barramundi

There are a host of reasons we love to go out to eat. In a relative sense, there are not many restaurants that create more than the experience itself. Every now and then though, something more comes out of a visit. For Catherine and I, our first date at Stokehouse continued through to marriage!

Yellowfin tuna ceviche

I remember our lunch far better than I normally would. It was an incredibly hot November day. So hot that I brought a backpack with a towel so I could have a swim afterwards. St Kilda was pumping, and my taxi took at least 20 minutes just to get down Fitzroy Street. Catherine looked beautiful and had gone to a heap of effort.

We started off with oysters and I had no idea it was the first time for my guest. The things you do on first dates! The restaurant had a celebratory feel the day after Stakes Day at Flemington. Every aspect was wonderful and it goes without saying that it was the best first date (and the last) I’ll ever have.

Poached marron salad

When we found it had been razed by fire there was a sudden sadness. We knew with such an iconic place, rebuilding was likely, and that is why we are here tonight, a few months after the reopening. It is modern. These days, recreating the original would probably be as difficult and expensive as making a bold new statement. The design is stylish, making great use of the beach view, with enough detail inside to keep interest in both.

Our greeting, through to the goodbye, were warm and friendly. It seems the floor has found its feet. We took up the offering for a drink on the terrace to begin. Watching the sun go down is one of those added extras that is difficult to value. As long as the view doesn’t outshine the food, or give the restaurant something to hide behind, it is extremely valuable to the way you are feeling as you begin your meal.

Heirloom tomato salad

Once seated and reading through the menu, I realised that Stokehouse wasn’t primarily about seafood anymore. In fact, only two of the six mains are fish. I was in the mood for seafood and ordered both the special ceviche of yellowfin tuna, and a couple of Sydney Rock oysters to begin, plus the fish and chips for my main. Catherine ordered the marron salad which would have been my choice, and also the market fish of Barramundi. We were undoubtedly going to try dessert too.

Fish and chips

Our sommelier was particularly helpful at providing alternatives to the bottle I was thinking of, but in the end we stayed on course with the Louis Michel Premier Cru Chablis. He was right that the wine is quite light for a chardonnay, but it is exquisitely made, and was a pleasure to drink, especially with our entrees. The yellowfin tuna ceviche showed off the star ingredient. It had a pleasant amount of citrus, and was superbly presented. Interestingly the dusting on top was bayleaf, and that worked too. The Sydney Rock oysters were exactly what you want to eat on the beach and would be a great entree alone this evening. Catherine’s poached marron salad with a motley of fresh vegetables, was a brilliant way to start. The marron beautifully cooked and working nicely with the finger lime cream and rhubarb vinaigrette.

Barramundi with smoked almond puree, beurre noisette and carrot reduction

The fish and chips are not my usual order at a restaurant like Stokehouse but tonight I really felt like fish, and I wanted to try something different to Catherine. Her Barramundi was a perfect serve with a good fillet of fish, perfectly cooked, in a smoked almond puree, with a beurre noisette (brown butter) sauce, and carrot reduction. Each bite I tried was delicious, though I was very happy with my own choice. The lightly battered whiting, on top of a picket fence of thick chips in a pool of tartare sauce, was exactly how fish and chips should be, but rarely are. Our waitperson had suggested the heirloom tomato salad to cut through the oil, and that was a good idea, with several kinds of tomatoes all exhibiting good flavour. A simple enhancement would be some more basil throughout.

‘The Bombe’

We definitely had room for dessert, and we needed it! Catherine’s ‘The Bombe’ was a terrific take on the classic dish. The white chocolate parfait in the centre, next to the strawberry sorbet, all housed in a well executed meringue, were all delicious and beyond. We like desserts that don’t hide the fact that they are sweet and this was a prime example, without being sickly (though it is a large serving). On the flip side, my dried lime cheesecake, was more restrained on the sweetness, but still delivered in spades. This version wasn’t your classic, but it wasn’t so much deconstructed as just not having a base. The mango and coconut curd are friends with the creamy cheesy lime, and while again it was a good serving, I could have kept going.

