Oleana – Cambridge, Boston – Monday 20 October 2014 – Dinner

Duck shish

Duck shish

After a day of seeing the sights Boston has to offer, we were back around Harvard to try a Mediterranean restaurant that had been recommended to us by a colleague who worked in Boston for a year. On approach it was hard to spot, reminding me in a sense of the last time we ate near a famous US College at Chez Panisse.

Oleana has a neighborhood feel and once you are inside that comfort extends to the warmth of the room, both in literal and figurative terms. We were seated at a table in the main dining room and our waitperson explained the sharing nature of the menu, recommending a quantity of four to six dishes. From the start to the finish service was articulate and attentive with a manner that sat well with the convivial nature of the restaurant.

Apple Fatoush

Apple Fatoush

The first dish we shared set the scene for some terrific combinations of Mediterranean flavours, focussing on ingredients most seen in Greece. The Apple Fotoush salad was beautifully dressed with a burst of pomegranate in most mouthfuls. The ingredients including cos (Romaine) and beets were all cut nice and small to make it possible to combine the ingredients which were all fresh and vibrant, with a crunch from the crisp pita.

Moussaka

Moussaka

Next came the moussaka which had several points of difference to the norm. The eggplant layering the bottom presented as babaganoush, and crisp brussel sprouts topping the other ingredients. Fried mussels rounded out our smaller plates. They were nicely cooked, but lacked the zing of the other starters. The Turkish tarator sauce was delicious though.

Fried mussels

Fried mussels

In preparation for dessert we only shared one larger plate which was the duck shish with figs, beets, smoked wheat pilav and walnuts. It was a terrific amount of food and huge in flavour. Whilst contemporary, there was the inevitable thought back to places like Santorini, though unfortunately I didn’t see any duck going around the Caldera!

Saffron zoulbia, sekel pear, pomegranate sorbet and pistachios

Saffron zoulbia, sekel pear, pomegranate sorbet and pistachios

After such a good savoury experience we had to try dessert and one each for that matter. Catherine chose best with the “Saffron Zoulbia, Sekel Pear, Pomegranate Sorbet & Pistachios” which was a delicious combination of Middle Eastern flavours. My almond cremolata, chocolate panino and cocoa nib granola was restrained, with the almond cremolata a little dull, but the technique behind the pastry was executed with skill and my menu envy negated a little.

Almond Cremolata

Almond Cremolata

Full on a Monday night, with several larger groups, you could tell this is a constantly customed venue. As the wine from a good list flowed, the atmosphere grew, and everyone was satisfied and happy. Oleana is a great restaurant in a city reputed for its food and the chefs are dishing up innovative Meditteranean cuisine that speaks of its origins.

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Jimmy Grants – Fitzroy – Thursday 3 July 2014 – Dinner

The Bonegilla and Hellenic Slaw

The Bonegilla and Hellenic Slaw

What a business! In one of the most competitive dining areas in Australia, Jimmy Grants has a line out the door on a frosty Thursday night! The formula for success seems so obvious and it often is when it is so overwhelming.

There is something comforting about a souva. For years it was the equivalent of any other fast food aiding and abetting a drinker. Now it is the start of the night, taking me back to Santorini and a great souva bar called Obelisk. It is like I woke up one day and all of a sudden someone had revealed that traditional Greek is actually possible in Melbourne!

It is impossible not to compare to Gazi. In brief, Gazi is better. Hence the price point is lower and there is a more casual, in an out, vibe. However, I would not describe Jimmy Grants as a poorer cousin.

My “the Bonegilla” souva was eagerly anticipated and literally gobbled up in minutes. It is a good size, filled with a combination of chicken and melt-in-the-mouth lamb with mustard aioli, onions and parsley, but the stars after the lamb are the pita which is perfect and the golden seasoned chips. Catherine’s Nonna Maria is the same but just with chicken. I found the Hellenic slaw great for a few mouthfuls, but the chefs were too heavy handed with the mayo which made the next few mouthfuls more than enough.

For a bit more of a group there is slow roasted lamb and chicken from the spit at reasonable prices. Seating, due to the popularity of this place, is at a premium but it is actually quite a reasonable space. You order from the bar, but only once you have a table (unless taking away), and there are a good selection of Greek beers to wash down the souva.

For dessert, we moved around the corner for ice cream at Messina Gelato which is a must try!

Jimmy Grants is also in the CBD and there is a pop up at 80 Collins Street along with Kong and St Ali. It feels much more akin to sister restaurants than your classic chain and is producing souva that I am addicted to!

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