Daniel – Upper East Side – Thursday 14 June 2018 – Dinner

We have come from Brandy’s Piano Bar in the Upper East Side and life is incredible. There are certain times you have a meal and the first thing you think about as you go to bed is how you could ever do justice to describing it to your friends and family. Well tonight I’ll try before bed.

As I drink a sour beer from the craft beer shop down the road I am thinking of how to put the experience at Daniel into words. Firstly, it was not perfect, thank goodness. If there was not one small error made I would have nothing to strive for in dining terms. The imperfections were incidental and minor, so this is an absolutely huge night out.

Carotte – chilled carrot veloute with Peekytoe crab, chemoula cream, confit ginger and lovage oil

I’m thinking about the carrot veloute with Peekytoe crab. A cold carrot soup that is indescribably deep in flavour, showing off reasonably generous portions of crab, and slithers of carrot that are heavenly. Combining with the Premier Cru Beaune chardonnay (we got a half bottle), I am in my own little heaven.

Pigeonneau – roasted squab breast with oats, confit legs, barley risotto, fava bean savoury coulis, “Sauce Forestiere”

There is the second ten out of ten course in a row for me with the squab (pigeon) cooked medium rare, crusted in oats, with the most astonishing barley risotto I have ever tasted. The first thing I tasted was that barley, and then the mushrooms, layer on layer of perfectly seasoned flavour making me metaphorically blush for my own attempts at risotto. Then there are the several types of mushrooms accompanying the pigeon, and the chicken jus that is drizzled by the waitperson in a seemingly frivolous manner, but is as important as any other element. The burgundy chosen by the charismatic sommelier tops off the combination but in reality the wine is a bonus.

Saint Jacques – ceviche of Maine sea scallops, finger lime-wasabi vinaigrette, cilantro, avocado mousseline, white sturgeon caviar

At this stage Catherine is pretty much twenty out of twenty too. Her scallop ceviche melts in her mouth. This is not ordinary seafood. Again the seas have swept something special up, and Daniel Bould has elevated it with avocado, finger lime and white sturgeon caviar. The follow up is a fish that is new to us, Arctic Char, that is covered in avocado, and married with asparagus, fennel and sorrel cream to provide another intriguingly familiar but different experience.

Omble Chevalier – Arctic Char poached in a star anise “Court-Bouillon”, fennel, wild asparagus and sorrel cream

As we enjoy our third course, it is childish for me to say that I had a slight envy for Catherine’s wagyu even though I was enjoying the most beautiful medium rare veal tenderloin enveloped in gorgonzola that I’ve ever had. Along with the fregola and veal jus amongst other elements I was not in a position to be jealous. The Nebbiolo dominant wine from Northern Italy was a perfect match too.

Veau – roasted veal tenderloin with chalkidiki olives, toasted fregola, spinach subric, Gorgonzola emulsion with oregano

Catherine’s wagyu was simply outstanding. Looking at the menu it sounds like beef, potatoes and mushrooms. It is and it isn’t. The mushrooms are provided on thin strips of beautifully crisp potatoes and in the form of a “mushroom quiche” that looks more like a mushroom mille-feuille. They are all quite extraordinary. And she got the Graves’ Bordeaux that is Merlot dominant too. A serious winning combination that could rival the pinot-duck and fish-chardonnay match if it was more prevalent.

Wagyu – Scharbauer Ranch Wagyu strip loin, morels, pomme “Pont-Neuf”, green peppercorn sauce

Like interval at a performance, we were talking about where this particular meal stacked up. It is always difficult to determine at the time. All we can say is that dessert met (or was close) to its savoury counterparts. Catherine’s rhubarb dessert was superb from my one taste.

Rhubarbe – Benedictine poached rhubarb, aloe vera, iyokan confit, and rhubarb ice cream

My dessert was more like a work of chocolate art. The first one I finished, but the last that I tasted, was the peppery chocolate ice cream such was its addictiveness. In between the mousse was gorgeous, and the Equadorian grand cru fondant was my start and end with the cream in the middle, and gold leaf, providing the extra edge. A Hungary tokjii was also beautiful to combine, in my humble opinion.

