Old Kingdom – Fitzroy – Tuesday 6 December 2016 – Dinner

img_6323

It looks the same. The atmosphere is the same. The food might actually be better in some areas. And that is the way institutions are supposed to be. To be exactly as they have lived in our memories for years and years.

Luckily, the stories I have are from years ago. When, on those particular nights, the waitperson was charming and funny. The only lacking element tonight is the ability of the waitstaff to interact and add that X factor to the meal.

img_6329

Ten years ago (give or take), I was told about the “duck hangover” in detail and still relive that story to this day. Another time I was told to pull up the table cloth all the way up to the neck to protect from duck fat shooting everywhere. If you were at a Heston restaurant you would call it “theatre”. It is almost as if back then Heston named his restaurant accordingly after experiences at Old Kingdom.

Tonight the duck is non-chalantly presented; politely enough, but without energy and enthusiasm. After grabbing a quick photo, our waitperson proceeds to begin cutting without any warning of duck fat splashing, and in close proximity to a vacant chair with one of our guests jacket hanging behind it. It seems there were no accidents, but the risks taken were exceptional!

The duck itself is prepared expertly as you would hope for at a restaurant that specialises in Peking Duck. It is delicious, with a thin pancake, some spring onion, cucumber and hoisin sauce only adding to the experience. Addictive is probably the best description I can think of.

img_6330

The duck stirfry (mainly bean shoots though) contains the leftover duck not chopped for the first course, but has some rich juicy pieces of duck meat. The last course, the duck soup, is deep in flavour, far better than my memory of this particular course. It is the first time I can think of trying seconds for this final edition of duck gluttony.

As it stands, we had three ducks for five adults, which is probably over-indulgent. In fact, unlike other reviews, I decided to write this immediately following dinner given the forthcoming duck hangover, and serious duck regret I will probably feel tomorrow. Nothing exceptionally over-indulgent is without some form of come-down.

There are many special things about restaurants that stand the test of time. Think about the changes on Smith Street just in the past ten years. Old Kingdom has been watching all of the great improvements on this eclectic street while keeping its appeal.

Old Kingdom Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

HuTong Peking Duck & Dumpling Bar – Prahran – Thursday 12 May 2016 – Dinner

Pan fried pork dumplings

Pan fried pork dumplings

It is really difficult for the branch of an original to hit the same mark. While there are many good examples in recent times of how to get it right (or very close) with the likes of Messina, Belle’s Hot Chicken, and Fonda for a few, it becomes more difficult where the process is especially skilled.

HuTong presents an intriguing case, because the original is exceptional, and because the art of imitation seems more difficult in relation to dumplings than other less exacting dishes. The bonus for the Prahran branch of HuTong is not needing to drive into the city, relatively easy (and free) parking along Commercial Road, and a larger restaurant meaning there’s no need to wait for a table.

Casting my eye around the ground floor Cullen Hotel lodgings of HuTong Prahran it appears this venue is at least twice as large as the one on Market Lane in the City. There is a large range of dishes available, and specific inclusion of “Peking Duck” in the name, but we are here to compare the dumplings.

We order some of the usual suspects such as shao long bao (soup dumplings), pan fried pork dumplings, the prawn/scallop/pork dumplings, and in addition we try the Peking duck dumplings. It is difficult to put my finger on it, and it could be purely being in a different location, but the shao long bao wrapper is just that touch firmer in this serve. The soup and pork filling is still wonderful.

Shao long bao

Shao long bao

The pan fried pork dumplings are served in their usual HuTong way, connected by the pancake like base that has lightly covered the pan. It is novel, but I also like the crunch. In saying that, the dumplings themselves could have been fried for that bit longer, as some are still a touch soft.

The combination dumplings of prawn, scallop and pork are generously filled with excellent quality base ingredients, and the dumpling wrapper in this case is perfect. However, the Peking duck dumplings are too glutinous, providing an unsatisfying mouthfeel, and the duck itself is not as juicy and gamey as you would expect. Catherine doesn’t even bother with her second one, but I give mine another go and it is slightly better, but we would not order this dish again.

The Thursday night crowd has now pretty much filled HuTong with a combination of couples, small and large groups. We notice that many tables are ordering from the main menu and leaving aside the dumplings which would be sacrilege at the original restaurant. The crowd alone is a good indication that the locals are appreciating having this city institution available closer to home.

While there is a tightrope to walk when expanding a brand known for its skill and quality, I think HuTong has done a good job with its foray into Prahran. The relative ease of dining here as opposed to the city makes it a real option for everyday dining, but it is unlikely to ever have the same place in my heart that its city sister does.

HuTong Peking Duck & Dumpling Bar Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato