Attachment – my Pope Joan story

Pope Joan – Black pudding, truffled polenta, fried egg & cauliflower

Four walls can be so much more. When I heard from my wife that Pope Joan is to close earlier tonight I thought “that’s sad” but it wasn’t until a few hours later that I felt compelled to write about it.

It is not wholly unusual for me, but I am emotional. The connection we sometimes build to places is incredible. Most of us know love in an object, such as our family home. I am sure there are many of us who build an emotional attachment to many more places, including our favourite cafes.

Doughnut with jam and cream

Pope Joan has been open for 8 years. When it first opened, Catherine and I used to go so often that some of my friends would roll their eyes when it was mentioned. Like any relationship we had our good times at Pope Joan, and our not as good times. The underlying quality of food, service and the intangibles such as the atmosphere, and the feeling you have when in the space, was the reason we kept going back and have for 8 years.

Pope Joan’s Kinda Full Breakfast

There are some obvious elements in a cafe, or any venue, that capture a following. For us, Pope Joan had more than the obvious. It was all of a 20 minute drive, sometimes worse in weekend traffic (even taking our backstreet methods that became a necessity!) Living in Richmond we were surrounded by great cafes within and close to our suburb, but we still ventured. To this day one of our favourite waitpersons worked at Pope Joan.

The Cuban

Matt Wilkinson has a love for what he does. I have not once spoken to him, but the passion and quality he brings is infectious amongst the entire staff. It is that intangible quiet confidence that is so difficult to replicate. Maybe it is just not being surrounded by Scandinavian everything? No, it is more than that.

Pope Joan omelette

I’ve sat around drinking coffee after coffee with friends, doing the form on the Monday before the Melbourne Cup. We have had an almost-Australia Day BBQ afternoon. We’ve been when it is pouring with rain and freezing cold; we’ve been out the back when you need sunscreen and a hat.

When it comes around, the crab omelette is brilliant. The Pope Joan (bacon and egg roll) is still one of my favourites. The rice pudding is a dish that I will still speak about when I have great-grandchildren.

I would like to say to Matt and his staff a huge thank you. At the same time I would like to remind other restaurateurs and hospitality staff that places only get this type of love when there is real passion and feeling. That wonderful purpose of being hospitable, and having an aspiration to be inspirational is the reason for success. Good luck in the future. We’ll miss this patch of Nicholson Road, Brunswick East.

Previous reviews:

Breakfast 2015
Lunch
Breakfast 2014

Three Bags Full – Abbotsford – Sunday 29 July 2017 – Breakfast

Three Bags Benedict – Poached eggs on a truffled rosti with green hollandaise, apple cider ham hock and herbs

When I reflect on some of the cafes that have opened early on during my time in Melbourne, and realise they’ll be breaking ten years soon, it is a little scary. I associate Three Bags Full with the same vintage as Proud Mary. While I have kept on going back to Three Bags Full, it remains what I would say is an underrated cafe in comparison.

This is not to say the owners are struggling with this business. Many years ago it expanded to the premises immediately next door, and it has continued to be full ever since. Besides that, I haven’t notice a huge amount of change. With a great menu, a fashionable vibe, excellent coffee, and knowing staff, why should it?

Today the same ingredients that made TBF successful over many years are still going strong. My Benedict with ham hock and green hollandaise over perfectly poached eggs is terrific. This dish is now quite a modern Melbourne breakfast classic, and this particular one is nicely done.

Sweet potato and carrot fritters – two poached eggs, whipped goats curd, shaved pickled fennel and pomegranate salad, almond dukkah and herb oil

Catherine’s sweet potato and carrot fritters with goats curd, and a fennel and pomegranate salad, are great too. The almond dukkah is not overpowering but adds distinct flavour. The fritters were expertly cooked to the right consistency, and the freshness of the salad added the right amount of zing.

TBF is always busy, so as much as we’d prefer the main room of the cafe, we always accept the likelihood we will be in the second room. It is still nicely fitted out, and there is something satisfying about being in a pre-Scandinavian movement cafe, complete with warehouse surrounds in Abbotsford.

The only reason we are not here more often is the depth of new, and closer, cafes in our area. But there’s little doubt we will keep coming back from time to time to enjoy the familiarly great offerings here.

Three Bags Full Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato