Gertrude Street Enoteca

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Gertrude Street Enoteca – Fitzroy – Saturday 4 July 2015 – Lunch

IMG_3878Reminders of Italy are not difficult to find in Melbourne. In many ways, Melbourne could lay claim to being one of the most Italian places outside of Italy. Gertude Street Enoteca is not classically reminiscent though of an Italian wine shop and bar.

Not that it is trying to be Italian. This is a place that features the ingredients, the techniques, but is quintessential modern Melbourne. This local take has been around for years but the only time I’ve tried Brigitte Hafner’s food is at a winery in Red Hill over summer.

It is cold, bitterly cold today, and winter has come. Sitting next to Catherine on the banquette at Gertrude Street is warming and comfortable. There before us are many wine friendly lunch dishes on offer, and more importantly, several expertly chosen wines by the glass. There is no rushing around by the staff, not to say that service is slow, just assured. Not long after ordering we have our carefully selected glasses of wine, and shortly after that we have a couple of dishes to share.

Gravlax at Gertrude Street Enoteca

Gravlax

Today we are drinking from the riches of Burgundy. Catherine with a chardonnay; me with a pinot noir. As you would expect from a revolving list of twenty wines, you really cannot put a foot wrong when it comes to wine. We share the gravlax, and a salumi platter. Both very reasonably priced, the salumi selection features sausage, a softer salumi like mortadella, and mild salami. Served with pickles, and giving fresh bread, the thin slices of meat are simplicity at its best.

The gravlax is still reasonably simple bistro food, but again is perfect. The salmon is bright and enticing, but shares centre stage with fluffy dill cream cheese, both enhanced by the classic additions of capers and extra thin pickles.

Pear and frangipane tart

Pear and frangipane tart

Relaxing here with a great glass of wine and sharing delicious ultra wine friendly dishes is something we could get used to doing. With no immediate plans for a trip to Europe, we may have to come back sooner rather than later.

Rather than cutting today short we decide to stay for dessert. There are several options with some tarts, cakes, and pastries. We choose the pear and frangipane tart and we chose well! It is perfectly executed, the quality of the pastry, slightly sweeter than usual, particularly good. Impressively there is a mini Synesso machine and the espresso is a good quality.

As we step out the door we wonder why we have left the comforting indoors on this terribly cold day. While there would ordinarily be an opportunity to browse at the diverse offering of retail along Gertrude Street, today we hardly make it past Belle’s Hot Chicken before we scurry to the car. Maybe we’ll have another wine next time around.

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Gertrude Street Enoteca at Avani Winery for Gourmet Traveller – Sunday 4 January 2015 – Lunch

IMG_3251Earlier today my favourite magazine joined forces with an Enoteca I’ve known about for years, but had never experienced, in the glorious surrounds of Avani Winery. There is not much more euphoric settings for drinking great wine and eating great food than a winery!

This is part of a month long pop-up venture for Gertrude Street Enoteca which judging by the full house, is a fantastic idea. You buy your ticket in advance, and rock up to find the three course blackboard menu on offer for the day.

It’s a casual type of event, but as we know in Melbourne (and surrounds), fashion here is thankfully more of the shirt variety rather than the tank top. Everyone is well dressed including the many children (who are made to feel welcome), and the floorstaff too. While they too are casual, and have a relatively easy task today with only drink orders necessary, they do a nice job while still enjoying their day.

Mezze selection

Mezze selection

There’s a good vibe all round and this must flow out of the kitchen because everything we tasted was good to very good. To begin we had a selection of mezze. The highlight for me was the halloumi and zucchini fritter which combined the ingredients harmoniously. When adding the nice and thick tzatziki it had an even greater flavour kick. The marinated calamari was nice, but from a flavour perspective the salty kalamata and green olives, and the vinegary dolmades, had a bigger impact. The dolmades had a touch of sweetness through the rice with the addition of currants.

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Grilled chicken in ras el hanout, skordalia, cabbage and mint salad

I tried a glass of the Hindhirst* Riesling 2012 with the mezze and was impressed with the balance of fruit and acidity – a great food wine. For main I tried the Philip Pedley* Pinot Noir and again it worked well with the food. It isn’t as funky as some of the Pinot I go for, but there’s finesse and even some elegance.

The main course starred. Beautifully grilled chicken rubbed with ras el hanout which could be nicknamed razzle dazzle such was the flavour it provided when rubbed into the skin. It is in fact a North African spice mix that I’ve rarely seen but look forward to the next rendezvous. It was served with skordalia which is basically garlic mash potato Greek style with a texture like a Paris mash, maybe even thicker, and a cabbage and mint salad made like coleslaw. There was a little lemon to add some acidity too.
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Next was dessert but in the meantime one of the floorstaff offered a glass of the T’Gallant Muscat. It is a light enjoyable dessert wine. The torte to finish is delicious. Described as a German meringue with cream and berries, the especially gooey parts of the meringue are particularly amazing with the sweet cream and berries. While we had a good serving, we could easily go back for some more!
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Pop-up is not a new concept anymore, but when you change the setting of a great restaurant, to that of a beautiful winery, it is a concept that will never get less exciting. The floorstaff seem excited and the restaurant had the volume you associate with good times. What an afternoon in Red Hill!

* Apologies – yet to confirm exact names of the wines which I didn’t note down!

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