Classic should never be interpreted as boring, though in our fast-paced world, it sometimes has a double meaning. Done well, the classics, and classic places, reveal some of our favourite experiences.

It is certainly not that I forgot about Cafe Di Stasio. It appears year after year on the list of restaurants I want to go back to. Unfortunately it is a very long list, such is the quality we enjoy in Melbourne.

The cliches come thick and fast for touristy St Kilda. It’s one of those places that I’ve always enjoyed, but rarely get to. There isn’t the edginess that Fitzroy has, or the dynamic nature of the city. Perhaps it feels too much like the places I grew up in – beachy, safe and friendly like Perth.

Somehow, in the busiest part of Fitzroy Street, as you walk through the doors of Di Stasio you are transported thousands of miles to an Italian oasis. Yes, there is a St Kilda vibe of calm, but there instead of laid back beach charm, there is the sophisticated charm that only profession and experience can create. If it sounds like I am bubbling with praise for this institution, I am!

Capisante Gratinate – scallops baked in their shell with bread crumbs, parmesan and parsley

I’ve been here with groups, and by myself, but tonight it is with Catherine to celebrate the anniversary of our first date. Several years later we really combine well for dinner, knowing each other’s dining habits intimately. By virtue of that understanding, it doesn’t take long for us to agree to share a starter, pasta, main, and dessert. This isn’t for everyone, but too many times people miss the balance between trying several courses and dishes, and feeling uncomfortable at the end of the meal.

The first dish we select is the scallops baked in their shell, with a simple parmesan crumb. Done well this can be an outstanding dish while on the other hand it can be a good way to ruin a great scallop. Here, it has been done thousands of times and the result is delicious. After a great start we next choose the fresh pasta of the day with a mushroom sauce.

Freshly made spaghetti with mushrooms and sage

Draped with sage, this is the ultimate of mushroom sauces over a spaghetti that doesn’t get much finer when made fresh, though I wouldn’t have described it as angel hair like the kitchen had. The depth of flavour, without going overboard on seasoning, is exceptional from the first bite to the last. Sharing is not an issue to presentation either; the chefs happy to plate separately without being asked.

Agnello alla Romana – lamb slow cooked with white wine, anchovies, rosemary and garlic bruschetta

Our love of pasta means our main was never going to top our previous course, but the slow cooked lamb is beautiful anyway. With a generous grilled garlic brushetta to mop up the white wine, anchovy and rosemary sauce, this was a perfect expression of rustic fine dining. Halving the serve (again being plated separately) meant our final tastes were not stretching our stomachs and there was plenty of room for dessert.

Torta di Vaniglia – White chocolate and mascarpone tart

Throughout our meal I enjoyed some well selected wines by the glass, which is expected given Di Stasio has a bar that is as frequented as much as the restaurant. Service had been excellent too. The only exceptions were later in the meal trying to get a red wine before my main arrived, and organising the bill. These are only minor, and had a bit to do with our awkward table position, but still probably shouldn’t happen.

There are some nice sounding desserts, and while none jumped right out at me, Catherine had her eye on the white chocolate and mascarpone tart. Simple, not “deconstructed”, and full of flavour, I was glad to have tried the tart. It’s a beautiful dessert, and while rich, it is an excellent way to finish a superb meal.