Cafe Paci – Newtown, Sydney – Saturday 25 January 2025 – Lunch

One of our superpowers when it comes to restaurants is taking recommendations. When combined with personal research, it is hard to go wrong, especially in a town like Sydney. Taking recommendations is not blind, and filtering them is, similar to research, the most important part.

I have a handful of friends, and acquaintences, who I intently listen to when offering thoughts on their restaurant experiences. After many years, there are many others I know when to follow their advice, or divert. It is often a matter of understanding what is important to the person offering advice, and finding those who align with your preferences.

Introspectively, I know that people do not listen to my advice when it comes to value for money. I’m someone who gets asked once or twice a year by some people for a special occasion; not where the best burger joint is (though I am interested if you know!)

On a three night holiday in Sydney there are a plethora of options, and the stars aligned when I noticed a friend had loved Cafe Paci, and their meal was around the time I flicked through the Australian Gourmet Traveller restaurant guide, and saw it had taken out their top spot in NSW. The way it was described was compelling, and the offerings were not necessarily what I have become used to with the winners in the AGT guide. I was curious.

Catherine, Sydney, and I, headed to Newtown by train, getting off at Macdonald, which is a stroll to Cafe Paci and the vibrant neighbourhood that is Newtown. The thin rectangular restaurant with tables down the right, and a long inviting bar down the left, doesn’t scream fine dining, but it does announce itself as smart casual and contemporary. It is comfortable, not luxurious; a short stay, not resort accommodation.

When we start with a wine it comes out immediately, poured by the waitperson who served us. It’s a nice touch, and the service style, a balance of relaxed and professional, continues along this path for the entirety of our meal. We are made to feel at home in a way a wine bar often does, especially when any stuffiness or pomp is removed.

The menu is diverse, though not outrageously, and narrowing down our selections is a delicate pursuit. To begin, Catherine opts for the devilled egg with trout roe; I with the rye taco with ox tongue and sauerkraut. My ox tongue snack is outstanding, and Catherine’s devilled egg is nostalgic (and filling).

Snapper ceviche is dotted with nectarine and radish that requires a keen eye to decipher between. The flavour matches the presentation, along with the Garganuda Soave. Moving through to glasses of the Marsanne blend from the Loire Valley, and the Rasa Sal Vine Vale Semillon (SA), we are served the Skull Island king prawns. They’re not cheap, but there is a generous serve of utterly beautiful large prawns split in two, with lashings of black pepper butter and lime.

Next, Black Angus steak frites comes with sauce Diane. Intuitively I know what Diane is, but if you asked me to explain its history and ingredients I would have no clue. In simple terms it is a mushroom cream sauce with plenty of pepper, and originally served with venison (and containing truffles rather than mushrooms). There’s a bit of a nod to the old school here, and it is coolly executed. An Emilia-Romagna Sangiovese washes it down, and a leafy salad with a sweet vinaigrette cuts through the richness.

At this stage of proceedings we are more than satisfied, but dessert beckons. It’s yet another mild surprise in a meal that has presented fairly straightforward and delicious food, but always elevated an aspect, whether it be presentation, flavour, execution, or a bit of all three. Here it is the trickles of caramel that add a burst of the sweetness we yearn for, with amaretto ice cream and peach granita balancing each other wonderfully.

The whole experience had been a pleasure. The final surprise was the bill, which in my book is value for money, but I’m not always the greatest judge!

Cafe Paci
https://www.cafepaci.com.au
131 King Street, Newtown, Sydney
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm to 10pm; Lunch on Saturday
Email: info@cafepaci.com.au
Tel: 0402392189

Leave a comment