Duende – Leederville – Friday 24 June 2016 – Dinner

You know a restaurant is doing something right when you, and your pesky friends, have changed the booking four times, yet you continue to be accommodated. As we rock up to Duende, with barely a spare chair observed (other than our table for eight plus a baby), we are even more thankful our initial booking of five was able to be changed.

It is a big catch up with old uni friends and some of our other halves. We have many reasons to share a few drinks and a meal and as usual it has been too long. It is for this reason that I completely forgot to get the camera out, so this particular review is bereft of any of my amateur photography.

A couple of Moritzs in and we have started to be served some of the dishes we decided to order. The idea is more to share some food over a few drinks, rather than a big meal, so we order some smaller share plates, and not the reasonably priced banquet. The croquettas are a nice start (as usual), and we also have one each of the mini-paellas, which are single serves wrapped in a vine leaf with prawn and chorizo mixed through the rice.

The staff were great all night, and we are encouraged to share one particular platter which turns out to be a better liked dish than the marinated white anchovies (which a few of us are suckers for, but several others are not at all keen!) The platter contained chorizo, jamón serrano, longaniza (Spanish sausage), guindilla peppers (traditional Basque pepper), and caperberries. The patatas bravas are served as whole roasted gourmet potatoes, which is a positive touch, but the sauce could have been a bit more generous (noting that it is tradition to smother it on).

Towards the end the chargrilled octopus, chorizo, kipfler potato with squid ink aioli is superb, especially the chargrilled octopus. At the same time we had the Brussel sprouts, confit white beans, heirloom tomatoes and baked ricotta which again was a combination a bit outside the box, working well as we had a few beers and wines. We settle on these as enough for the savouries, meaning our caution for the banquet was warranted.

For dessert we shared some chocolate tarts, and the doughnuts. Having been told there were five doughnuts in each serve I should have known they were going to be tiny. Luckily, with the injection of either jam and/or crème patisserie, they were absolutely delicious. The chocolate tart was terrific too, but most chocolate tarts are.

It has been many years since I’ve enjoyed the offerings of Duende. When it opened it was certainly a trend setter, and now it seems that many years later it has settled into a comfortable and lingering groove of its own.

Duende Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Low Key Chow House – Leederville – Thursday 18 September 2014 – Dinner

IMG_2589There are several strong themes running through 2014 in terms of food. In many ways, the strongest theme surrounds Australia’s latest version of modern Asian, combining some of the best aspects of Korean, Japanese, and Chinese.

They’re still out there – places that combine the most mediocre aspects of several cuisines or cultures. Those places where you can have fish and chips, fried rice, or souvlaki. On the face of it, offering pork buns, sashimi, yakitori, and several other great dishes, could make a restaurant look like it has a personality crisis. Low Key Chow House on the other hand, combines several styles without clashing on your palate.

Citrus cure

Citrus cure

We start with the citrus cure which is described as sashimi but is closer to ceviche. The grapefruit cure is fantastic. As with many ceviches, as delicious as they can be, the type of fish was hard to detect. It may have been kingfish. The mantou buns came out and looked amazing. The pork belly, complete with perfect crackling, lived up to the look. The buns are popular for good reason and it would be hard to dine at Chow without ordering them.

Mantou buns

Mantou buns

I liked the idea of including gizzards in the yakitori skewers, which also included thigh and crispy skin. Mum got the crispy skin one and I got the gizzards. Unfortunately, the gizzard doesn’t work and it would be better to have a couple of the crispy skin ones. The thigh itself was excellent; surprisingly good quality for a restaurant not specialising in yakitori. It was hard choosing main, because there were so many great sounding dishes. Having settled on the spatchcock, we were happy with our decision. The chicken was deboned, marinated, grilled, and beautifully seasoned. The achara salad it came with was nice, but not necessary with each bite of the chicken. The Kimchi salad was superb. Fresh herbs, chilli, Asian leaves and spicy kimchi, makes for an intriguing side.

Spatchcock

Spatchcock and kimchi salad

The servings were generous enough, but we could fit in dessert, and being a huge fan of red bean, I had to try the Azuki bean. The presentation was more interesting than what I expected. The crepes, filled with red bean, had been rolled and cut, and scattered over the plate. As you would expect, strawberry compote, ice cream, and coconut accompanying the crepes all work together. Simple and delicious, with the red bean starring.

Azuki bean

Azuki bean

The service was terrific. Our waitperson showed an excellent understanding of the menu and was attentive throughout. It was really busy in the restaurant, making for a fun and atmospheric place to eat.

Years ago, I used to eat here regularly, in this exact same spot, at cheap and cheerful Hans. Now, Leederville is almost unrecognisable, and there is a lot of burger joints – a lot! It is astounding the way Oxford Street has changed and while I have a soft spot for the old times, the new times are far better.

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