Parcs – Melbourne, City – Saturday 18 May 2024 – Dinner

Admitting that I’m confused about a tasting menu is not something I would ordinarily like to do. I feel I need to, as Parcs is the kind of place where what you’re eating makes sense, until you try to begin writing about it.

This is a tiny restaurant by CBD standards. I counted 22 chairs if you include the barstools, making for a warm and intimate room. Only a handful of staff is possible in such a small venue, and the concentration makes for excellent service. This is a model I really like.

The floor staff are complimented by the executive chef, Damien Neylon, who delivers around half of your courses. He’s not one to embellish but you can tell the pride and the deep consideration behind what is on your plate. The level of care extends to a wine list that is exemplary.

There is a strong and intentional theme here at Parcs. It’s new and with that comes a high degree of learning, which I believe will only make the menu stronger from this point. It is not perfect, but there are many excellent dishes, and no poor ones. The staff don’t speak about the theme of sustainability a great deal. Perhaps talking too much about sustainability would take away from the excellence in the ingredients and their treatment by the kitchen. I find the balance impressive.

An example of ingenuity comes in the form of beetroot that is treated like gravlax. There’s a familiarity in the snack though the beetroot itself is quite unique. Another highlight is sweet potato that somehow tricks the mind into thinking it is salmon. The crustacean sauce is incredibly delicious, and the accompaniments are novel, but somehow work. Those accompaniments are potato with bonito cured in juice pulp placed on top, in between lying the green leftover pulp that was used (direct from the local juice store), and some fermented potato, honey and garlic bread.

Even with the substantial amount of food there was no way I was leaving any of that potato bread, and we finished the savoury courses with beautifully cooked cockerel (young male chicken). At this stage there was equally no way I was leaving any of the substantial final course in the form of imperfect strawberries and rhubarb. The flavour packed strawberries must come into the kitchen resembling an ugly duckling, before they are marinated, and used to generously cover an oat meringue, with plenty of kefir cream thrown into the mix, along with kombucha scoby, which is the starter for turning sweetened tea into kombucha. There is a genuinely exceptional degree of experimentation here, and it rarely doesn’t deliver.

One dish that didn’t work for me, but was still enjoyable, was the tuna cured in bull kelp. It didn’t fall apart with that tenderness you often experience with high quality tuna, and the diced belly was not as flavoursome as I would expect. What did work for me was the wines we were trying. As if teasing me to try each wine by the glass, they seemed to be one-upping themselves. From a superb Aligote by Dubois Bernard et Fils, to a deeper and softer Chenin by Bobinet, followed by a Gamay by Chateau Cambon which is such an underrated varietal when well made, finishing with a Petit-Roy Pinot Noir from Burgundy. These are unashamedly fine French wines, well sourced by the restaurant, and all in keeping with the sustainability theme.

I feel like I’ve raved about Parcs. I believe it will get even better than the experience Catherine and I enjoyed. It would be great if it was just a little bit bigger for a casual wine and snack, but I think that is not the point. There is meaning and thought here, and the theme doesn’t dull the offering. In fact, the inventiveness feels like it partly relies on the limitations presented, and the intention to be completely seasonal and sustainable.

Parcs
https://parcs.com.au
198 Little Collins Street, Melbourne
Phone +61(3)99727015
info@parcs.com.au

BLK’s Melbourne Tips – City

BLK’s Melbourne Tips – City

Whether you have planned to the minute, or have a last minute night out in Melbourne, I’m always willing to help with suggestions. Normally this is reserved for long time friends and family, but having learned there can be a multitude of requests, instead I’m framing my tips with myself in mind. If you’re ever keen on some specific thoughts, all you need to do is provide a few boundaries and I’ll do my best to help.

Lobster at Gimlet

It’s naturally easier to get into the places I recommend below if you are planning a trip. There’s a misconception that you can’t do spontaneous, and that is wrong, as long as you are patient and have stamina. If you are willing to wait, and dine at less attractive times, you are bound to find an incredible experience along the way. Sometimes the wait allows you to find a great bar; sometimes dining early allows you to get on to the bar hopping earlier.

Normally I get asked for tips by visitors to this glorious city, and from those wanting a special experience, whether a date night, friends get together, or a celebration. On every single occasion I focus on the places that are favourites that I’ve visited multiple times, and those that are new that I’ve enjoyed very recently. Everyone loves anywhere that is shiny and new! So I think to myself, “where do I love to go?”

The easiest starting point centres around Flinders Lane, which may be renamed the avenue of champions one-day. There’s the pleasures of Nomad for any occasion, Hazel with similar standing (try the honey tart), and Supernormal too. The latter has improved the modern Chinese experience almost into a genre of its own, under Andrew McConnell’s adventurous and sure hand. One of the most exciting places to roll up to knowing that even without a booking it is probably only a matter of time before you can enjoy a lobster roll, and other indulgences, with a price-tag that is the opposite of cheap and cheerful. Here I’m always happy to be on the bar, or wherever I’m led by the front-of-house.

A little further down is yet another Andrew McConnell masterpiece. Here I’m talking about Gimlet, though some would instantly cast their minds to Cumulus Inc, and Cumulus Up, which are also great venues for a meal. Gimlet is a big deal, and screams “luxe” from the time you walk in, to the time you strut out. I personally wouldn’t hesitate to get here early or late without a booking to try my luck, knowing that down the road are several other great options anyway. These are my favourites on Flinders Lane, but I don’t need to be pressed to name a dozen others that are very good. A few in close proximity that are nice options for a group include the classic Chin Chin, Lucy Liu, Pastuso, and Lee Ho Fook.

Next a change of tact. One secret that I haven’t had to keep, because it is just not in people’s nature is this: 11.30am. That is the time you can rock up to Tipo 00 without a booking, and have one of the best plates of pasta in Australia, on the bar, and be done by 12.30pm (if you like). You can have coffee down the hill at Brother Buba Budan first (one of the long time coffee temples of Melbourne), or start with a well made espresso at the restaurant. If it’s not a work day you can have several courses and start with a negroni, and if it is you can keep it sensible. Yes, as much as a booking here is the preference, sometimes you wake up one morning and you feel like a midday spanner crab spaghettini right?

Next door to Tipo 00 is Osteria Ilaria which has a less informal vibe, but delivers on the Italian script without the lean to pasta (often there is only one). Up the hill is Kirk’s which I’ve always enjoyed outside between, or either side of a day out shopping in town. For my other favourite city Italian, it has to be Embla which is as much an unplanned place for a wine at the bar, as it has been host to long tables for lunch, and late plans for a dinner.

I’ve now had the privilege of dining at Aru twice, and I use that word purposefully, as this is a brilliant place to dine, albeit it is expensive. For modern Asian, whether on a date, or in a group, you cannot go wrong here. Very recently the head chef has changed, but I am confident the kitchen can carry on with the high standards, at least for now. Farmer’s Daughters upstairs is a great place to find a different experience focussed around showcasing a region of Victoria.

More down to earth, and less costly, is a trip to Operator Diner, which excels at doing the simple well, whether it is pancakes or a katsu sando. As I stroll around I often grab coffee at Duke’s, Industry Beans, and my favourite espresso is at Bench Coffee Co, which is often completed with a daquoise. Patricia serves exceptional coffee too, and the whole set up feels unique and local. Higher Ground is an all-day venue, but I do enjoy a late breakfast here in particular.

Bar wise I’m a traditionalist mainly. City Wine Shop is an all rounder, whether you are having one or more, a meal or not, and offers a brilliant take home selection too. Supper Club is an old favourite and as they say, if these walls could talk, but right now it is only open for private events. Bouvardia serves cocktails made from native ingredients and makes for fascinating and delicious experiences. Eau De Vie is the epitome of quality and class.

I’ve often opted for burgers at Rockpool on one side of town, Betty’s in the middle of town, and Butcher’s Diner towards Parliament. For rooftops, there is now an incredible selection, but lately I’ve often been drawn to Her, QT, and sometimes for an often more casual vibe, Emerald Peacock.

This post will continue to be a work in progress, but please be sure to ask questions, and give some boundaries, and I’ll do my best to help!

Link to map