 

As the petit fours of chocolates (pineapple, bergamot, blueberry and raspberry), and house signature Madeleines came out, we were not daunted. We had gone toe to toe with the bread basket too – the baguette, brioche, three grain, and parmesan, all doing their bid for supremacy and the salted butter showing off the beauty of simplicity.

Arriba – Ecuadorian grand cru fondant, timiz pepper cacao ice cream, sage chocolate mousse

Our waitstaff were superb. To fault them would be nitpicking. There was care and attention; professionalism and attention; delicacy and humour. We simply had a wonderful time. It is crazy to imagine there are people out there who get to enjoy this on regular occasions. Unlike that wagyu dish that I want more of, there is no jealousy. We’ve just had an experience that feels like it is once in a lifetime.

Daniel Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Three Amazing New York Burgers – New York City – June 2014

This is part of a collection of short reviews from my travels around the USA in June.

Diversity is very important to me. That includes my choice in restaurants, and the dishes I choose to eat. So what happened?

In New York for less than 96 hours (or 4 days) either side of a quick trip to Salvador in Brazil for the World Cup, on reflection, I realised that I tried three burgers in that time. Three burgers that are worth talking about!

USC Burger

USC Burger

Union Square Cafe – Lunch

My personal discovery of USC was back in 2004. I dined alone on the bar and have a photo that brings me back there regularly in my mind, but this is the first time in a little over 10 years that I’ve actually come back. It was one of those meals you dream about.

I’m back but this time my wife and I are meeting up with my cousin, Lisa, and food is secondary to catching up. We chatted for ages over three Moscow Mules. Once we came to order, hunger had taken over. I’d heard about the burger. I’d had one for supper the night before but I just couldn’t go past it.

Incredible! Cooked medium rare the burger is juicy goodness. Everything else is just as beautiful, immaculate actually. There’s the light brioche bun that holds the burger together rather well; thin crispy bacon to add a punch of saltiness; pickles; and indulgent cheddar cheese in good measure. The fries are as good as you would expect given the quality of the burger.

Now I have a different fond memory to add to my memories of a decade ago. There is something magical about USC.

Union Square Cafe on Urbanspoon

Hamburger

Hamburger

Corner Bistro – After Midnight

People say going to New York can be comforting given the familiarity we have with one of the great cities of the world. I agree, and the consistency of my first few hours in New York for my last three trips also has something to do with it on a personal level.

Whether it is unfortunate planning, or subconscious leanings, I have arrived in NYC really late each time. It might look as though the city doesn’t sleep, but trust me that the chefs eventually need to (via a bar or two). So looking for an awe inspiring meal after midnight can be a challenge if you don’t know about the institutional Corner Bistro in West Village.

I love the burger. It is simple, cheap, great. Fresh ingredients along with a thick pattie cooked medium and a good helping of decent fries. Wash it down with some cheap mugs of beer in a room that has seen countless people having a great time all hours of the day for years.

Corner Bistro on Urbanspoon

Minetta Burger

Minetta Burger

Minetta Tavern – dinner

There are few places where so much contemporary cool gels with old-school speakeasy glamour. Minetta didn’t spring up yesterday and it has got it completely right.

Straight after walking through the curtain you are met by the maitre’d which is a little intimidating, especially if you just feel like a drink in the bar. Rest assured, the entire floor staff are excellent hosts. Personally, my favourite place to sit for dinner is the bar, the vantage point for people watching too good to trade for the slightly quieter dining room. Tonight we are in the dining room and the action is still steady.

I’m afraid to say that I’ve only ever had the burger here. My friend has ordered a pasta which looks fabulous but as I grab my burger there is not a hint of envy. I threw in the tomato and lettuce on the side and was ready to go. The brioche bun holds the burger well with great medium rare cooked juicy beef smothered in cheddar cheese and a pickle to the side. The fries are excellent too.

Like Corner Bistro, only in a different sense, the vibe of Minetta is the intangible ingredient that adds extra flavour. Not only are the floor staff smooth and professional, they are also a little wicked. A polite warning early in the evening about the chocolate soufflé taking twenty minutes put paid to any attempt to forgo dessert on the way to the Comedy Cellar. It was great, and one of the biggest I’ve ever seen! Easily enough for the four of us and the first part of a great evening was complete.

Chocolate souffle

Chocolate souffle

Minetta Tavern on Urbanspoon