Richmond

Cremorne (and nearby Richmond) Guide
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Cremorne (and nearby Richmond) Guide

Click on the map to access all of the places listed below in this guide

I live in the little pocket of Cremorne, which is bordered by Richmond, Burnley and South Yarra (plus Melbourne Park). Cremorne is best known for its growing population of office workers, incredible level of construction and development, and the Nylex Clock.

Less known is the fact that one side of Swan Street, and one side of Church Street is in Cremorne, and it has the same postcode as Richmond and Burnley. This means as well as some great finds internal to the suburb, there’s a lot to be found on the boundary.

While I love to walk lengthy distances, I really am most familiar with this north-west part of greater 3121. So I’ll start nearby and branch out with my favourite restaurants, bars, pubs, and don’t forget there’s a few things to see and do nearby too!

Inner Cremorne

Cherry Tree Hotel

The Cherry Tree is not just at the heart of Cremorne, it is the heart of Cremorne. There is a uniqueness to this pub, which showed extra love during the pandemic, but has always been the perfect local. There’s some good specials during the week, solid offerings of the pub classics, a diverse range of beers on tap that rivals the best pubs in Melbourne, a pool table, pinball, NBA Jam, and a terrific outdoor area on Balmain Street. Trivia Tuesday is a neighbourhood fave as well.

@cherrytreehotel

Lilac Wine Bar

I’ve recently written about Lilac, which has an outstanding offering of wine friendly and interesting dishes, the signature chicken mousse eclair, woodfired sourdough that is worth the trip itself, and a wine list that balances on price and has a mix of crowd pleasers and those that please winos like me (aka wine snobs!) It must be going well, because Thursday lunch has just begun too.

@lilacwinebar

Frederic

As if on a walking tour, the last stop on Stephenson Street is Frederic. It’s a little bit fancy, but also works in weekday specials to be an option for locals regularly, and the happy hour is terrific value (based on today’s now accepted prices!) I’ve never had an average meal here. The modern French style is a feature of Reymond family venues, and it is far better than solid, with smacks of flavour, and a bar that has most of what anyone could ask for.

I finally got around to writing about Frederic in detail and you can access my review here.

@frederic_cremorne

Tarts Anon

How lucky do we continue to feel in calling Tarts Anon a fellow Cremunian? It is the most exceptional tart focussed (only tarts!) place I’ve come across. The coffee is normally excellent too, especially when made by Carolena. I think it was Xavier who once told me to put the savoury tart in the microwave for 20 seconds (not long enough to impact the custard top layer) and I have had one a week for lunch ever since. The dessert tarts are most popular though, and with my diverse tastes the monthly menu refresh is perfect, though gladly some of the signatures feature most months of the year.

@tarts_anon

Niccolo

One of Cremorne’s newest cafes, is currently my favourite for coffee close by. Since opening recently, Niccolo has gladly kept a regular roster of staff, and a few of the baristas are excellent in their craft, making the best of the equally excellent quality beans. The team both in the front, and in the warehouse, are great for a chat too. If you’re in New York, go and have a look at another place where Niccolo’s beans are utilised at sister cafe, Ground Support, in Soho.

@niccolocoffee

Coe & Coe

The panini here is great for lunch, and I normally go with the standard, which has prosciutto, mozzarella, and pesto. The coffee is a good standard too, and the street art is fantastic, changing every now and then, with a basketball ring to shoot some hoops.

@coeandcoeau

La Manna & Son

While we’d love if LMS was as extensive on the grocery aspect as South Yarra, the paninis, coffee and other offerings are a high standard, with lots of comfortable space to sit in and enjoy. This cafe is intensely busy at lunch, but wait times are kept to a minimum with a huge staff, and the Saturday opening now is helpful for locals.

@lamanna_and_sons_cremorne

Cremorne Boundary

Top Paddock

As we reach the boundary of Cremorne, the best cafe in the area is easily Top Paddock, which continues to be exciting all round. The single origin coffee options are terrific (often expertly made by Hariko), and the signature offerings, and seasonal dishes from the kitchen always have restaurant quality presentation, and loads of flavour. Summer time use of the park opposite is a feature we’d love to see back again.

@toppaddock

Pillar of Salt

This was the place where we received the most comfort during the pandemic, and I wrote some reflections at the time. While most of the staff have changed since, with a variety of reasons, the new staff are still top quality, and the kitchen continues to pump out great cafe fare (especially if the Pies have won for Tim over the weekend, which lately seems constant including the Flag!) Caroline, Tony and the other baristas do a terrific job, and the consistency of my long blacks is something that cannot be dismissed.

