On this stretch of “beach” along Port Phillip Bay we have special memories. While we used to drive as far up the Bay as we could to swim, it has become a necessity to have some options closer to home once Sydney came along. Where Kerferd Road hits Beaconsfield Parade has acted as our main sunset beach area, enjoying some fish and chips, a swim, and some glorious family time where Syd is in his element.

During this time it has been hard not to notice Pipis Kiosk and how cute the building is. A good friend whose Mum lives nearby told us how good the restaurant is, and lo and behold it appeared in Australian Gourmet Traveller not too long after.

Tonight it is windy and there are small waves lapping the shore as we walk along the refrigerator that is Beaconsfield Parade. Entering the restaurant offers a warm welcome, but maybe not the warmth in temperature we were hoping for. We are placed on an intimate corner table on the window in this tiny restaurant, and begin noticing the majority of other early arrivals are going into the private room for a party.

The brief, seafood driven menu, has plenty of enticing options and in no time we have concocted a delicious plan for a feast. One thing about this restaurant is the wine bar aspect, which sees some tremendous options by the glass or half bottle carafe. Initially we start with a Blanc de Blancs from Champagne; perfectly fit for a celebration.

The Sydney Rock oysters we ordered from Merimbula arrive on the table with a rhubarb mignonette, along with salt cod croquettes and aioli. It’s a great start. Fresh on the one side, and salty oily deliciousness on the other. Shortly after we are on to a carafe of By Farr ‘Farr Rising’ Chardonnay which is immaculate.

The Port Arlington mussels we share are extraordinary in a way that mussels in a deeply flavoured white wine and cream sauce can be. There is something about the combination that always gets me when it is done really well, and mopped up with the superb seaweed sourdough, and drenched with the Chardonnay, things are going great. In fact, we need a short break before mains as the mussels came immediately after our starters.

This gives us a chance to enjoy the atmosphere in the restaurant, which is boisterous on the private dining side, and more balanced in the dining room. There seems to be a couple on the bar who are mates with the staff, and the restaurant is now close to full. Service is super friendly, but our position in the restaurant is a touch awkward, and there are several times where getting attention is difficult, but doesn’t detract too much from the overall experience.

Confit duck leg is close to perfectly cooked, and the cassoulet accompanying speaks of wintery goodness. Next to a premier cru Burgundy from the impressive list, it is duck and pinot heaven. Catherine’s rainbow trout is striking, much like Catherine herself tonight. Leek adds flavour and some texture against the softness of the fish, which plays the starring role. Nicely cooked chips, as you’d expect at a kiosk, and Ramarro wide leaf rocket salad with black pepper and pecorino is the salad equivalent of pepe e cacio. We finish everything and break for dessert.

Not realising the size of the dessert servings, we order both to share. The custard apple ice cream over meringue with passionfruit is what we initially go for, and it has a good amount of sweetness and texture. The warm cuvee chocolate tart however is easily the star, served with tangerine semifreddo and almond. The richness defeats us ultimately, but it is hard to regret having tried both desserts.

While we went all-out for this celebration, it is possible to dine here for quite a reasonable price per head. It’s in a magic spot, serving fine dining food, in a more relaxed atmosphere, with a wine list that makes you want to live nearby.

Pipis Kiosk (Restaurant and Wine Bar)
https://www.pipiskiosk.com.au
129A Beaconsfield Parade, Albert Park
Open daily from midday
03-9041-2814
HELLO@PIPISKIOSK.COM.AU