Back in time at vibrant Côte Basque

It feels fresh and vibrant now. Conversely you can almost smell the old Becco. Walking in, Seinfeld enthusiasts would pleasantly recall Kramer talking about levels. The many levels of Côte Basque are again filled with happy diners, today during a roaring Sunday trade for Father’s Day.

The Trader House combination of Andrew McConnell and Jo McGann has the “Midas touch”. The sister restaurants are incredibly good, creating a portfolio that is the envy of all others hospitality groups around the country. Unlike King Midas’ touch though, the food not only is edible, but is absolutely delicious. For the tale goes that while being able to turn everything to gold, unfortunately the food touched by Midas was rather difficult to swallow. Gladly the ability of Trader House to run a successful restaurant has not become a cautionary tale.

Cote Basque

Basque

To give you an indication of my inclination to investigate this new venture, the only booking we could secure was for 3.30pm. There is a certain dedication necessary to have several courses of food at the midpoint between lunch and dinner. Outside of Margaret River, my favourite country town is San Sebastián, and not far behind is its French Basque neighbour, Biarritz. The Basque coast fills me with delight, and upon hearing about the theme I was completely Jerry Maguired. They had me at “Basque”.

If you’ve seen a modern menu in Australia recently you’ll be aware that there is no longer a need to indicate snacks, entrees, mains and sides, because almost every menu is the same format. Here there is another side to the menu though, and this features the seafood and beef from the grill, with prices making it clear what is what. The selections are generally enticing, and there’s a few questions to ask (or words to look up), but it is relatively straightforward.

Currently my addiction to martinis led to a house martini order, while the “bringing back cosmos” theme led Catherine in another direction. The sweet accent on the martini made it dangerously drinkable, and the cosmo was ridiculously good. Queue the arrival of “anchovy matrimony” which takes me back to being newlyweds at the Hotel de Londres in San Sebastián. The idea is two anchovies that strike a balance between oil and acid, salty indulgence and brightness. We had this along with the crab tart. The first thought I had was comparatively excellent snack sizes, and the second was how insanely delicious both (especially the tart) are.

Next we’ve chosen to go straight to mains, and we have a keen agenda to have more than one dessert later. The Rohne pasture-fed tenderloin steak from the grill side of the menu comes out looking radiant. It is about as close to bright red as I’ve ever seen a steak, and the red roasted capsicum on top brings out even more redness. Catherine is somewhat taken aback. As sides we have some chips (sensational, and Syd has already had a bowl), and the leafy salad, that is properly and beautifully dressed. I love the tenderloin, though it is expensive for the serving. Catherine is still getting over the colour.

As we’ve been enjoying these dishes, we also have been smashing the ridiculously good bread. Having ordered a serve for Syd, they accidentally brought an extra to our table, and this was my invitation towards excess. It didn’t matter though, we still ordered two desserts to share and this is where things got even more exciting.

The Gateaux Basque is a dreamy tart with cherry and vanilla custard. The chocolate soufflé with vanilla gelato is a decadent ode to rich desserts. Between them we are enthralled. As if trying to get from one side of an Olympic swimming pool to another, we are out of breath trying to down the sweet offerings, and checking the calendar for dates to get back here for some more.

Along the way we spoke to one of the managers who we recognised from both Gimlet, and Napier Quarter – two of our favourites. As you’d expect with that kind of resume, service had been excellent. The wine list has high quality selections at a range of price points, many around the $20 mark. I started with an Albarino by Weathercraft in Beechworth, which was a great expression of this versatile grape. Catherine’s Julien Brocard Chablis won the day, but at its price you’d expect that. Keeping it reasonable, I went to a Chianti Sangiovese by Le Corti, which went nicely with the beef.

Becco was such an interesting restaurant to me. I found myself there regularly, often at the invitation of others, and often with tourists looking for something iconic in Melbourne. There are not many restaurants that are so instantly recognisable. Côte Basque has maintained much of the old feel, but with food that is entirely different. I’m picturing a future with a few wines on the terrace outside, washing down some of these delightful snacks, or a light entree. Though I’d be quite pleased to replicate this family meal on Father’s Day many times over too.

Bistro Merenda during the Hungry Gap

What better way to spend a very wet and windy Sunday afternoon? As we enter downstairs at Bar Merenda and climb the spiral staircase up to the second level there is rain tracking sideways. We are in Daylesford in August so it is cold.

There are a few people I know who have been to Bistro Merenda upstairs. They’ve all been treated to a superb ever-changing menu, with warm and inviting service. The seasonality aspect channels Alice Waters from Chez Panisse of Berkeley California. We dined at Chez Panisse many years ago and have been grateful to see her inspiration shared by talented chefs across the globe.

When we go to fine dining restaurants with Syd, who is now seven, we normally write in the reservation comments that “we have a 7 year old with us who is well behaved and used to restaurants”. What that should actually read is “when we go to a restaurant there is a painful ten to fifteen minutes where we try to ensure Syd is well behaved, while trying to read the menu and order a drink, as he sets the table in the manner he likes, and asks for his screens twenty times”. Today is no exception.

Bistro Merenda

Modern Australian / Farm to Table

Dinner: Fri, Sat, Mon, Tues Lunch: Sat & Sun
0476 076 764

We appreciate the challenge for any floorstaff who have to navigate this situation, and ours did his job admirably. He is super experienced and used substantial patience, providing dining options for a very fussy child, and was just generally a fantastic person to speak with through the meal.

On this wild Sunday, the restaurant upstairs is half full, but the bar down below seems to be constantly heaving. We peruse the menu written for just these three days of August, and decide to add Merimbula oysters as a starter, and locally farmed truffles by Black Cat in Wattle Hill to the mushroom risotto at the extraordinarily good price of $12 per person! With alcohol a necessity after the first part of lunch, I’m onto a strong Manhattan using Kinglake Distillery handmade single malt whisky. Catherine has restrained herself into a lovely sparkling wine made from Vouvray (Chenin Blanc) in the Loire Valley.

Our oysters come out looking glorious, and they taste just the same. Toasts with crushed cannellini beans are delicious too, and we have Syd trying a bite, before handing it back to my delight. Next up comes soft house focaccia and olive oil, capocollo, and cervelle de canut. The capocollo, better known as coppa, is a salumi made from pork neck. Bundarra Farm make a version that is rich and soft, marrying the focaccia beautifully. The cervelle de canut is a Lyonnaise dish consisting of soft cheese seasoned with a variety of herbs and spices. Here it is served alongside vegetables including radishes that have been pickled sometime ago by the chefs in preparation for the “hungry gap”, explained to be this time of year where nothing is growing (except lots of potatoes!)

As I move to a glass of the Nebbiolo from Piedmont by Benotti Rosavica, and Catherine to the King Valley Aligote by Terrason, we are presented with the mushroom risotto and the local black truffles. This mushroom risotto is different. First, the stock used is a mushroom stock, but the mushrooms themselves from Wombat Forest, are quite separate to the carnaroli rice, and there is a thin surrounding moat of olive oil. For me there is a touch of sweetness to the dish, and the separate cooking of the mushrooms and the rice make the flavour of the mushrooms themselves stand out, but there is less richness in the rice itself. I wouldn’t want it this way all the time, though it is great here.

We’re chatting frequently with our waitperson upstairs and he’s spending a great amount of time across the three tables he’s serving. I overhear he’s serving a 2021 Syrahmi as part of the wine matching and gain the courage to ask for an off-list glass which he doesn’t hesitate to pour. Named “Once in a lifetime” due to the brilliant vintage, we discuss how some regions seem to be having once in a century vintages a lot! It’s beautiful and matches tremendously with the next course.

Superbly pink lamb sits in a pepper sauce that is expertly crafted, and full of heirloom pepper that is described as also “life changing” and may well be. This lamb from Pig + Earth (go figure) is served with a side of duck fat potatoes that instantly remind us of Hazel where the husband and wife chefs, Oliver Edwards and Brianna Smith, once worked. These texturally consistent and wonderfully cooked-through potatoes, along with a properly dressed leafy salad, make for a winning main course that doesn’t overfill us like some can.

From a technical perspective, the madeleines we are served are everything you could dream of. Using your fingers you dip them into a luscious Meyer lemon curd, and the simple combination is satisfying. We might sound like spoiled children, but we were looking for something a little more involved for dessert, not to take away the technical prowess that goes into the madeleines. A little oddly there’s no non-black tea for Catherine to enjoy with them, when it would make a great combo. I finish with a negroni that incorporates a sweet local red vermouth by Saison.

Syd was treated amazingly considering he is a very stubborn child to entertain. His cheese and butter pasta plus the focaccia made for a great kids meal, and his almost pure lemonade, and the partaking of the madeleines at the end was a real treat.

Everything about our experience at Bistro Merenda was more than pleasant, and completely consistent with the great things we had been told over several months by others who had visited. The bar downstairs is extremely inviting for a future trip too, especially during those times where we are lucky enough to stay at Lake House close-by. Walking out into the subsiding sideways rain was easier after such a delicious meal.