Dried lime cheesecake

The original Stokehouse felt a bit more sleek at times, but the new version is still finding its feet. One thing is for sure, all the floorstaff were eager to make our night memorable, and they succeeded. The food we ate was up to scratch for what you expect of a place with the reputation Stokehouse must carry. That reputation creates expectation so we were careful, but it is impossible to not be excited by the potential embodied by this restaurant. Thinking about the experience brings a smile to my face.

Twice baked Blue Manna crab soufflé, crab bisque sauce, soft herbs

New Year’s Eve may be just another night, but it is one of the few dates in the year where you generally remember what you did, even if only for the past few years. It is an excuse to celebrate and it is an excuse to indulge.

After particularly impressive pre-drinks across the street at The Queens, we ventured the short distance to Must Wine Bar to see what was about to be served in the lead up to 2016. We were in good spirits from a combination of the ten dollar prohibition cocktails on offer, and the enthusiastic performance of the staff, all dressed in prohibition theme, and genuinely enjoying their night, albeit at work.

Starters included Gin cured salmon fillet, cucumber remoulade; and oyster natural with pickled carrot salad

While we are on a high, over the road at Must it is a different story with the staff. It seems they’ve had a difficult time getting the first sitting away from their tables, meaning they are about fifteen minutes behind time for our 9pm sitting, and you can tell that they are stressed. In fact, they keep their head down and not once in that prevailing fifteen minutes are we given a quick “sorry” and a shrug, or even a joke to lighten the wait. In fact, this would have been the perfect time to serve the “on arrival” glass of Perrier Jouet.

Once seated, the offerings we read on the menu are enough to quickly forget the greeting, or lack thereof. There are great options for entrée, main and dessert, making it difficult to decide, and requiring some coordination. In the end most of us have the crab soufflé or the pork belly for entrée; the Harvey beef or barramundi for main; and the pavlova or cherry dessert.

Slow cooked pork belly, chick pea & chorizo braise, apple & radish salad, pork crackle crisp

To begin we are all served with an oyster with a carrot and dill dressing, a corn croquette, and a spoon of gin cured salmon. None of the starters is remarkable, but they are all quite okay. The bread is amazing though, and it always has been since opening over a decade ago.

Grilled barramundi fillet, heirloom tomato, basil & chat potato salad

Quickly the food ascends to excellence, with a twice baked Blue Manna crab soufflé that is delicate, showing off the crab filling and its subtle flavour. The small amount of bisque surrounding the soufflé is tasty in itself but we expect the small amount is to ensure the soufflé is not overwhelmed. The pork belly is also very nice, and well executed, but not quite as different and exciting as the soufflé.

Slow roast Harvey beef fillet, beetroot risotto, feta whip

I was second to order my courses, and had ordered duck initially, only to immediately change to the Harvey beef such was the tension in my choice. But I think I did the right thing. The beef fillet is superbly cooked medium rare, consistent across the three of us who ordered it, and complimented by a robust beetroot risotto. The barramundi is beautifully cooked too, a staggering job by the kitchen keeping in mind that we have a full restaurant, and all of us have sat down at the same time.

The food had eclipsed any issues with the initial service, though it was a theme that the staff were not really very engaging, or friendly throughout. With great company and excellent wine, it really didn’t matter in the end. In particular, a 2013 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon was absolutely delicious, with the classic notes you get from Wilyabrup Cab Sav and plenty of layers of dark berry fruit. It was a sophisticated way to see out 2015.

Vanilla cream, Weiss chocolate crumbs, Manjimup cherry sorbet

As we approached midnight we enjoyed the dessert and petit fours which were terrific chocolate truffles. My vanilla, chocolate and cherry dessert was excellent providing beautiful tastes and textures, without going to far outside the box. When the clock struck midnight we entered the new year with a full belly and a nice alcoholic glow!

Much is made of new year’s eve because we make much of it. To me, the recipe for a great new year is to do what you enjoy during the rest of the year, and Must put on a show that I would go back for on a more ordinary night, hopefully with happier staff.

BLK's Food Blog

100% independent views of restaurants in Melbourne and beyond

Stokehouse – St Kilda – Thursday 23 March 2017 – Dinner

Must Wine Bar – Highgate – Thursday 31 December 2015 – Dinner

Please share:

Please share: