Control freaks don’t love surprises. Tonight I asked for one, and I’ve been excited for weeks in anticipation. Catherine has not let me down. We are somewhere both familiar and unfamiliar.
The Potter Museum of Art has never been “graced” with our presence. Even back in my days as a tourist to Melbourne it may have barely earned a passing glance as the tram went down Swanston Street taking us towards the corner of Elgin and Lygon Streets in Carlton. Apple Maps is quite unclear where the Museum is actually located, and parking nearby is a little difficult. (Google is far more accurate.)
All of this makes our drive to Cherrywood by Residence a bit of an adventure, as we listen to the Triple J Hottest 100 of Australian songs near its finale. The soundtrack to our journey is epic, and eventually we are led past the open kitchen bar to our cute table on the banquette that allows us both to face into the intimate restaurant with well spaced tables. Looking out I’m struck by the simple but beautiful lighting of the white double-hung sash windows, and the simple elegance of the whole renovated Victorian era space.
Catherine’s surprise is a beauty. I had no idea even as we drove to the restaurant where we were going. The hard working floorstaff, professional but with a relaxed nature, explain that the concept at Residence is to have a new head chef every twelve months that brings their own experience and perspective to the menu. In this current phase, called “Cherrywood”, Robbie Noble utilises his over ten years of experience as a chef to create a menu that is limited by Museum influences.
Those museum influences have nothing to do with art. I’d never thought about it, but you cannot cook with an open flame (ie gas) in a museum or art gallery. There is simply too much risk. What makes me curious is whether the name of the restaurant (a nod to wood often used in flame grilling and smoking) is a bit of tongue in cheek. The natural question to ask now is what is the food like?
The food offered is seasonal, diverse, reflects the influences of the chef, and has a depth of flavour that balances even the richest of ingredients. Catherine and I worked through the highlights together, and a day later I’m not sure which of several dishes I’ll most crave in coming weeks, which is obviously a big compliment. One piece of advice is do not hesitate a moment in starting with Mum’s roast chicken tea.
As if an entire roasted chicken is pressed and liquified, then poured into a small ceramic tea cup, over black garlic and tarragon, you are left in complete comfort, yearning for a little more, but knowing that what you’ve enjoyed is enough. Next is a softly cooked scallop covered by an utterly delectable almond and saffron sabayon, with burnt butter. Scallops in a half shell in fine dining restaurants are abundant, and this is the best one we’ve eaten this year.
Through this first phase of the meal we’ve started with a seasonal negroni, and the peartini, both of which are beautifully made, the quince used as part of the negroni adding another dimension without taking away from the classic combination. We are now onto a white, Catherine with the Macedon Chardonnay by Garden of Earthly Delights, which is the wife’s side of a team with her husband making wines under the banner Syrahmi. This team of Pip and Adam Foster have their wines featured by Residence, and the Grenache by Syrahmi I try later is excellent with the lamb. As I’m inclined to do when there is a wine offered from the Savoie region of France, I try it (and another glass); the Dupraz Rousette de Savoie Altesse is austere, balanced, and absolutely delightful.
Robbie is from Bradford, England, and no doubt there is some of Fergus Henderson and accomplices in the bone marrow topped with oxtail marmalade and horseradish, with a bread crumb, and parsley salad to break through the richness. The combination works, and it is good to share, as a few tastes is satisfying, but a few more might be too much.
We stage mains, with the first a blue eye fillet sitting atop a stunning haricot blanc (white bean) cassoulet, that also features smoked squid that has real impact through the dish. The blue eye is perfectly cooked, and the white fleshy fish is a match made in heaven with the cassoulet. Yet another highlight.
For our final savoury dish we select the lamb rump. The primary reason I was swung away from the hanger of beef with ox tongue (a favourite protein) was the Jerusalem artichoke, which I rate as my favourite vegetable. Throw in some red cabbage, a delicious sauce for the lamb, and a side of heirloom beetroot, and we are in business. The lamb, like the blue eye, is perfect. The artichokes are just the same, and unlike some other big meals, Catherine and I finish every last ingredient on our plates.
Dessert is the lesser light, but in no way diminishes the meal. Great in concept, my honey tartelette showed off the prime ingredient, but ultimately less (honey) would have been more, and more cream would have added better balance. Catherine’s rhubarb and custard, had the textural element with the brandy snap, but the rhubarb was a little tart for her taste, and knocked off the balance too.
From the adventure to get to Residence, to the adventure through the menu, we were very impressed in our evening out in Parkville / Carlton. Robbie Noble’s stint here is reason to follow his next move too, and thanks to his Mum for the roast chicken tea, which is worth writing home about.
Cherrywood by Residence
https://potter-museum.unimelb.edu.au/visit/residence-at-the-potter
https://www.residenceatthepotter.com.au
Potter Museum of Art – University of Melbourne
Corner Swanston Street and Masson Road, Parkville
Lunch Monday to Saturday; Dinner Wednesday to Saturday
hello@residenceatthepotter.com.au
PH: 0422 082 330
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