Meatworks Co – South Melbourne – Saturday 23 April 2016 – Dinner

IMG_5149When you start dinner early there can be an almost eerie feeling of arriving in an empty restaurant, down a side street, in an empty area. With a tree adorned with fairy lights out the front, and bright white walls on the exterior, it is a good looking place. The friendly greeting and offer to close the windows as the night grew chilly helped the unease of being the only diners.

It is a new thing for Meatworksco to open at night and before long there were three or four other tables seated adding some atmosphere to the nice, clean fitout with curious Roman pillars on part of one wall. It’s a large restaurant, so it will need to build its clientele quickly.

American style barbeque has grown in popularity with such gusto that now a new addition to this genre is almost expected on a regular basis. Here there is a focus on platters to share between two and we choose the red meat offering, along with heaps of sides. Unusually, for a restaurant cooking meats for 16 and 20 hours, there are large seafood options including a dedicated platter. I say unusually because this restaurant is called Meatworksco.

Polenta chips

Polenta chips

This is where the formula here is unusual with a quasi-counter ordering system. I know counter ordering well, and I know table service well, but once this restaurant gets busy, I’m not sure whether the quasi system is going to work. We had our table set when we arrived, ordered drinks from a waitperson (who brought them to us), and had menus on the table, but equally we needed to order our food (and any more drinks) from the counter, and the waitperson came and grabbed our menus once we had ordered. To me, an organisational freak, this just seems unworkable. Add to this that we didn’t pay until the end so it is almost like table service, without being able to order or pay at the table.

Roasted Corn w Parmesan & Chipotle Mayonnaise

Roasted Corn w Parmesan & Chipotle Mayonnaise

The meat platter is huge, and although it is for two, it is shared between the three of us. It has pulled pork and brisket, beef ribs, lamb ribs and short ribs. Everything on the platter has been slow cooked to excellent effect. The difficult aspect is more in comparing the taste of each meat on the platter, with those on other restaurant platters.

Roasted heirloom vegetables

Roasted heirloom vegetables

What I particularly like on this platter, which is not comparatively cheap, is the size of the ribs, which have obviously been cooked for a long time, with meat easily coming away clean from the bone. There is a fair bit of fat through the “Tomahawk beef rib” but that adds to the flavour and while it is an effort to get to the meat (steak knives are needed) it is great when you do. My favourite part of the platter however is a tie between the 20 hour smoked pulled brisket (deep in flavour) and the beautifully glazed pork ribs in smokey plum.
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The 16 hour smoked hand torn pork shoulder was a bit too gamey for my taste in pulled pork and needed the several sauces offered to soften it a bit. The sticky lamb ribs were outshone by everything else on the platter, but were completely fine at the same time.

Wok tossed Asian greens with hoisin sauce

Wok tossed Asian greens with hoisin sauce

We really gave the sides a good shake. Again there were good through to average, with the roasted heirloom vegetables terrific, but the polenta chips uninspiring. The shoestring fries were fine, but a little soggy, the roasted corn with parmesan and chipotle mayo was overcooked, but the flavour of the sweet corn was still good. Lastly the wok tossed Asian greens with hoisin was an interesting offering, and actually worked well to break up the meat eating.

There is good food to be enjoyed here at reasonable prices, in a nice environment. It could improve the tempo of the meal by simply making the leap to full table service, but everyone on the floor is friendly and helpful all the same.

Meatworks Co. Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

The Bridge Room – Sydney, City – Saturday 4 April 2015 – Dinner

Moreton bay bugs, roasted chilli paste, tamarind, endive, apple, celery salt

Moreton bay bugs, roasted chilli paste, tamarind, endive, apple, celery salt

Unpretentious is not a word often associated with the cream of Sydney’s restaurants. Yet it sums up many of my lasting feelings of our experience at The Bridge Room in the pointy end of Sydney’s CBD. Stepping back, there are many positive aspects, and some less positive aspects behind this lack of pretension.

The overall experience is excellent so my primary focus is on the best parts. The room itself, and the facade of the building, is warm and classical. The art deco architecture is accentuated to provide full impact. Inside it is not classically spaced for fine dining, but is certainly not spaced like a bistro. Touches such as the candlelight and soft furnishings create intimacy juxtaposed with the noise of a restaurant full of happy customers.

