Expensive

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Lung King Heen – Hong Kong – Saturday 13 December 2014 – Dinner

Wok-fried superior Australian wagyu beef cubes with sarcodon asparatus and capsicum

Wok-fried superior Australian wagyu beef cubes with sarcodon asparatus and capsicum

There is no definition of what makes a restaurant a destination in itself. Though the Michelin Guide equates the greatest restaurants to “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey”. There are times in the best meals where I lose the words to describe what I’m tasting, and feeling. Could this happen in Hong Kong and could it happen in a Cantonese restaurant?

I would like to say that I’m worldly and know by heart the best restaurants across the globe. After New York I know a handful in destinations like Paris, San Sebastian and London, and after that just the top couple in a few places in the US and Europe. I had never heard of Lung King Keen even though friends had been there, but I knew they had been to a three Michelin star restaurant in Hong Kong. Hence the importance of Michelin’s guides, and the World’s Best Restaurant awards, but inherently difficult ability to discover the greatest for yourself. It seems that is only maybe possible in your home town.

Roast goose with plum sauce, crispy suckling pig, barbecued pork with honey

Roast goose with plum sauce, crispy suckling pig, barbecued pork with honey

I know from this experience that there are differences in what is considered exceptional in Hong Kong, to what is exceptional in the other dining destinations I’ve mentioned. It is refreshing that this is the case. We are not in France, so it is pleasing to find Michelin are not judging in comparison to French restaurants. With such different cuisine what would be the point of direct comparison? After all, a lot of the food in China is based on recipes that have evolved over a longer period than many French classics.

On to Lung King Heen and the welcome is warm and friendly, though without any air of importance and pomp. The room is loud in a colour sense; artistic almost; though projecting more about the decadent Four Seasons hotel the restaurant is housed in, rather than providing an entree into an exquisite Chinese meal. I guess in most senses it is like no other Chinese restaurant I’ve been to in almost every single way. The service was nice, not that noticeable (in a good way), attentive enough, experienced enough, but of the several floorstaff I cannot remember a flash of charisma. The reason I mention all of this to begin with is to put it aside, because in my mind, I came for the cuisine, and the cuisine is what stands out in my memory like the slow motion finish of a race.

Simmered king prawn in fermented bean sauce

Simmered king prawn in fermented bean sauce

My favourite dish on the Chef’s Tasting Menu (HK$1,750) was refreshed several times, which is the sign of a great meal. In theatrical terms, there were many highlights in the script of this Oscar nominated movie, leading to a fascinating climax, and a short, reasonably satisfying ending. The climax was the “wok-fried superior Australian wagyu beef cubes with sarcodon aspratus and capsicum”. Now, I do realise that I just mentioned my favourite dish contained Australian wagyu beef, but this is absolutely in no way a patriotic or emotionally subjective inkling. Actually, the star of this dish was difficult to distinguish between amazingly flavoursome, complicated mushrooms (sarcodon aspratus), and beef that you eat in wonder at how it hasn’t melted into the bowl. There is technique used here that only the chefs and more experienced Cantonese diners could describe, but the end result is astonishing.

Braised abalone cube with star garoupa fillet in supreme oyster sauce

Braised abalone cube with star garoupa fillet in supreme oyster sauce

The next most amazing scene was the simmered king prawn in fermented black bean sauce. Besides the staggering size of the prawn, and the perfection in its just touched cooking, the delicate black bean sauce was a genius combination with what is, in the end, a sweet and subtle seafood. Keeping the gripping plot going was always going to be difficult, but the braised abalone cube with star garoupa fillet in supreme oyster sauce, amplified the light touch, but tightrope balance of executive chef Chan Yan Tak. It was fascinating that the abalone alone was very nice, and similarly the star garoupa on its own, but in combination they were outstanding.

Braised vegetable soup with lobster wanton and shredded chicken

Braised vegetable soup with lobster wanton and shredded chicken

There was quite a diverse reaction to the second course of braised vegetable soup with lobster wanton and shredded chicken. The soup was glutinous and flavoursome. The star, lobster wanton, was amazing, but all too short lived. My preference would have been to have a single large spoon of the wanton with the broth for one divine mouthful. Prior to that we had the combination of appetisers that used that same suggestion. One divine mouthful of roast goose with plum sauce, another of crispy sucking pork, and another of barbecued pork with honey. All amazing, but showing that if you copy classics you can only elevate them so far, but if you create new dishes like the others on this menu, you can really make an outstanding statement.

Ginger soup with sweet potato and glutinous rice dumplings

Ginger soup with sweet potato and glutinous rice dumplings

However, the dessert went a little too far for my tastes, and the rest of the table. This was the time where, after one outstanding dish after another, our minds turned to the sweet side of things. The ginger soup was delicious, but not sweet. In fact, with a little sweet potato in each bite, it was bordering savoury. The glutinous rice dumplings, in themselves, were fantastic. I know that Chinese desserts are often not overly sweet, and the rice dumplings were a good expression of this cultural fact. Though, like the wanton, were not numerous enough to actually make an impactful statement on the dish. The Chinese petit fours with the chrysanthemum flowers and wolfberries in jelly are a classical dessert and were a nice way to end.

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I can see how Lung King Heen has been awarded so many accolades. It is the most creative Chinese cooking I’ve tried, and there were several incredible dishes, without any misses, albeit the dessert was not to my taste. Recounting on this experience, and having reflected more on it than most, leads me to believe it is near impossible to objectively compare it to most others in the same type of quality. What I can say is that there is a lot to like about the Western fine dining impact on this restaurant, and there is a lot to like about the flavours, combination and balance of the dishes I tried. The ingenuity is delicious and I hope chef Chan Yan-tak continues with it for many years to come.

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Il Lido – Cottesloe – Monday 24 November 2014 – Dinner

Tagliatelle with pork and veal ragu

Tagliatelle with pork and veal ragu

I know I am old(er) because I can remember Tropicana. The novelty of being accepted into a café while your shorts are still soaking wet and you are barefooted didn’t get tired at all. The roof top above entirely belonged to my uni mate’s share apartment. Once I got to a new year’s eve party late and it was so packed my mate had long gone to seek a quieter less stressful entry into the new year elsewhere!

Before I left Perth, I was already one of Il Lido’s biggest fans. Ever since, I have continued to come back again and again for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It has a feeling left over from Tropicana days, a style and vibe that was learned by the owners at Balthazar and Duende (amongst other great venues), and serves authentic Italian food in a casual communal environment.

Every time I come back it is an incremental addition to my opinion of the restaurant and I am biased by the previous occasions where food, wine, company, atmosphere and service have combined to account for an excellent experience. This time is not different – I have many times been here by myself for a quickish dinner – but something feels different.

It is interesting to think how the ambience at a restaurant can be so impacted by its exact location and therefore its predecessors. There are many examples I can think of that you almost know the next place is going to fail (or succeed). It’s unfortunate, but as restaurant goers we are a fickle bunch, and if you keep the same fitout it is likely we’ll find it hard to forget. On the other hand, with a little bit of effort, and something to differentiate, it is possible for the “bad corner” or “awkward part of the street” to break out of its location. From day one, Il Lido benefited from the good vibes of its predecessor and now it benefits from many years of significant patronage.

There are a lot of kids serving, from the quasi maître’d through to the bar staff. However, unlike many restaurants in Perth, where uni students dominate, the training here must be good. Not only are they full of energy and enthusiasm, they know what they are doing, and serve well. Personally, the only issue I find in even the best service by less experienced staff is the fact they themselves may not have been out to restaurants often, and rarely know how to assist with aspects such as the drinks list. The make-up and strength of the wine list becomes very important, and Il Lido’s is pretty good, and pretty reasonably priced too.

I am here alone, looking for a quick, good quality meal and I know what I want. I order the tagliatelle with pork and veal ragu. It doesn’t look great in the photo with the unusually dark and intimate low lighting juxtaposed with the communal dining element, but it tastes delicious. It has been similar for years with excellent depth of flavour from the slow cooking and beautifully formed pasta. The glass of 2009 Zanato Valpolicella combined nicely too. Instant happiness.

While it is a quick meal, I need to try the chocolate tart with hazelnut ice cream. It is a huge serving and would have been better to share. The tart is rich like you expect, and the pastry is well executed, but it misses a little on flavour for some reason. It could be the cacao which is very thick on the surface, providing a little too much bitterness and a furry mouthfeel. The hazelnut ice cream is nice, but again is not towards the top of the best hazelnut ice creams I’ve tried recently, which is a classic Italian flavour.

Something I would not have noted, but it became abundantly clear during dessert, was the lack of thought in cutlery choices. For the pasta I got a knife and fork when I really needed a fork, and could have used a spoon. For the tart and ice cream I only got a spoon, but the pastry was firm and difficult to sever with the spoon, and the tart didn’t easily scoop with the spoon and ice cream. This is a small critique but if I was with others I would have felt a bit weird constantly needing to use my left hand with the dessert which was served on a plate (not a bowl – so no help at all). It is worth thinking about the comfort of the diner in these situations. Maybe it is another flag of inexperienced waitstaff too.

I’ll never stop going back to Il Lido during all times of the day and with a broad group of people. It is a terrifically put together restaurant with many positives and only a few flaws. Bread In Common is educated by its older sibling and shows many of the benefits, but the original is still better in my opinion.

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