@pillarofsaltcafe

Axil

In pretty much direct competition with Pillar (especially for us for a number of reasons, including both being on Syd’s childcare route), I must say that the coffee is a very high standard at Axil, and I tend to buy my beans here. Catherine drops by on her way to work and has gotten to know the staff, who have been present for several years, suggesting a good place to work. It is rarer that we eat here, but that is not a reflection of the menu, which has been great on those rare occasions.

@axilcoffeeroasters

Hugo’s

Going towards the northern border of Cremorne, but in this case, on the southern border of Richmond, Hugo’s is this part of town’s answer to the hugely successful Hector’s Deli, closer to the Vic Gardens corner. Hugo’s executes each of their offerings with as much flavour and quality as you can pack into a toastie or sanga. I’m a big fan of the breakfast muffin.

@hugos_deli

Cheeky Monkey

When I’m on Swan Street, which is very regularly, this is the place to stop for a quick coffee, or take away. The chefs are always dishing up good quality, but relatively standard cafe fare, with the 6am opening time perfect for early trips when you need a bacon and egg roll to start proceedings. I’d label this the most versatile cafe offering in this part of 3121.

@cheekymonkeyrichmond

Tartine

Across the side street from Cheeky Monkey, Tartine is one of the newer kids on the block, and is part of the latest rennaissance in Swan Street. The French style of pizza / sandwich comes with an indulgent variety of ingredients, and often it is hard to go past the crab. The price point is reasonable enough to allow multiple visits too, depending on how deeply you indulge in the wines.

@tartine_bistro

Hochi Mama

There are regular occasions where I have a hankering for the modern Vietnamese of Hochi Mama. Here it is possible to have a couple of simple dishes for lunch, like the superb spring rolls and rice paper rolls. Equally you can indulge in a lot more, and it is all great. I find Hochi is good to often walk-in without a booking, can suit a group, and always has some atmosphere.

@hochi_mama

Eazy Peazy

Across the road, Eazy Peazy first attracted me with a fabulous yakitori out the front during the pandemic. There are some excellent lunch offers here, and it suits a group well. As the prices get a bit more serious at dinner, the quality shines through, attracting a regular clientele, and creating a busy atmospheric vibe.

@eazypeazymelb

Close to Cremorne

Waygood

Unsure of why the name was changed from Saint Urban, Waygood has (besides the name change) been a staple on the block east of the Swan and Church intersection, for over a decade. The bistro vibe is followed through with dishes that can form a long dinner, or quick (but luxurious) lunch, with a wine or two as standard.

@waygood.richmond

Future Future

I must admit there are a range of idiosyncracies to Future Future that don’t suit my organised nature, but once you get to know the fact you can only get ramen at lunch, and that the restaurant seems closed a lot, you simply get used to very high quality modern Japanese that is as versitile as it is delicous. The lunch deal is attractive, and at dinner you can relax over several courses and really dig in. There are so many good dishes that I cannot seem to try everything I want each time I go.

@future.future

Clover Wine Bar

While my personal jury is out on Clover, I know enough people who have had an excellent experience that I want to include it here, and monitor with future visits. Lately the attractiveness of Lilac has meant we haven’t been back since a rainly Sunday in the third week where by coincidence more wines had been taken off the by the glass list than were on it, but the food had some pizzaz, and the intriguing uniqueness of the wine offerings should have enthusiasts learning some new tricks.

@clover.wine

Union House

There have been several phases in the evolution of Union House, and I’ve enjoyed them all. I’m pleased that it has now settled into a pub with good differentiated quality pub dishes, and is a comfortable place to go whether on street level, in the dining room upstairs, or the terrace.

@unionhouserichmond

Baby Pizza

Everything that Lucas Group does is good, or even better, and Baby Pizza has become a staple for us. It is one of those venues that we go to so often the excitement has worn off, but it continues to attract us for lunch, dinner, takeaway, and a drink in the sunny front courtyard.

@babypizzeria

Some Cremorne / Richmond Favourites

Bakers

Oh Swan Street Patisserie, we will never forget you! Luckily we still have Cremorne Street Bakers just around the corner, and the selection never fails to deliver, whether for a savoury dinner, a cheeky brownie, gingerbread for Christmas, and cupcakes galore. Swan Street Patisserie has been replaced by Co.Bake Space, which does some incredibly popular pop-ups, and cakes made to order.

Our favourite though must be Penny For Pound. Having now moved from the quaint, out the back, of recently closed Mayday, PFP’s quality is outstanding from croissants to sausage rolls to doughnuts to gourmet singular dessert offerings.

@cremornestreetbakers @pennyforpound @cobakespace

Ice Cream / Gelato

For long time reasons I hold Messina in great esteem, and I just love the story of this gelato shop from Darlinghurst. Equally delicious (especially for honeycomb) is Piccolina. The best idea is to decide for yourself by trying 3 flavours at each on a nice afternoon, or by getting a takeaway tub!

@gelatomessina @piccolinaglateria

Provisions

For fish and other seafood (including takeaway fish and chips, or dining in the restaurant) you can’t go past Richmond Oysters which we visit at least once a week. Around the corner is a fabulous butcher (that also has some great lunch options) in Bertie’s, where we also visit regularly, including Thursday’s when they generally get some quality lamb coming in. There is nothing but quality here.

For the best booze, Blackhearts & Sparrows is the place for a great range of wine, and craft beers, with some terrific service.

@richmondoysters @bertiesbutcher @blackheartswine

Shopping

Some of our go-to gift shops have shut over the years, but Avenue Bookstore is great for gifts, cards, and they’ll order you any book they don’t already have in their extensive collection. Ben’s $2 Plus is an icon of the area, and incredibly handy for all sorts of reasons.

@avenuebookstore

Entertainment

From my first concert in Melbourne twenty years ago, to the modern day, the Corner Hotel continues to deliver a tremendous array of bands. There’s also a atmospheric rooftop to enjoy before and after a show.

Obviously, Melbourne Park is a short walk away so for pre-game / show venues, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink. All of the MCG, Rod Laver Arena, John Cain Arena, and AAMI Park, are a short walk, and even Sidney Myer Music Bowl. The other local attractions include the Botanic Gardens, Tan running track, and the park alongside the Yarra River.

@cornerhotel

Transport

There are several good options to get to Cremorne. My favourite is to walk along the Yarra from the city, or via the MCG. The train line handily has several through Richmond station, and a few of those stop at East Richmond too. Tram wise you can take the 70 along Flinders Street, which goes all the way past Melbourne Park, and then Swan Street. Of course, taxis, Ubers, and driving, are fine options too.

Questions and comments!

One of the reasons I write is because I love the hospitality industry, and love talking about it. If you have any suggestions, questions, or comments, I’d really appreciate if you added them here, or in one of my instagram posts @blksfoodblog

I have never accepted a free meal, or any other gratuity, so my views are always completely my own, and free of any conflict of interest. I mainly write about higher end experiences lately, and if a review helps you, please share it with your friends, and follow my blog if you like.

benleekong.com bleekong.com wordpress.bleekong.com

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Here we go again

First time back at Mayday!

When restrictions eased we all wondered whether it was too soon, and whether we should venture out. I work in a field where the answer of “it depends” to problems with no clear answer is the primary reason I am employed. Like the nature of most complicated matters, the answer is best found with hindsight; the actual outcome.

If you ask someone from any other State or Territory of Australia, the answer as we approach the middle of July would be reasonably positive. For Melburnians, whatever the reason for the surge in cases, we know that easing restrictions certainly didn’t help. Did we venture out? A lot of us did.

Time goes quickly. On Monday 1 June, Catherine, Sydney, and I, did not immediately go to sit in a cafe. My conservative nature lends itself to making informed decisions, and I wanted to see what the coming weeks looked like. When cases continued to reduce, a few weeks later we started by going to Mayday on Wednesday 17 June. That is over two weeks of wanting to go and do something normal after 11 weeks of not having the option.

Croque Monsieur

There was a few reasons we started at Mayday. The first was having gone for takeaway coffee several times during stage 3 restrictions, I noticed how much effort was made for distancing and sanitation. The 20 person rule allowed Mayday to space even more than what is necessary, and Catherine and I had a very pleasant lunch with the usual excellent food and coffee that make Mayday one of my Richmond favourites. The flood gates had opened. For the next 3 weeks.

The next day I was at the Cherry Tree with old work colleagues, only two of which still work together, but we have a close knit group of friends now, and had spent several hours having virtual catch ups in the earlier 13 weeks. Through the years I have always loved this pub and its staff and clientele. During the height of restrictions it was a pillar of the Cremorne community, going above and beyond to be helpful, whether it was the deliveries of food and drinks with a free hand sanitiser (during the panic buying times), or just to put a smile on our faces with terrible onesies, or videos of their ute roaming the streets.

