Messina Gelato – Richmond – Numerous Occasions

Strawberry and choc mint

Strawberry and choc mint

Magnificent gelato provides some of my fondest food memories. There are few other foods that capture the imagination of young, old and in between, like ice cream.

Before I write about Messina Gelato I need to recount how I found my favourite gelato in the whole world, and my last experience there. A little over ten years ago I was the majority way through a ten week world trip spending time in the home of gelato before finishing up in Hong Kong. Having spent some time in the north-west towns of Torino, Alba, Genoa, and Varazze, my next plan was for Florence.

Being on my own, and starting to tire from my plan of walking hotel to hotel once getting to the next city, I decided to try to book in Florence. After five (expensive) phone calls on my Nokia, I decided Florence was not going to happen this time. Instead, I extended my time in Rome and headed there by train. Six years later I had the opportunity to spend time in Florence and Pisa, and it was as good as I thought it would be.

Messina Gelato

Messina Gelato

Once in Rome I met a bunch of people at the hostel near the Vatican, and naturally had an affinity with the food lovers. One of the guys was particularly helpful and pushed me in the direction of San Crispino which at the time only had one gelateria (there are now a couple) near the Trevi Fountain. It blew my world. Everything I had learned about ice cream was obsolete. I had a new standard, a new natural high that was insatiable. I attribute at least one of the kilograms I put on that trip purely to San Crispino.

I have returned twice to Rome since then but all too briefly. Both times have been with Catherine, once the day before I proposed, and the second time was just one night during our honeymoon on the way to Santorini. That night we managed to try five different flavours each between two of their shops on a walk that took us by the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo de Fiori, Trevi, The Roman Forum and Colosseum, all after dinner. There is no other place in the world like it.

Bounty and apple pie

Bounty and apple pie

Besides the gelato at Messina being exceptional, there is a great deal that reminds me of San Crispino, and naturally then of Rome and Italy.

The consistency between sites is amazing. Having recently been to both Smith Street, and the new shop in Richmond, not to mention the original shop in Darlinghurst in April, I can confidently say that the growth in shops has not changed the consistent high quality. The staff have an obvious appreciation and enjoyment from working for such a successful brand, and the free tastings that must come with the role!

The gelato, whether it be creamy or not, usual or unusual, fruit, nut or otherwise, is brilliant across the board. I wouldn’t like to list the number of flavours I’ve tried through guilt, but so far in Richmond between Catherine and I we have tried pistachio, bounty, chocolate sorbet, strawberry, choc mint, macadamia crunch, banana split, raspberry, and apple pie, and it is difficult to pick between them, but they are all beautiful. The flavours really shine. For example, in the choc mint you can really taste the actual mint, not some sugary manufactured mint flavour. In the macadamia there is a handful of macadamias (at least) and in the apple pie they have had to focus on the stewed apples no less than a quality baker would.

I was so excited about Messina opening in Richmond that I followed its progress almost day to day. The sign going up was a milestone, and about a week later the doors opened. We were just about to walk down last Sunday and Catherine stopped and said “but that would be my fourth time in eight days”. We decided to wait a couple more days!
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Eleven Madison Park – New York City – Thursday 12 June 2014 – Lunch

Entry to Eleven Madison Park

Entry to Eleven Madison Park

When you are on your way to one of the world’s best restaurants a number of things go through your mind. For me, normally whether I can afford it, and will it dish up what I hope for.

This time around I had one main measuring stick, Columbus Circle’s Per Se. The walk from our friends place in Chelsea was short but very sweet. And in the park, the line at the Shake Shack was 200 metres long already (at least).

I know a fair number of people who’ve eaten at Eleven Madison Park and my expectations were tempered. It was my last day with Catherine before the World Cup, so good company was guaranteed!

Lobster - Poached with Beets, Ginger and Nasturitum

Lobster – Poached with Beets, Ginger and Nasturitum

The entry is not spectacular which straight away eases the pressure and intimidation that you can feel at such a restaurant. Don’t get me wrong, the Art Deco entry is pretty cool. It is also below Credit Suisse which offsets the ease a little! The staff throughout were as you would expect at a three Michelin star restaurant if you are ticking off the good aspects. What we didn’t expect from the staff was the ease they put us at. Three or four very relevant and clear, but uncommon questions, and a few explanations were absolutely so juxtaposed to the stuff you get at many fine diners that we knew we were up for something not just special but magnificent.

And then came the food!

My main measurement of great restaurants is firstly not having any “misses” in a degustation – tick. Next comes new flavours and some surprises – tick, tick, tick. After that comes the fun, theatre, company, and a bill that is either commensurate or close to what you just experienced – all ticks.

The fun and theatre is epitomised by Eleven’s take on Katz Deli’s classic pastrami on rye. I love Katz’s but Eleven takes it to a level only a master could attempt. The pastrami itself is melt-in-the-mouth! Along with the sandwich is a surprise that I’ll leave to you to experience. Then there’s the picnic basket for cheese course – in this case you are constructing while laughing at how fun and elaborate the thought process for the chefs must be.

Duck with Lavender

Duck with Lavender

There is the joy of seeing the whole roasted duck with lavender stuffing. Which then is hastily, but very effectively, served to you with gorgeous accompanying rhubarb compote, and lavender jus. Remarkable. The best “main” or more correctly “finishing savoury” dish I’ve had at one of these multi course degustations.

Duck - Broth with Cured Duck and Watercress, Roasted with Rhubarb, Shallots, and Scallions

Duck – Broth with Cured Duck and Watercress, Roasted with Rhubarb, Shallots, and Scallions

I like the beginning that takes you to a number of flavours and influences, but not all in one mouthful. Bowls of all sorts of deliciousness to begin. From the combination of Beluga Caviar and baked potato ice cream, to the English peas.

Beluga Caviar and Baked Potato Ice Cream

Beluga Caviar and Baked Potato Ice Cream

English Peas - Warmed with Meyer Lemon and Egg Yolk

English Peas – Warmed with Meyer Lemon and Egg Yolk

Seared (my choice) or terrine, foie gras is offered. The rocket purée is not my favourite but the foie gras is perfect. There is nothing that is ordinary or used as a filler throughout the meal.

Foie Gras - Seared with Fava Bean Marmalade and Sorrel

Foie Gras – Seared with Fava Bean Marmalade and Sorrel

One of the themes of your meal (which you decide at the beginning) is used to great effect. In my case, coffee is used as a sauce for the stunning Bombe Alaska. I love how the staff talk you through the history of the dish – educational and incredible.

Almond - Baked Alaska with Rum, Caramel and Coffee

Almond – Baked Alaska with Rum, Caramel and Coffee

Another education is the Waldorf salad. Made in front of you, the waitperson explains the history of the classic you are about to eat, before lifting up your plate reveals the modern Eleven take on the classic which is obscenely well put together – linked by a perfect purée of celery.

EMP Take on Waldorf Salad

EMP Take on Waldorf Salad

The sommelier is helpful with the wines and our usual option is to have a glass with every couple of courses. What was nice is you speak about the style you like and they play with it from there. You are also asked for a budget in a completely unpretentious way – and what’s more is they stick to it!

The wine selections for me were great. I asked for unusual varieties I may have not tried that will go well with a couple of courses in a row. In particular the Austrian Nueburger with the Waldorf was fantastic. Catherine asked for some classics based around Chardonnay for white and Shiraz for red – again the wines were beautifully selected.

Asparagus - Braised with Potato and Black Truffle

Asparagus – Braised with Potato and Black Truffle

There was a lobster course, an asparagus and truffle course, chocolate covered pretzels with sea salt, and black and white cookies to begin and finish (savoury and sweet). It sounds like a lot of food (and it was) but it wasn’t in excess and we felt great throughout the meal. The timing of delivery had to have been well thought through because we didn’t once feel the need to slow it down as we often do.

Whey - Sorbet with Caramelised Milk and Milk Foam

Whey – Sorbet with Caramelised Milk and Milk Foam

Which brings me to dessert. The whey sorbet with caramelised milk and milk foam looked beautiful but not unique. Just like the rest of the meal, the great presentation was usurped by the flavour. Balance of sweetness, richness and lasting flavour. The caramel in particular a triumph. Then our waitperson presented a perfect dome of Bombe Alaska. Mouth’s watering, the dome is whisked away and brought back out in a much more reasonable portion, covered with our choice of sauce. It has ruined Bombe Alaska for me forever. Well, until the next time we are back at Eleven!

Spectacular in every sense of the word, Eleven Madison Park is a stunning example of how good restaurants can be. The lengths the staff and creators have gone to are best shown in the ease at which greatness is executed. Experience tells me that I cannot understate how special this dining experience is.

Eleven Madison Park Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato