Old Kingdom – Fitzroy – Tuesday 6 December 2016 – Dinner

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It looks the same. The atmosphere is the same. The food might actually be better in some areas. And that is the way institutions are supposed to be. To be exactly as they have lived in our memories for years and years.

Luckily, the stories I have are from years ago. When, on those particular nights, the waitperson was charming and funny. The only lacking element tonight is the ability of the waitstaff to interact and add that X factor to the meal.

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Ten years ago (give or take), I was told about the “duck hangover” in detail and still relive that story to this day. Another time I was told to pull up the table cloth all the way up to the neck to protect from duck fat shooting everywhere. If you were at a Heston restaurant you would call it “theatre”. It is almost as if back then Heston named his restaurant accordingly after experiences at Old Kingdom.

Tonight the duck is non-chalantly presented; politely enough, but without energy and enthusiasm. After grabbing a quick photo, our waitperson proceeds to begin cutting without any warning of duck fat splashing, and in close proximity to a vacant chair with one of our guests jacket hanging behind it. It seems there were no accidents, but the risks taken were exceptional!

The duck itself is prepared expertly as you would hope for at a restaurant that specialises in Peking Duck. It is delicious, with a thin pancake, some spring onion, cucumber and hoisin sauce only adding to the experience. Addictive is probably the best description I can think of.

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The duck stirfry (mainly bean shoots though) contains the leftover duck not chopped for the first course, but has some rich juicy pieces of duck meat. The last course, the duck soup, is deep in flavour, far better than my memory of this particular course. It is the first time I can think of trying seconds for this final edition of duck gluttony.

As it stands, we had three ducks for five adults, which is probably over-indulgent. In fact, unlike other reviews, I decided to write this immediately following dinner given the forthcoming duck hangover, and serious duck regret I will probably feel tomorrow. Nothing exceptionally over-indulgent is without some form of come-down.

There are many special things about restaurants that stand the test of time. Think about the changes on Smith Street just in the past ten years. Old Kingdom has been watching all of the great improvements on this eclectic street while keeping its appeal.

Old Kingdom Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Biggie Smalls – Collingwood – Friday 11 December 2015 – Dinner

IMG_4434Walking down Smith Street towards Biggie Smalls I couldn’t help but double take at one of the other kebab shops along the way. It’s claim to fame is being the shop that is used for a TV show. I have seen some ads for that show (Kebab Kings) and it makes me worry for the future of that particular shop.

Sweet sounds of hip hop are blasting out of 86 Smith Street and I already like the theme of this shiny new glorified kebab shop. Having just begun its life I’m surprised that at 7pm I can pretty much go straight to the counter after a quick perusal of the wall mounted menu, and order my first taste of Shane Delia’s kebabs.

Looking around as I wait I realise that in a matter of ten minutes there are no stools or booths left in this diner. It is instant success, but will it last? The concept fits beautifully in Smith Street and I already have several people I’ll be recommending to check it out just to have a listen to what the DJ (yes, DJ) is playing.

A-Rab lamb kebab

A-Rab lamb kebab

As for the kebabs, I chose the A-Rab. It is their lamb version, accompanied by smoked hummus, herbs and pickled onion. The lamb is terrific and fills up the kebab generously, and the smoked hummus is clearly visible, adding heaps of flavour along with the Biggie hot sauce, and old skool dressing (roast garlic yoghurt). This is a contemporary combination wrapped up in a well made and toasted traditional pita. There are comfortable flavours you know, with a pop from the less traditional additions. I think it will be a kebab for certain tastes, and certain days when you feel like something a bit different.

I am not a huge eater by any stretch and the bag of small crinkle chips is monstrous in relative terms. But they have this addictive spiced butter and preserved lemon that forms almost a sparing crumb over most of the chips. I could not stop.

Hot Crinkles

Hot Crinkles

Biggie Smalls was not everyone’s thing when he was dominating the hip hop world, and the kebab shop of his name won’t be everyone’s thing either. I’m not a good one to judge though because I have a soft spot for a good kebab, especially one executed this well, and more than a leaning to hip hop, especially the old skool.
Biggie Smalls Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato