Melbourne

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Pipis Kiosk – Albert Park – Friday 5 September 2025 – Dinner

On this stretch of “beach” along Port Phillip Bay we have special memories. While we used to drive as far up the Bay as we could to swim, it has become a necessity to have some options closer to home once Sydney came along. Where Kerferd Road hits Beaconsfield Parade has acted as our main sunset beach area, enjoying some fish and chips, a swim, and some glorious family time where Syd is in his element.

During this time it has been hard not to notice Pipis Kiosk and how cute the building is. A good friend whose Mum lives nearby told us how good the restaurant is, and lo and behold it appeared in Australian Gourmet Traveller not too long after.

Tonight it is windy and there are small waves lapping the shore as we walk along the refrigerator that is Beaconsfield Parade. Entering the restaurant offers a warm welcome, but maybe not the warmth in temperature we were hoping for. We are placed on an intimate corner table on the window in this tiny restaurant, and begin noticing the majority of other early arrivals are going into the private room for a party.

The brief, seafood driven menu, has plenty of enticing options and in no time we have concocted a delicious plan for a feast. One thing about this restaurant is the wine bar aspect, which sees some tremendous options by the glass or half bottle carafe. Initially we start with a Blanc de Blancs from Champagne; perfectly fit for a celebration.

The Sydney Rock oysters we ordered from Merimbula arrive on the table with a rhubarb mignonette, along with salt cod croquettes and aioli. It’s a great start. Fresh on the one side, and salty oily deliciousness on the other. Shortly after we are on to a carafe of By Farr ‘Farr Rising’ Chardonnay which is immaculate.

The Port Arlington mussels we share are extraordinary in a way that mussels in a deeply flavoured white wine and cream sauce can be. There is something about the combination that always gets me when it is done really well, and mopped up with the superb seaweed sourdough, and drenched with the Chardonnay, things are going great. In fact, we need a short break before mains as the mussels came immediately after our starters.

This gives us a chance to enjoy the atmosphere in the restaurant, which is boisterous on the private dining side, and more balanced in the dining room. There seems to be a couple on the bar who are mates with the staff, and the restaurant is now close to full. Service is super friendly, but our position in the restaurant is a touch awkward, and there are several times where getting attention is difficult, but doesn’t detract too much from the overall experience.

Confit duck leg is close to perfectly cooked, and the cassoulet accompanying speaks of wintery goodness. Next to a premier cru Burgundy from the impressive list, it is duck and pinot heaven. Catherine’s rainbow trout is striking, much like Catherine herself tonight. Leek adds flavour and some texture against the softness of the fish, which plays the starring role. Nicely cooked chips, as you’d expect at a kiosk, and Ramarro wide leaf rocket salad with black pepper and pecorino is the salad equivalent of pepe e cacio. We finish everything and break for dessert.

Not realising the size of the dessert servings, we order both to share. The custard apple ice cream over meringue with passionfruit is what we initially go for, and it has a good amount of sweetness and texture. The warm cuvee chocolate tart however is easily the star, served with tangerine semifreddo and almond. The richness defeats us ultimately, but it is hard to regret having tried both desserts.

While we went all-out for this celebration, it is possible to dine here for quite a reasonable price per head. It’s in a magic spot, serving fine dining food, in a more relaxed atmosphere, with a wine list that makes you want to live nearby.

Pipis Kiosk (Restaurant and Wine Bar)
https://www.pipiskiosk.com.au
129A Beaconsfield Parade, Albert Park
Open daily from midday
03-9041-2814
HELLO@PIPISKIOSK.COM.AU

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Harriot – Melbourne, City – Friday 27 June 2025 – Lunch

The new venture by the restaurant group behind some of our favourites such as Tipo 00 and Osteria Ilaria, has opened a French bistro. The specific similarities end with the ownership, but the general warmth is shared inside Harriot. On a crisp winter day, Catherine and I enter the restaurant on the corner of King and Collins, protected from the busy intersection outside by low hanging curtains. We are brought to a corner table on a lengthy banquette, and settle in for a quick but luxurious lunch.

This may be the first time we’ve been invited to a soft opening, but such is Catherine’s following of Tipo, Osteria, and Figlia, that her long time patronage has been recognised. While I myself have been a long time patron too, it is normally walking-in and sitting on the bar at Tipo from 11.30am, so I am seemingly off the radar. The only noticeable feature of the soft opening is the absence of tables of more than four people, likely allowing the kitchen to not be overwhelmed in the opening days.

Service from the outset has a genuineness and care that is not surprising given the stable of venues. It has an ease about it, and doesn’t show any signs of opening greenness. There’s an understanding of what is being offered, and there is some initiative being shown too. As an example, we decided to start by sharing the spanner crab ravioli. While we are initially given some share plates, the kitchen seems to suggest presenting the shared dish on two separate plates, and the floorstaff are open to changing their minds.

The pumpkin bisque, diced firmish pumpkin, and scattering of espelette pepper, often used in Basque cooking, is a glorious combination. Due to its richness it is excellent to share, but as a single dish I could easily indulge next time. It is at this stage that we are finishing our nicely executed cocktails (a martini, and a “French Pearl”), and moving into a glass of Chenin Blanc (Chateau de Plaisance ‘Anjou’) and Langhe Nebbiolo (Pierro Busso). These wines, and the look of the wine list more broadly, are delicious.

Sher Wagyu rump is the second main that we split, and it comes with rosa radicchio which illuminates the plate, and parsley root which is pureed. Combined with a well-dressed leafy salad, the wagyu is rich and tender, cooked to our medium-rare request. Next door we notice other diners gushing over the sweetbreads, and they have gone on our list for next time, but we really enjoyed what we had ordered.

Dessert for Catherine came in the form of a disk of vanilla custard, draped in white chocolate, with rhubarb sherbet granita hidden, but for the escape of the red juice beneath. More traditional, my chocolate sabayon tart, with buttermilk ice cream, and wattleseed, made it three from three on the rich list today. Both desserts were nice sweet endings to the meal, but I preferred mine.

I feel that this part of town, while dotted with good and solid options, needs more diversity and excellence. Harriot is the west-end place for versatility. You could be happy with a cocktail or glass of wine and a snack, through to an elaborate multi-course meal; a dessert for a nightcap, or a quick one-dish lunch. Whatever the reason I’m looking forward to the next time.

Harriot
https://www.harriotmelbourne.com
555 Collins Street, Melbourne
+61  (03)  7053 1036
info@harriotmelbourne.com