Tao Tao House – Hawthorn – Sunday 16 November 2014 – Yum Cha

Custard tart

Custard tart

Is it just me, or is yum cha the most intimidating form of dining? For a polite diner, it often feels like asking the person on the trolley to repeat themselves is a faux pas. But a few more moments of consideration, or too much reflection, and you might think they don’t actually want you to know. In year’s gone by I have opted, given my ability to eat anything, to just try anything and everything. Lately I am improving in both execution and timing.

I love pork buns. I do not care how novice it might be to continue to love pork buns. Maybe the equivalent of continuing to enjoy fairy bread in your thirties. Through this love I have learned one very important thing. Places doing yum cha keep the pork buns and present them when you can’t possibly eat anything more. When the only reason you are doing this to yourself is because of pure love. Well, I am on to this and I never get “full” until I have tried my pork bun. Note there is always room for dessert.

Mango pudding

Mango pudding

Tao Tao House looks like your classic suburban Chinese restaurant. It is quaint with an inviting themed entrance, clean and organised (important for pushing trolleys through), and very comfortable. Diners are not pushed together like passengers on a plane, and we in fact have two on a table for four! We are hit up to try the prawn dumplings immediately having had our first sip of tea and it is on!

As I have eluded I am not the authority on yum cha (or dim sum as I grew up with in Perth). I feel out of my comfort zone from the time I enter to the time I leave and my common trait of not wanting to say no has got me into trouble on more than one outing. There is something different about Tao Tao House though. The staff are very friendly – not in an off-putting or disarming way – but in a way where you don’t feel terrible saying “no”.

Prawn dumplings

Prawn dumplings

On the journey to the pork bun, rejecting trolley after trolley becomes more and more second nature. On our way we try the prawn dumplings and prawn toast. The dumplings are steamed and keep their form in a glutinous wrapper perfectly. The prawn filling is nice, but the chilli sauce adds the impact they need. The prawn toast are excellent. Crunchy toast, fresh juicy prawn, and toasted sesame seeds is a good way to start the day.

Chicken siu mai

Chicken siu mai

Between rejections we eat the duck pancakes which are the richest dish we try. There is a good amount of duck amongst mushrooms, contained in a wrapping of soft duck skin. Next comes the chicken siu mai which has a delicious chicken mixture tightly wrapped in a harder textured style dumpling. After getting our hopes up with chicken buns finally out come the char siu bao or steamed pork buns! They are light and fluffy with a rich pork filling that is satisfying for two reasons. The first is to my taste buds and the second to my stomach which for once isn’t already completely full.

Pork buns

Pork buns

To end we try the mango pudding. This is one of the more savoury puddings I’ve tried at yum cha with a focus on the mango, rather than the sugar. I can’t be sure whether it is fresh mango but it is still delicious and the syrup does give a little more of a sugar hit without being over the top. We are almost ready to ask for the bill but there is only so far I can go with rejection and turning down the custard tarts, while it had been spoken about, was just not possible. They were one of the highlights of our meal and judging by the other tables, one of the highlights of most!
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Yum cha is always going to feel a bit different to me. Trying new foods and flavours is exciting, but normally you have some sort of guide or description on a menu, rather than someone who has to repeat themselves hundreds of times around a room full of tables with varying degrees of understanding. Either way, the quality of yum cha at Tao Tao House is high, and the staff are polite and reasonably helpful. Our tip was 100% for the waitperson who took it upon themselves to grab the pork buns before they went around on the trolley and deliver them immediately. Thank you very much!

Tao Tao House on Urbanspoon

Crabapple Kitchen – Hawthorn – Friday 29 August 2014 – Lunch

Crabapple Sliders

Crabapple Sliders

Hawthorn has a rich selection cafes, many of which are Melbourne’s best. This includes Porgie + Mrs Jones, Axil Roasters, Liar Liar, and several others I’ve tried, which all have their own distinctive personality. Yet I find the dynamic between Hawthorn, and its close neighbour Richmond (where I live and work), to be very different.

It could just be me. I’ve been a repeat visitor to many of these cafes but have never become a regular. It could be the fact that my compass leads me towards the city rather than further East, even though I’m happy to travel a long way for a good breakfast. Either way I am often more comfortable in Richmond.

Crabapple Kitchen may be in a similar vein, though there is a dish on this menu that I can’t get out of my mind. The “Crabapple Slider” featuring spanner crab in brioche along with Granny Smith apple, breakfast radish, and mustard cress, is a wonderful dish. The delicate crab works in complete harmony with the buttery richness of the brioche. The julienned Granny Smith apple, mustard cress, and breakfast radish, are excellent accompaniments, with mayonnaise bringing it all together.

The cafe itself, on a busy part of Glenferrie Road near the train station, is playful and charming. The floorstaff wear bluetooth ear pieces which I’m not sure about, as it is a little disconcerting when you realise they are being spoken at, while also speaking to you. Other than when they are interrupted mid-sentence they are polite and friendly.

The great thing about this cafe is the outdoors area out the back. There is plenty of seating and the heaters are on, but it would be even better if it was a warm sunny day. Although a little chilly today, everyone is in good spirits as you would expect at Friday lunch.

Crabapple Kitchen is a fantastic venue with really interesting breakfast and lunch dishes not to mention a great drinks list that is particularly important for Friday lunch!

Crabapple Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Duck balls

Duck balls

Post script

Not having been able to get the Crabapple sliders out of my head, we were back for another lunch. This time I settled on just one and shared the spiced duck meatballs too.

The balls came on a bed of smashed butterbean, plenty of mashed avocado and some goat’s feta. The balls themselves were delicious, though naturally losing some of their gaminess by being minced and spiced. The chilli topping the balls was just the right heat and the other accompaniments worked well. Julie asked for some sourdough to help mop up the butterbean concoction and it was a stroke of genius. I proceeded to make mine an open sandwich and I suggest others do the same!

There was a good amount of energy in the cafe again and it was full for Friday. The wine list is quite diverse and we all chose different glasses. To finish we all shared the brownie. There are several additions to the dish to make it a modern gourmet dessert, but the star is the brownie which is rich and gooey. It definitely would be a tough ask for one person.

Another good experience and my need for crab and apple in a slider is a little duller (but surely will come back again quite soon).

Crabapple Kitchen on Urbanspoon