Great find at aptly named Paradise Valley Hotel

Mention of a quintessential country pub brings up thoughts of lots of great places, and probably a few less memorable ones too. The good ones bring up memories of comfort, atmosphere, warmth, and hospitality. Paradise Valley Hotel delivers this in spades across a large space from the front bar with its roaring fireplace and comfy couches, to the sun drenched dining area, to the outdoors which sees the Puffing Billy pass through multiple times during the lunch sitting.

Paradise Valley Hotel

Pub / Modern Australian

Front Bar Daily Bistro Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm; 5pm-9pm Bistro Sat-Sun 12pm-9pm
(03) 5968 4037

We’ve been here several times since we heard the O.MY guys love the place. Previously we’d driven past and didn’t realise what a treasure we were missing. Visiting for a wine in the front bar on couches facing the fireplace after another great meal at Emerald’s General Food Store, we quickly made plans to organise a group lunch and come back properly. That lunch saw us book two tables on a very hot day but despite the sun shining into the back dining room, it was an excellent catch up and the food lived up to the wine list.

There’s a huge amount of thought that needs to go into a successful pub, especially in the country. Such a big pub with so many spaces really needs to be thoughtful about the menu, drink options, comfort in each space, staffing, and many other aspects we take for granted when we are recipients of the hospitality. Getting most of these elements spot on is not an ordinary effort.

Today, we are having a group lunch yet again, but this time we are deeper into the restaurant, and it is winter. While service is stretched, the gaps are not too lengthy, and things run well on the floor with friendly staff who are clearly used to working at pace. The intensity is no doubt felt by the kitchen too, but we don’t notice any meaningful delays, and our food is excellent.

With so many great pub selections, and a broader offering too, Catherine and I decide to share a few dishes. Between the calamari, pork belly bao buns, and a cheeseburger (with chips of course), we had a good lunch feast to contend with. The winner on the table though was the Korean fried cauliflower which received applause from all and sundry; a superb pick from Kasey and Karl.

Plenty of diversity in the beer selection, a good range of reasonably priced and well chosen wine, and some particularly nice cocktails sorted us drinks wise, with the zesty apricot and hibiscus spritz worthy mentions. The kids meals were great too. We finished off with some churros for the table, which were quickly cleared from existence.

One of the traditions here is having some time out the back watching the Puffing Billy go by, and having a final drink while the kids run around. On a clear winter’s day it’s the perfect way to end a lengthy lunch catch up, and plan for the next visit!

The Cherry Tree Hotel is back but is it better?

The Cherry Tree Hotel has reopened and our first evening in the dining room has us questioning everything about our local.

The Cherry Tree Hotel has been dramatically reborn
The Cherry Tree Hotel has been dramatically reborn

Everything has changed, almost. It’s the pub the locals love. The toilet where you hold your breath prior to entry. The pinball machine levelled by cardboard. Walls that talk. Charming dilapidation. Regional Beer Week that goes for more than a week. The team of staff that stay a long time and struggle to make a move to leave.

We’re torn. We have our balls in several courts. One that involves a seven year old. One that loves a fancy dinner. One that wants no fuss down the road and an easy pint. One that takes solace in a game of pool or pinball. Another that wants Cremorne to continue to develop into a haven for hospitality.

It’s abundantly clear that business wise, the owners of the Cherry Tree have made the right decisions for now. Shiny, new, and classy fitouts attract the droves, and the locals are a given since there is no other pub that isn’t a further several hundred metre walk away. It’s the substance of the changes that are confronting though.

Putting aside a continuing excellent outdoor area sidled by the street, the sign at the front, and the fact this is a pub, there is nothing else that has been kept. In fact, there are some areas that are so off-script that it feels like complete change was the objective.

On the flip side, rocking up to the Cherry Tree in its new form is striking. It has a beautiful look. The dining room has wine glasses on the tables, and the bar speaks of elegance. I’m sure some coming out of the bar after a couple of drinks think they’re in South Yarra, not north of it.

The new menu is not unreasonably expensive, and has more modern fancy pub vibes and thought. The wine list has been kept restrained to similar pricing, and while there’s no longer a blackboard of 16-20 beers, there is still some better selections available such as the Mountain Culture Hazy. The toilet is luxuriously pleasant now too.

I can sympathise with the need to allow a new pub to not lose money by having the bulk of a pool table and pinball machines filling up space, and I can see good reason for the communal tables outside, which is quite neighbourly. It’s clean and tidy and there is enough staff at opening to keep things moving in the dining room and the bar.

Our dinner tonight was okay. My pork cotoletta is tasty, but perhaps a little over buttered, and the fennel is cooked too long to bring out a refreshing contrast to the buttery snitzel. Catherine’s kia ora salmon is perfectly cooked, but suffers from the oily broth (sauce vierge) that we are assured is supposed to be like that, but it is deep and impacts the salmon. We can see this item changing pretty quickly as it overwhelms the plate. The fancy tarragon panna cotta is both reasonably priced and well executed, showing there is ability in the kitchen.

My key request is a simple one. The change of the brilliant beer battered chips at the Cherry Tree was unnecessary. The cherry on top is calling the new version of chips “pomme frites” when they do not resemble French fries, and have the addition of chicken salt. Please bring back the chips!

Our waitperson is on her second night and she does really well. In fact, the only thing she probably needed was a bit of space. While it is prudent for the management to oversee things from early in the opening, we found it to be a touch too much, but we’re sure it will settle. One thing it shows is that there is real investment and focus here, and we will be supporting our local not just now, but constantly.

I purposely didn’t have too many conversations before I wrote this piece but I have a sure feeling on how the reinvention of our dilapidated local will be received. Either way, it’s without doubt that we need a neighbourhood pub in Cremorne, and support is almost assured. Specials nights are next on our agenda, with some good options Monday to Wednesday. See you there!

Cherry Tree Hotel

Pub

Sunday – Thursday: 11am – 11pm Friday – Saturday: 11am till late
(03) 5796 9393