Slow roasted organic beetroot, radicchio butter, palette jam on iberico, sheeps milk curd, beetroot juice, pomegranate crumb

Slow roasted organic beetroot, radicchio butter, palette jam on iberico, sheeps milk curd, beetroot juice, pomegranate crumb

The menu is quite simply exciting. There are at least four entrees and mains that I cannot choose between, leading to quite a lengthy deliberation. Eventually Catherine is ready, but I am still not even close. Enter our waitperson to solve my ordering issues.

On the way to this assistance it would be remiss to not mention some comical errors from the floor prior to ordering. First the poor person about to serve the bread was literally pushed away because we had not yet ordered (it seems there is a rule here), next the person who pushed him away poured still water in our sparkling (we noticed half way but it was too late), and lastly Catherine got an explanation about there being no strawberries available for her cocktail – which she had not actually ordered or even enquired about. We are not stuffy diners and laughed it off, but in the same laugh, it is important for the top echelon of restaurants to get these things right because other diners are not so forgiving.

Victorian Murray cod, steamed winter melon, new season ginger, cloud ear mushrooms, chinking black vinegar

Victorian Murray cod, steamed winter melon, new season ginger, cloud ear mushrooms, chinkiang black vinegar

I had been pointed towards the Moreton Bay bugs for entrée and that is all I needed as a prompt. Our waitperson could not have recommended a better dish. Absolutely divinely grilled bugs, beautifully presented under ingredients that enhanced the deep but subtle flavour, and a roasted chilli paste that was even more decadent than the bug meat. Catherine too loved her slow roasted organic beetroot which was perfectly cooked, smacking of flavour and bettered with the accompanying ingredients.

Ocean trout, crisp skin, silken eggplant, roasted tea broth, sesame, puffed rice, organic soy sauce, grilled rock kelp

Ocean trout, crisp skin, silken eggplant, roasted tea broth, sesame, puffed rice, organic soy sauce, grilled rock kelp

The entrée, along with the dark rye and sourdough bread offered, led to high expectations for the rest of the evening. I had again taken the recommendation of our waitperson for main. The Victorian Murray Cod was indeed superb, but I couldn’t help but feel doing the seafood double left part of me a little empty. On the positive the fish was cooked beautifully and complimented by the ginger, melon and mushrooms. Similarly, Catherine’s Ocean Trout was also cooked perfectly. Presentation wise, the grilled rock kelp made a statement on the plate, and added a definitive Asian accent along with organic soy, roasted tea broth, and sesame.

At this stage it is worth mentioning how good the assistance on the wine matching was. In particular the elegant Chablis by Domaine Louis Moreau which we both enjoyed with our mains. While the wines by the glass are not cheap, they are not outrageous for this type of establishment.

Whipped black sesame, toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice, coconut sugar

Whipped black sesame, toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice, coconut sugar

Turning to dessert, we were hoping for the same excellence as entree. In between it was interesting to find no amuse offered to begin, and no palate cleansing or intriguing course offered to enter into dessert. I had my eye on four out of the five desserts. Guess which one our waitperson recommended! So I tried the black sesame whip and it was three out of three. It was actually a revelation in its creativity and deliciously executed technique. The puffed corn in particular didn’t just offer the requisite texture; it was one of the key elements on the plate. The whipped black sesame was mousse like, rich in flavour, and would be hard not to order on our next visit to The Bridge Room.

Aerated passionfruit, roasted nougatine, passionfruit ice cream, passionfruit seed powder, glass biscuit

Aerated passionfruit, roasted nougatine, passionfruit ice cream, passionfruit seed powder, glass biscuit

Equally Catherine loved her dessert. It was the best presented dish of the night, with perfect “glass biscuits” surrounding the other elements. The flavour of the passionfruit starred through the dish, with its various textures all marrying together in harmony, and with the nougatine adding further oomph. We had ordered peppermint tea, and an espresso, to have with our dessert, and they were up to scratch. However, given they didn’t come with any petit fours we thought $7 for a tea and $7 for an espresso was a bit rich. Our reasonably generous tip was reduced to compensate but really should have gone to the staff.

There are aspects lacking at The Bridge Room but those oversights are eclipsed by the beautiful food and genuinely helpful floorstaff. This is a restaurant that is working towards the top of its game. Some of the excitement is where it could be in months and years to come. One thing is for sure, on our next visit we will be sharing three desserts!

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