Park Street Pasta and Wine – South Melbourne – Sunday 8 November 2020 – Lunch

Park Street Pasta and Wine – South Melbourne – Sunday 8 November 2020 – Lunch

It’s like learning to ride a bike, stopping, starting again for a few weeks, and stopping again for a few months. It felt much more unusual last time with empty but full dining rooms, and tonnes of sanitiser. Somehow with masks on your way to the table, and on all the staff, it feels quite natural now?

Park Street Pasta and Wine was our choice for our first big lunch back after 3.5 months of a strong lockdown. Reservations across town were full seemingly moments after the State Government announcement that we were allowed to safely go back to eat and drink the way we used to (in a sense).

The planning concessions allowed the restaurant to sprawl out onto the street, but we were keen for an intimate chance to dine. Our little boy, not in our care for the first time since the middle of July, meant we had some serious indulging to do.

It’s not our style to eat huge meals, or drink a lot (well, maybe not Catherine), but we do like to try multiple dishes by sharing. First up we tried the sardines, which were lightly cooked and full of flavour that we hadn’t enjoyed outside of our home for some time. As we finished our cocktails, mine an Americano spritz to celebrate a return to normality from a US political perspective at least, we were beginning to remember what we had been missing.

Sharing the cacio e pepe brought back memories of Rome. The pepper not pushing the limits, but delicious all the same, and the mafaldine pasta a talking point for both its shape, and its great texture. Next we were back for some more fruits of the sea, with Port Phillip mussels topping a rich and deep tomato sauced spaghetti. Such a delight. The sweet vincotto (balsamic) in the parmesan and pistachio salad led to us finishing every mouthful, which is a bit unusual for even the best of side salads.

Apple and pecan crumble, fior di latte

Turning to dessert, despite the continuing “doughnut days”, we skipped the bombolini, and instead tried the apple and pecan crumble. Deconstructed, it had the freshness of crisp apple to balance the sweetness of the crumble, along with some sweetened fior di latte gelato. A nice finish to a long lunch.

With good expressions of Soave, Vermentino, and several other Italian varieties, the wine list by the glass has plenty to keep diners interested. The weaker point of the meal was not surprising. Service is terribly difficult at the moment with a lot of elements to consider, especially the fact that so many staff are not in Australia any longer (and probably won’t come back). It did not disrupt the meal, but it was not a positive either.

I’m very aware that we are in different times right now. This is a relaxed long Sunday lunch that was overdue, and it was terrific to again be out in Melbourne!

Park Street Pasta & Wine Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Lupo – Collingwood – Saturday 8 June 2019 – Lunch

hare capelletti, celeriac, chestnut, mustard fruits

There are many reasons we are trying out Lupo in its first week. Chef Scott Pickett, a good experience at Saint Crispin a few years ago, our love of Italian food, and getting out with our five week youngster for a (hopefully) long lunch. Not without flaws, previous experiences at Estelle, Matilda and Saint Crispin are much better than average, and the trust is there to go when things may still be settling down on the restaurant floor.

Lupo is described as “relaxed” Italian, though I thought relaxed might be a redundant word next to Italian because most Italian experiences are “free from tension and anxiety”! I’m a bit simpler in my description, because I would say Lupo is great. The relaxed part is the feeling that you are in a cute Italian restaurant, that would be as easily run by Nonna, as it would be by Scott Pickett. Here the room is almost kitsch with worn photo frames housing beautiful black and white photos of Italian landmarks and monuments. Even the toilet has its charm.

gnocco fritto, garlic, grana padano

The menu follows the classic segments of antipasti, pasta/risotti, secondi, cortoni and dolci. The dishes however have accents of the contemporary, and are anything but relaxed. The theme is flavour, much like the depth of Matilda, with recognisable Italian dishes that have a tangible difference without going overboard.

sardines, lemon olive oil, fennel pollen

Our first extended lunch with our little boy, we found great hospitality from the first call to make the booking, through to the exit from the restaurant. Earlier in the day I had a friend send me a photo of their hotel room view over the Pantheon in Rome, and now I’m looking at photos of iconic places like Pisa. I feel like I’m in Italy and my wife is half Italian to seal the vibe. When we taste the amuse of gnocco fritto with garlic and grana Padano, we have had a great start. Just that little bit of inventiveness, but so delicious we couldn’t come here without getting them again. Garlic bread will never be the same.

The Laurent-Perrier Champagne, and Italian Soave, are sliding down beautifully, and our antipasti of sardines with lemon and fennel pollen is another dish to come back for over a drink. The sardines are delicate, but the accompanying slow cooked fennel meets the brief. I move to a Nero D’avola and Catherine to a refreshing mocktail.

Brussels sprouts, farro, guanciale

The expert service was responsible for guiding me between two dishes I couldn’t choose between. While I’ll be back for the crab lasagne, the hare capelletti won my vote by a short margin. Neither choice could be wrong, but I was very pleased with the four large parcels of rabbit ragu encased in al dente pasta with the mustard fruit asserting itself in the celeriac and chestnut sauce.  Combined with the Italian red, I again transported out of Melbourne once again.

hand rolled garganelli, nettles, pine mushrooms, macadamia

Catherine’s pasta had a penne styling to it, but it was freshly rolled and longer. The hand rolled garganelli was presented with nettles, pine mushrooms and macadamias. The combination feels unique and it works. The side of Brussels sprouts is ridiculously good, with guanciale (cured pork cheek) and farro, providing that easy lift that Brussels sprouts enjoy.

tiramisu

We felt the serves had been reasonable, and went for dessert anyway! Here we had a hit and a miss. The hit is the tiramisu which has some modern flourishes, but stays true to the flavour profile. It is excellent and the wafer provides an enjoyable texture. The “oops I made a vienetta” needs some work. The name is confusing because it is more a chocolate chip semifreddo with poached quince in their own syrup and slightly salted popcorn to provide some texture. I like sweet desserts but the syrup does dominate it, and the vienetta novelty is lost.

“oops I made a vienetta”

As we finished with some espresso (Nespresso machine, unfortunately) and peppermint tea, we were presented with petit fours to finish. Classic panforte, torrone, biscotti and amaretti (that is awesome) is the perfect end to a delightful lunch.

Lupo is already an Italian magnet on Smith Street early in its life. It feels like it has the makings of an institution, but will Scott Pickett’s imagination allow it to play out in that direction? Let’s hope so.

Lupo Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato