Dumplings

Pan fried pork dumplings

It is really difficult for the branch of an original to hit the same mark. While there are many good examples in recent times of how to get it right (or very close) with the likes of Messina, Belle’s Hot Chicken, and Fonda for a few, it becomes more difficult where the process is especially skilled.

HuTong presents an intriguing case, because the original is exceptional, and because the art of imitation seems more difficult in relation to dumplings than other less exacting dishes. The bonus for the Prahran branch of HuTong is not needing to drive into the city, relatively easy (and free) parking along Commercial Road, and a larger restaurant meaning there’s no need to wait for a table.

Casting my eye around the ground floor Cullen Hotel lodgings of HuTong Prahran it appears this venue is at least twice as large as the one on Market Lane in the City. There is a large range of dishes available, and specific inclusion of “Peking Duck” in the name, but we are here to compare the dumplings.

We order some of the usual suspects such as shao long bao (soup dumplings), pan fried pork dumplings, the prawn/scallop/pork dumplings, and in addition we try the Peking duck dumplings. It is difficult to put my finger on it, and it could be purely being in a different location, but the shao long bao wrapper is just that touch firmer in this serve. The soup and pork filling is still wonderful.

Shao long bao

The pan fried pork dumplings are served in their usual HuTong way, connected by the pancake like base that has lightly covered the pan. It is novel, but I also like the crunch. In saying that, the dumplings themselves could have been fried for that bit longer, as some are still a touch soft.

The combination dumplings of prawn, scallop and pork are generously filled with excellent quality base ingredients, and the dumpling wrapper in this case is perfect. However, the Peking duck dumplings are too glutinous, providing an unsatisfying mouthfeel, and the duck itself is not as juicy and gamey as you would expect. Catherine doesn’t even bother with her second one, but I give mine another go and it is slightly better, but we would not order this dish again.

The Thursday night crowd has now pretty much filled HuTong with a combination of couples, small and large groups. We notice that many tables are ordering from the main menu and leaving aside the dumplings which would be sacrilege at the original restaurant. The crowd alone is a good indication that the locals are appreciating having this city institution available closer to home.

While there is a tightrope to walk when expanding a brand known for its skill and quality, I think HuTong has done a good job with its foray into Prahran. The relative ease of dining here as opposed to the city makes it a real option for everyday dining, but it is unlikely to ever have the same place in my heart that its city sister does.

Crab meat & roe with pork dumplings

Much has been written about the famous Din Tai Fung. It is famous having begun in Taiwan, having a long presence in Sydney, and now recently taking up residence at the top of Melbourne’s most beautiful shopping centre, Emporium.

It’s not dirt cheap, but at these prices pretty much anyone can have a try, and the reaction is intriguing to me. My modus operandi, besides using weird words that no-one understands, is to not look at reviews in-depth about restaurants until I’ve tried them, which is an impossible task with DTF given the huge amount of press.

Char Sui Bao – pork buns

What I learned in my reading is there are some signature dumplings I need to try, that you have to wait a short time to get a table, and that there are a lot of people who have taken issue with DTF, leading to a Zomato score of a lowly 3.0 out of 5. To give an idea of why that is not ideal, there is a filter to hide places under 3.5!

However, when you look at the reviews only by bloggers, there is an entirely different story of 4.5s and 5s out of 5. Why is this the case? I’m not absolutely sure but it was front of mind as we started to eat our way through several types of dumplings following a leisurely stroll into the city.

Xiao Long Bao – steamed pork soup dumpling

My first thought is there is a cost aspect where DTF is far more expensive than the average dumpling place. When you have such rich and complex flavours bursting through the crab roe and pork soup dumpling, with a wrapper screaming perfection, the $17 for 6 of them doesn’t bother me in the slightest. But it isn’t cheap.

Shrimp and pork shao mai

Again, the prawn and pork shao mai are carefully formed, with delectable broth combining with the firm texture of the wrapper making a meal that is revered by most, for good reason. Sure, you do not need a dozen chefs in a relatively spacious kitchen, with years of experience, to make a dumpling that is comforting and full of flavour, but you do need that if you want something just that bit more special. The same goes for most food. Teenagers can cook you a burger at Macca’s, so why would anyone pay extra for Huxtaburger, or an even more expensive burger?

While I need to try a few more places, in my experience, the only dumpling house in the city that can match what we are eating is HuTong, which has always been exceptional, especially for their shao long bao soup dumplings. The ones we tried at DTF are just as gorgeous.

Black sesame ice cream and mango pudding with fresh mango

The pork buns are very good, but not at the level of the dumplings. The surprise though was the simplicity, good level of sweetness, and sound technique in the reasonably priced desserts of mango pudding with fresh mango, and black sesame ice cream. I strongly suggest leaving room!

There is plenty of conjecture about the merits of Din Tai Fung. I am pleased to say that our particular experience was excellent and at around $30 a head we will be back for plenty more!

BLK's Food Blog

100% independent views of restaurants in Melbourne and beyond

HuTong Peking Duck & Dumpling Bar – Prahran – Thursday 12 May 2016 – Dinner

Din Tai Fung – Melbourne, City – Sunday 17 April 2016 – Lunch

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