Yellowfin Tuna

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Audrey’s – Sorrento, Victoria – Friday 22 April 2022 – Dinner

We like to be organised and we are not huge risk takers when it comes to choosing a venue. As we walk through the plush surroundings of the newly renovated Continental in Sorrento we feel like astronauts in outer space. It almost is as if we are walking in moon boots.

To make matters more surreal, the first person we see at the pass is Scott Pickett. I’ve never met him, but having been to so many of his restaurants I can’t help but say “Scott” like an old friend and extend my hand. We explain that we really enjoy his menus, especially at Matilda, and that we were on the wait list tonight and got the call up only a few hours prior.

We were going to come to Audrey’s anyway, and try for the bar, but we really didn’t think we’d get in so our mindset was more fancy pub menu downstairs rather than a $150 per head tasting menu. Seated in a luxurious restaurant, Catherine on a gorgeous banquette, we are looking around like we had not seen a fine diner before.

We settle as we sip on our glasses of Tattinger Champagne and familiarise ourselves with the tasting menu to come. Snacks arrive in the form of bbq abalone, Coopers Island oysters with finger lime, and mussel escabeche. The abalone stands out for its boldness, avoiding its inherently chewy nature, showing real adventure by the kitchen.

As part of the snacks the baguette is also outstanding alongside three butter options. Next comes along the spanner crab crumpet. I have come to realise that an extremely large number of fine diners are serving spanner crab, and to be completely open, I will order it almost every time. The subtlety of the crab needs to be honoured, and in this case, while the crumpet is delicious, it is also delicate enough to not overpower. The eel reminds Catherine of our meals at Lake House. We are starting to relax on this adventure.

We are looking forward to a bit of a seafood extravaganza to come. For good measure we have thrown in the optional Great Ocean Road duck option later as a half serve each to try. The first of three seafood courses is delightful Yellowfin tuna under a sheet of glutinous shiso, with white radishes in the mix for both its flavour and texture.

By this stage we are enjoying a glass of Marc Rougeot-Dupin Bourgogne Chardonnay from Burgundy. Mornington Peninsula squid comes looking like finely handled fresh pasta. Alongside is the most deeply flavoured shiitake XO ragu, that is singularly incredible, but somehow enhanced with the squid. The combination shouts signature of the house for years to come, and perhaps is one to specifically ask for on future booking requests? Last of the seafood trio is King George whiting. Perfectly cooked, elegantly presented, this marriage of fish and butter sauce is long lasting and spectacular.

As we move to the duck I make sure I order the Eldridge Estate Pinot Noir quick smart. While there are mainly positives on the service, this is a restaurant in its infancy, with a lot of less experienced floor staff (though well trained and eager), and our first request for our second wine did go forgotten for our entire Yellowfin tuna course. Yes we are in Sorrento, but the tasting menu is expensive, so some minor critiques are not unreasonable. As the floor gets more used to the menu, and the expectations of guests, I expect their training and eagerness to translate to smoother service.

There is no critique regarding the duck from across the ditch mind you. The half serve is perfect for us with dessert and petit fours to come. Bathed in a good helping of flavoursome jus, and paired with cubes of golden plum, there is only contentment.

Lately I’ve found that restaurants are on script with dessert. The days of overly savoury offerings have subsided and dessert is once again a celebration of sweetness. Audrey’s vacherin of rhubard, apple and ginger, fits the modern script. It’s pretty, delicate, sweet, and nicely executed. Though petit fours in the form of jellies and truffles are definitely an indulgent treat in themselves, this dessert makes for a great ending to the main event.

There’s a feeling of excitement to have an opportunity to dine at Audrey’s at the last minute. There’s also a feeling of appreciation that what appears to be a powerhouse entertainment venue at the new Continental, also appears to have a marque dining venue that rivals anything on offer in the city. Maybe Society isn’t the biggest opening of the past 12 months afterall?

Audrey’s – https://thecontinentalsorrento.com.au/#audreys
1 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento
Lunch: Wed-Sun; Dinner: Thurs-Sat
+61359351250
bookings@thecontinentalsorrento.com.au

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Mr Wong – Sydney, City – Friday 3 April 2015 – Dinner

Steamed fish fillet with ginger and shallots

Steamed fish fillet with ginger and shallots

Hesitation at writing about restaurants happens to me from time to time, but not usually one as popular and great as this. It might be the night. Wet and gloomy, standing out in light rain waiting to enter the restaurant is not the most fabulous way to begin the evening. Several people in front of us in line just want to get through to the bar for a drink and are asking for tables later. Please just let us in!

Enter Mr Wong. Once greeted by one of the three or so maitre’d types we are quickly seated in what appears to be the last table for two in the restaurant which is gigantic. While the entrance, going up a small staircase, is well lit, almost like the red carpet at the Academy Awards, the rest of the restaurant is dark and intimate. It has typical industrial features but it’s hard to put your finger on the influences in the room and the decor such is the size and frenetic feeling.

Yellowfin tuna, kohlrabi, sweet wasabi, soy and ginger dressing

Yellowfin tuna, kohlrabi, sweet wasabi, soy and ginger dressing

The menu is diverse but whilst we are not strict Catholics, tradition wears many masks, and we are on a seafood diet for tonight. We start with the yellowfin tuna which melts in your mouth, only bettered with the delicious sweet wasabi which varied in its heat but those tastes with a bit more kick were amazing. The kohlrabi leaves reminded me of seaweed, but that might have been the soy and ginger dressing influencing my tastes.

For main we chose the blue cod fillets with ginger and shallots which had a light touch from the chefs, cooking the fish beautifully. The sauce tasted of the ingredients described, but was a subtle flavour, combining perfectly with the white fish. As a side we tried the very fresh asparagus, snap peas and broccoli with garlic and rice wine. This is an excellent vegetable dish which should be done more often. The light touch of the chefs again on show with perfectly cooked crisp vegetables in a sauce that provided a nice flavour but didn’t take away from the stars themselves.
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I was a little confused with dessert as the main aspect I felt like was the “green tea cream” which was not one of the obvious flavours. It also only said with “raspberries” but was actually presented as sorbet. Nonetheless the chocolate was deliciously rich; the sorbet balanced and technically perfect. It was a nice dish, but did leave me yearning for some sweet green tea.

The wine list is diverse and reasonably priced. I enjoyed the German riesling from Mosel by ‘Pauly’ for its lifted fruit, finishing with drying acid to balance. When matched with the Asian flavours and heat of the wasabi in the yellowfin tuna dish, it was particularly good. The Chablis on the list is also excellent.

Having settled in for the night it was more than possible to relax with the crowd fading away both figuratively and literally. The food had been fantastic, and without question we would go back for the meat based dishes. Service had also been quite good, especially considering the numbers being served. Tonight it felt like a challenge getting in to Mr Wong but once we did things quickly improved.

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