, and it is all great. I find Hochi is good to often walk-in without a booking, can suit a group, and always has some atmosphere.
Eazy Peazy
Across the road, Eazy Peazy first attracted me with a fabulous yakitori out the front during the pandemic. There are some excellent lunch offers here, and it suits a group well. As the prices get a bit more serious at dinner, the quality shines through, attracting a regular clientele, and creating a busy atmospheric vibe.
Close to Cremorne
Waygood
Unsure of why the name was changed from Saint Urban, Waygood has (besides the name change) been a staple on the block east of the Swan and Church intersection, for over a decade. The bistro vibe is followed through with dishes that can form a long dinner, or quick (but luxurious) lunch, with a wine or two as standard.
Future Future
I must admit there are a range of idiosyncracies to Future Future that don’t suit my organised nature, but once you get to know the fact you can only get ramen at lunch, and that the restaurant seems closed a lot, you simply get used to very high quality modern Japanese that is as versitile as it is delicous. The lunch deal is attractive, and at dinner you can relax over several courses and really dig in. There are so many good dishes that I cannot seem to try everything I want each time I go.
Clover Wine Bar
While my personal jury is out on Clover, I know enough people who have had an excellent experience that I want to include it here, and monitor with future visits. Lately the attractiveness of Lilac has meant we haven’t been back since a rainly Sunday in the third week where by coincidence more wines had been taken off the by the glass list than were on it, but the food had some pizzaz, and the intriguing uniqueness of the wine offerings should have enthusiasts learning some new tricks.
Union House
There have been several phases in the evolution of Union House, and I’ve enjoyed them all. I’m pleased that it has now settled into a pub with good differentiated quality pub dishes, and is a comfortable place to go whether on street level, in the dining room upstairs, or the terrace.
Baby Pizza
Everything that Lucas Group does is good, or even better, and Baby Pizza has become a staple for us. It is one of those venues that we go to so often the excitement has worn off, but it continues to attract us for lunch, dinner, takeaway, and a drink in the sunny front courtyard.
Some Cremorne / Richmond Favourites
Bakers
Oh Swan Street Patisserie, we will never forget you! Luckily we still have Cremorne Street Bakers just around the corner, and the selection never fails to deliver, whether for a savoury dinner, a cheeky brownie, gingerbread for Christmas, and cupcakes galore. Swan Street Patisserie has been replaced by Co.Bake Space, which does some incredibly popular pop-ups, and cakes made to order.
Our favourite though must be Penny For Pound. Having now moved from the quaint, out the back, of recently closed Mayday, PFP’s quality is outstanding from croissants to sausage rolls to doughnuts to gourmet singular dessert offerings.
@cremornestreetbakers @pennyforpound @cobakespace
Ice Cream / Gelato
For long time reasons I hold Messina in great esteem, and I just love the story of this gelato shop from Darlinghurst. Equally delicious (especially for honeycomb) is Piccolina. The best idea is to decide for yourself by trying 3 flavours at each on a nice afternoon, or by getting a takeaway tub!
@gelatomessina @piccolinaglateria
Provisions
For fish and other seafood (including takeaway fish and chips, or dining in the restaurant) you can’t go past Richmond Oysters which we visit at least once a week. Around the corner is a fabulous butcher (that also has some great lunch options) in Bertie’s, where we also visit regularly, including Thursday’s when they generally get some quality lamb coming in. There is nothing but quality here.
For the best booze, Blackhearts & Sparrows is the place for a great range of wine, and craft beers, with some terrific service.
@richmondoysters @bertiesbutcher @blackheartswine
Shopping
Some of our go-to gift shops have shut over the years, but Avenue Bookstore is great for gifts, cards, and they’ll order you any book they don’t already have in their extensive collection. Ben’s $2 Plus is an icon of the area, and incredibly handy for all sorts of reasons.
Entertainment
From my first concert in Melbourne twenty years ago, to the modern day, the Corner Hotel continues to deliver a tremendous array of bands. There’s also a atmospheric rooftop to enjoy before and after a show.
Obviously, Melbourne Park is a short walk away so for pre-game / show venues, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink. All of the MCG, Rod Laver Arena, John Cain Arena, and AAMI Park, are a short walk, and even Sidney Myer Music Bowl. The other local attractions include the Botanic Gardens, Tan running track, and the park alongside the Yarra River.
Transport
There are several good options to get to Cremorne. My favourite is to walk along the Yarra from the city, or via the MCG. The train line handily has several through Richmond station, and a few of those stop at East Richmond too. Tram wise you can take the 70 along Flinders Street, which goes all the way past Melbourne Park, and then Swan Street. Of course, taxis, Ubers, and driving, are fine options too.
Questions and comments!
One of the reasons I write is because I love the hospitality industry, and love talking about it. If you have any suggestions, questions, or comments, I’d really appreciate if you added them here, or in one of my instagram posts @blksfoodblog
I have never accepted a free meal, or any other gratuity, so my views are always completely my own, and free of any conflict of interest. I mainly write about higher end experiences lately, and if a review helps you, please share it with your friends, and follow my blog if you like.
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