BLK’s Melbourne Tips – City

BLK’s Melbourne Tips – City

Whether you have planned to the minute, or have a last minute night out in Melbourne, I’m always willing to help with suggestions. Normally this is reserved for long time friends and family, but having learned there can be a multitude of requests, instead I’m framing my tips with myself in mind. If you’re ever keen on some specific thoughts, all you need to do is provide a few boundaries and I’ll do my best to help.

Lobster at Gimlet

It’s naturally easier to get into the places I recommend below if you are planning a trip. There’s a misconception that you can’t do spontaneous, and that is wrong, as long as you are patient and have stamina. If you are willing to wait, and dine at less attractive times, you are bound to find an incredible experience along the way. Sometimes the wait allows you to find a great bar; sometimes dining early allows you to get on to the bar hopping earlier.

Normally I get asked for tips by visitors to this glorious city, and from those wanting a special experience, whether a date night, friends get together, or a celebration. On every single occasion I focus on the places that are favourites that I’ve visited multiple times, and those that are new that I’ve enjoyed very recently. Everyone loves anywhere that is shiny and new! So I think to myself, “where do I love to go?”

The easiest starting point centres around Flinders Lane, which may be renamed the avenue of champions one-day. There’s the pleasures of Nomad for any occasion, Hazel with similar standing (try the honey tart), and Supernormal too. The latter has improved the modern Chinese experience almost into a genre of its own, under Andrew McConnell’s adventurous and sure hand. One of the most exciting places to roll up to knowing that even without a booking it is probably only a matter of time before you can enjoy a lobster roll, and other indulgences, with a price-tag that is the opposite of cheap and cheerful. Here I’m always happy to be on the bar, or wherever I’m led by the front-of-house.

A little further down is yet another Andrew McConnell masterpiece. Here I’m talking about Gimlet, though some would instantly cast their minds to Cumulus Inc, and Cumulus Up, which are also great venues for a meal. Gimlet is a big deal, and screams “luxe” from the time you walk in, to the time you strut out. I personally wouldn’t hesitate to get here early or late without a booking to try my luck, knowing that down the road are several other great options anyway. These are my favourites on Flinders Lane, but I don’t need to be pressed to name a dozen others that are very good. A few in close proximity that are nice options for a group include the classic Chin Chin, Lucy Liu, Pastuso, and Lee Ho Fook.

Next a change of tact. One secret that I haven’t had to keep, because it is just not in people’s nature is this: 11.30am. That is the time you can rock up to Tipo 00 without a booking, and have one of the best plates of pasta in Australia, on the bar, and be done by 12.30pm (if you like). You can have coffee down the hill at Brother Buba Budan first (one of the long time coffee temples of Melbourne), or start with a well made espresso at the restaurant. If it’s not a work day you can have several courses and start with a negroni, and if it is you can keep it sensible. Yes, as much as a booking here is the preference, sometimes you wake up one morning and you feel like a midday spanner crab spaghettini right?

Next door to Tipo 00 is Osteria Ilaria which has a less informal vibe, but delivers on the Italian script without the lean to pasta (often there is only one). Up the hill is Kirk’s which I’ve always enjoyed outside between, or either side of a day out shopping in town. For my other favourite city Italian, it has to be Embla which is as much an unplanned place for a wine at the bar, as it has been host to long tables for lunch, and late plans for a dinner.

I’ve now had the privilege of dining at Aru twice, and I use that word purposefully, as this is a brilliant place to dine, albeit it is expensive. For modern Asian, whether on a date, or in a group, you cannot go wrong here. Very recently the head chef has changed, but I am confident the kitchen can carry on with the high standards, at least for now. Farmer’s Daughters upstairs is a great place to find a different experience focussed around showcasing a region of Victoria.

More down to earth, and less costly, is a trip to Operator Diner, which excels at doing the simple well, whether it is pancakes or a katsu sando. As I stroll around I often grab coffee at Duke’s, Industry Beans, and my favourite espresso is at Bench Coffee Co, which is often completed with a daquoise. Patricia serves exceptional coffee too, and the whole set up feels unique and local. Higher Ground is an all-day venue, but I do enjoy a late breakfast here in particular.

Bar wise I’m a traditionalist mainly. City Wine Shop is an all rounder, whether you are having one or more, a meal or not, and offers a brilliant take home selection too. Supper Club is an old favourite and as they say, if these walls could talk, but right now it is only open for private events. Bouvardia serves cocktails made from native ingredients and makes for fascinating and delicious experiences. Eau De Vie is the epitome of quality and class.

I’ve often opted for burgers at Rockpool on one side of town, Betty’s in the middle of town, and Butcher’s Diner towards Parliament. For rooftops, there is now an incredible selection, but lately I’ve often been drawn to Her, QT, and sometimes for an often more casual vibe, Emerald Peacock.

This post will continue to be a work in progress, but please be sure to ask questions, and give some boundaries, and I’ll do my best to help!

Link to map

Dessous – Melbourne, City – Friday 3 June 2022 – Dinner

There are times where you remember how difficult the restaurant game is, and how much genius and luck is involved when it all comes together perfectly. The important elements can be dissected into incredibly granular detail, most of which are standing side by side like dominos. This doesn’t indicate how Dessous, French for “underneath”, is going during its infancy.

It struck me recently how many restaurants are now around $200 a head for an indulgent meal, where you order whatever you feel like, and drink particularly well. This is even for smaller appetites like ours, and particularly in Catherine’s case, not more than a few glasses of wine. Divergent from other great cities to dine out is the fact that lunch costs the same as dinner in most cases too, so there’s no respite.

How do these separate ideas come together? Dessous was relatively expensive (though not up to the $200 a head mark) but sits where, back only a few years ago, upper-end of the middle-tier (UEMT) restaurants would aim. I’ve completely made this up, but UEMT in my mind is those places with nice fitouts, fine food (as opposed to full fine dining), and relatively attentive (but not perfect) service, that is going to set you back about $100 a head. In this respect I think the goal posts have moved, and are starting to impact how I dine.

In this famous area of Flinders Lane you can find Hazel upstairs, Supernormal almost next door, Kisume and Nomad across the road, and Gimlet up on the corner. You need to be on your game and providing a point of difference to attract a substantial clientele and have a consistently full restaurant. Tonight, Dessous is full, and from my booking experience, it appears to be consistently popular.

As we are seated, besides the charm of the basement level restaurant, and high revelry, there is a darkness that creates an atmosphere of indulgence. I wonder what it is like when you can see? As Angus holds his phone’s torch to the menu, we peruse the menu and sip on our drinks from a nicely balanced list.

The menu is designed to share, and as a result, is split between snacks, smaller, and larger dishes. I cannot recommend enough a focus on the snacks. One taste of the crab doughnut has me penciling Dessous for future bar excursions. Unlike the lobster roll at Supernormal, where I’ve had several, I can only judge on two bites, but this is a destination snack. Directly prior I had my three bites of a scallop sando that was not far off. As I sip my Adelaide Hills Fiano by Oxbow, this is a tremendous start.

The pork hock croquette, pickled Spring Bay mussels, and the red curry corn fritters were great, but they need to step aside for the doughnut and the sando. Expectation levels are growing as we order glasses of the Spider Bill Chardonnay, also from Adelaide Hills. Our smaller share dishes are the double baked gruyere cream soufflé, roasted bone marrow with sticky rice (which I insist upon), and char-grilled albacore (long fin) tuna in chilli sauce with pippies.

The latter of the three is the winner. The tuna is perfectly cooked, with a spice that creeps up on you, making perhaps a more aromatic wine a better match. Sticky rice is uncomfortably sticky with the bone marrow; and it’s hard to top the classic toast and parsley of St John fame, but it is still a dish I would prefer to have tried than not. Lastly the soufflé is disappointing, lacking the full flavour and perhaps seasoning, that is necessary to lift the gruyere cream.

Prawns and pork belly with baked vermicelli is the first of our two larger dishes, and the better of them. While there could always be more prawn meat, there is a good dose of favour in the sauce, and the vermicelli work in well. Wagyu rump cap with XO spinach, and Cipollini onions closes our savoury courses, along with a side of buttered cabbage. I’m not sure if it is luck, but I’ve now had several beef dishes at a series of well regarded restaurants that are just not hitting the mark. It appears that in this case it is the beef, rather than the way it has been cooked, which seems soundly executed by the chefs.

Almost making up for the low point of the beef, is a delicious Sangiovese from Umbria by Cantina Margo. On reflection it seems the general trend of the meal was downhill, but it was not a steep slope, and not without some nice inclines. We were comfortable with the amount of food, and decided to just try one dessert in the form of the jasmine rice pannacotta with citrus syrup. I liked the dish; both refreshing with evident citrus, and comforting with sweet pannacotta. A dish reflecting the cultural influences of the broader menu, and a level of creativity that could elevate the menu over time.

If you accept where Dessous now sits in terms of expense, it is a nice proposition. The concern I have in this day and age, where there are other pressures on disposable income, is whether inflation is going to reverse the dramatic and welcomed swathe of restaurants hitting Melbourne. In any scenario, continuous improvement and growing attention to every detail, could see Dessous part of our dining scene for many years to come.

Dessous – https://www.dessous.com.au/
164 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
Tuesday to Saturday from 5pm
+613 9070 4939
info@dessous.com.au