Flinders is my favourite town on the Mornington Peninsula. Outside of Portsea and Sorrento, it also seems to be the most expensive, attracting some of the galleries, restaurants, and other necessities of the wealthy. Mere mortals visit. Catherine and I visit often.
With Donna Maria “moving” (changing names, locations, and cuisines) we need a new go-to fine diner in Flinders. Having missed out on trying Moke with Downesy and Lisa a few times, Catherine and I booked well ahead to secure a table on this bright Sunday, at the start of what has ultimately been a very pleasant Autumn.
When Downesy and Lisa have a favourite we pay extra attention. They are globetrotting youngsters (well, younger than me!) who target both insanely good value fine diners, and insanely popular treats from NYC to Cape Town, to where they live in London. I’ve written about two recent meals with them at Polperro and Septime. If I’d organised myself better, on their recommendation we could have tried Pipis before it got so popular!
As we walk up to the restaurant it seems unassuming; a restaurant tucked away secretly in full view of the main drag, albeit at the top of the street. Inside it is warm and inviting. There is already a large table filling up towards the back, but at the front we are for a few moments alone on a comfortable table facing into the restaurant from the front window.
Moke does a tasting menu, running from snacks to dessert, for a very reasonable price. The modern Australian offerings utilise local produce, and are executed with skill by the kitchen, and presented beautifully.
Take the flathead surrounded by a shiny chickpea butter sauce, kaffir lime providing a punch of acid to cut through, and cuttlefish adding interest to the texture. Nothing detracts from the lightness of treatment to the flathead. It is a superb fish course.
The agnolotti is in a similar vein. Looking misleadingly simple, as pasta often can, anyone who has battled with its making knows this must be a specialty of the kitchen when enjoying the first bite to the last. Dressed in a light olive oil Hollandaise, and filled with potato, it is the right portion to leave me wanting more, but equally satisfied. Catherine’s gluten intolerance is also skilfully handled, but I have a few pangs of jealousy when figs feature in her alternative to my pasta.
Leaving room for dessert is a must but before that we have the main savoury course. Presented with pork served two ways, both fillet and shoulder, cauliflower puree, and a gorgeous jus, this is my type of finale. The side of herbed carrots gives some reprieve from the delightful richness of the other elements.
Earlier, snacks were more focussed on flavour than colour. I loved the salted fish croquette, which is saying something because it is hard for me to go past an ox tongue tartlet, and the raw fish taco was tremendous too.
Picking up the presentation game on the dessert, but not losing the flavour profile, is the smoked almond and Bosc pear cake, with generous dollops of pear puree and vanilla cream. Earlier the quince sorbet walks the balance between simple refresher, and something more interesting in itself.
Drinks wise, we liked our waitperson’s disclosure that Moke is looking to be part of the movement bringing back the pre-meal cocktail. It strikes me that the cocktail should be considered at all times through the course of the meal (and day, though perhaps wait until midday). I started off with a barrel-aged Negroni which is a novelty treat for a Negroni lover, and Catherine with classic cosmopolitan.
When it comes to wine, I think there is some work that could be done, but I respect Moke has restricted hours, and wine by the glass lists are fraught for small operators. In saying that, there is enough interest in the wines offered, particularly in the three reds, to keep me involved. The Beaujolais in particular acting as a standout. It is a bit of a secret that Gamay is a wonderfully underrated varietal. Not to mention the Pommery Champagne is a bit of a steal in relative terms.
Through the meal we got to know that the wife and husband combination in ownership is a big reason there is a homely vibe to Moke. The husband, Michael Cole, is humble but certainly carries a good conversation once engaged, and his wife runs the show on the floor, which was high quality, especially on the Peninsula. It’s a reminder of other couple run restaurants, and a reminder that there is still decent value to be had around the Peninsula so the hour long drive shouldn’t put anyone off.
Moke is no joke, utilises yokes, as good as the woke, the food is bespoke, superb for this bloke.
Moke
https://www.mokedining.com.au
60 Cook St, Flinders VIC 3929, Australia
Dinner Thu-Sun; Lunch Sat-Sun
Email hello@mokedining.com.au
Phone 0458 418 524
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