Cafe

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Crabapple Kitchen – Hawthorn – Friday 29 August 2014 – Lunch

Crabapple Sliders

Crabapple Sliders

Hawthorn has a rich selection cafes, many of which are Melbourne’s best. This includes Porgie + Mrs Jones, Axil Roasters, Liar Liar, and several others I’ve tried, which all have their own distinctive personality. Yet I find the dynamic between Hawthorn, and its close neighbour Richmond (where I live and work), to be very different.

It could just be me. I’ve been a repeat visitor to many of these cafes but have never become a regular. It could be the fact that my compass leads me towards the city rather than further East, even though I’m happy to travel a long way for a good breakfast. Either way I am often more comfortable in Richmond.

Crabapple Kitchen may be in a similar vein, though there is a dish on this menu that I can’t get out of my mind. The “Crabapple Slider” featuring spanner crab in brioche along with Granny Smith apple, breakfast radish, and mustard cress, is a wonderful dish. The delicate crab works in complete harmony with the buttery richness of the brioche. The julienned Granny Smith apple, mustard cress, and breakfast radish, are excellent accompaniments, with mayonnaise bringing it all together.

The cafe itself, on a busy part of Glenferrie Road near the train station, is playful and charming. The floorstaff wear bluetooth ear pieces which I’m not sure about, as it is a little disconcerting when you realise they are being spoken at, while also speaking to you. Other than when they are interrupted mid-sentence they are polite and friendly.

The great thing about this cafe is the outdoors area out the back. There is plenty of seating and the heaters are on, but it would be even better if it was a warm sunny day. Although a little chilly today, everyone is in good spirits as you would expect at Friday lunch.

Crabapple Kitchen is a fantastic venue with really interesting breakfast and lunch dishes not to mention a great drinks list that is particularly important for Friday lunch!

Crabapple Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Duck balls

Duck balls

Post script

Not having been able to get the Crabapple sliders out of my head, we were back for another lunch. This time I settled on just one and shared the spiced duck meatballs too.

The balls came on a bed of smashed butterbean, plenty of mashed avocado and some goat’s feta. The balls themselves were delicious, though naturally losing some of their gaminess by being minced and spiced. The chilli topping the balls was just the right heat and the other accompaniments worked well. Julie asked for some sourdough to help mop up the butterbean concoction and it was a stroke of genius. I proceeded to make mine an open sandwich and I suggest others do the same!

There was a good amount of energy in the cafe again and it was full for Friday. The wine list is quite diverse and we all chose different glasses. To finish we all shared the brownie. There are several additions to the dish to make it a modern gourmet dessert, but the star is the brownie which is rich and gooey. It definitely would be a tough ask for one person.

Another good experience and my need for crab and apple in a slider is a little duller (but surely will come back again quite soon).

Crabapple Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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Friends of Mine and the separation of powers

Ham, cheese and tomato croissant

Ham, cheese and tomato croissant

This isn’t really a review of Friends of Mine which has been a strong cafe for years now and is one of my favourites. It does relate to a midweek morning breakfast at Friends of Mine on the way to work though.

The restaurant business is no different to so many others, especially those that are service oriented. There are rules of engagement; a list of commandments if you will. The separation of powers between the floor and the kitchen is what maintains quality at some of the best places I’ve worked at. While the floor can’t live without the kitchen, it by no means unimportant. Service often is the largest ingredient that divides a great experience from an okay one. But there is more to service than delivering food to tables and the best floor staff question the chefs if there is an issue.

That’s where the quality control comes in. In the best restaurants there are more than two points at which mistakes can be identified and rectified. At many cafes there is only one point before the customer receives their meal. Which is why my main question to the cashier at Friends was “when you order a croissant in the cafe is it done here or in the kitchen?” to which she replied “it’s only done here if it is a takeaway”.

This leads me to question why the kitchen thought it was appropriate to deliver a really burnt ham, cheese and tomato croissant; and the waitperson didn’t tell the kitchen it doesn’t look good enough to deliver to the customer? That is two separate functions that believe a mistake is fine to provide to a paying customer. The reason I was disappointed is that every single other time I’ve had a croissant here it has been excellent with the best ingredients used in a quality pastry. It is perfect for a quick breakfast on the way to work because it doesn’t take long and is delicious. I can confidently order as I sit down without looking at the menu along with a coffee and be out in twenty minutes having browsed through the paper.

This experience won’t stop me going back, but it brings to question the entire approach the cafe might be starting to take. The fact they delivered a ham and cheese croissant with jam and butter goes to show that they were not on their game.

Friends of Mine on Urbanspoon