It was at this stage that I realised you still had to be careful in where you decide to go out and dine. We were eating outside, and people waiting for takeaways didn’t seem to understand what distancing is. It was a little disappointing having this insight into some attitudes.

Margherita at D.O.C.

On the Saturday (20 June) we were out doing some shopping and decided to go to Carlton. Initially we were headed for just gelato at Pidapipo, but it was getting on and we were a while from dinner, so we ended up with a mid-afternoon snack at D.O.C. sharing a margherita pizza. It brings up something I’ve noticed. Restaurant kitchens catering to less people has a tangible uptick in quality, even in situations where the quality is normally consistently very high like at D.O.C. The margherita pizza today was the best I’ve had from D.O.C. in Carlton or Mornington, and actually the best I can remember having in Melbourne. There is something in that.

Red Door Corner Store – out the back

The next day we met one of Catherine’s parent’s (mother’s) group couples, Aiofe and Jimmy, and their daughter, Saoirse, at Red Door Corner Store in Northcote. Again, this was a cafe we have been to multiple times that we trust to do the right thing. And they did. In fact the whole courtyard is not very large so our table of 6 was the maximum allowed out there. That was until two ladies (who knew better) came through the backdoor to sip on their takeaway coffees. Another small breach that the venue has little control of (they were asked to leave once staff saw, but we didn’t mention the numbers because we didn’t want to be confronting). Lunch was superb and our little boy Sydney, and Saoirse, had run of the courtyard!

Brisket burger at Red Door Corner Store

It was around this stage where some cracks were beginning to appear. We had a table of 5 booked for Sunday 28 June at The Lincoln Hotel (another trusted venue). One of my friends, living in the north-west, had started making gestures that he was uncomfortable to attend. In the end he decided not to come, and 4 of us met up for a long Sunday afternoon lunch, which included me indulging in the Sunday roast (pork belly). Like every venue I had been to, they did the right things, and the basic stuff like taking names on entry and having distanced tables and appropriate numbers, seemed second nature.

Sunday roast of the day at The Lincoln

However, the night before Catherine met up with the mums from her parent’s group and I was concerned to hear about some obvious and blatant breaches. Firstly, the rule of 20 within an enclosed space with a minimum of 4 square metres per person, was breached at least once (but possibly twice with the outside not distanced), and they had a table of 8 that was not split (the rule is no more than 6 for a table). Their names, incredibly, were not taken, and only the host who booked was recorded. It is not my place to mention the venue, but it is very disappointing.

Nice pizza here on Swan Street, but the rules still need to be followed

In what would become my last lunch out for some time, on Friday 3 July I met back up with most of the same old work friends at a new pizza place in Richmond. I’m not going to name the venue, but the pizza is excellent. I had done reconnaissance the week prior, having lunch at 2pm by myself to see what it was like. Knowing Friday is busy we made our booking early and had a table for 5. During lunch a walk-in group of around 5-6 people (I had my back to them) came in. Unfortunately this seemed to be a case of being polite over maintaining the rules.

The classic Shakshuka at Red Door Corner Store

The table was seated very close to our table, to the extent that the back of our chairs would be an inch from each other. It was uncomfortable in any situation, but with the distancing rules, it was stressful. A rational assessment of the numbers meant I wasn’t overly concerned, but I am someone who follows rules, and eventually we said something to the staff, but it had been a good 20 minutes. They moved the table as luckily some more space had opened up. I think Julie was counting the numbers inside every few minutes and arrived at there being about 19. Unfortunately, as we left we realised that the square metre rule only allowed 17, so they were well over for much of lunch. Yes, here is a new venue that is struggling to stay alive. The mental health of the owners and staff would be stretched. But distancing has never been about detection risk or policing has it? It is just a minimum standard.

The postcode lockdown had started the day prior, and the North Melbourne extension would begin two days later. By Thursday 9 July we would be back in stage 3 restrictions. The takeaway-way-of-life would recommence and Catherine and I would be eating Chin Chin at home on a Saturday night, rather than be with friends as we had planned weeks prior.

In the 3 weeks of actually going and sitting in a pub, cafe, or restaurant, I would see even the simple rules be breached. I wouldn’t say there was anything substantial in itself with any of these breaches. The issue is that in a short period of time we had seen most rules being overlooked, or flagrantly breached. Multiply that by our massive population and there is not just an issue in certain postcodes, or certain building structures. With this perspective it is hard for me to blame bad luck and circumstance on the growing numbers, and it is hard to disagree with some further stage 3 restrictions.